Will this heater valve placement be an issue?

[nick7405]

I don't know how low the body sits. Will the nipple of the brass heater valve hit the body?
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[BEAR-AvHistory]

Would be a no go on mine. Body sits on that tube. Mine is electric on the firewall to the drivers side of the heater

[Norm B]

I think you will have multiple interference issues. The 2 cable clamps you have holding the heater valve cable may interfere with the body and the pin may contact the body when you pull the heater on. Here is a picture I took during the build. You can see how the body overhangs into the engine bay beyond the 3/4 inch frame.

HTH

Norm

[nick7405]

Thanks, guess I gotta get the drill out and rethink my routing. Maybe just get a flat bar and drop the mounts two inches.

I think you will have multiple interference issues. The 2 cable clamps you have holding the heater valve cable may interfere with the body and the pin may contact the body when you pull the heater on. Here is a picture I took during the build. You can see how the body overhangs into the engine bay beyond the 3/4 inch frame.

HTH

Norm

[phileas_fogg]

If you flip the valve body upside down, and either let it "float" or move the cable supports to a spacer on the underside of the 3/4" tube you can make that location & routing work.


John

[Al_C]

I'm curious as to why you are using that particular heater valve. If you have a Gen II coyote, you need to have continuous coolant flow through your heads. Do you have a separate "circuit" of coolant only for your heater, or is this hose line also going through the heads? This particular valve - if it's the one I think it is, shuts off the flow, which would make the coyote rather unhappy.

So, if what I think is going on here is correct, my suggestion is to lose that valve entirely and get a cable operated bypass valve (vintage air has a good one) that will serve to shut off the heat and keep the flow constant through the heads at the same time.

Or, maybe you've addressed the head flow issue in another way?

[nick7405]

If you flip the valve body upside down, and either let it "float" or move the cable supports to a spacer on the underside of the 3/4" tube you can make that location & routing work.



John


Probably what I'm going to do

[nick7405]

I'm curious as to why you are using that particular heater valve. If you have a Gen II coyote, you need to have continuous coolant flow through your heads. Do you have a separate "circuit" of coolant only for your heater, or is this hose line also going through the heads? This particular valve - if it's the one I think it is, shuts off the flow, which would make the coyote rather unhappy.

So, if what I think is going on here is correct, my suggestion is to lose that valve entirely and get a cable operated bypass valve (vintage air has a good one) that will serve to shut off the heat and keep the flow constant through the heads at the same time.

Or, maybe you've addressed the head flow issue in another way?

That is the cable operated valve from vintage, I also I updated my signature thanks lol

[Al_C]

I updated my signature thanks lol

Problem solved!

[nick7405]

Rotated the valve as described and added about 1/4 inch drop to mounts and looks like I'll be in the clear. Thanks for the helps guys138918
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