Gen 2 hood hinge, hood hitting grill at front corners before opening

[Svtfreak]

When I have the gap set pretty close, I start to open the hood and it moves up and forward at the same time. The front lower corners hit the grill then. If I just made the gap more, the gap would be 3/8-1/2”. Not acceptable! What am I missing here? I feel like it should go up more before going forward.

[michael everson]

Hmm Just finished setting up one and didn't have that issue. my gap is probably 3/16.

can you post some pics of how it is set up?
Mike

[FF33rod]

Mine was rubbing initially as you describe. I had to sand the inside to give more clearance as it moved. Additionally I had to add filler on the outside of the corners in order to be flush with the edge of the grill when the hood was closed. Doing that plus gapping properly to slightly more than 3/16 in that area stopped it from happening. I'm still a little concerned that when primer and paint is added I may be back to a bit of a problem - one of those things I need to chat with the paint shop when I take it in February

Another fix can be to move the whole hood forward so the opening at the grill is wider.

Steve

[Svtfreak]

Here is a video of what it’s doing. Yes the gap is tight. But the other side which is gapped right is hitting also before it gets up enough.

https://i.imgur.com/b0aJq3J.mp4

[Svtfreak]

Do you think unbolting it from the hood, moving the whole hinge assembly as high as I can at its mount at the radiator, then remounting to hood will do it? If I’m moving it so that it further down in relation to the hinge points, maybe it’ll move up farther before trying to tilt forward?

[33fromSD]

Two things:

1) Is this a Gen 1 chassis with Gen 2 hood hinges? Or is everything Gen 2. I ask because my Gen 2 grill mount bracket doesn't have the FFR logo laser etched in it like yours and it looks slight different than yours so I'm wondering if grill positioning is slightly different causing some of this if it is a Gen1 chassis?

2) With the brass bushings I've been noticing they almost need to be snug to the point of having fairly decent resistance on initial movement and then they settle in and things are smoother (found this on the trunk and last weekend on the doors). If I tightened them initially so they moved freely once I installed the panel I had a lot of play. if I tightened them up where there was slight resistance, movement of the panel was solid with no play. On the Gen2 hood hinge bracket there is ton of these brass bushings, is it possible your getting multiplied slop in the numerous bushings? Have you tried tightened them all slightly?

Just guessing on all these, I'm actually to the point of installing my hood hopefully this weekend so I'm paying attention to this string.

[33fromSD]

Also, on the hood, the lower edge that is hitting, what if you removed material on the back of the panel...meaning kept the outside edge where it is but on the back side shave it at an angle another 1/32 to 1/16"?

Almost like the back relief needed on the belt line on the rear part of the door.

[Svtfreak]

Great points. Yes it is a gen 1 chassis with gen 2 hinges. I know of one other person who did it and they did not have this problem. I could probably change the grill angle, make it more straight up and down but I want the angle.

It is hitting dead square on. Thinning it wouldnt get near about enough. I’d have to thin it to gone lol.

All my shoulder bolts are tight. I guess they are ever so slightly longer than the thickness of the bushings. I will try your idea though. Maybe a washer will let me tweak that. Won’t mess with it till tomorrow afternoon maybe though. I’m going to try that and my idea of getting the bracket on radiator up higher so the hinge is lower in movement position. Hopefully this will make it go up more before forward enough. If I could get that, thinning the material just might work.

[FF33rod]

As a guess, maybe Gen 2 hinges have more forward motion initially than the gen 1.

Steve

[Tampa33Build]

I will be at the rodshop tomorrow, last week i reassembled the Gen2 hinges on my Gen1 with no issue. Just need to ensure you do not raise the hood too far or the hinge hits the grill top. Most likely will need some rubber molding on the hinge to protect the grill.
I will take some pictures and post.

You mention a video of the issue, there is no video.

Neil

[FF33rod]

I didn't see the video either until I did a "reply with quote" and then it showed up in the quote part, very weird.

Neil, regarding the hing hitting the top of the grill, do you have the struts on yet? I thought the same thing but when I attached the struts they have limited travel and it solved the hitting...

Steve

[Svtfreak]

I will be at the rodshop tomorrow, last week i reassembled the Gen2 hinges on my Gen1 with no issue. Just need to ensure you do not raise the hood too far or the hinge hits the grill top. Most likely will need some rubber molding on the hinge to protect the grill.
I will take some pictures and post.

You mention a video of the issue, there is no video.

Neil

Yessir I see that problem also. That will be easily fixed with a travel stop. I thought about a bolt in the hinge arm, much like the one used to stop the doors at the end of their opening travel.

Try this link for video

https://i.imgur.com/b0aJq3J.mp4


I didn't see the video either until I did a "reply with quote" and then it showed up in the quote part, very weird.

Neil, regarding the hing hitting the top of the grill, do you have the struts on yet? I thought the same thing but when I attached the struts they have limited travel and it solved the hitting...

Steve

The gen 2 style hinges don’t use any struts at all.

[Svtfreak]

For future reference:

I moved the hinge mounts on the radiator end all the way to the top of their adjustment range. This gave me just enough clearance to get it to not hit. It’s close, but I need to open the gap a touch and thin the back side and it’ll clear just fine.

[Tampa33Build]

When I went to the RodShop they had the hood off. We put it back on yesterday to add the front two hood latches. I cannot have a middle latch due to the hood scoop opening. no issue with opening or closing, the front f the hood is rounded so it is just below the grill. No issue with clearance. Photo and video attached.

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https://1drv.ms/v/s!AupwcIqWMpKrgcJEAl8ZmCLkHkpBtA?e=3fZxae

[Svtfreak]

When I went to the RodShop they had the hood off. We put it back on yesterday to add the front two hood latches. I cannot have a middle latch due to the hood scoop opening. no issue with opening or closing, the front f the hood is rounded so it is just below the grill. No issue with clearance. Photo and video attached.

140050


https://1drv.ms/v/s!AupwcIqWMpKrgcJEAl8ZmCLkHkpBtA?e=3fZxae

Thank you very much for that video. Yours is moving exactly like mine is and I see how they remedied that. Pretty much the same way I’m working towards. Just gotta get the back in place and latch on (having to build that also due to my changes) and then get the gaps set just right. I’ll be real close to yours. Makes me feel like I might actually have a clue lol.

[wrp]

Could someone post a picture of the Gen 2 hinges? I’d like to see them played out and installed

[Tampa33Build]

Gen2 hinges installed on Gen 1
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[wrp]

Thank you sir. Tech info I had was that the Gen 2 Hinges would not work with a Gen 1 Hood. Is that a Gen II Hood in the pictures?

[Tampa33Build]

No it is a Gen1 hood. I added a hood scoop.
Had the Gen1 hinges and pins originally, however was concerned about the hood sliding forward and scratching the paint where it rested on the cowl. Was pretty straight forward making the change other than figuring out what to do with the hood pin holes. Last weekend I modified the holes with LED lights to light up engine bay. Other issue I'm working on is the Gen2 hood latch is in the center, my center is not strong enough to support a latch due to the hood scoop without additional modifications. This weekend I added a latch on each side connected together with a stainless steel rod. Hopefully I will finish it next weekend.
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[wrp]

Thanks

[Svtfreak]

I used my gen 1 hood also but had to add some spacers behind tge bracket where it bolts to the hood on each side. The pads where not flat. It could be relayed to my hood being a bit weird shaped. I also cut and did a hood bump and have had to come up with ways to get it back to the right shape. I put my latch bolt in my metal cross brace I made to pull the sides in on the back.

I like the light idea. I was going to have the holes filled before paint but I kinda like your idea.

[Tampa33Build]

Svtfreak,

LEDs I used to fill hood pin holes
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CWPK4JH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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[Svtfreak]

Svtfreak,

LEDs I used to fill hood pin holes
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CWPK4JH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
141669 141670 141671

That’s neat. Thanks! Might work for trunk light too. Got any pics of them lit in dark? You put them on a switch or a pin switch to come on when hood open?

[Tampa33Build]

I put them on a push-button switch located under the dash.
No pictures in dark, 33 is at hoy rod shop will try to take some next weekend and post onTampa33Build