richtersand's build #9909 - Engine In!! [Archive]

richtersand

11-11-2020, 12:32 PM

Hi all, I got the car this weekend so it's time to start the build thread! I'm excited to kick off the project... it's the perfect stay-at-home project during COVID.

Here's my build plan:
FFR Complete Kit, black powder coat
Coyote 5.0 Gen 3
Tremec TKX with 0.68 5th
IRS, 3.73 gear ratio
Power steering
Vintage gauges
Front mount battery
Front sway bar
Halibrand wheels, 18"
Wilwood brakes
Driver side roll-bar, chrome
Gas-N pipes + header
LED headlights, halo
Overriders (without bumpers)
Powder coat panels black
Likely color: Viking blue

I am very curious how much time it will take to build this, so I created a time tracker and will keep this updated throughout the build. Link to Time Tracker (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/15pkcHDoGAEShmHfq4P1-C-4RTAZqZX4Q4H2gAscofLE/edit?usp=sharing)

richtersand

11-11-2020, 12:37 PM

I managed to pick up a 3.73 rear diff locally. Bought it as a full assembly since I also needed the knuckles and hubs. It came off a Mustang GT and I validated the numbers with Ford that it is a legit 3.73. BUT I noticed something REALLY strange with the assembly... any guesses? You can see it in the pickup truck pic. It was pretty straight-forward to break it apart but a few of the bolts took some creativity...

Backing it in with the truck:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137437&d=1605115050

Hoisting from the ceiling:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137436&d=1605115050

I got the diff out and followed EdwardB's formula for POR15. Here's the video of the first coat of POR15 going on:

https://youtu.be/BJkR5kFxTAg

And the result:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137452&d=1605117331

richtersand

11-11-2020, 12:53 PM

I spent a decent amount of time prepping the garage. My wife joked that I was "nesting" for months, preparing for my new baby to come. Too funny :D :rolleyes: You can see how bare it was in the previous pics with the differential. Here's what it looks like now:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137450&d=1605117136

Next, I needed to focus on the body buck and dolly. My back has been bothering me lately, probably as a result of picking up and throwing around my two little kids. So I spent a lot of time thinking about how to get the chassis as high as possible to work on it (note this thread (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?37062-Tall-Rolling-Dolly&highlight=sawhorse)). I have a small garage so I also need it on wheels so I can move it around. The solution I settled on was to put sawhorses on wheels, inspiration from AC Bill. About a month out from receiving the kit I randomly decided to post here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?37355-Body-buck-in-SoCal&highlight=body+buck+socal) asking if anyone has a body buck and/or dolly in SoCal. Not only did Bob (bobm488) come to my rescue, but his dolly was actually elevated much higher than the typical design! Bingo, I'm in business! Thanks Bob!

Here I am picking up the goods from Bob's house. Notice the nice ride!!!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137446&d=1605115598

Here's the elevated dolly built at my place. Wait until you hear about the adventure I had with this thing...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137448&d=1605116855

bobm488

11-11-2020, 04:26 PM

I'm glad the dolly went to a good home. Looks like you are well on your way.
Welcome to

Straversi

11-11-2020, 04:50 PM

Welcome aboard. Sounds like a solid build plan. I'll be following along curious to see what the time tracker says. I worked on mine pretty steadily for a couple years but have no idea how many hours I put in. Thanks for sharing your build.
-Steve

JB in NOVA

11-11-2020, 09:54 PM

Welcome to the madness! Looks like you are well on your way. I'm 7 months in, and it's been a blast (with a lot of "learning experiences" along the way). Good luck!

edwardb

11-12-2020, 06:54 AM

Congrats on your kit delivery! Will be interested to follow along. I've never had the nerve to keep track of build time. Pretty sure it's more hours than I might guess. But being retired has its benefits. Two quick comments. Nice that you scored that 3.73 IRS setup. I'm assuming it has the Torsen limited slip. I have that in my Gen 3 Coupe and like it. Feels more planted to me. I do hear it clacking around a bit (a common observation from the Mustang crowd as well) but it's no big deal and probably less noticeable in a Roadster since it's not open to the back like the Coupe. I do think you may find that ratio a little short with a TKO though. Mine is with a T-56 which has different ratios than the TKO. But by all means drive it and a gear swap isn't the end of the world if it comes to that. Also, minor point, the number you're listing on your build thread is maybe your sales order number? Most builders commonly list their chassis serial number. It's on your MSO but maybe you don't have it yet. Also stamped on your chassis on the 2x2 tube just under the steering column. The last four numbers (or now five?) are your chassis number. Good luck with your build.

cv2065

11-12-2020, 07:37 AM

I kept telling myself that I was going to do a time lapse on my build and got too busy to make it happen.;) Glad you are following through as it will be an awesome addition to your build storybook once completed. Welcome and good luck on your build!

richtersand

11-13-2020, 11:36 AM

It was quite an adventure getting the car to its new home. I live in a gated community with a small gate and narrow streets. Mark, the Stewart driver, said there's no way to get it in. My original plan was to rent a uhaul auto trailer, meet him at a big parking lot, and take delivery there. Then I realized that the wheel width of the dolly I just put together was too narrow for the auto transport. It would have been sitting on the wood and I would not have been able to get it off the trailer. I called an audible with Mark and asked him to drop it off right outside the community. It's about 1/4 mile to my house on mostly flat roads and the caster wheels are tough enough. Mark arrived at 7am (!) and my buddy wasn't going to help for a couple of hours. Mark and his driving partner were awesome and volunteered to help me push it to the house. I also had the pickup to help tow it up one small hill. All was going swimmingly until I passed over the gate. I should have been paying a lot more attention and slowed down big time over the gate railing. The rail caught one of the wheels sideways and tore it off of the dolly. The good news was the wood was the only thing that hit and the chassis was far enough off of the ground to not touch. The bad news was we were stuck in the gate area... and the gate kept trying to close on the car!!! That was stressful. But then Mark realized if he pushed down on the back right of the car it would lift the missing front wheel so the other three wheels would support the weight. Well, it worked to clear the gate so we kept going up the road. At this point a friendly neighbor saw what we were doing. He said, "I've been looking at Factory Five!!" He brought his young son out to see. He also saw we needed help so he jumped in to help keep the missing wheel off the ground. It was pretty straight-forward from there, with only the speed bumps making it a little dicey. Here's a pic of the missing wheel before I swapped it out. The metal on the torn caster wheel was bent pretty significantly so it must have really gotten jammed in there...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137440&d=1605115220

Out with the old, in with the new. Here's a pic of what was in the garage before I made room for the Roadster. My uncle gave me this 68 vette 20 years ago and I've managed to keep in on the road. I have pictures of myself in this car when I am a few years old, and now I'm taking pics of my kids in it. I've been wanting to do a body off restoration, but the Roadster project with all new components sounded like a lot more fun :)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137443&d=1605115343

Here's the car in its new home!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137569&d=1605284614

richtersand

11-13-2020, 02:31 PM

My buddy Craig and I got right to work taking the body off. My wife is helping pull the sides, and his wife has the 1 year old sleeping on her :D

https://youtu.be/nh_H69qEcgw

Stored it in the back yard for now:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137573&d=1605286170

richtersand

11-13-2020, 02:37 PM

Removed the aluminum:

https://youtu.be/BIT_9tZL2yM

richtersand

11-13-2020, 02:41 PM

After a spirited discussion on drilling pre/post powder coat (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?37814-Drilling-over-powder-coat), I decided to fit and drill before the powder coat. So I refitted the passenger side footbox and cleco'd the crap out of it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137579&d=1605296431

https://youtu.be/OOHb2VkukbA

bobm488

11-13-2020, 09:07 PM

Don't forget about sleeping, you are moving very fast.

Nigel Allen

11-13-2020, 10:22 PM

I get the impression that the video clip isn't actually sped up at all.

richtersand

11-15-2020, 03:42 AM

A couple more videos for you today. First I completed the driver side sheet metal work:

https://youtu.be/TmsOE6TnVc8

richtersand

11-15-2020, 03:45 AM

Next I refitted the rest of the sheet metal and almost finished the PS seat sheet metal. Since I decided to do all the drilling and fitting for the sheet metal now (for powder coat) instead of throughout the build, I had to put the sheet metal back on. In retrospect it would have made more sense to just leave it on and pull it only if I need to drill the backside.

Second video of the day (I can only post one video per post).

Are these videos even interesting, or should I just post pics?

https://youtu.be/KKVvpwtF5fs

You will see towards the end of this video that my battery-powered drill dies and I have to use a wired one. It's actually something my grandpa gave me years ago and I never used before. It has to be 40+ years old at this point. It's a Craftsman. Interestingly, it only drills forward and there's no reverse on it. It is a KILLER drill. With it, I was drilling 2-3 times faster than with the battery powered one. Watch the end of the video how fast I go through the side frame mounts for the PS seat. I was blown away with out good it was. Who would have thought?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137723&d=1605430145

speedfreak1211

11-15-2020, 04:25 AM

Videos very interesting

Fman

11-15-2020, 02:55 PM

Good luck on your build, looks like a solid build plan. I am about seven months in and just had my first start up. You are in for a great experience, looking forward to watching your progress! Garage looks organized and nice too!

richtersand

11-16-2020, 11:25 AM

Got a lot of time in this weekend on the sheet metal work. I completed the rear quarter panels as much as I can. I am going to install the drop trunk and I should have ordered this as soon as I decided to go this direction since I'm going to have to wait for it now. I guess I'm also waiting for the missing panels from FFR anyway so not a huge deal. Here's a time lapse covering most of the quarter panel work:

https://youtu.be/UqY0xLwpkIg

I am guessing the vibration on the shipping caused the inside side trunk panels to chafe, which gave me a good opportunity to use my deburring tool. It took a few attempts to get the right rhythm/stroke.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137766&d=1605542855

The rear cockpit and rear cockpit side panels did not align very well. They were close enough I did not feel the need to reshape them but still needed a tight hold. So I got to use my side clamp clecos here:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137764&d=1605542603

Finally, check out this pic. The holes in the rear trunk chassis randomly perfectly lined up and I realized this when the drill bit blasted through the frame drilling the back side. Talk about a surprise. Good reminder that you can't be too careful with these things.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137767&d=1605543424

BadAsp427

11-17-2020, 05:15 PM

Hoooper

11-17-2020, 05:29 PM

I would second the inventory concern. I spent about 3 hours doing inventory on a base kit with enough deletions that the boxes amounted to little more than just front and rear suspension, minimal electrical nonsense, and aluminum panels.

richtersand

11-18-2020, 02:18 PM

you are moving along really well. I was looking at your time tracker, interesting... I took right at 300 hours to build mine in 3.5 months. I worked 4 hours every weekday and 12 hours on Saturdays. Typically took off on Sundays to clean shop and watch a race or something. I'm wondering, I see you put in a 4 for the time you spent on inventory. I sure hope that you did a really thorough inventory, but I would say that 4 hours is not a lot for that. Seriously, you will find many other items during a part by part inventory that you can get resolved with FFR now rather than when you get to that point of needing the part and discovering you don't have it. Like your side panels as an example.

Have fun and take my inventory comments as just an observation and press on...

WOW! 3.5 months is incredible. You are a machine!

Good observation on inventory and I can see how it could have taken a lot longer. I had my buddy with me who is really knowledgeable on car parts so I was calling out parts and he was able to quickly identify them (and get me up to speed). We probably could have gone a little slower, but I think we did a decent enough job.

I saw a lot of people have had issues with missing inventory, but we actually didn't find much missing. Even the metal panel I thought was missing was tucked away in a box that I later found. So I've been pleasantly surprised with this.

richtersand

11-18-2020, 04:55 PM

Sheet metal work is progressing nicely. I have completed both footboxes, seats, and rear quarter panels. It's amazing how big the mess is, and how hard it is to see on my epoxy floor. My wife was happy to hear that the shavings are only going to be this bad for the next week or two. I'm getting the drop trunk from Russ so I'll finish the trunk and rear cockpit by tomorrow and be done with sheet metal!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137927&d=1605736256

For the seats, I was having trouble tracing the outlines for accurate drilling so instead I used dental floss to help get the line right.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137926&d=1605736217

Here's the time lapse from last night:

https://youtu.be/rP1Rf1_0RVo

richtersand

11-20-2020, 07:14 PM

Hey all, slowly but surely making my way through the sheet metal work. Up to 27.5 hours working on it! (link to time tracker (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/15pkcHDoGAEShmHfq4P1-C-4RTAZqZX4Q4H2gAscofLE/edit?usp=sharing)) Front half of the car is going to powder coat on Monday. Holding off on a few major pieces for now, such as the transmission tunnel cover, splash guards, radiator housing, and a bunch of the smaller pieces. Here's a quick video showing the metal on the car and progress:

https://youtu.be/9SHGIWoyb64

I had to trip the PS seat as its final resting position was slightly elevated.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138031&d=1605916957

Also, I've seen some comments in the past that people got the wrong front panel for the Coyote setup. This is my panel... can someone confirm this is the right panel for a Coyote? Sorry, I've had trouble positively identifying it...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138030&d=1605916830

JB in NOVA

11-20-2020, 10:36 PM

Love the time-lapse videos. Very cool! If I did that, you would probably just see me repeating the same steps 2 or 3 times, staring at it for an hour, then repeating a 4th time. Nice work. Keep the videos coming!

edwardb

11-20-2020, 11:35 PM

Also, I've seen some comments in the past that people got the wrong front panel for the Coyote setup. This is my panel... can someone confirm this is the right panel for a Coyote? Sorry, I've had trouble positively identifying it...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138030&d=1605916830

Coyote doesn't make a difference for the DS footbox front. Or any other of the panels for that matter. All are the same as of several years ago. What does make a difference is if you're using a Wilwood pedal box or a donor pedal box. That picture is for the donor pedal box. Note two holes near the center for the steering column and master cylinder. Also the clutch cable exit is at the top right. If using the Wilwood pedal box, you want the piece with one hole for the steering column (master cylinders are inside the footbox) and the clutch cable on the left.

Fman

11-21-2020, 12:22 PM

This is the panel for Wilwood pedal box, I made the same mistake when I put mine together. One recommendation if you are powder coating your panels, take everything you can with you and have it done at one time. You will get the best price with one large batch, the extra panels will also come in handy to have a few extra coated in case you ever need to fabricate something down the road.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129979&d=1592189359

richtersand

11-23-2020, 01:30 PM

Coyote doesn't make a difference for the DS footbox front. Or any other of the panels for that matter. All are the same as of several years ago. What does make a difference is if you're using a Wilwood pedal box or a donor pedal box. That picture is for the donor pedal box. Note two holes near the center for the steering column and master cylinder. Also the clutch cable exit is at the top right. If using the Wilwood pedal box, you want the piece with one hole for the steering column (master cylinders are inside the footbox) and the clutch cable on the left.

This is the panel for Wilwood pedal box, I made the same mistake when I put mine together. One recommendation if you are powder coating your panels, take everything you can with you and have it done at one time. You will get the best price with one large batch, the extra panels will also come in handy to have a few extra coated in case you ever need to fabricate something down the road.

Really helpful, thanks guys. I just added the 1.5 hours it took to rework the front panel (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/15pkcHDoGAEShmHfq4P1-C-4RTAZqZX4Q4H2gAscofLE/edit#gid=0) to the time tracker :D :rolleyes:

https://youtu.be/OjZZ6E7Vg-w

richtersand

11-25-2020, 03:06 AM

Got a few hours in on the build tonight. I started work on the front suspension. Waiting for the front suspension lower control arms to come in, so I'm pretty limited with what I can do. Got the ball joints in on the upper control arms. EdwardB is not kidding when he says these things are tight. The first one was about 2/3 inserted so I felt confident enough to get the blue loctite on it and crank it in on the vice per the manual's recommendation. The second one, unfortunately, was not nearly as compliant. It CRANKED on it. At one point, I pulled out the caliper because it looked like I was cross threading it and that was the only reason that made sense why it was so hard. I assumed this would be the same as the first so I was already fully committed with blue loctitte and just went for it. In the end, you want these things to stay put anyway so I didn't think it would hurt anything to crank on it. The time lapse doesn't do the struggle justice, but you can see a wardrobe change in the middle when things started heating up :D

https://youtu.be/lsGl0o5P3no

Random question on the bolts for the front suspension. You can see the threads are course on the LCA bolts and fine on the UCA. I had assumed that the color of the bolts and nuts would match. No dice. The gold bolts (if I'm totally off on the colors here you should know I'm color blind ;) ) go with the silver nuts and vice versa. WTF??? Am I missing something here? Seems too strange to be intentional.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138303&d=1606290619

Towards the end of the video you can see I cut the ears off of the knuckles. It took A LOT longer than expected! You can see in the video I burn through THREE batteries with my Ryobi sawzall. I had 25% left on the second knuckle so I had to go with the hack saw. I was very curious to see the quality difference in the sawzall vs. the hacksaw. They both look pretty ugly, especially compared to the pros on this forum like EdwardB, but you can see the sawzall had a slight lead in aesthetics. (bottom 25% hack saw vs. top 75% sawzall) First time really using a sawzall, and I have to say it was a lot of fun!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138301&d=1606290281

Check out the steel dust at the end of the job. I desperately need to buy a shop vac. Only reason I've been holding off is limited room in the garage! I've been using the handheld dustbuster in the meantime... a joke for this kind of mess.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138302&d=1606290582

egchewy79

11-25-2020, 07:16 AM

just make sure the upper BJ is fully seated into the control arm. I tried forcing it in using a vise, but only got it threaded 3/4 of the way. there's an anticorrosion coating on the threads of the BJ that you'll need to remove using a wire wheel. once this is off, the BJ threads in very easily. I needed to use a torch and an impact wrench w/ a BJ socket to get it back off since I cranked on it so hard trying to get it installed, plus the loctite.

richtersand

11-25-2020, 02:55 PM

jiriza84641

11-26-2020, 01:16 PM

looking good!!

egchewy79

11-26-2020, 03:16 PM

Thanks, sounds like it was a little tougher for you. I was definitely cranking on the second one but managed to get them both fully seated. :cool:

nice, i almost ripped my bench vise off my bench trying to unthread the BJs.
use a paint pen and paint a stripe between the BJ and the UCA as the BJs have been know to unthread over time. others have placed a tack weld to secure it, but I don't have a welder.

Daddy O

11-27-2020, 03:12 PM

Thanks for starting the build thread! I am local to you, sent a PM regarding your powder coater.

richtersand

11-27-2020, 09:08 PM

nice, i almost ripped my bench vise off my bench trying to unthread the BJs.
use a paint pen and paint a stripe between the BJ and the UCA as the BJs have been know to unthread over time. others have placed a tack weld to secure it, but I don't have a welder.

Will do!

richtersand

11-28-2020, 02:02 AM

Got the F panels back from powder coat. It's going to be a little pricey (I'm assuming about $1K for everything) but it's worth it to me. 2% the cost of the car to have most of the metal matching). I noticed the gloss on the F panels was a little higher than the black satin PC chassis. So I trekked back to the PC shop to go to a lower gloss. It's #2 black at that shop. Not sure if that's helpful to anyone else if they need to match to the chassis. I also noticed that a surprising amount of detail showed up on the F panel holes. So I took my deburring tool and went over all 47 panels that I dropped off (well, 45 I guess now that I picked up the F panels) to clean up the holes.

Overall, after drilling 500+ holes in sheet metal and the chassis, I am happy (so far) with the way things turned out. I will say that I am uncharacteristically picky with spacing and alignment of the holes. And there were a few unexpected misalignments that happened as I went along. I perfectly aligned one panel only to realize that the other panel will be visible and, of course, the holes never align as well on the receiving panel. My original plan was to use raw aluminum rivets. But realizing how picky I am about spacing/alignment, I called an audible and moved to black rivets that will blend in with the black panels. This way if there are any spacing/alignment issues it will be that much harder for me to see :D I ordered the multigrip Ultimate rivets from Summit at EdwardB's suggestion on previous threads (SUM-ABS4246URR-2, SUM-ABS6266URR-2). The multigrip appear to be more robust than standard rivets and, by definition, accept a wider range of thickness so it simplifies the task of making great connections.

Continuing work on the rear wheels/suspension for the last couple of days. Drilled out the holes in the differential and the knuckles to 5/8. The knuckles took a lot longer but the differential was pretty quick. I thought the sawzall created a lot of dust, check this one out! I dumped the dust in my trash and most of it went to the back lid and dumped on the ground anyway. I can't win :rolleyes:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138457&d=1606546332

Pulled the hubs off of the used rear suspension setup I got from the salvage yard. Unfortunately, the hubs are not in great shape. Spent over an hour cleaning them up today, prepping for POR15. Anyone see any issues with putting POR15 on the middle portions of the hub? I realize I need to be careful near the rotating features and with the flatness on the mating faces, but other than that I imagine POR15 will go a long way in terms of rust reduction and aesthetics.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138456&d=1606546304

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138455&d=1606546280

richtersand

11-28-2020, 02:18 AM

I ran into an issue with the upper control arm in the rear. They both were tight but one of the large screws that threads into the arm (the one with the female inlet for the thread rod end) completely seized about 1/3 in. I was planning to tough it out but after one too many grunts thought better of it. I planned to back it out and wire brush the threads to clean them up. I noticed some "mess" from the PC process on the other one so assumed it was more of the same. Well, this was one tough SOB. I thought of egchewy79 when he said he almost tore out his vice. I was complete stuck and with a combination of penetrating lube and a lever arm I was able to break it free.

"Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world." Archimedes

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138453&d=1606546099

This is what the threads looked like after I *finally* got it off:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138451&d=1606545837

Uh oh--something is wrong. Check the internal threads on the upper control arm and it looks like a glob of powder coat is not going anywhere. I'm going to email FFR about this, but I am curious if anyone has had any issues like this? It's an obvious QC issue, so I am hoping they will be able to fix/replace it. But curious what your experiences have been with things of this nature...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138452&d=1606545871

edwardb

11-28-2020, 08:10 AM

There's no way powder coat (if that's what it is) is going to bugger up threads like that. It's much softer than the metal and would quickly be knocked out when threading together with those size threads. First rule during assembly -- if something doesn't go together with only "mild" force, stop and figure out what's wrong. Either the wrong parts, mismatched threads, cross-threaded, defective or who knows. But no way any parts of the suspension should require the kind of force you're describing. The specific assembly you're working on right now provides for the alignment of the rear suspension. So with the jam nuts loosened, the pieces should rotate freely to allow for adjustment. The minute it started hanging up, you should have stopped. I would say the same thing for any other nut/bolt combination. You may be able to clean up those threads with a file enough that it will go together. But you have to figure out what caused the problem in the first place. May/may not be fixable.

Having said all that, I know/understand what you've described with the supplied ball joints. Many have struggled in a similar way although a wire brush to the ball joint threads seems to work for many. I personally would never install them with that much force. Keep in mind they're potential wear items, and at some point may need to be serviced. They won't get looser with time. You're going at this build with great enthusiasm and I applaud that. But I'd recommend slowing down and stepping back a bit when things aren't acting quite right. Finesse over force. Figure out what's wrong.

richtersand

11-28-2020, 03:42 PM

kmseddon

11-28-2020, 04:34 PM

richtersand

11-29-2020, 12:07 AM

Hi Rich - I greatly appreciate the detail you are putting into your thread and the video. Our chases just arrived and we will be following you closely! I notice you show cutting aluminum and it sounds like you were making modifications to the foot boxes. Could you provide a little more detail about what modifications you are making and why? What were you cutting? What color powder costing are you going with? Best of luck!

Hey kmseddon, happy to help! I actually did not make any mods to the footbox. The cuts I made were to the sidewalls of the seat sheet metal. I cut down the edge that sits against the top of the transmission tunnel so it's flush with the frame. There was a little excess that would have pushed up the transmission tunnel cover. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.

Cheers,
Matt

richtersand

11-29-2020, 11:30 PM

A lot of progress today. My buddy Craig came over and helped installing the rear differential and most of the front suspension. We actually started with the rear wheel hubs, which is somewhat of a story in and of itself. I tried to follow the instructions in the manual to put a washer and lug nut on the wheel stud to pull it through. I gave it the old college try and, believe it or not, broke the neck of the impact wrench 3/8 drive adapter. Again, very glad to be erring on the side of safety and wearing eye protection. After this happened, I had EdwardB in my thoughts to slow down and evaluate... thanks again for the great advice Paul. A press is the "right" way to get the studs in so I first researched my local harbor freight and found out that the press I would need would take up too large of a footprint in my small garage. So calling around to a few shops I found one that would be willing to do it for $50. Pep Boys, for the record, quoted $321. I said we must be talking about different things and he wasn't willing to quote it unless he saw the parts. So I took it into the $50 shop and the guy looked at it and said, "Okay, here's what you're going to do..." and told me to use the lug nut approach. Tried it, I said. Then he said hit it with a punch. Tried it, I said. Then he said, "Fine I'll do it in 5 minutes for $20." Deal, I said. Well, in the back I heard the impact going to town. Then I heard the air hammer going to town. And I started getting a little worried. He came back with the two hubs a little sweaty about 30 minutes later and confessed he had to use the press after all. The stud he hit with the air hammer was pretty ugly on the head, but it's hidden behind the hub facing inward anyway.

Surprisingly, after I got home I noticed that at least half of the studs were not fully seated and, as a result, angled slightly. Here is a picture of the hubs with the studs installed:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138560&d=1606708430

So Craig and I started the day by hitting the lug nuts with the impact again. Fortunately, with the studs 99% seated, the impact did its job and straightened them out. Here you can see the picture of the stud not fully seated:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138561&d=1606708452

richtersand

11-29-2020, 11:39 PM

Next we turned our attention to the rear differential. Some people say it goes in quickly without too much trouble, but many others report it to be the hardest part of the build. I am guessing that the mixed reviews is as a result of the variation in the dimensions of the weld. I'm sure it's a big challenge for FFR to hold such tight tolerances across such long distances. So I was glad to have Craig with me and prepared for the worst. Well, I am very happy to report that it went in basically as easy as you can expect. It took about an hour from first looking at the thing and getting it on the floor jack to loctite'd into the chassis. We were both very pleasantly surprised, and wondering if we missed something in the instructions!

Here's the pic, and I'm bummed that I forgot to turn on the time lapse for this part of the build. Would have been a cool one.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138554&d=1606708245

richtersand

11-30-2020, 12:01 AM

Finally, we installed the front suspension. Thanks to the feedback from the forum on the front panels, I learned that two rivet holes are not accessible on the F panels after the front suspension is put on. I asked the PC shop to give me the F panels ASAP, and they turned it around a couple days later. I also thought I had it well timed with the black rivets from Summit as they were supposed to arrive yesterday. But they didn't show up. No big deal, Craig and I decided to use the FFR rivets for these four and I can touch them up with black paint. So with the F panels in hand we put our first rivets into the car! Craig took the first two and I put the next two in. We liberally applied silicon to the panels and cleco'd the rest of the panel to let the silicon set.

The passenger side (PS) went in without a hitch, which you can see below. Two spacers were required in the gaps of the LCA. As you can see, most of the bolts have only been hand tightened, so please don't hesitate to let me know if anything looks off!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138558&d=1606708372

Unfortunately, the the driver side (DS) LCA install was not as smooth. The left side of the LCA was *barely* squeezing in and probably wasn't going to make it so my buddy grabbed a towel and some channel locks to pull it open a few millimeters. That side dropped in with a few love taps from the dead blow mallet. The right side had a big enough gap on both sides that we used both washers on both sides. The left gap was nicely spaced for one of the washers, but the right sight was significantly too tight. We also tried the channel locks and managed to get it in but it looked like it was stressing the mount on the chassis too much. After running through a few ideas, we decided the easiest way to make it fit would be to shave a few millimeters off of the bushing sleeve. So we popped it out and, without a wheel grinder, Craig had the great idea to use my belt sander. This would ensure the sleeve end stays as flat as possible. Here's the belt sander setup:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138553&d=1606708214

We shaved it down and with some slight finessing from the channel locks we got the the washer in. Our difficulties weren't totally over though, as it was impossible for us to get everything to align. So we strapped on my ratcheting straps and used that to pull the side of the LCA into place. Here's the strap setup:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138559&d=1606708402

Finally, we were able to get the bolt through! Everything came together pretty easily after we sorted that out. Here are a few more pictures:

Passenger side inside view:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138557&d=1606708338

Driver's side inside view:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138556&d=1606708303

Driver's side outside view:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138555&d=1606708278

And here's the time lapse from the day:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JxBh3ztYq2k

richtersand

11-30-2020, 01:40 PM

I'm not sure what it would be if it's not powder coat. It clearly hit the threads after they were cut on the piece. A file is an idea so I'll give that a shot and report back. Also emailing FFR to see what thoughts they have on it.

Following up on this. I think my buddy nailed it that it's probably splatter from the welding process. I tried to file and dislodge it but it isn't going anywhere. I'll report back what FFR says. Hopefully it's an easy/quick swap.

Hoooper

11-30-2020, 03:02 PM

richtersand

11-30-2020, 09:24 PM

My UCAs received a few months ago also had major thread issues which luckily I was able to fix. One had what looks like a very similar issue with the internal threads, and a couple of the external thread parts had threads that were pretty mangled for being new parts. Seems like a QC issue with their supplier.

That’s too bad. How did you fix the threads?? I have a tap/die set but nothing for anything that big...

Heard from Dave B @ FFR today and they’re going to swap it out for me. Great responsiveness and service from FFR so far!

richtersand

11-30-2020, 10:46 PM

Got the black rivets today. As others have reported, the black scratches off relatively easily. But I think it's still a good $40 investment given it will only need to be touched up if scratched during riveting and the multi-grip can handle different thicknesses in one rivet.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138587&d=1606775338

richtersand

12-02-2020, 03:28 AM

Got a few hours in tonight. Torqued most of the bolts on the front suspension and cleaned up the knuckles in preparation for assembly of the rear suspension. Cleaning dirty metal for a couple of hours hasn't been my favorite part of the build, but I'm glad I did it in the end. Mostly scotch brite pads with some wire wheel selectively applied...

Here's the before:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138638&d=1606896670

And the after. Not perfect, as you can see, but good enough to keep pressing.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138639&d=1606896716

Railroad

12-02-2020, 10:04 AM

Good job. I would clear coat or paint to keep them looking new.

richtersand

12-05-2020, 01:11 AM

I am finding one of my favorite moments in the build are throwing away boxes--it feels like progress!

Spent most of my time over the last few days finishing the front suspension and brakes. Got the two front rotors safety wired and everything is installed now. Definitely a learning curve on safety wiring but I think I've got the hang of it now. Pro tip: use rubber mechanics gloves. It was SO much easier after I put these on to grip the wire and form it. The inner wall of the rotor made it hard to insert it at the 9 o'clock / 3 o'clock positions as recommended, so you can see how I ended up in the end... most of the connections are around 7/8 and 1/2 o'clock positions. But I feel comfortable that it will serve its intended purpose to prevent loosening of the bolts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138747&d=1607146549

On the car:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138748&d=1607146645

I think I've hit a milestone because people are now asking, "Are you building a car?" instead of "What are you building?" :D Below is one good recent investment. Got the idea from another member on the forum:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138749&d=1607147539

Here's a mostly worthless timelapse because I'm on the far side of the car. This is work on the first rotor and installing the brake system.

https://youtu.be/j_JshRgb0-0

richtersand

12-08-2020, 02:23 AM

Got the rear wilwoods done loctite'd and wired tonight. Pretty quick once you get the hang of the safety wiring. I was rotating the hats on the plastic bag and unfortunately a piece of safety wire got under the hat and scratched it up a bit:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138903&d=1607411703

I also got the CV axel on the DS inserted and all is well there. The only thing is the bracket holding one of the joints on the rear knuckle is a few thousandths too narrow. I am guessing it's the powder coated frame narrowing the gap. Unfortunately, since we're talking about the sleeve in the knuckle, my usual trick of shaving the sleeve down won't work. I ordered this set of spreading pliers from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JXDSXP4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) so hopefully that will help open it up enough to get the knuckle posted. Wish I had that for the front suspension! I'll report back how well it works. In the meantime, the CV half shaft is sitting on the floor jack fully raised.

Here's the time lapse from the night. Made it through two rotors and two beers.

https://youtu.be/Rg89t8lctYM

edwardb

12-08-2020, 07:03 AM

Those scratches won't show with the wheels mounted. But I know how you feel. I hate damaging new and perfectly good parts. For the suspension, it's very common to have to spread open the tabs. As opposed to adjusting the sleeves or whatever. Those pliers looking interesting (maybe) but there's a real simple method that many of us use. A piece of threaded rod, two washers, two nuts. Size isn't critical. 5/16, 3/8, in that range. Put the threaded rod through the hole in one side. Inside the tab, install washer, nut, nut, washer. In that order. Spin the nuts to where the washers are against the inside of the tabs on each side. Now wrench the nuts enough to open the tabs, pressing on each side. Typically doesn't take much. Hope that helps.

richtersand

12-09-2020, 12:21 AM

Biggest news is I dropped the check in the mail for the Coyote + Transmission from Forte! He said ~6 week lead times so I am guessing 8 weeks before it gets here with delays on the check getting there and the shipping back to the west coast.

Got a really nice note from TXBoiler on my safety wiring. He's an aircraft mechanic and, not surprisingly, had some constructive feedback on my job.

I wanted to PM you to commend you on safety wire. I am a aviation mechanic by training and that skill is second nature. I did want to highlight that the Two bolts in the top center of the photo (11 to 12 o’clock) Could potentially loosen. You don’t want to have the safety wire make a straight line from one bolt to the next; it should make a “lazy backwards S” from the bolt to bolt. For the bolt on the left, It looks like the twist should start at the opposite side of the bolt where the current twist starts or ends. Don’t mean to be critical but since it is a brake Part and it is safety wire .....otherwise great job. If you find this useful please add to your thread for others.

It was a really nice note and I appreciate it. My response was that I totally agree with the less than ideal entry point on the lower bolt. I really tried to make it work with that angle. But the inner wall of the rotor blocks you and makes it really difficult to get a clean feed into the hole. A couple times I tried to wire it that way and ended up stressing the wire so much that it snapped. So I chose the lesser of the two evils, less stress on the wire and less optimal directionality. The instructions actually say use red loctite and optionally safety wire it. I did both, so I hope it will be sufficient. I will keep a close eye on it.

Those pliers looking interesting (maybe) but there's a real simple method that many of us use. A piece of threaded rod, two washers, two nuts. Size isn't critical. 5/16, 3/8, in that range. Put the threaded rod through the hole in one side. Inside the tab, install washer, nut, nut, washer. In that order. Spin the nuts to where the washers are against the inside of the tabs on each side. Now wrench the nuts enough to open the tabs, pressing on each side. Typically doesn't take much. Hope that helps.

Brilliant! I figured there had to be a simple way to do it but, after racking my brain, couldn't come up with anything. For $20 including next day shipping I figured the pliers were worth a try. I'm glad to report that they worked like a charm. I did have to pry the bracket so much that you can actually a little bend. Everything bolted up and fits, but I wish I didn't have to stress the weld that much.

Made progress on the rear suspension over the last couple of days. I guess the pictures tell the story. Next up I plan to install the rear wilwoods and the front sway bar. On the sway bar, I am realizing I should have done this with the front suspension, as I'll need to take apart the lower shock in the front. Not a huge deal, but would have saved a few grunts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138941&d=1607488605

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138940&d=1607488247

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138939&d=1607488163

richtersand

12-09-2020, 03:10 AM

Got the front sway bar installed. Took 2 hours, much longer than expected. My OCD got the best of me and I changed the washers on the mounting brackets to match the gold color. Was debating powder coating this but I kind of like the contrast so I'll probably keep it as is. I left the lower shock hardware loose to confirm angle/fit of the bar with the wheels on.

There was a little interference with the weld bead on the lower outside bracket attachments, so I trimmed it down with the angle grinder.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138943&d=1607501516

The time lapse from tonight:

https://youtu.be/gqn3x4gsCq0

richtersand

12-15-2020, 02:03 AM

Haven't posted on the build thread lately but I've been steadily plugging away. Got the fuel setup figured out. Going to run 3/8 nicopp all the way around with walbro pump, pro-m hangar, and aeromotive regulator (thanks to edwardb for so much great documentation and discussion on this setup). Most of the fuel stuff comes in this week so I am hoping it will be pretty quick to get the fuel tank mounted and everything hooked up. Planning to install drop trunk once I get all of that mocked up. With that I think I can do another powder coat run to finish the rest of the aluminum and random steel parts.

Also getting my order in with Breeze after a few conversations with Mark. He's been really helpful. I am getting the front battery mount, steering rack offset, lower and upper radiator kits, radiator shroud, dead pedal, dash support brackets, radiator cowl cover, and (importantly) four 3/4" square plugs. I must have a blind spot because two times I have hit my head on these corners and cut my forehead in nearly the exact same spot. It's not a bad cut, but enough to get your attention. I think these plugs will provide some degree of protection.

My biggest blockers from FFR at this point are the steering rack and radiator. Wheels are supposed to ship this week. Forte got my check for the engine/transmission, and I expect that to arrive in 6-7 weeks. So I am now on a countdown to run the lines and get the rest of the setup complete. Not rushed, but it's good to have a deadline to work towards.

Some sheet metal has been riveted in, which you can see in the following time lapses. Also got the footbox started. Missing some of the lock nuts and one 1" bolt for that, but McMaster makes it so easy to order these odds and ends. Still a little messy from the silicon, but easy enough to clean up.

Pro tip: if you are going with black panels, do the BLACK GE Silicon II. I started with clear and it stood out as if it were basically white. Huge eye sore. I got the black and haven't looked back. You have to look hard to see it when it's smoothed in, looks great.

Pro tip 2: I can't tell you how many times I have thanked my pneumatic riveter. I didn't think it would make THAT big of a difference but it's such a great investment.

https://youtu.be/pzJuYaIHFOY

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139338&d=1608015332

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139337&d=1608015176

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139336&d=1608015142

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139335&d=1608014978

richtersand

12-15-2020, 02:06 AM

More riveting fun

https://youtu.be/tMm3XEdjYCo

Nigel Allen

12-15-2020, 07:28 AM

Nice progress. From the photos there is open inlet and outlets on your master cylinders. Just a tip if you havent done already, cover them with tape to prevent ingress of any gunk.

Cheers,

Nigel

RBachman

12-15-2020, 08:41 AM

richtersand

12-15-2020, 08:45 AM

Nice progress. From the photos there is open inlet and outlets on your master cylinders. Just a tip if you havent done already, cover them with tape to prevent ingress of any gunk.

Cheers,

Nigel

Good point, thanks Nigel!

cv2065

12-15-2020, 08:55 AM

Love those time lapse videos. Wish I would have done them.

Rook

12-15-2020, 11:01 AM

Looking great! I'm considering ordering some of those black rivets now...

I've got a question for you regarding the driver's footbox floor. I've got enough of a gap under the round tube where it doesn't make much sense to try to rivet the panel to it (in the area indicated by the green arrows below). It looks like you've got that same gap. Were you able to place rivets there?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139352&d=1608047505

richtersand

12-15-2020, 01:26 PM

Looking great! I'm considering ordering some of those black rivets now...

I've got a question for you regarding the driver's footbox floor. I've got enough of a gap under the round tube where it doesn't make much sense to try to rivet the panel to it (in the area indicated by the green arrows below). It looks like you've got that same gap. Were you able to place rivets there?

Hey Rook, no, did not rivet directly to the chassis there since the gap is too big as you point out. Went sheet metal to sheet metal. I am attaching the bottom panel to that round tube (outside) and it feels rock solid to me with all the other frame attachment points.

richtersand

12-16-2020, 05:30 PM

Got a lot of work on trunk sheet metal last night. Also started work on the drop trunk. ALMOST 100% DONE WITH SHEET METAL!!!!!!!!

https://youtu.be/mjZsg8ioyag

richtersand

12-19-2020, 12:48 PM

Spent a lot of time over the last two days working on the drop trunk. Painstaking work... spent a lot of time "measuring twice" in an attempt to get everything properly cut and aligned. In the end, despite all of the planning, it could be better. Lines aren't as straight as I would like and there's one area where the overhang, where the trunk flange rivets, is slightly undercut (I'll post pic soon). Not a huge deal, but I wish it was better given how much time I spent on it. But it's done now and will be covered with carpet anyway so let's roll.

richtersand

12-21-2020, 02:08 AM

Yesterday was a day of research and organization. I am putting in a fair amount of ongoing time to researching in general and reading build threads. It's not nearly as fun as the build portion, but it's obviously critical to make sure I get it right the first time (hopefully). It also makes me appreciate the hours towards the build that much more.

Got the rear wilwoods installed tonight. With those in, I'm going to tackle the e-brake assembly next.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139628&d=1608534344

egchewy79

12-21-2020, 08:41 AM

good work! love the time lapse videos. I've been using my go pro to capture time lapse on my build. Sometimes I'll record, sometimes I forget, a few times I've forgotten to turn it off. I was going to post the entire build once I was done. I figured it'd be a nice project to remember the process.

richtersand

12-22-2020, 09:19 PM

richtersand

12-23-2020, 03:05 AM

Made some progress setting up fuel system prepped for install tonight. This foldable table is probably one of my best purchases for my small garage.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139707&d=1608710039

After a lot of research, I'm finally wrapping my head around the AN fittings setup for my 3/8 line. It's funny how new things like this can feel pretty confusing before you wrap your head around it. Then, once you get it, it seems pretty simple/obvious. But I guess that's part of the learning process. I'm enjoying it.

I have a blocker and a potential issue. The blocker is I'm waiting on Forte to send the pigtail with a safety clip that plugs into the walbro 255lph pump. The potential issue is I noticed a pretty significant dent in the fuel tank when installing my Breeze oversized vent valve. See the picture below. It looks worse than it is in the picture, but it's definitely not insignificant. I emailed Dave B at FFR to see if a replacement is in order. They were awesome with the IRS LCA replacement, so hopefully they will be with this as well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139706&d=1608710015

richtersand

12-23-2020, 03:06 AM

Made an upgrade to the time tracker. You can now see totals of the time based on Type. I also added a fancy pie chart.

Link to Time Tracker (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/15pkcHDoGAEShmHfq4P1-C-4RTAZqZX4Q4H2gAscofLE/edit?usp=sharing)

edwardb

12-23-2020, 07:11 AM

richtersand

12-23-2020, 11:58 PM

I'm with you on liking to see any damage to parts. But as long as that tank doesn't leak, there's really no reason not to use it. That corner is essentially not visible on the completed build. It's tucked in behind the body and rear splash guards. And only a minimal to nonexistent reduction in capacity.

One other point since it's in the picture -- don't forget you have to flatten those bent flanges on around the edge of the tank. Otherwise it won't sit properly in the frame mounts. It's in the manual, but some miss it.

Thanks for the pointer on bending the flanges. Agree it doesn’t seem to be a functional issue. I did also notice a big bend in one of the corner flanges. Would rather have an unbent tank that doesn’t leave me wondering. The good news is Dave B from FFR said they’re going to swap it out for me. I am 10/10 impressed with FFR and their customer service!

Got second round of powder coat back! They charge $8/sq ft for so the little pieces end up costing a couple bucks each. I may have gone a little overboard. Hoping to get the ebrake done this weekend. Running hard lines next week.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139800&d=1608785392

richtersand

12-25-2020, 03:46 AM

edwardb

12-25-2020, 07:57 AM

Tonight I assembled the ebrake and ran the flex lines on the front calipers. I am using edwardb's pulley system (thanks Paul!) with slightly smaller pulleys. Instead of using the modified lokar approach, I am going to cut the lines and re-clamp them. Lokar apparently doesn't sell them anymore, and I am not seeing the advantage to doing this over using the FFR designed assembly. I will be paying extra close attention to the strength of the clamps. Assuming I get good swages, I have to think that a clamp on the line will be at least as robust as the set screws in the lokar.

Nothing particularly magical about the Lokar piece. Too bad they made it hard to get. Apparently maybe still possible directly from Lokar. But haven't followed it closely. Was an easy way to reattach the cables since the mod requires the ends of the cables to be cut off. They're much too long when not routed under the chassis tube. If you have an acceptable method to clamp or swage the shortened cables another way, that's fine. Smaller pulleys are OK I guess. Nothing magical there either. Although there's plenty of room where they're located. The actual cable movement with that Wilwood rear e-brake is very slight. Basically just taking the slack out of the lines engages the e-brake. The main caution to be aware of with this mod is the reduced angle of the cable attachment at the handle. It's very close and/or drags on the rear mounting bolt of the e-brake handle assembly. Some lengthen the handle piece to clear. I didn't find that necessary with (1) The retaining bolt turned over so the head is down, and (2) I sanded off the top of the bolt head to flatten it a bit. Good luck.

richtersand

12-27-2020, 02:29 AM

Thanks Paul. I noticed the drag on the ebrake assembly but it's flat metal to metal without any edges to catch (I did have to switch the orientation of the rear carriage bolt 180 degrees so it would be contacting the clevis assembly and not the nut). I don't think it will be a noticeable issue. If it is, I have a few ideas brewing... I will follow up and post the results when I get the cables cut to the proper length.

I spent time today prepping the hard line brake work. As a happy coincidence, I also received my triple reservoir today from Scotts Hotrods. Wilwood remote reservoirs are 4oz, so I went with the XL 3 oz option. I got it in black to blend in with the frame and black PC. I am very happy with it. There are four flush mount holes in the back that do not require a wide mount bracket and the depth of the reservoirs is minimal. It is tall, but looking at others build pics it appears that there is plenty of space for height. I hit McMaster for the hardware necessary + a 4x6" 3/16 mild steel plate to make the bracket.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139914&d=1609053462

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139913&d=1609053404

richtersand

12-30-2020, 02:11 PM

Made some good progress last night. I got the Breeze front battery box installed. Overall very happy with the quality of the box. My OCD kicked in and I was a little bothered with the three pre-drilled holes for the X member. They are not evenly spaced and they don't line up to the frame very well. I'm not sure why he doesn't leave these undrilled and let the builder take care of it. So I had to choose between using the pre-drilled holes with a slight lean or drilling new holes. The lean is only a few degrees, so I went that direction. I added a couple more rivets in the back for it and tapped the two bottom holes per the instructions. You can see my rivet tool scratched up the PC. I am slowly learning to not press forward while I squeeze the manual rivet tool. I was pressing forward and after it popped the tool pushed into the plate. I guess none of this matters too much because it will all be covered with the battery.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140054&d=1609354586

I also got the ebrake fully installed last night. I am happy with how it all turned out. Since the lokar piece isn't in production any more, I ended up cutting the cables and re-crimping new anchors. I got the crimping tool on Amazon and the 1/8" stop sleeves from McMaster. Took a lot of time to measure it out since you only get one cut. Marked it with the silver sharpie, cut the old anchor off, stripped the insulation from the cable, added TWO new anchors (for redundancy), crimped, and finally cut the cable to the top of the second anchor. Pro tip: feed the cable through the clevis before crimping. This way you don't have to feed two large anchors through the clevis. Had I tried to insert after anchoring, I probably would have had to make the clevis cable insert opening significantly larger.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140057&d=1609354894

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140058&d=1609354975

If there was any doubt as to the strength of the anchors, I put my mind at ease when I made a mistake. I did not have one of the anchors fully seated before I *barely* squeezed the crimp tool. It immediately locked in, so much so that I needed to cut it off and start fresh (pic below). Considering I applied at least 100X more force to fully crimp it down, I am pretty darn confident these anchors aren't going anywhere. The officially advertised strength of these anchors is 40% of the strength of the line, and I have TWO per line.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140055&d=1609354629

Here is the tool + hardware:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140056&d=1609354851

richtersand

01-08-2021, 03:38 AM

Haven't had as much time to post these last couple of weeks but still trying to be as productive as possible in the garage.

Got the fuel pump wired up. Used edwardb's step down butt connectors solution from West Marine. At first they appeared to be too big for the wire gauge but tried a test crimp and it felt very solid with test pulls. The 4X heat shrink sealed it in very tight and appears will provide a lot of ruggedness around the connectors so I'm happy with the way that turned out. I actually bought raychem insulation to wrap around the butt connectors but 1/4" proved to be too small for the insulation around the butt connectors. I did some searching online and found that the heat shrink material should be fine so I'll do the 24 hour gasoline test to see what happens to the insulation. Here's the fuel pump:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140469&d=1610094231

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140468&d=1610094190

I also made the bracket for the triple reservoir. I went with a 3/32 low carbon steel plate from McMaster. I am debating whether to use 3/16 rivets to hold the bracket or bolts with rivet nuts on the back end.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140467&d=1610094159

I also ran my first hard brake line. I am using a test piece here to generate the pattern. I am going to notch the aluminum sheet to lower it so it's hiding out of sight. Thoughts on the route? Do I need gravel guard running it here?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140466&d=1610094053

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140465&d=1610094019

My rims arrived! Wow, they are gorgeous! I just got notice that the radiator is on its way. Last item I'm missing to be done with the POL is the power steering rack. No word on when that's scheduled to arrive. Forte is waiting on the TRX to come in. And my Gas'n headers + pipes are scheduled to arrive in the next few weeks.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140470&d=1610094269

Jeff Kleiner

01-08-2021, 07:19 AM

No need for a shield with the brake line in that location.

Jeff

cv2065

01-08-2021, 02:36 PM

richtersand

01-08-2021, 03:46 PM

You'd be doing yourself a big favor by buying a small compressor and rivet gun from a place like Harbor Freight. $150-$200 all in and you can sell it afterwards if you don't have any more use for it. Easy sell. It will save your forearms, give you better access to awkward riveting locations and avoid scratching your powder coated panels.

Edit: Oops...Just saw one in your time lapse video. Sorry!

No worries, I agree that the air riveter is an amazing addition to the shop. I use it when I have a bunch of rivets to do, but if it's only a few rivets here or there I go old school. Good wrist workout :)

richtersand

01-08-2021, 03:47 PM

No need for a shield with the brake line in that location.

Jeff

Thanks Jeff!

egchewy79

01-08-2021, 03:54 PM

No worries, I agree that the air riveter is an amazing addition to the shop. I use it when I have a bunch of rivets to do, but if it's only a few rivets here or there I go old school. Good wrist workout :)

I hand riveted all my rivets. not sure if that's a badge of honor or a sign of stupidity! the aluminum ones were fine. The hardest ones were the 3/16" SS rivets that came with the breeze battery box. I almost gave myself an aneurysm and/or hernia trying to hand rivet these.

460.465USMC

01-09-2021, 12:29 PM

I just got notice that the radiator is on its way. Last item I'm missing to be done with the POL is the power steering rack.

Nice progress, richtersand! You zoomed right past me. Making great progress! It looks like our builds are similar.

My kit arrived mid-October, and my radiator is also on the POL. No word yet on it being shipped though. Funny thing is my PS rack arrived with my kit. Go figure. Anyway, great work! I will keep following along. Thanks!

P.S. I have a bowtie in my stable as well. Good to know I'm not alone. :)

Scott Walker

01-09-2021, 04:26 PM

richtersand

01-10-2021, 07:56 PM

Looks like you know what you are doing! I'm totally jealous. We received our kit in July and I'm having to stop and figure everything out. First real build for me, and it takes me two to three times as long. Good luck and I'll be following your build now.

Thanks Scott! Don't let the time lapse fool you :p I'm spending a lot of time figuring things out also, but that's part of the fun... I have seen most guys say that at the end of their build they're a little sad that it's done. I've been trying to keep that in mind to enjoy the build journey.

Nice progress, richtersand! You zoomed right past me. Making great progress! It looks like our builds are similar.

My kit arrived mid-October, and my radiator is also on the POL. No word yet on it being shipped though. Funny thing is my PS rack arrived with my kit. Go figure. Anyway, great work! I will keep following along. Thanks!

P.S. I have a bowtie in my stable as well. Good to know I'm not alone. :)

Thanks Chris! I'll follow along your thread as well. Gotta love this community.

richtersand

01-10-2021, 10:02 PM

Check out what came in the mail! Gas'N headers with the double collector (for an easier installation). Side pipes should arrive in the next few weeks. Purchased the set from Georgie. Now I just need an engine! Forte told me he's still waiting on the TKX... fingers crossed it's not a huge lead time.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140563&d=1610326281

I like Georgie's style. The headers came with this packaging ;)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140566&d=1610326375

richtersand

01-11-2021, 01:35 AM

Third time's a charm! See if you can spot the good tank. FFR was AWESOME here, replaced the first two bad tanks immediately, no questions asked.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140565&d=1610326341

richtersand

01-11-2021, 01:43 AM

I was ready to rock with my fuel pump wired up and a good tank. The first concern was the fuel sock, which slides on the intake of the pump. There isn't much of a lock on the sock other than the teeth of the ring which I suppose grab the plastic on the pump.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140564&d=1610326311

I was a little worried about the lack of a positive lock on the sock until I saw it sit in the pump. The bottom of the tank helps support it so I think it's good to go. I might do some kind of camera inspection a few months into driving to verify it's still on there. Miraculously, I did not need to cut the tank at all to get the Pro-M hangar + pump through the opening.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140562&d=1610326217

Had to use the ratchet straps to pull one of the brackets on the rear frame and open it up a bit for the tank.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140560&d=1610326026

Finally, with the tank on. Going to run the fuel lines before closing it up with the drop trunk and sheet metal.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140559&d=1610325958

egchewy79

01-11-2021, 11:06 AM

nice work. the dents in the previous tanks probably wouldn't have affected functionality. kudos to FFR for sending out new ones. I tried to get my sock to sit parallel w/ the walls of the sump area so that it wasn't contacting the wall, but it'll likely function the same. I was having the sock pop off when I was trying to navigate the twist/bend necessary to get the hanger in place until I bent one of the teeth on the ring holding the sock on with a small screwdriver.
Plan on dropping the tank again to install your drop trunk mod if you got the one from Russ. I didn't plan for this and had to drop it to install the pan. I think the darkwater drop trunk is installed from above.
and while you have the tank dropped again, plan on adding some short bolts and nut couplers, esp on the PS upper bolt hole, for the QJ bolts if you plan on using the "kleiner mod" for your QJs. With the tank in place, it's impossible to get even a short bolt in from behind the mounting plate on the upper QJ hole.

richtersand

01-14-2021, 06:47 PM

richtersand

01-14-2021, 06:48 PM

Quick follow up on the West Marine butt connector. After ~48 hours of a gasoline test it looks as good as new:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140721&d=1610667862

richtersand

01-14-2021, 06:54 PM

Had some fun with hard brake lines on Tuesday. I was proud of myself for not forgetting the tube nuts before flaring the ends. But then I forgot to get the tube nut towards the flare prior to making the bend!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140724&d=1610667910

The front hard lines are in place.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140723&d=1610667891

I had a challenge with the NPT <-> AN adapter on the Wilwood caliper. It would only thread in a few turns before it locked tight. Could not even get enough turns in to get the thread sealant engaged. I read online that if this happens with NPT then you slowly work in the female threads 1/4 turn at a time until it has enough engagement. Would appreciate any thoughts/suggestions on this one...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140722&d=1610667876

richtersand

01-20-2021, 12:07 AM

Connected the rear brakes from the splitter.

https://youtu.be/NplKEMI5K_o

richtersand

01-22-2021, 05:06 PM

Finished routing the rear brake hard lines from the front master cylinder. I wanted to take it straight down the 3/4" tube similar to edwardb, but the more I researched the coyote accelerator pedal bracket the more complexity it added. I would have had to figure out a way to get it through the accelerator bracket, the chassis bracket, and then out. And some of that would have been guessing on the routing without the coyote pedal in hand. In short, I saw a ton of additional complexity without much benefit so I decided to take FFR's recommended routing out the slot in the front panel, down, and back along the 4" tube. I don't have any pics yet but here's the time lapse:

https://youtu.be/IZ1c9cSzOGA

I'm almost at 200 hours on the build! Link to Time Tracker (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/15pkcHDoGAEShmHfq4P1-C-4RTAZqZX4Q4H2gAscofLE/edit#gid=0)

richtersand

01-28-2021, 03:27 PM

Still making good progress on the build. Just heard from Dave B @ FFR, and it sounds like my power steering rack is expected mid-February. With that, my last blocker will be the TKX transmission. Talked to Forte about it and never heard so many four letter words strung together. Hopefully they start shipping soon... it's becoming a real possibility that becomes the blocker in the build.

I have been studying Shark92651's build thread pretty closely (thanks for the great detail). Between EdwardB and Shark, they've got the coyote build really well documented. Seeing Shark's LS fuel regulator setup made me decide to switch to that. In addition to being much cheaper, it is also a simpler/cleaner install having pressure fixed @ 58 psi and only running one line up to the engine bay. I was able to return the aeromotive stuff so all good. I'll post more details on this as I get the parts and it comes together.

Brake lines are 99% done. I have gravel guard running the entire length of the rear brake hardline, so I needed to pick up larger line clamps (3/8”) to accommodate the gravel guard. I’m looking forward to bleeding those… seems like it’ll be a good milestone in the build.

Made a lot of progress on the radiator. Almost ready for final bolt-in. I have both the upper and lower radiator mounts from Breeze. I have all the upper mounting holes drilled/threaded. Instead of using rivnuts on the shroud, I went with rivet-mount nuts. Turned out pretty well! The rivets are raised slightly so the plastic fan housing sits on top a bit. My current idea is to slightly elevate the housing with a washer in-between the shroud and the housing unless anyone has a better idea.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141574&d=1611861666

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141576&d=1611861677

Cut off the two tabs on the cross member to make room for the upper breeze hinge. You can also see the routing of the front brake lines here.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141578&d=1611861709

Here it is finished with POR-15.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141577&d=1611861693

richtersand

02-02-2021, 04:51 PM

I have been studying Shark92651's build thread pretty closely (thanks for the great detail). Between EdwardB and Shark, they've got the coyote build really well documented. Seeing Shark's LS fuel regulator setup made me decide to switch to that. In addition to being much cheaper, it is also a simpler/cleaner install having pressure fixed @ 58 psi and only running one line up to the engine bay. I was able to return the aeromotive stuff so all good. I'll post more details on this as I get the parts and it comes together.

Had a bit of a misfire here. Unfortunately, that simple LS regulator/filter setup is ONLY for Gen 2 Coyotes. Gen 3 Coyotes require 65 PSI, so I'm reverting back to the previous setup. I have documented both now, and it is a lot more complicated. C'est la vie.

Gen 2 LS setup:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141596&d=1611873153

Gen 3 setup:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141827&d=1612154184

Rook

02-02-2021, 07:24 PM

Thanks for drawing this out and sharing it with us. It will certainly come in handy when I reach this point in my build.

richtersand

02-02-2021, 11:44 PM

Thanks for drawing this out and sharing it with us. It will certainly come in handy when I reach this point in my build.

Glad to hear it's helpful!

richtersand

02-02-2021, 11:48 PM

So I took my wife on a surprise date today to Superformance to show her what the end result will look like. She loved it, and even 6 months pregnant was able to sit in the only viking blue car on the floor. Her classic comment when we left was, "Get to work." She wasn't joking :D

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141944&d=1612327437

460.465USMC

02-03-2021, 10:14 PM

Had a bit of a misfire here. Unfortunately, that simple LS regulator/filter setup is ONLY for Gen 2 Coyotes. Gen 3 Coyotes require 65 PSI, so I'm reverting back to the previous setup. I have documented both now, and it is a lot more complicated. C'est la vie.

Thanks for sharing this drawing, richtersand. Very helpful to be able to visualize.

460.465USMC

02-03-2021, 10:18 PM

Cut off the two tabs on the cross member to make room for the upper breeze hinge. You can also see the routing of the front brake lines here.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141578&d=1611861709

What tool did you use to cut through the welds to make room for the Breeze radiator mounting system? I've heard of a few ideas, but curious what worked for you?

richtersand

02-03-2021, 11:52 PM

What tool did you use to cut through the welds to make room for the Breeze radiator mounting system? I've heard of a few ideas, but curious what worked for you?

Angle grinder!

jiriza84641

02-04-2021, 12:42 AM

Looking Great buddy!

richtersand

02-04-2021, 04:09 PM

Looking Great buddy!

Thanks!

nucjd19

02-24-2021, 10:48 PM

Really enjoying your build thread. Thanks for the effort. Your videos are just great!

richtersand

03-03-2021, 04:42 PM

Really enjoying your build thread. Thanks for the effort. Your videos are just great!

Thanks so much. I've been wondering if the videos are worth anything because it really just shows me scurrying around the garage. But I appreciate the kind words. Look forward to your updates as well! Hopefully those POL parts come in soon...

richtersand

03-03-2021, 04:52 PM

It has been a long time since my latest post. I always saw other build threads and wondered about that and now I totally get it. Any free time has been spent diving into the build rather than posting updates. I'm also enjoying posting, but only so much time in the day!

Fuel lines are installed. I'll post some better pics of the installation but here's the pattern I made. Pro tip: get hard line to run the patterns. At first, I was using bailing wire. About the only thing this was good for was determining the length of the run. It would immediately lose its shape and I would have to build it from scratch. I did my brake lines without a pattern and a few bends could have been more accurate. I did the fuel lines using the unused steel FFR brake lines and it was game changing. I can't imagine running hard lines without patterns now. Lesson learned for me that hopefully helps someone else.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142816&d=1613535706

Finished installing the brake reservoir. I opted for the larger reservoirs from Scott's Hotrods. They have outlet threads in the rear and the bottom, so you can choose which you want for your setup. I opted for rear since it will clean up the look of the engine bay somewhat. Fabricated the bracket from 3/32 steel, pow

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142818&d=1613535761

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142817&d=1613535730

richtersand

03-03-2021, 04:58 PM

The roll bar hoop isn't sitting right on the bar. I tried all the tricks in the book (i.e., forum posts) and couldn't make anything work. After working through the challenges with Dave @ FFR, he is going to send me a new one. Again, nothing but amazing things to say about customer service @ FFR.

Here's the forum post from a few weeks ago: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?38918-FFR-Roll-Bar-Alignment-Fit

And an image of the roll bar not fully seating on the left:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143667&d=1614808489

richtersand

03-03-2021, 05:08 PM

I posted my interest in developing a minimalist competition dash layout, and low and behold Marcel (CDXXVII) lives just down the road from me and he made a few extra 50 thou dashes when he made his own. I'm really lucky because everything is already cut on a higher quality dash. Saved me a ton of time on this part of the build. Marcel has also been incredibly helpful with perspective, and he's an electrician by trade so he really knows his stuff. Thanks again Marcel!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143666&d=1614808470

Here is my final layout plan:

LED Indicator Lights
Yellow: Turn signal (one light for both turn signals and hazard lights)
Blue: High beam on
Red: Coyote MIL error

Under Dash
Odometer button
Clock button
LED gauge dimmer

Dash Switches
Ignition
Headlights (running lights, headlights, and courtesy lights)
Hazard on/off
High beam on/off
Turn signals controlled by RT turn signal
Horn button on turn signal stalk

Gauges
Vintage gauges, standard setup: speedo, tach, oil pressure, volts, fuel, water temp, clock

I will be fabricating custom glove box. I know this is going to be a lot of work, and not particularly interesting. Marcel talked me into the VW latch, which has an awesome look.

You'll notice I am not planning a power cutoff switch. I have an old corvette and have found this is unnecessary unless there's a power drain. Battery tender keeps it topped off and I think I'll be good.

richtersand

03-03-2021, 05:18 PM

Unfortunately the new TKX transmission is on back order. I was initially expecting the engine package in January, so we're pretty far behind schedule. Not a huge deal, as there's lots to do on the rest of the build. I just heard today that they are getting a few TKXs in the next few weeks and I made my payment back in December so I'm on the list to get one of the TKXs. This is great news, and according to the calculations I should have my engine in the next month. Forte was nice enough to ship me the control pack and other odds and ends from the coyote so I can get ahead on this part of the build while I'm waiting on the engine.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143665&d=1614808445

I am knee deep in wiring at this point:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143664&d=1614808424

richtersand

03-04-2021, 04:54 PM

Talked to Speedhut today about the dimmer for the LED lights and they recommended this dimmer (part number EPL1012-L-P) (https://www.amazon.com/Volt-Dimmer-LED-Halogen-Incandescent/dp/B01C4UBMY6). Install according to the simplified hookup, pictured below. Ordered one today.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143748&d=1614894814

460.465USMC

03-04-2021, 10:37 PM

Great progress! (I'm a member of the turtle build club...slooooow!). Thanks for sharing tips and lessons learned. Since you're just a bit ahead of me it's very relevant. Nice work!

richtersand

03-05-2021, 03:46 PM

Great progress! (I'm a member of the turtle build club...slooooow!). Thanks for sharing tips and lessons learned. Since you're just a bit ahead of me it's very relevant. Nice work!

Thanks Chris, glad we are in this together!!

richtersand

03-05-2021, 03:54 PM

I initially built an angle bracket for the aeromotive fuel regulator, but in studying EdwardB's 20th anniversary build I realized that you can actually make a straight bracket with no angle that mounts directly below the 2" x 2" crossbar. This hides the ugly mount. I am much happier with how it turned out. Original angle bracket is on the left, new one is on the right. I got smarter making the second bracket and used vice grips to lock to the two together and use the original pattern as the drilling guide. You can see how much straighter the second version is. The bracket is off to powder coat now with some other odds and ends.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143829&d=1614977405

My son LOVEs the angle grinder so I invite him out any time I need to cut/grind some metal.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143826&d=1614977216

With the bracket formed, I completed the fuel line routing to the regulator. This is my first time using aluminum AN fittings and PTFE hose ends, so I have to admit that I am nervous about the seals. I purchased this Fragola test kit from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009S5ICJY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to ensure things are sealed before pumping gas through the system.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143827&d=1614977229

460.465USMC

03-05-2021, 09:25 PM

I initially built an angle bracket for the aeromotive fuel regulator, but in studying EdwardB's 20th anniversary build I realized that you can actually make a straight bracket with no angle that mounts directly below the 2" x 2" crossbar.

Great tip! I will be tackling the fuel lines and mounting the Aeromotive pressure regulator in the near future. Duly noted!

My son LOVEs the angle grinder so I invite him out any time I need to cut/grind some metal.

The true genius behind your build has been revealed! ;) What a great helper on your project!!

Blitzboy54

03-10-2021, 09:36 AM

richtersand

03-11-2021, 03:32 AM

Oh man, that kid is adorable. The first time I started getting serious about a Cobra was 16 years ago. Got very close then my wife got pregnant with our now 15 year old so it got shelved. Good for you being able to pull it off.

Ha, thanks Blitz. Making it work, mostly by getting to work after the kiddos go to bed. Hence the 12:30am posts :rolleyes:

richtersand

03-17-2021, 02:43 PM

Still making progress. I heard from Forte that my transmission is in, but still waiting on the bellhousing. Hopefully he can track something down soon.

A few updates to the build plan. After following a discussion on another thread, and seeing the unfinished look of my ignition switch, I ordered some sweet bezels/switches from CJ. I'm pretty excited about this as I'm now finished on the dash look/feel.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144621&d=1616009173

Following the advice of Jeff Miller and CDXXVII, I am not going to finish my dash with leather until final body fitment is complete. Still debating between screws in the front, which is era appropriate, and angle brackets in the back. We'll see. So I'm going to powder coat the dash black and drive with it unfinished for now. Also tentatively planning to drive it in gel coat for a few hundred miles to make sure all the wrinkles are ironed out. Set the gauges up for a little inspiration.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144622&d=1616009194

Got overzealous with the powder coating and didn't realize the tight tolerances on the steering shafts. So I had to hit the "undo" button with some emery cloth to get it back in spec. It now slides nicely into the aluminum hub. I am surprised the two flats on the steering shaft are the only fixture keeping the steering wheel from spinning on the shaft. But then again, I can only imagine how much force it would take to spin that....

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144623&d=1616009215

Made the patterns for the inside rear trunk panels out of 25 thou aluminum sheets from Home Depot. Pretty easy job, particularly after I discovered how easy a jigsaw makes cutting this aluminum. Definitely wish I knew how easy the jigsaw makes it when I was cutting the rear trunk.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144625&d=1616009254

Electrical is all laid out and, with the input from some members on the wiring (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?39102-Coyote-Gen-3-Wiring-Questions) I'm ready to start finalizing everything.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144624&d=1616009231

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=144626&d=1616009272

460.465USMC

03-18-2021, 07:34 PM

Great progress, Matt! Looking good!

I'm seriously considering powder coating my dash as well (permanent finish...no leather). Probably match the body color (TBD). I think the metal is a great nod to these cars heritage, and cars from the 60s in general. I look forward to hearing what you think after you get yours PCd. (The nice bonus to PC option is I won't need to try my hand at auto upholstery).

JB in NOVA

03-18-2021, 09:46 PM

Really nice work! You're going to have a great car.

richtersand

05-17-2021, 02:20 PM

Been making progress over the last couple of months but haven't been able to post as many updates. At this point, I think I'm going to post the big milestones here along with a detailed graduation thread.

With the help of a couple friends, I got the engine installed this weekend! I set up a time lapse to capture it. Took about 1.5 hours. We had a couple of hiccups along the way but nothing too crazy.

https://youtu.be/88MlEjrGfvg

Saw this on the engine when we were setting up. It's hard to make out in the image, but this engine was born on my birthday last year. Took that as a positive omen...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147968&d=1621278130

Here's the crew before the real work started. I ended up buying lift straps on ebay for $40. I had bought the material to make them myself, and thought it would be a good excuse to buy a welder. But at $40 for the set (including shipping) I couldn't justify making them myself. Work had an engine hoist that wasn't being used so I was able to borrow that.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147967&d=1621278118

Here's the mid-birth picture. Engine about halfway in. It is a BEAST!!! There was consensus in the garage before we started that there's no way it would fit. We ditched the covers pretty quickly after we started because we couldn't see any interference with everything covered. You can also see in this pic how uncomfortably close the hoist is to the radiator. After pushing it as far as we could, we realized we needed to take out the radiator to get it installed. No big deal.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147965&d=1621278080

A couple of pics installed. Clearance is TIGHT

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147963&d=1621278045

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147964&d=1621278055

Last but not least, cutting the diagonal out of the transmission tunnel top to make room for the mid-shift kit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147966&d=1621278101

In the end we installed the engine and A frame transmission support. Biggest casualty of the day was some powder coat on the F panel. I'd call that a win. We got greedy and tried to get the drive shaft hooked up but ran into issues with the adapter plate. The holes aren't linking up from the plate to the diff. All in all, a great day and big milestone on the build!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147962&d=1621278029