3-Gen NY 818C Build [Archive] - Factory Five Forums

roadrashrob

11-03-2020, 10:44 AM

Hi all! I was going to hold off on starting a thread until after we received our kit, but with so much to do before the kit even arrives, I figure no time like the present. I've titled the thread "3-Gen" as I will be building the 818C with my Father Bob (77) and my Son Luke (14). The initial goal of the project was to try and spend more father-son time with my son, and hopefully teach him some more useful life skills than spending most of his time on the computer! As my dad and I rebuilt a 1964 1/2 Mustang when I was 15, I thought it would be a great project for all of us to work on. All three of us are headed to Mott Community College for the 818 Build school 11/13-11/15. Luckily, I'm a pilot and own my own Beechcraft Bonanza, so other than the time spent in class, feel we can safely socially distance ourselves and still attend.

We were able to find a 2004 WRX donor on Copart back in mid September for $2,000. Seemed like the ideal donor, with everything we needed. Only challenge was it was located in Savannah, GA, so I went on a 29 hour round trip from NY with a good friend of mine to pick it up. Was actually a fun (and comfortable) trip as we did it in a King Ranch F350. After disabling the aftermarket alarm system, the car fired right up and actually sounded really good.
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Stripping the car and salvaging the parts took us about 4 weeks, and then the carcass was sent to scrap we recovered $45... (Every little bit helps). As our kit isn't scheduled for pickup until 12/19, I didn't have the manual, so based it almost fully on the list of donor parts provided by FFR and the Grass Roots Motorsports video series on the build. Ironically, David did provide me the manual just yesterday, which will definitely help as we prep parts ahead of the kit arriving.

One disappointment in the donor was that in prepping the transmission for cleaning / paint, we found a large chunk of metal in it.
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I consulted a local transmission shop, and their initial advice was to try and find a used, low mileage unit. Sadly, such items don't really exist at a reasonable price. Plenty of them out there, but all greater than $1K. We decided to explore a bit and see what was going on. Turns out, it couldn't have been better news. It was actually the rear diff that totally blew apart, but we discard that anyway. Rest of the trans was in great condition! While apart, we will replace a few bearings, races and seals, but otherwise a solid 5-speed!

We are also rebuilding the engine from the block up. Mainly as part of the "learning experience" for my son. Not looking to modify it too much over stock, but looking for a couple easy upgrades that really won't provide too much risk to the engine as we don't plan to race it of anything crazy. Just figure while we're at it, can tackle a couple mods that seem generally helpful. Please provide any suggestion you might have!! I know one popular thing is to remove the TGV valves. Seems like many of you recommend that.

Cheers for now!
Rob, Luke and Bob

Hobby Racer

11-03-2020, 04:12 PM

Let me b the first one to welcome you! You'll find this is a great place to bounce ideas around, a really great group of like minded people.

Turns out, it couldn't have been better news. It was actually the rear diff that totally blew apart, but we discard that anyway. Rest of the trans was in great condition!

Did you mean the center diff? I can't figure how a chunk of the rear diff would make it into the transmission :confused:

Scott Meyer

11-03-2020, 07:42 PM

Glad to see you are going to document your family build as well Rob! You guys got a heck of a deal on the WRX donor. Don’t ask how much we spent on our running 2.5i NA wagon 😟

roadrashrob

11-04-2020, 12:45 PM

So first of, yes... The "middle" diff.. :o I was thinking "rear" of the two IN the transmission. The trans shop actually called it something different, but I forget what they called it.

The other great part about this donor, is that while I drove 29 hours to get it, the car has clearly never seen snow, and more importantly SALT on the road. Very little to no rust on anything. From looking at other photos in the forum, some of the parts are in pretty bad condition on the donor.

Transmission shop just called that they are done with the tranny. I sent them the FFR manual on the 2WD conversion, so they pulled the parts off for me, split the case to flush it out and inspected everything for any other damage. Says the rest of the tranny is in great condition. Joked that he didn't charge me to take it apart, but was I OK with $150 since he put it back together for me! I thought that was a bargain considering I went into it thinking I possibly needed another transmission.

fletch

11-04-2020, 12:52 PM

Welcome to the fun! We started our build soon after my son's 15th birthday and just got to the go-kart stage. This is my first car project of any magnitude and it's taking a lot of slow, methodical thought. As HobbyRacer says, I think you'll find this group welcoming, supportive, and willing to share their knowledge and experience. I wouldn't have considered a build without the help of these folks.

sgarrett

11-04-2020, 06:16 PM

Welcome aboard....I also had a building experience with my dad when I was 15 (1973 Corvette) and wanted to do the same with my son and daughters. As the months have turned into years so far on this build I find it is harder to get the time for us both to get out there and work than I thought it would be. So take advantage of every moment....they go by fast.

AZPete

11-05-2020, 11:14 AM

Welcome. I also look forward to following your build and the rewards of building with 3 generations. As others have said, this place is welcoming, supportive, and willing to share knowledge and experience. With a rust-free donor you are already a step ahead.

roadrashrob

11-05-2020, 03:07 PM

Thanks for the warm welcomes everyone! I'm really looking forward to leaning on all of your collective wisdom as we venture down this path.

Got my transmission back from the shop yesterday, and thought I'd close that chapter with a picture of what they pulled out. My only guess is it broke when the car was in the accident, and immediately shut down and stopped the transmission moving. Only explanation I can think of for how there was that much metal all throughout the tranny, but no visible damage to anything! Hoping it's a good sign of things to come... :cool:
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roadrashrob

11-05-2020, 03:15 PM

Any idea why my photo is posting sideways? Upright on my phone, and upright on my computer for upload... Tried twice, one after physically rotating it and then saving it...

Scott Meyer

11-05-2020, 05:49 PM

Rob,

The forum posts pictures better when taken in landscape mode on your phone (not portrait mode as you have them). If you have the home button towards the right side when you capture pictures they will load without rotating.

roadrashrob

11-10-2020, 12:55 PM

So, I FINALLY got the cam pulley bolts out. I thought it would be a simple task with with right tools, so got a got (impact quality) 10mm hex bit to not risk snapping my not so good quality 3/8" bit, and a hefty 29mm wrench for the hex part of the cams. One broke fairly easy, one required myself and my hefty neighbor on long breakers, but two wouldn't budge. Tried multiple angles, and multiple approaches, and all to no avail. So I went to my best friend these days, YouTube! As I had the valve covers off, the "logical" approach appeared to be just get a wrench around the hex part, but you really can't get the wrench on good enough. Many of you many be laughing at me, but this is part of the fun learning process! :)

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This video provided such a simple solution, and once the timing belt was set, I easily freed the bolts myself. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd9YeLGABJk
Will likely pull the heads off tomorrow.

Made progress with the steering rack as well. Just debating whether to remove the center seal on the rack or not. If I remove it, I don't need the bypass tube to balance the air, but it does seem to add a bit of additional stability to the rack? As the tie rods are in amazing condition, I plan to just clean and re-plate them so the go on with the factory yellow-chromate look.

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We're off the the FFR build school this weekend. Hoping getting his hands on an actual kit amps up my son's excitement. Stripping down dirty parts seems to have limited appeal to him. He's great once he gets started, but sometimes is tough to motivate. Especially since the clocks went back and it is dark so early....

Will update you after we return from the school!

Bob_n_Cincy

11-10-2020, 08:25 PM

roadrashrob

11-11-2020, 09:44 PM

We head out to Michigan tomorrow for the build school, but while we had some time tonight, showed my dad how we powder coat. Got the steering rack coated. Will re-assemble when we return from the class. Weather cooperating, so looks like an easy flight tomorrow!

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Scott Meyer

11-11-2020, 10:36 PM

I’m jealous you are able to do powder coating at home! Enjoy the build school and wishing you a safe flight. We had beautiful weather here last week and cold front passed into Ohio today, so watch the icing levels as you make your way to Detroit tomorrow!

roadrashrob

11-11-2020, 10:51 PM

Thanks Scott. This project was a great excuse to purchase a cheap oven on Craigs list, and then teach myself how to weld to create what my wife has affectionately named the "Poven" (for Parts-Oven) :-) Just don't look too closely at the welds. I'm clearly still in the "learning" phase, but the sheet metal sure helps! :-)

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roadrashrob

11-19-2020, 06:46 AM

Hey everyone. So my Dad, son and I are freshly back from the FFR Build School and more excited than ever to pickup our kit on 12/19! It was just what my son needed to get a second wind on the project. He was gung-ho tearing down the donor, but started losing a little of the excitement with just a big pile of parts in the garage that we are slowly cleaning and prepping.

I was a bit concerned as he was a bit too shy to introduce himself to the class, but the second we "unpacked" the class car he was always the first to grab a tool and get to work! Lots of great tips and tricks learned in the class that will "hopefully" save us at least a few mistakes. Going into the class I was most concerned about the bodywork as I've never really done any of it in the past. Seeing what's involved, I'm a little less intimidated and think with some patience, and extra hands, we should be able to handle it. (wishful thinking!)

Here's a few pictures from the class.
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Looks like we just squeaked it in as MI just locked down again so looks like classes will be on hold again. I must say that Mott College did a great job of practicing social distancing and mask protocols!

Oh well, back to prepping parts until the kit arrives!

roadrashrob

11-30-2020, 09:24 AM

Sorry for the delay in an update to this thread. We had the Thanksgiving week off, so did a lot of parts prep. I'd by lying if I didn't confess my 14 year old son is losing a bit of interest in cleaning dirty parts. I've been trying to prep the parts, and then have him help with the re-assembly of the newly refurbished parts. He does enjoy sandblasting parts in the cabinet, so he is VERY good at that! :-)

Since build school we worked on the front knuckles. Waiting on one bearing for reassembly, but all parts have been restored. Including the lugs from the donor car!
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Also have the steering rack just waiting on the two lock washers which are in the mail from Subaru
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The heads are out at Head Games Motorworks in New Jersey https://headgamesmotorworks.com/

Will bring the block to Larry's Auto Machine in CT on Wednesday which is doubling as a good excuse to get some flight hours in since he is right next to Groton airport! http://www.larryspower.com/index.html
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Then when everything's back, I have the full Roger Clark Motorsports Timing Belt "kit" to get started with reassemble of the engine. Apparently Gates used to make a good kit, but their quality has gone way down. RCM uses all OEM parts sourced direct from the manufacturers, so less the "Subaru" part number but same part.
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Then finally been picking up some "fun" parts that were not necessarily required, but darn nice to have like Aluminum front LCAs, new turbo and 3-port solenoid, Billeted TGV Delete
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So, I emailed Dave at FFR today to see if my scheduled pickup date of 12/19 is still good. Fingers crossed!

Bob_n_Cincy

11-30-2020, 09:53 AM

Wow, your making every part look brand new.
To keep the interest up. Set small goals. At the stage where you are at, we had a goal of a glider. Watch this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k90o0e-KD4g

roadrashrob

11-30-2020, 10:55 AM

Thanks Bob. Awesome advice and loved the video!

roadrashrob

12-07-2020, 10:21 AM

Getting real close to our scheduled completion date from FFR! 12 days, but who's counting?!! ;-)

Parts prep continues. Powder coated the rear (now front) anti-sway bar. I knew it would be a challenge finding the right angle to get it in the oven and not touch any sides, but a lot of trial and error before coating paid off!
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Finally received the Rack And Pinion Inner Tie Rod Lock Washers so was able to complete the steering rack
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Per Mechie3's recommendation, I polished the inside of my throttle body while sitting in the garage watching football yesterday. Yes, I'm a Jet's fan with the season tickets to prove it, so I needed something to distract me!
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And last but not least, Transmission is finally painted...
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Still waiting on the Machine Shops with the heads and block, so hoping to Cerakote the valve covers this evening....

Ajzride

12-07-2020, 12:24 PM

Yes, I'm a Jet's fan with the season tickets to prove it, so I needed something to distract me!

You need more than a distraction!!

roadrashrob

12-21-2020, 05:18 PM

So, today was "supposed" to be our pickup day for the kit, but they pushed it out last week to the 28th. But I am apparently "on the board" and confirmed for a 10am pickup. In the mean time, we've been prepping as many parts as possible. USPS is definitely struggling, and lot's of small items are apparently "in transit" with no updates. One annoying part being the parking brake "hardware" to finish off my rear end prep.

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Tons of blasting and powder coating as well
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Got the heads back from HeadGames in Princeton NJ, and block should be back from Larry's Auto Machine in Groton, CT next week. Was hoping to have the engine back sooner so I'd have it together BEFORE we picked up the kit. Oh well...
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Decided to accent the engine with Cerakote "Burnt Bronze" Valve Covers and oil pan. I really wanted to try the product more than anything else, and it was awesome to work with, and I love the look!!
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That's it until Monday when we head to Wareham to pickup our kit!!!

roadrashrob

12-29-2020, 06:50 PM

We got it!!!! 3-1/2 hour drive each way, but worth every minute of it.

With Covid, we were unable to get a factory tour in Wareham before ordering our kit. When we arrived yesterday, Dave Smith came out to greet us, and basically gave us the VIP Tour of the new facility next to the original building, as well as through the entire factory / warehouse. Got to see the F9R in person and all I can say is OMG!! Also the 9L V12 they are working on.... Awesome! Dave even posted our pickup on their FaceBook page. Can't thank everyone at FFR for an amazing product and experience.

Here are some pictures from the pickup. Now the build begins! (After inventory..... quite tedious! :( )

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Huge thanks to Scott and Liam Meyer who are thankfully a bit ahead of us, and have provided a lot of "lessons learned"... Including bringing cribbing/padding for the pickup as you need it for the trailer. FFR is spectacular at loading, but it was up to us to protect the nice powder coat from the trailer!

Scott Meyer

12-30-2020, 02:17 PM

Congrats again Rob! What I loved about building my roadster over a decade ago, is the friendships that are created through the forums and building process. Hope you and Luke (and your father) create memories and a beautiful car to enjoy for years to come!

AZPete

12-31-2020, 12:26 PM

The culture of an organization starts at the top. You'll find that the FFR employees and customers are devoted to the company, the products and the processes. After building a Mk3 and an 818, I've found that the culture of excellence permeates everywhere because Dave sets the example.

roadrashrob

12-31-2020, 06:33 PM

Inventory is done! A few missing parts that weren't on the POL, but very minor items.

Parts that won't be touched for a while are in the "warehouse" (otherwise known as the game room above the garage). Coupe top is in deep storage in our Barn as we won't need that for quite some time! I had always planned on putting the build on "wheels" to help me roll it around the garage, but after seeing AZPete's detailed description of his dolly, I'll admit I leveraged a lot from his idea!

I also got the engine block back from the machine shop Tuesday, so that "project" needs to happen in parallel with having the kit now. Unfortunately, US Postal has my Triple Bond 1215 floating around their distribution somewhere, so I can't begin mating the block halves that until it arrives. Was shipped 3-day priority 10 days ago already.... In the Holiday Spirit, I'm cutting them a break as I know it has been rough through the holidays.

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roadrashrob

01-18-2021, 11:17 PM

Bob_n_Cincy

01-19-2021, 02:37 AM

Folks,
All,
I posted this in the 818 Engine Forum, but haven't gotten a reply yet. Hoping someone here can help... While I wait on the POL items from FFR, I'm building up my EJ-20 after getting the block and heads back. Most things are clearly called out in the FSM, or are somewhat self-intuitive.
There's a large coolant plug in the bottom of the engine just behind the thermostat that looks like it "should" have an o-ring or gasket, but the FSM makes no mention of it, and the parts diagrams show the plug, but that's all. Same for it's corresponding nipple on the other half that connects to the oil cooler. Do you just use thread sealant or Three Bond on them? Just seems odd??
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When you buy a new coolant plug from Subaru, it has the green sealant on the threads. I just used Three Bond on my engine.

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The Oil galley plugs are similar but they use copper crush washers. Maybe the reason for the difference is the oil will see 100 Psi and the coolant only sees 15 psi.
Bob

roadrashrob

01-19-2021, 07:01 AM

Thanks Bob! Three Bond it is... :-)

roadrashrob

01-27-2021, 02:44 PM

Sorry I haven't posted for a while. Been working on reassembling the engine, and restoring a lot of the donor hardware, so not very exciting.

I have hit something on the build I'm hoping someone can provide me help with. I went with the Wilwood pedal box, and it required a little sheet metal trimming to get the pistons through the pre-cut holes from FFR (which surprised me but I guess it shouldn't), and then I cut down the piston shafts 1/2" per a lot of other folks recommendations to keep my knees out of my chest!

One question on the Wilwood pedals? FULL travel at this point (no fluid) has it going all the way to where I plan a pedal stop. (last photo) Thus they are still pretty high, but I don't want to cut anymore until I see how much travel I will need with fluid. Any experience, especially with the clutch and the Wilwood cylinder as far as travel goes?

Also related to the Wilwood pedals, I rough placed my steering column in to see if I want to compress it, how high / low I'd like it, etc. Problem is, it comes in contact with the brake pedal? The mounts for the pedal box are set by FFR, so not like I can adjust it. Likewise for the steering column. Enlarging the hole for the grommet is not appealing, as the grommet won't sit nice any longer. I was going to compress the column and fabricate a mounting plate, so I can always move the mounting point over 1/4-1/2" and clear the pedal, but maybe I did something wrong? Anyone else experience this?

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Hobby Racer

01-27-2021, 05:51 PM

Honestly, with the master cylinder shaft lengths, it varies on each build so you should wait until you have fluid in the system to see what your travel turns out to be.

On the steering shaft rubbing the side of the brake pedal, mine does not touch, but it is very close. You may want to sand away some of the brake pedal where it touches or you can dent the steering shaft tube in that area to give clearance. That part of the shaft is hollow and would not be effected by some slight denting.

roadrashrob

01-31-2021, 07:11 PM

So.... I returned from an errand on Saturday and to my surprise, most of my POL was waiting for me on my front porch!!!!

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Only a few items remain, and nothing that will delay me for a LONG while! I've been building up the engine, and while most of it wasn't nearly as bad as I feared, I'm now at a point where I have a LOT of PCV, Vaccum, Coolant, etc hose attach points, and I'm learning that despite all my photos, labelling, etc, there's always a different angle you wish you had! Luckily, the FSM has it called out, as well as the Subaru parts diagrams online.

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Received my ZDB Steering Rack Cradle, so got that mounted as well...

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Now that I have the packaged aluminum, next weekend will be the test of my rotisserie! Hope to just rotate it upside down to install the bottom sheet metal, and coat the bottom with Bed Liner while it's flat and level!

Scott Meyer

02-01-2021, 07:09 AM

Looks good Rob, are you still going to try the rotisserie for the frame to install under body aluminum?

roadrashrob

02-01-2021, 08:46 AM

This weekend hopefully! Just need to pull the engine off the stand as it uses the stand as the pivot point....

roadrashrob

02-04-2021, 08:41 PM

So, after seeing Michael Camera's "oil canning" in his floor pan, I gave mine a second check as I hadn't experienced any. Turns out that while the driver's side is fine, the passenger side was extremely bad. So before flipping it over to install the bottom aluminum and Rhino Line it, I wanted to take care of the issue. Used the torch method as others had suggested, and while it required a little bit of "chasing", the end result is great! Both sides don't oil can under any circumstances now.

Before:
https://youtu.be/UhIEXHBmHB8

After:
https://youtu.be/ro50aaJLhZM

roadrashrob

02-07-2021, 11:58 AM

Well, we did the "Big Flip" of the chassis this weekend so I could work on the bottom more easily. Only one minor snag as the engine hoist rolled a bit, and one of the straps on the tractor end of my homemade rotisserie got snagged for a moment. Quickly resolved and the chassis is now firmly upside down on terra firma! Video link at the end.

As I continue to reassemble the engine, despite hundreds of photos, bagging and tagging everything, I find myself not having a clue what goes in the hole on the left cylinder head indicated by the arrow in the picture. As a reminder, we have a 2004 EJ-205 turbo from a WRX.

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Here's a couple pictures of the flip and a video....
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https://youtu.be/NdfAzhyGN2Y

While it is upside down, it was also easier to cut the tubes out to allow for the front mount fuel tank.
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roadrashrob

02-08-2021, 04:02 PM

So, with the help of some folks in the Engine thread, I was able to determine that there was a "plug" for that hole since I don't have AVCS on my engine. "I" never removed it before sending the heads out, so hence having no recollection or record of it. I went back through the box of original parts that were returned to me by the head shop, and sure enough there was the plug!

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roadrashrob

02-19-2021, 07:14 PM

So, I remember right after I ordered my kit and started reading the build forums, coming across a post by Fletch where he said "the front tank is in, and it's not coming out"! I thought to myself that was a bit odd as one would assume if you put a tank in, you can take it out....

Well... tonight we installed our front mounted tank with a big shout out to Bob_n_Cincy for his help and advise along the way, and I can say that there are no truer words to sum it up than how Fletch did in his original post!! :-) I love how it is mounted, and I think it will provide us a lot more options in the cockpit, but after the bottom panel goes on tomorrow it is NEVER coming out. :o

Did it while we had the car upside down to finish the bottom, and I think that made it much easier as in that position all the fastening was on "top". Hope to prime the bottom tomorrow, and get the bed liner on it Sunday. Then we can flip it back over and finish the four corners to get her to roll...

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Ajzride

02-19-2021, 08:58 PM

I definitely which I had gone with a front mounted tank, would have cleaned up my shift linkage, wiring, and seating position.

roadrashrob

03-08-2021, 09:03 AM

Big weekend for the build! We dropped the engine in. Still have a bunch of hoses to finish off on the engine, but wanted it in so we could see where things would actually be located (and relocated)! Didn't exactly plan it, but love the way the header wrap compliments the "Burnt Bronze" Cerakote I used on the oil pan and valve covers.

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https://youtu.be/gCyqW-kgkuo

While I'm really happy with my rear firewall, I made a labor intensive mistake of using my normal drill template with 3" spacing to drill the holes in the pieces. As I used 0.125 aluminum, the spacing could have easily been 6" and would have cut my work with rivnuts in half! Live and learn....

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roadrashrob

03-10-2021, 06:47 AM

Interesting "setback" as I went to install the rear Wilwood brakes yesterday. As I disassembled and prepped the donor long before having the kit, you'll recall I took my time and cleaned and powder coated the OEM parts as they came off the car. The Wilwood brakes come with a full instruction manual that starts with a "disassembly" section that I just skipped over as we were already disassembled, prepped and ready for installation. They do call for the factory rear backing plate to be modified, and provide a minimally useful template for that, so that part was fairly straight forward. After lots of trial and error getting one side modified, I used that side to make my own template and the second side was a piece of cake.

Then, as I went to slip the rotor and hat on, it hit the factory dust shield and wouldn't seat all the way. Contacted FFR, who then told me to contact Wilwood, and luckily they are West Coast based as it was 6pm in NY. Had them puzzled a bit, sent them some pictures, and they finally identified that right in the manual on page 3 under DISASSEMBLY is says "Remove the dust shield that is spot welded from the front of the caliper mounting bracket (Wilwood suggests removal by drilling through the center of the spot welds)". Ha! Sometimes you really do need to RTFM! Now comes the fun part given my great prep and powder coating of the parts. Trying to FIND the spot welds! :-(

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roadrashrob

03-14-2021, 06:45 AM

So, turns out removing the spot welds and getting the brakes properly installed was much easier than I feared, so all set there!
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A major milestone was we were then able to set her down on the suspension, which I thought was done...
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I am however having a problem with the left rear (and only left) as it relates to Camber and the IRS bracket coming in contact with the shock. Before I can get the camber to centerline, the IRS bracket gets to the point where it touches the shock. I've tried adjusting the toe in with the rear control arm adjustment and that helps a bit, but not enough where I am comfortable with it. I've taken countless measurements to try and understand where the left is disagreeing with the right, but to no avail??
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My donor was a wagon, and I do know the wagon LCAs are about an inch shorter than the sedan. "My" solution for now is I ordered Wagon front LCAs, and my rear ones are adjustable to match the length, so that should give me the clearance I need. Just odd that I know many other builders have used wagon donors so not really sure where the issue is stemming from? It almost appears that my frame is not perfectly "centered / square" in the rear and slightly off, but seeing the factor first hand and how it's welded in a jig, that seems highly unlikely. Any thought?

Scott Meyer

03-14-2021, 06:11 PM

That’s interesting Rob. Did you confirm that you have all of the required spacers in the correct locations? I’ll have to check ours again, but don’t recall seeing any interference issues like that. Donor wheels look good painted up! Got the Wilwood rear calipers to fit.

roadrashrob

03-14-2021, 06:35 PM

Did you confirm that you have all of the required spacers in the correct locations?

My neighbor was actually over while Luke and I were assembling everything, and he was double checking spacer requirements per the manual as we were installing everything as it was easier than going back and forth from car to manual. When the new LCAs arrive, I will do the "triple check" as we reassemble. Just confusing me as there is quite the difference BETWEEN SIDES??

roadrashrob

03-21-2021, 07:13 PM

Ok past builders. I need some help. As my build progresses, there's items that I'm trying to place where to install them that is somewhat difficult when you don't know where "future" items / body panels / accessories may go. I had that problem with my Wilwood reservoirs, but luckily found some good photos of other peoples builds that showed where they would be accessible AFTER the windshield gets installed on my Coupe.

At present, trying to determine the best place to install the IAG Air/Oil Separator I purchased. I'm thinking approximately where I have it mocked up and hanging in this photo, but was looking for guidance on 1) Is that a good location and 2) should I mount it to the rear firewall I installed, or fabricate a bracket to hang it off the left upper frame structure in this photo? Or, if anyone has a better location, please let me know as I would welcome your experience!

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Thanks!

Ajzride

03-21-2021, 07:25 PM

Unless you have a front tank the fuel filler will hit it there.

roadrashrob

03-22-2021, 06:07 AM

Unless you have a front tank the fuel filler will hit it there.

I actually DO have a front tank... But that is the kind of advice I was looking for. Thank you. Hadn't thought of that even with my fuel tank configuration.

roadrashrob

03-23-2021, 05:36 AM

octobersknight

03-23-2021, 10:17 AM

For your AOS: I had some luck placing my oil catch cans near the engine on the diagonal brace, check post #117 at https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?28884-Octobersknight-s-818-Build/page3 . I will note I haven't put the top all the way down onto it, but I had it resting on some blocks on the chassis, maybe 4" high, for the longest time until I could loft it. I don't anticipate any clearance issues. I think your AOS is a little bigger than my catch can but should still do well on the right. I think that location is pretty close to all the bits you need for connection.

For your rear IRS bracket, I have an 06 wagon donor and will check when I get home. I definitely didn't have this clearance problem but will post a pic when I get the chance.

Kiwi Dave

03-23-2021, 10:26 AM

So, in FULLY reading the 106 step instruction manual for the AOS, looks like I'm going to need to find a place to mount it on the other side of the engine compartment closer to the Turbo. I'm still waiting for my Mishimoto Air Intake to arrive, and need to mount the expansion tank that I fabricated a bracket for, so then I can fit everything together. Would still love some advice as I'm sure someone has found a good mounting location in the past.

Hi Rob

Here's where I put mine - different brand, but not fundamentally different. I have a lot of the engine wiring and my expansion tank on the other side, so this seemed like a good spot and the supplied hoses reached OK.

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Cheers

Dave

Dave 53

03-23-2021, 01:26 PM

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octobersknight

03-24-2021, 07:03 AM

My left rear IRS bracket does not interfere with the spring, either before or after alignment.

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One recommendation I followed was to preload your rear springs (they're hard to adjust on-car). It looks like maybe your preload collar hasn't been moved up very far.

roadrashrob

03-24-2021, 08:24 AM

One recommendation I followed was to preload your rear springs (they're hard to adjust on-car). It looks like maybe your preload collar hasn't been moved up very far.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I did notice the same on the springs and adjusted them and also loaded everything up to torque everything down. The bottom collar now clears quite easily. Still odd that the clearances from left to right side are different, but... I'm not going to rack my brain any further trying to determine if FFR has the frame perfectly symmetrical.

Does anyone know the suggested ride height to final set the springs at? I don't see anything in the manual on that?

Also, appreciate all the input and pictures on the AOS install. I have some good ideas now, so just need to fit it all together.

STiPWRD

03-24-2021, 09:16 AM

Does anyone know the suggested ride height to final set the springs at? I don't see anything in the manual on that?

I've been at 4.5" ride height. It seems to clear most bumps in my area.

roadrashrob

03-24-2021, 12:11 PM

Has anyone looked into or been able to obtain insurance for an FFR car while it is still under construction? All of my policies are with State Farm, so I inquired yesterday and it turns out they can't insure it without a VIN (kind of knew that was going to be the case), but that it also WASN'T covered under my homeowners policy as that excludes any "engine propelled vehicle" which was not what I expected. Looking at the investment to date, I'd like to know that in the case of a catastrophe my investment is protected.

Thoughts? Ideas?

STiPWRD

03-24-2021, 12:19 PM

roadrashrob

03-25-2021, 08:56 AM

Mine's insured through NCM, they don't need a VIN
https://ncminsurance.org/collector-car-insurance/

Thanks. I have reached out to them.

Rob T

03-25-2021, 08:59 AM

I used Haggerty agreed value insurance. It's ensured everywhere but on the track. It's not applicable for a street car, just a track only car, but it might work while you are building it.

roadrashrob

03-29-2021, 10:55 AM

NCM gave me a good rate, so I'm in the process of binding a policy with them. Thanks for the pointer!

On the build, made some good progress this weekend. Mishimoto radiator, shroud and Boig Cool tubes all installed with the exception of the right front tube. Will need a slight modification to get it around my front mounted fuel tank. Will try bending it first at the local muffler shop, and if that doesn't work, I can always cut out a small section and join them with radiator hose like all the other joints.

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All the hard lines are in and I'm just waiting on the Wilwood flexlines to be delivered. I did makeup an AN Clutch Flex line per other recommendations to provide easier access should I need to pull anything out of the rear.

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Finally, I think I've narrowed down the location of my AOS and reservoir. Now that I have the bracket I fabricated for the reservoir done, I'm able to mock-up the locations for both. This seems to work nicely. Just need to make a bracket of the AOS now. As before, appreciate any input if anyone sees a problem with this location. Don't always know what the "future" holds in the build sequence!

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Flying the family in the plane to Florida tomorrow for 2 weeks to socially distance in the warm weather at our condo as for the second year in a row our spring break travel was postponed. So, not much will be happening on the 818 until we return....

Scott Meyer

03-29-2021, 08:18 PM

Just as you’re caching up to us...taking the family on a sunny vacation to Florida! Enjoy the time away from NY! As always, your work is OCD inspiring, and looks great.

roadrashrob

04-13-2021, 10:26 AM

So, when we got back from FL I got the cooling gas-off tank and AOS mounted really nicely. As I go to make the final connections of the cooling system, I see a lot of let's say "differing" opinions in the engine thread about the Build manual calling for a hose from the radiator to the gas-off tank, and other options. Was hoping to get a collective approach based on my configuration. I have a new Mishimoto radiator up front, Boig Cool Tubes versus the corrugated FFR supplied pipes, and "Wayne Mod" installed in the water pipe. The pictures show the position of my gas-off tank and AOS.

So question(s) for your collective wisdom are:
- Should I mount the factory overflow tank in the rear per the build manual? Seems to fit nice there and be a good place.
- Should I run the hose from the vent on the top right of the radiator to the gas-off tank, or do I cap it off which was my original plan?
- Should I run a hose from the "Wayne Mod" directly into the port on the gas-off tank? (Not the one under the cap)
- Assuming I then run from the port under the tank into the overflow tank?
- Finally, the overflow port below the radiator cap? I've read a lot of folks have just ensured that the radiator cap is a higher pressure than the gas-of tank so it never actually opens, and just cap that port as well.

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Thanks!

STiPWRD

04-13-2021, 12:15 PM

So question(s) for your collective wisdom are:
- Should I mount the factory overflow tank in the rear per the build manual? Seems to fit nice there and be a good place.
- Should I run the hose from the vent on the top right of the radiator to the gas-off tank, or do I cap it off which was my original plan?
- Should I run a hose from the "Wayne Mod" directly into the port on the gas-off tank? (Not the one under the cap)
- Assuming I then run from the port under the tank into the overflow tank?
- Finally, the overflow port below the radiator cap? I've read a lot of folks have just ensured that the radiator cap is a higher pressure than the gas-of tank so it never actually opens, and just cap that port as well.

1. Yes, run the overflow tank in the rear
2. Yes, cap off the radiator, no need to run a hose to the degas tank
3. Yes, run the hose from the Wayne mod to the degas tank.
4. Correct, not the port under the cap, that one goes to the overflow/recovery tank.
5. I capped off the port under the radiator cap. If you cap it, it won't matter if the radiator cap vents or not.

For bleeding the cooling system, I can't emphasize enough how valuable a vacuum bleeding tool can be (I used the air lift tool).

Ajzride

04-13-2021, 12:21 PM

roadrashrob

04-13-2021, 12:28 PM

1. Yes, run the overflow tank in the rear
2. Yes, cap off the radiator, no need to run a hose to the degas tank
3. Yes, run the hose from the Wayne mod to the degas tank.
4. Correct, not the port under the cap, that one goes to the overflow/recovery tank.
5. I capped off the port under the radiator cap. If you cap it, it won't matter if the radiator cap vents or not.

For bleeding the cooling system, I can't emphasize enough how valuable a vacuum bleeding tool can be (I used the air lift tool).

Thanks! I have an Ares vacuum bleeder as suggested by Scott Meyer.

Still need to "tweak" one of the Cool Tubes in the front and put in a slight 5 degree bend to clear my front mounted fuel tank. Tried my local Midas muffler shop, but they said the 1-1/2" O.D. tube was too narrow for their bender. Trying to find an electrician that may have a hydraulic conduit bender. If anyone has suggestions on bending a fairly thin walled aluminum tube, I'm all ears. Just afraid to kink it without a proper bender.

fletch

04-13-2021, 12:40 PM

I could never get mine to bleed using only Wayne's mod. I eventually put a zero psi cap on the front radiator and took what used to be the overflow nipple through a 5/16 hose back to the de-gas tank and put a T for it and Wayne's mod to vent together into the Degas tank. Other's have gotten their systems to bleed without doing that, I wasn't so lucky.

This.
I also have a heater core and ran a similar tee arrangement off the heater loop for bleeding. And finally, I drilled four 1/8” holes through the thermostat plate to produce some small constant flow through the coolant loop. Still this requires 3-4 heat/cool cycles for bleeding with topoffs in between. We have always filled the system with the car level and have never used a vacuum bleeder. Key to the process is paying close attention to the parts of the loop that are warming and those that aren’t. Squeeze hoses where needed. You can also use a coolant loop pressure tester during the first fill to try to squish the coolant into places where air is trapped.

roadrashrob

04-13-2021, 01:14 PM

Reminds me of how I had to bleed the heating loop in my old house. Installed a bypass on the low pressure valve so I could use high pressure just to force the bleed. So funny the way some folks seem to have no problem, and others struggle. I haven't completed my "heater loop" yet as my factory plumbing is not receptive to the FFR supplied "U". As I plan on a Vintage Air system, haven't decided where to loop it yet, and what fittings to get. Had purchased new factory hoses, but not sure I'll use the heater hoses based on the attached photo. But will need to do something with it as soon as I get the hard tube bent! Will let you know how the bleeding goes...

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aquillen

04-13-2021, 06:57 PM

Thanks! I have an Ares vacuum bleeder as suggested by Scott Meyer.

Still need to "tweak" one of the Cool Tubes in the front and put in a slight 5 degree bend to clear my front mounted fuel tank. Tried my local Midas muffler shop, but they said the 1-1/2" O.D. tube was too narrow for their bender. Trying to find an electrician that may have a hydraulic conduit bender. If anyone has suggestions on bending a fairly thin walled aluminum tube, I'm all ears. Just afraid to kink it without a proper bender.

I showed one way to bend AL tubing in my build, see the index at the beginning - art's 818

roadrashrob

04-14-2021, 07:14 AM

I showed one way to bend AL tubing in my build, see the index at the beginning - art's 818

Thanks Art! That should actually work perfectly, especially given I just need a slight bend. Nothing crazy.

roadrashrob

04-16-2021, 08:10 AM

I showed one way to bend AL tubing in my build, see the index at the beginning - art's 818

Art: Sent you a PM asking why you heated and quenched the AL tube before bending? Did find someone with a 1-1/2" tube bender and dies, so just wanted to understand the prep process before proceeding.

roadrashrob

04-17-2021, 05:48 PM

Every time I think I have a handle on this Subaru engine, I hit another point of the build which confuses me. I get that the top port in the image is the fuel into the fuel rails, and the bottom port is the return. But for the 818, what to I do with the middle port? I have the "parts" it connected to in the overly complicated WRX fuel system, but not sure how to delete that for the 818??

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Shawn818c

04-17-2021, 07:44 PM

The 2 5/16" lines should be the supply and return while the 1/4" line should be part of the Evap system (different year donor are in different locations). There is a plethora of ways to handle based on how complex or simple you would like the system to be, some thread in the 'fuel systems' area.

aquillen

04-18-2021, 09:59 AM

Elaborating on ..."part of the Evap system"... I think you'll find that 3rd vac line goes to the charcoal cannister. When the ECU sees conditions are fit (typically highway driving condition) it opens a purge vacuum valve connected between a nipple on the intake manifold and this 3rd line. That vacuum is routed back to the cannister to purge out fuel fumes (by pulling fresh air into the cannister, and the fuel vapor laden air on into the intake) that have been stored it the charcoal to restore its ability to continue absorbing fumes again later.

A number of reasons for this charcoal thing (in case you don't already know) - reduces fuel vapors released into atmosphere by trapping them and evenutally burning them in the engine instead of letting them escape from the fuel system. Tank HAS to have fume laden air escape when filling the tank (ideally some or most of those fumes are routed to the cannister for trapping while fueling the tank. Fumes must escape when fuel temp increases, fuel sloshes or just sits and evaporates and vapor pressure builds above a very modest pressure level for the tank and plumbing to withstand.

And, keeps fumes from stinking up your garage in standby for one or the other reasons above.

https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1618757543/Vapors_r7q8o6.png

roadrashrob

04-18-2021, 04:17 PM

Thanks Art. Picture definitely helped. I'll likely just cap off the evap port on the fuel pipe (and delete the appropriate codes in the ECU) as I don't plan to use the factory canister and components in my build. My Boyd (front mounted) tank does have a roll-over valve build in with an 8AN nipple, so I was going to come off of that to a charcoal canister similar to what Scott Meyer built. Assuming I'll plug the 3rd "vent" port on the top of the factory fuel pump as well.

roadrashrob

05-02-2021, 09:01 PM

It's been a while since our last update, and a lot of progress has been made!

Boig Cool Tubes finally installed
With the front mounted tank, one of the cool tubes needed to be bent. Followed Art Q's thread on heating the tube up to 650 degrees, then quenching it before bending. Thermometer in hand I started heating the tube, and then unexpectedly at around 570 degrees the tube just fractured in two! That wasn't the end of the world as instead of bending it there, I just decided to add a silicon bend to achieve the angle I needed. Only challenge was how to get the bead into the two ends where it broke? Back to Art's thread, and made myself a similar tool to what he built and if worked better than I could have hoped. The man is truly a genius!! Can't thank him enough for the info in his build thread.

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Shifter and Cables and Bell Crank installed
Once the shifter cables arrived from Midwest Controls, I was able to mount the ZDB shifter (with just Cleco's for now) and run the cables to the bell crank. All went in fairly easily. Only challenge I found was that the ZDB bell crank wants to aim the cables right at the axle. Spent way to long deciding whether to route them over or under until finally deciding on under. They still need to be properly secured to avoid moving.

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Extended the Tunnel
With no tank in the rear, I wanted to extend the tunnel to allow for the e-brake to be mounted a bit further back. Turned out really nice and I'm happy with the way the cables are secured. I did need to move the cables from where I originally thought I'd run them as it made more sense for them to come through the firewall much lower than I thought. Definitely a lot of on the fly changes as you're building things from scratch! What seems like the ideal decision when first made, often has unforeseen implications in subsequent steps.

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I'm about half way through installing the wiring harness, so will post an update to that when it's installed.

Scott Meyer

05-03-2021, 06:18 AM

Excited to hear about your first start soon Rob!

roadrashrob

05-10-2021, 08:25 AM

Huge thanks to K3LAG for not only having the EEPROM to reset the mileage, but the incredibly detailed instructions in his build log. I was stuck trying to get the gauges out, but he made that a relatively simple activity with post #88 in his build thread. I'm still waiting on the MAT sensor that Wayne forgot to send when he returned my harness, but I hope to receive it this week, and "attempt" the first start this weekend. Totally intimidated at the complexity of the EJ engine versus the old school Ford's and GM's I've rebuilt in the past. Fingers crossed it fires up!

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So, Engine electrical all complete, Fuel lines all run. Built a "poor man's" pressure pot from a $29 Tractor Supply air tank to prime the oil through the block. Will get all the fluids in this week and hope for a successful first start next weekend...

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Wish us luck!

roadrashrob

05-15-2021, 01:56 PM

OK, I need some help as I feel way out of my depth here. Wayne from VCP built my harness for me, and I must say I am extremely happy with it. Everything checked out fine, so today I was ready to attempt the first start.

Fuel pump engaged, starter engages, yet after 3 hours of troubleshooting, all efforts to start it failed.

Wayne does provide an MS3PRO Evo ECU, and I have it connected to the licensed version of TunerStudio. Beyond that, I really have no idea how to use TunerStudio to help me get to the root cause of the issue.

What I have checked is:
- Fuel delivery to the rails
- Fuel injectors getting pulse
- Plugs getting spark
- Compression is great

The odd thing is every time we remove a plug (regardless of which cylinder) when we crank it to test the spark the engine pops like it wants to start. Put all four plugs back in, and no signs of even a desire to start.
One time we had 3 plugs out, and it chugged along for a couple of revolutions.

It appears to me to be a timing / ignition problem, but I have no idea how to diagnose with TunerStudio. Ideally, I'd like to see the crank position, cam position, signals, etc during the attempted start. I do believe I captured a log while attempting to start, but no idea what to do with it. Any suggestions how to proceed?

DSR-3

05-15-2021, 04:15 PM

Never seen an MS (I'm a first time Haltech), but would think you should see "evertyhing" real time. First I would verify the configuration of the ECU for your engine.
My challenge was the crank sensor angle, and I recall finding the lead to my solution on an MS forum. Good luck!

Hobby Racer

05-15-2021, 06:44 PM

It appears to me to be a timing / ignition problem, but I have no idea how to diagnose with TunerStudio. Ideally, I'd like to see the crank position, cam position, signals, etc during the attempted start. I do believe I captured a log while attempting to start, but no idea what to do with it. Any suggestions how to proceed?

You are most likely correct. Your best bet is to head over to the MegaSquirt forums (https://www.msextra.com/forums/) and post your questions there. Plus, since you have an MS3Pro Evo, DIYAutotune (https://www.diyautotune.com/) will provide free email and phone support to you.

You should start by reading the manual for the MS3Pro Evo (https://www.ampefi.com/downloads/#documentation) so you can be helpful when people ask you to try things. At the very least you are going to need to know how to capture data logs so you can post them on the forum. They will not be able to help you without the data logs and a copy of your tune file.

It can be a steep learning curve if you're new to EFI, but its doable. The manual has a great pre-start section, follow it.

roadrashrob

05-15-2021, 07:28 PM

Thanks! Yes, I'm on the forum and doing my best to come up to speed. Will reach out to them on Monday. Wayne has also been very helpful. Just a totally new world for me. Last engine I fully rebuilt had a carburetor, distributor cap, and pistons in a "V" formation! :-) Did capture the logs, so hopefully they can help.

roadrashrob

05-20-2021, 08:32 PM

Good news, we had a successful first start, and I'm quickly coming up to speed on MegaSquirt and tuning. Have it at least idling nice and smooth. Just waiting on a wideband O2 sensor to arrive before proceeding with the tuning.

In the mean time, I'm having issues with the coolant. I used a vacuum fill and I'm fairly confident I don't have any air in the system. That said, ran it all the way up to 195 degrees, and not one of the cooling tubes even started to warm up? Water is definitely flowing through the heater "loop", through the AOS, and from the Wayne-mod up to the reservoir tank. I installed a brand new Subaru OEM thermostat. Any thoughts? Suggested troubleshooting tips?

Hobby Racer

05-20-2021, 09:07 PM

roadrashrob

05-20-2021, 10:29 PM

Did you let it go past 195? Let it go to around 205 and see if coolant starts to flow to the radiator. 195 is right at the opening point so you might not see a lot of flow.

Glad to see your coming up to speed on MegaSquirt. It is a great, flexable system if you put the time into understanding it.

So, given TunerStudio had a yellow line at 195, I was afraid to let it go above that. Will absolutely try tomorrow to go higher. Thanks!

Hobby Racer

05-21-2021, 05:07 AM

So, given TunerStudio had a yellow line at 195, I was afraid to let it go above that. Will absolutely try tomorrow to go higher. Thanks!

The yellow line is just the default warning level and can be adjusted by the user in the interface, its arbitrary.

roadrashrob

05-21-2021, 12:23 PM

Thanks. I guess I just fell back on my upbringing that yellow is bad! :-) Will give it another shot tonight and let it get warmer, and read the FSM to see what the normal safe operating temp range is and set the dash accordingly.

As I'm just starting to "learn" TunerStudio and MegaSquirt, I'm looking down the road a bit to find a good tuner when the time comes. I've been communicating with EFI Logics in CT, and they've brought up a few things I was looking for those of you who race your 818's to weigh in on. I have no intention of "racing" our 818C, but I did intend on trying to get decent horsepower out of the mostly stock components. The one thing I did upgrade was the Turbo to a Forced Performance Blue, and added a 3-port boost solenoid. My intent was not to max out the boost, but to get a much more smooth boost curve with a little extra boost.

That said, EFI Logics suggests that in order to keep the car from having issues I should:
- Upgrade to Injector Dynamics 1050x injectors
- Walbro 255/AEM 340 fuel pump if you don't already have one
- A decent size intake/filter/turbo inlet tube if you don't already have that situated, my guess is it was necessary on the 818 chassis. (This I have done already)
- And I'd probably plan on a good aftermarket intercooler like a Process West or Grimmspeed - although a stock STi intercooler might be enough - the stock WRX intercooler is just too small. Or an AWIC

Once again, I'm running stock rods with new pistons & rings on my EJ20. I don't want to max power, but rather keep it in a very safe daily driver "sporty" range. Would love any advice / opinion on the above. Also, given I'm building the coupe, would an AWIC be a better way to go with intercooler?

idf

05-21-2021, 01:30 PM

Your tuner and mine had almost the same thoughts. Here is my list (EJ25):
Cobb air intake
Perrin turbo inlet
Blouch Dominator 1.5 turbo
Cobb electronic boost control solenoid
Walbro fuel pump
Injector Dynamics 1000 injectors
TGV delete
Air pump delete
EGR delete
Catalytic converter delete
Cobb Access Port
STI intercooler.
With that set up 325 RWHP. He said he could get 350-375.

roadrashrob

05-21-2021, 04:24 PM

Some days I don't know whether the project is moving forward or backward. After every victory, there's another challenge ahead. Appears the thermostat is now working, and the cooling system is actually functioning very nicely. I have a Mishimoto radiator and fan shroud, and it started flowing around 200 degrees, and actually came down a few degrees and held. So that problem solved.

While running, I wanted to just run the transmission through a few gears and get a feel where the clutch bites. Even without the cables connected, I cannot even budge the transmission left or right. Seems like it is stuck in 3rd and 4th gears, as back and forth moves normally and the transmission engages and drives the wheels nicely. Any thoughts? I know it used to run through the gears while I was cleaning it up from the donor and prepping to install it.

roadrashrob

05-25-2021, 07:32 AM

So, the one step forward, one step backward saga continues. Was able to get the trans to shift through all 5 gears and reverse, so victory.

Next issue uncovered was now that I have the engine base tune running fairly well, and I'm able to run it up to temp, I noticed an oil leak coming from the timing belt cover. Was able to remove both side covers with the engine in, and nothing problematic was visible. So out came the engine! Amazing how much easier things are once you know what you are doing. It "appears" that despite a new crush washer and Blue Bloc on the threads, the oil is coming from the pressure relief plug. Ordered a new plug and washer for now, and will see it that stops the leak. Will run the starter with no plugs in after I replace them to build oil pressure and ensure no more leaks and that was actually the problem area.

I had two questions for everyone:

1) While I have the valve out, should I replace the valve (plunger) if my original looks good? Only $4

2) I would like a much better view of my actual oil pressure and it is my understanding that the factory Oil Pressure Sender is more like a binary idiot switch. Simply turns the light off of it has enough pressure. Is that true? While the engine is out, I would really like to replace that with a sensor & gauge that can report actual oil pressure. Can anyone recommend one that would work well with my 2004 EJ20?
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Hobby Racer

05-25-2021, 07:46 AM

Since your using a MegaSquirt ECU, almost any oil pressure sensor will work, so long as you can obtain the calibration data for the sensor. I use the cheap ones off e-Bay like this one.

Cheap pressure sensor (https://www.ebay.com/itm/164454979248?epid=16018557740&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item264a47d6b0:g:XjQAAOSwh6xfq06N&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACkBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%252 Fn%252BzU5L90Z278x5ickkfOCvCjTOBWK8pwriaolq5gsp1jj v7YR0rBHKWTSV5OtSQDYfY9K3BlSC2Ry3ravNSE5cPpeJ3slJ% 252FnC5xtDelzyC6h9FqpE4DfYaMJAkyKbdUvTqvfSEzPah4Al tM4WPB92LNgoF29oLMj1tWobbpsbinYXMQwodPZQrFH5DyGTav guoutKp8y9mQ4MKuZYT84ESU2Ms8OfefMBO8uLy3YQB5XacFnZ O5yvoqEwvC%252B%252F1dJzLSAtlBPfZ%252Bep4VzF7ekPuy PlAU8ZpQGOVc%252F04NS6LjqxMazlwyAI1kPJn%252Fyt114k a5qZv5ledJhdkJh9R6dHbX1Ut5V%252BSCH60MOouWpydyvj5Y yzUwzCxh%252FjG0ulV4fbj%252FzeIY972Yi5vjsIsgVp3gjT 5pF4Pe%252FigDxaH8d1CHIUCSQ1MG9Lu%252BX8PzzI70wC3u JpRMYsodQtF%252FLSlf%252FYB2aZTSGE4EHQE7Z%252Fjqok cCDdw%252FBlKV6BnVaMTIOtX8qHrVlWuKVs7OhYtbVWB%252F M9F0hL4wj9GRL%252BeCNf1pVHJdXcCMZDQZJhBDNyYdEmx9Ed lTcV9u13YxBOUNlvQ3Rl6Oaavc49Peq399UH5Z5MbMIRjgkley CkG%252BONPeh0uAu%252Bzo1xOmoCYsSVkvkP2hnRSFA1RaD8 pZs79vakoIDeDb6JV2ekPYR%252F8EbSYcefNpw1sKWxMho0AN tQ4ZJkHkcb9xF%252FC4IP07%252BkZE2a40m95FNndD4BWX%2 52FPjMKljVSIWMKdfCd39pdx19d6LVV%252B65aOEC1N753QMw jShOF43fZSe50FZtk5t8nYhSVrMfNtCti3FlDsl681w6ben5h2 L%7Ccksum%3A1644549792486f794d20612c4eec98b180c29c 4ef2eb%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524)

If you look in the description section you will see the calibration data. I.E. 0 psi @ 0.5V and 100 psi @ 4.5V. You need this type of information to setup the sensor in TunerStudio so you can get the right data out. Be sure you can get this data before purchasing a sensor.

roadrashrob

05-25-2021, 08:34 AM

Perfect, Thanks!

I also really owe a huge shout out to Wayne at VCP for the wiring harness. Originally I was not thrilled about using MegaSquirt over the Subaru ECU. Unfortunately, iWire is no longer making the 818 harnesses, so the options were VCP and MegaSquirt, or dieting myself.

The harness from Wayne was so streamlined, neat, and ready to plug and play. MegaSquirt has actually been fun to learn, although I am still totally clueless. That said, it comes with Tech Support from AMP/EFO, and Matt Happel, their lead engineer has been extremely helpful in getting the base tune down and the car up and running. In fairness to Wayne, I didn't realize the MS3Pro had a built in MAP sensor, so I didn't have vacuum going to it and the main reason it wouldn't start.

148469148470

J R Jones

05-25-2021, 09:51 AM

Rob, Be cautious with the oil leak. The plug and seal ring are as simple as parts can be, and you added sealant. I am not familiar with Blue Bloc; I use Permatex #2 on everything. Still the design is based on clamping on a ring seal. Seal ring look OK?
I have encountered a crack in a threaded boss that looked like a plug issue.
I did have a EZ36 engine that developed an oil leak in that area. It turned out to be the fiber washer between the timing housing and the block at oil pump gally. Of the ~12 housing seals the rest were O-rings as was the Subaru replacement.
jim

roadrashrob

05-25-2021, 10:23 AM

Thanks Jim. Has me concerned as well. The ring was brand new as part of the gasket kit I bought from Subaru. Slight possibility there was a bit of contamination between it and the plug. Can't really be sure as some flakes cam from the area, but assume there were from the surface. Forgot the "K", so it is actually Hercules Blue Block. My buddy that builds race engines had me put it on all threads / crush washers. He was shocked as well when the leak was there.

My plan is to examine it much more closely this weekend when he comes to put a second pair of eyes on it with light and magnifying glass, and turn the engine over quite a bit without the plugs to try and build as much pressure as possible. I want to be 100% sure I've resolved the problem before putting it back in. As you said, I expected "other" problems, but that area is a fairly simple sealing point.

roadrashrob

05-28-2021, 08:43 AM

I'm raising this question here versus the Engine section, as my question is beyond just a pure "technical" question and much more related to our build and our goals for our 818.

Our primary design goal was a fun (sporty) weekend driver, that we may take on a track once a year purely for fun track driving, nothing competitive.

To accomplish that, my "plan" (likely a bit uninformed) was a few minor bolt-on upgrades:

- Heads were machined by HeadGames Motorsports
- Block was machined by Larry's Machine shop, with new pistons / rings on original factory rods
- Killer Bee Oil Pickup
- Upgraded Turbo to Forced Performance Blue w/ 3-port boost control primarily as the consensus was the stock turbo was poor, and I just wanted a better power curve versus increased total boost (My first uninformed decision)
- Tomei Silicone Turbo Inlet Hose
- Mishimoto Air intake / filter
- IAG V2 Top Feed TGV Housings (for TGV Delete)
- IAG Comp AOS

All the above has been completed, and this is where I was informed of the consequences of my decisions. For those following my build, I've been on an accelerated learning curve around MegaSquirt and successfully have the car running and idling now. I wanted to get it to a "real" tuner once we are at go-karting stage, and they pointed out some of the things I hadn't considered, but will pretty much require based on the upgrades I made. Those include:

- AEM 340 Fuel Pump
- Injector Dynamics 1050x Injectors
- And the reason for this post, I need to upgrade the stock WRX intercooler!

So now I need to make a decision of going with something like what the tuner recommended (Grimmspeed or Process West), or an AWIC which I believe I would lean towards VCP's. An AWIC is around twice the cost of Air-to-Air, and obviously more involved to install. I'd "prefer" the Air-to-Air route, but don't want to waste half the cost of AWIC, only to have to upgrade later. I'm sure it's not a black and white situation, but would love your input so I can make an informed decision.

Hobby Racer

05-28-2021, 08:59 AM

I am also currently in the process of moving an from air-to-air to AWIC intercooler. The issue you are going to have with any air-to-air is your ability to get sufficient air flow through the core. Being mid-engined the air flow around the back section of the car is turbulent and generally lower pressure than you will find at the front of the car. Without making significant changes to the body work (i.e. huge air ducts) I think it will be difficult to get the flow you will need.

I was running 100+ mph on track and still could not get enough air flow from my enlarged side vent to get the inlet air temps I want. I have not installed the AWIC yet so I can not report on its effectiveness. I have heard that even that will fail short of my cooling goals, but I gotta try something!

Lastly you do not need 1000+cc/min injectors. All the Suby guys immediately jump to the huge injectors. They are much more $$$ and they make it difficult to get a smooth idle and light cruise performance. Calculate what you really need here (https://fuelinjectorclinic.com/flow-calculator) and find suitable injectors.

Dave 53

05-28-2021, 10:14 AM

I've got 1050cc injectors from the previous owner. My car is currently tuned for engine break in (4,500 rev limit and not sure what else). It seems to idle and drive fine and looking forward to getting the final tune which should be even better! I'm guessing they would be enough if I ever wanted to try E85 (no plans). They might be over kill and maybe not what I would have gone with from scratch - it's what the car came with. I just wanted to report drivability / idle is good.

Seems AWIC over a2a is a no brainer in these cars. The issue is cost. Not too hard to install without body panels. But, if you want it later, it's cost AND taking the body apart. You'll be cussing yourself that you just didn't do it when it was a go cart. I went with Zero Decibel AWIC - 5 stars!

roadrashrob

05-28-2021, 10:31 AM

Thanks. Both very helpful.

Based on Hobby's input and the fact I would never make over 350shp, 650cc injectors "would be" more than enough (unless E85). I have ordered and paid for the 1050x's already, but they haven't arrived. Need to make a decision. Your input helps that you are idling smoothly. Looks like 650cc or 700cc would save me about $100 (for new ones), but then there's the hassle of the return.

My only hesitation on the ZDB AWIC is that I upgraded to the FP Blue Turbo, so I'd be on my own for the clocking bracket and any other mods to make it work. VCP sits a little further back, but picks up off the normally clocked turbo.

STiPWRD

05-28-2021, 02:39 PM

I'm also running ID1050x injectors and AWIC. I'd keep the 1050x's you ordered, it's good to have margin on injector duty cycle and they will allow you more freedom later on in case you want to up the power. To me, that's worth the $100. For the AWIC, I pieced it together from ZDB for about $500 which is about a 3rd of the VCP kit, definitely money well spent. I'm not too familiar with the FP blue but I'm running an 18g turbo and it clears the AWIC/brackets with plenty of space.

roadrashrob

05-28-2021, 04:22 PM

Just looked at the AWIC portion of your build thread STiPWRD. Very nice install! I'll reach out to Craig for help with the parts as you did as I was just shying away because I thought I "had" to clock my turbo. Clearly it works without clocking. :-)

roadrashrob

05-29-2021, 03:05 PM

Every action on the EJ20 engine seems to lead me to an equal and opposite question. In this case, while the engine is out I'm upgrading the oil pressure sending unit to one that can pass the actual oil pressure to MegaSquirt. Easy enough, and Hobby Racer was even kind enough to share the one he uses, so I purchased one: Cheap Oil Sensor (https://www.ebay.com/itm/164454979248?epid=16018557740&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item264a47d6b0:g:XjQAAOSwh6xfq06N&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACkBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%252 Fn%252BzU5L90Z278x5ickkfOCvCjTOBWK8pwriaolq5gsp1jj v7YR0rBHKWTSV5OtSQDYfY9K3BlSC2Ry3ravNSE5cPpeJ3slJ% 252FnC5xtDelzyC6h9FqpE4DfYaMJAkyKbdUvTqvfSEzPah4Al tM4WPB92LNgoF29oLMj1tWobbpsbinYXMQwodPZQrFH5DyGTav guoutKp8y9mQ4MKuZYT84ESU2Ms8OfefMBO8uLy3YQB5XacFnZ O5yvoqEwvC%252B%252F1dJzLSAtlBPfZ%252Bep4VzF7ekPuy PlAU8ZpQGOVc%252F04NS6LjqxMazlwyAI1kPJn%252Fyt114k a5qZv5ledJhdkJh9R6dHbX1Ut5V%252BSCH60MOouWpydyvj5Y yzUwzCxh%252FjG0ulV4fbj%252FzeIY972Yi5vjsIsgVp3gjT 5pF4Pe%252FigDxaH8d1CHIUCSQ1MG9Lu%252BX8PzzI70wC3u JpRMYsodQtF%252FLSlf%252FYB2aZTSGE4EHQE7Z%252Fjqok cCDdw%252FBlKV6BnVaMTIOtX8qHrVlWuKVs7OhYtbVWB%252F M9F0hL4wj9GRL%252BeCNf1pVHJdXcCMZDQZJhBDNyYdEmx9Ed lTcV9u13YxBOUNlvQ3Rl6Oaavc49Peq399UH5Z5MbMIRjgkley CkG%252BONPeh0uAu%252Bzo1xOmoCYsSVkvkP2hnRSFA1RaD8 pZs79vakoIDeDb6JV2ekPYR%252F8EbSYcefNpw1sKWxMho0AN tQ4ZJkHkcb9xF%252FC4IP07%252BkZE2a40m95FNndD4BWX%2 52FPjMKljVSIWMKdfCd39pdx19d6LVV%252B65aOEC1N753QMw jShOF43fZSe50FZtk5t8nYhSVrMfNtCti3FlDsl681w6ben5h2 L%7Ccksum%3A1644549792486f794d20612c4eec98b180c29c 4ef2eb%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524)

It clearly has 1/8" NPT threads, but apparently the OEM sensor has threads that are very close, but not the same. Nearest I can tell, the bushing had standard M10-1.0 threads, and the sensor bit into them to seal (total speculation). I tapped the bushing 1/8" NPT and solved the issue, but I'm still very curious as to what the threads actually are? They seem to be the same as one of the ports off my Intake manifold which I wanted to use a 1/8" NPT to 1/8" nipple for the MAP sensor in the ECU, but the threads just weren't the same?? I'm sure someone can help educate me on them...

RPGs818SNA

05-29-2021, 10:29 PM

My intake manifold vacuum fitting was British Standard Pipe Taper (BSPT). The three are pretty close:

NPT BSPT M10
Nominal size 1/8" 1/8" 10mm
Threads per inch 27 28 25.4
Major diameter 0.405 0.383 0.394

I like your solution. Fast, simple, and effective.

Note: I tried every which way to make the above look like a table with no luck. But the information is there.

roadrashrob

06-03-2021, 08:46 AM

I tend to be fairly competent with electronics and reading schematics. I could use your help sorting out my headlight switch. As mentioned in a previous post, I had Wayne supply my wiring harness, and I am extremely pleased with it. I'm quickly coming up to speed on MegaSquirt and Tuner Studio, so lots of things I'm able to do with it.

One thing that is annoying me is that my headlights come on when the switch is in the parking light position. Wayne explained that because my '04 had two filaments, and the FFR is a projector, he needed to supply power in both settings and used the parking light position to "supply" power. I'm examining the schematic for the lights as I can't believe it will be that difficult to have them function normally. I've learned to read the FSM diagrams fairly well, locate the proper connectors, etc. One thing that is throwing me off is their depiction of the lighting switch, and particularly the letters in the right column (EL, TC, HC, E, HL, HU, HF) I get the switch "connections" it is making, but not the lettering. Also, why switch to TC and HL if they don't go anywhere? My assumption is my '04 WRX just didn't have the features they are there for?

148966

RPGs818SNA

06-03-2021, 09:43 PM

Rob, I don't have an answer for how to make it work yet, but here's a list of pins in the connector to the switch for a 2006 Impreza. Note that the TC and HL connections are shown on a different schematic sheet. I've also taken a guess as to the meaning of the abbreviations for the switch pin labels. You should verify these pins with your 04 WRX schematics. I'm pretty sure the headlights can be made to function normally. Unfortunately I'm away from my car and my kit headlights right now, and don't have any information on how Wayne wired up your connectors. But I'll dig in next week if no one else has the answer.

148998

RPG

roadrashrob

06-04-2021, 05:20 AM

Thanks. Very helpful!

RPGs818SNA

06-10-2021, 08:53 AM

Rob, here’s some more info that may be helpful. I’ve mapped out the donor headlight connector as well to figure out what we are working with.

149301

The donor driver side headlight connector Pin 5 provides power to both beams when the ignition is on. Pin 1 provides a switched ground to the high beam filament and Pin 2 provides a switched ground to the low beam filament. Pin 2 also provides a switched ground through the Daytime Running Light resistor when DRL is active.

The projector headlight provides two wires for power and ground to light the headlight. It also provides 2 wires to energize the shield solenoid to unblock the high part of the beam.

One way to make this work is to wire Pin 5 to one side of the headlight and to one side of the shield solenoid, powering both when the ignition is on. Then wire Pin 2, the low beam switched ground, to the other side of the headlight. This keeps the headlight on, dimmed or undimmed, whenever the ignition is on. If you don’t like DRL, delete the DRL control module and resistor (red “X”s). Then the headlights only come on with the headlight switch in position II or the dimmer switch pulled back to flash the lights for passing. For the high beams, wire Pin 1 to the shield solenoid.

Here’s a rough and ugly schematic of how I plan to wire mine. I’ve shown one side wired in blue. I’ve also shown where to cut to delete the DRL feature.
152728

Now the parking lights can be wired to Pin 7 and the turn signals to Pin 8 and they should light normally.

This arrangement should work using the donor harness. I don’t understand how your harness is wired, so you may have to do some adjusting on it. If you have a schematic of your harness, I’d be happy to suggest changes to make it work the way you want it to. They may not be simple.

Good luck with all this,
RPG

roadrashrob

06-10-2021, 08:59 AM

Thanks RPG. This is awesome! I should be able to figure it out from here...

-Rob

RPGs818SNA

06-11-2021, 10:18 AM

Rob, Sorry, I got the sense of the shield solenoid backwards. I tested it and found that energizing the solenoid UNblocked the high beam. So now the wiring is easy. I corrected my earlier post text and schematic. Hope your wiring changes go well.
RPG

roadrashrob

06-11-2021, 12:01 PM

Awesome! Thanks for catching and correcting...

roadrashrob

06-14-2021, 08:57 AM

Hey Folks. Update on the oil leak. After replacing the plug and seal on the oil pump, I cranked the engine periodically with spark plugs removed over the course of a week, and looked like I solved the problem. Well, put the engine in, cranked it over, and within 5 minutes it was leaking oil, and worse than before. With experience under my belt, engine came back out in under an hour, and 30 minutes later identified the "real" issue as a damaged seal around the crank. Luckily, when I purchased the plug and washer, I also ordered a seal as I originally thought it was that. Fluids can really be misleading when tracking down leaks...

While it's out I decided to plumb in a slight extension to the oil pressure sender, as it is virtually impossible to get to with the engine installed. Also ordered new engine mounts, as I couldn't achieve the required torque on my donor mounts, and watching some of the videos of how much the engine actually moves around made me want to ensure my mounts were in good shape.

Hope to have the parts, and the engine back in for next weekend to get back to getting my base tune ironed out. Hoping with the wideband O2 sensor, and enhanced timing marks, I can get it running much better.
149506

Sgt.Gator

06-15-2021, 03:03 PM

For future reference and other builders... the oem oil pressure port in the front is not 1/8" NPT, as stated above it is 1/8" BSPT. Autometer and other gauge companies sell a 1/8" BSPT to 1/8" NPT adaptor: https://www.autometer.com/1-8-npt-to-1-8-bspt-pressure.html

149531

Another widely used port is in the back, passenger side, a M18 x 1.5 port. Again there are adaptors that fit the port and allow a 1/8" NPT sensor to be installed.
149532 and 149533

The best part about this port is you can use a remote mount sensor to keep it away from the engine vibrations using a kit like this:

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0277/9175/products/Oil_extension_kit_WM_large.jpg?v=1571438848

https://www.fastwrx.com/products/remote-oil-pressure-sending-kit

As for the injectors, IMHO keep the ID1050x. Once you go over 300HP you will be glad you have them.

roadrashrob

06-16-2021, 06:44 AM

Very helpful. Thank!

roadrashrob

06-21-2021, 10:02 PM

OK, so... Major milestone to announce. With the help of Matt Cramer at AMP/EFI, I finally got to the root cause of my engine "issues", after I corrected the leaking oil seal. Tonight we finally brought the engine up to temperature, and I was able to adjust the fuel table to get a really nice idle out of it! Turns out, the wiring of my coils had coils C & D reversed, while the injectors were correct. Amazed I even got the engine to run prior to the oil leak with the cylinders firing out of sequence like that, but at least I finally corrected the problem. Now we just need to work on the rest of the tuning parameters. OGPedXing has an amazing series of YouTube videos which is helping me get really comfortable with TunerStudio and MS3!

Now that I ran it up to temp, I do have a question for you as I'm not familiar at all to boosted engines. I do see that the up-pipe to my turbo is so hot it is glowing. Is that normal for a turbo engine? I saw it before, but given the backfiring and issues, I assumed it was caused by the fuel detonating in the exhaust. Now that it is running smoothly, I'm still noticing the intense heat. So, normal? Or should I be concerned? The heat shield keeps it under control, but it just seems really hot.

Bob_n_Cincy

06-21-2021, 10:56 PM

Hobby Racer

06-22-2021, 05:46 AM

some up-pipes have a catalytic converter inside. your might be clogged.

+1, it should not be that hot just from idling.

roadrashrob

06-22-2021, 09:24 AM

Thanks guys. I definitely have a cat in mine as it is the original from my donor. Given I'm not using the stock ECU, and don't have the O2 sensor post that cat, can I just get an aftermarket up-pipe without the cat? Any suggestions? It was running extremely rich until I adjusted the fuel tables, so in addition to all the stuff it likely accumulated since 2004, it's also really carboned up at the moment.

149779149780149781

J R Jones

06-22-2021, 10:47 AM

Rob, usually you can see through the cat matrix, or see light through it which would suggest free flow. If that is the case you should research another influence like timing of fuel mixture.
A quick fix is always hoped for.
jim

roadrashrob

06-22-2021, 01:54 PM

I ordered a Cobb solid up-pipe with no cat or bung, so will replace my stock one when it arrives. It was definitely seriously restricting airflow.

While I wait, I needed to pull the transmission to repair the threads in one of the mounting holes on the block. For a job that should be almost a no-brainer on this car the way the transmission is situated, I cannot for the life of me get the clutch release bearing to free from the clutch (or at least that's what it seems to be). Any suggestions? Anyone experience this before? The car hasn't even been driven yet, so I assumed the trans would pull out like butter. Was easier getting it off the 108K mile donor....

STiPWRD

06-22-2021, 03:10 PM

You should be able to pull the shaft on which the fork pivots. There's a threaded cap that needs to be removed on the driver side of the trans to access the shaft.

Are you at least able to get the trans to separate a little from the block? The trans is located on there with two big dowel pins, sometimes they seize. I usually hammer on a piece of wood to pound the trans off of the block. That and a lot of jiggling gets it to crack loose.

roadrashrob

06-22-2021, 03:30 PM

Yes, it easily separates off the dowels but then starts pulling on the clutch "fins". I've ensured the angle is as neutral as possible. Probably a good idea to just release the fork pin for now, and then I can see what's really going on.

roadrashrob

06-22-2021, 04:30 PM

OK, so I am thinking I either installed the bearing backwards, or something is just strange as it is "locked" onto the clutch. Very confusing as in the Subaru parts diagram it appears the way I installed it, but... I just looked at a Haynes manual and it shows it the other way. So looking at my attached picture 1) was it orientated in the correct direction, and 2) how do you suggest I remove it without damaging anything? The clutch and the bearing are brand new Subaru OEM, so not cheap.

149799149800

Hobby Racer

06-22-2021, 07:43 PM

You have the bearing facing the correct way. The 6 speed's bearing has a locking ring that well, locks the bearing to the clutch. It is needed because its a pull style clutch.

Usually you remove the entire clutch, flip it over and the lock ring is easily removed allowing the bearing to slide out. It can be done without removing the clutch first but its more difficult.

Why do you need to remove the bearing? Your just going to have to lock it back in place before re-installing the transmission.

roadrashrob

06-22-2021, 08:39 PM

I don’t “need” to, just assumed it would be difficult to get the forks through. I just needed to get a Heliocoil into one of the mounting holes. That’s done. So I guess I can slip the trans back on with the bearing in place?

Hobby Racer

06-22-2021, 09:06 PM

So I guess I can slip the trans back on with the bearing in place?

Yes, that would be the easiest. That is why the shift fork has the removable pivot pin, to allow removal / installation.

J R Jones

06-22-2021, 10:28 PM

I found out about the two clutch release configurations when I inquired about a Kennedy adapter for an alternative engine. Push vs pull. The distinction is not obvious to the novice from the outside, the slave cylinder pushes on either fork. Research photos revealed the inside of the bellhousing and the answer. My buddies' Subarus happen to be push type and they all have had durability issues with pivot failure and fork failure. I have not been able to identify the configuration differentiation. I assume the pull type is more durable. Is it model applications or a chronological update?

STiPWRD

06-23-2021, 06:40 AM

This video explains how to release the throw-out bearing from the pressure plate:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=91tSPXpWsBc

I typically separate the trans by pulling the fork pivot shaft, remove the trans from the block, pop the release bearing from the pressure plate and reinstall the bearing back on the trans.

This is for a pull type clutch, which came on the earlier 5 speeds. In 06-07 they may have gone to a push type. For instance, my 2010 forester has a push type clutch, which doesn't have this release bearing issue.

J R Jones

06-23-2021, 10:21 AM

That is a great video, thanks. I assume that the Subaru housing does not have a T/O bearing release port, but maybe one could add a Mitsubishi-like hole?
The snap-in feature make assembly easier.
jim

STiPWRD

06-23-2021, 10:50 AM

That is a great video, thanks. I assume that the Subaru housing does not have a T/O bearing release port, but maybe one could add a Mitsubishi-like hole?
The snap-in feature make assembly easier.
jim

Actually, there is an access port on top of the Subaru bell housing but I've never used it to separate the T/O bearing. It would probably work though.

roadrashrob

06-23-2021, 11:24 AM

This video explains how to release the throw-out bearing from the pressure plate:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=91tSPXpWsBc

EXTREMELY helpful video. I was the person he described as having fiddled with it for 2 hours first! But it will be much easier in the future.

Thank you.

STiPWRD

06-23-2021, 03:34 PM

EXTREMELY helpful video. I was the person he described as having fiddled with it for 2 hours first! But it will be much easier in the future.

Thank you.

Whenever I get stuck, my first stop is usually youtube :p, glad to help!

roadrashrob

06-23-2021, 06:49 PM

Ha! Absolutely. Problem was, every video I saw must have had a "push" clutch because it just disconnected as expected. Took the bearing off tonight and mounted it back on the transmission. Was comically easy once you know how..

roadrashrob

06-25-2021, 05:57 PM

I "attempted" to drill a simple 1/8 hole in my handbrake bracket to mount a small switch to ground the warning light when the brake is not fully disengaged. 2 Cobalt drill bits later on the drill press and not even a scratch (literally) in the bracket! WTF? Even if it's hardened steel, I still should slowly get through it. Hoping someone can enlighten me regarding the strange forces at work here... :confused:

149885

P.S. The one hole was already there. I was simply trying to drill through the other dimple.

Hobby Racer

06-25-2021, 09:09 PM

That's really weird. Drag a file across it. If it skates over it without making a mark its likely hardened. If the file bites and leaves a scratch its just regular steel.

Are your drill bits sharp?

roadrashrob

06-26-2021, 08:00 AM

Opened up 2 brand new ones.... Used cutting lubricant, and nothing... Not even the beginning of a scratch.

Scott Meyer

06-26-2021, 09:06 AM

Hey Rob,
Maybe Subaru used unobtanium?

RPGs818SNA

06-26-2021, 10:09 PM

Rob, you may find this Project Farm Drill Bits video helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xgQeSrsAXgE Toward the end he drills through tool steel with the right pressure, speed, and bit brand. In another video, he tests various cutting oils. In a third, he tests step bits in armor plate. I found them most helpful. It's dramatically reduced my drill time and bit consumption.

Good luck,
RPG

roadrashrob

06-28-2021, 06:26 AM

Very helpful. I have followed some of hi other video, but hadn't seen this one. Thanks!

roadrashrob

07-02-2021, 09:14 AM

Anyone have a single pin wiring side connector for the stock WRX Air Conditioning Compressor they don't need? I'm using mine with my Vintage Air unit, and never got that connector back from Wayne after he did the harness.

I tried iWire, but they don't have it. I can always change the connector, but the stock one is much neater.

150197

blomb11

07-02-2021, 10:16 AM

I think I have F24 A/C Compressor plug I just removed from my 07 WRX harness. Do you know if they are the same? The FSM I have says it is a single pole gray connector so possible. I could try and dig through the rats nest to see if I can find it for you.

roadrashrob

07-02-2021, 05:19 PM

I believe all the "single pin" ones are the same. That would be great!

roadrashrob

07-08-2021, 08:18 AM

Major milestone yesterday! The car drove under its own power!!

After many weeks of two steps forward one step back to get the engine running properly, with lots of help from Wayne Presley and Matt Cramer from AMP/EFI, we were able to get the car running "good enough" to drive it onto the trailer to bring to a tuner.

Now, we would have done that weeks ago had I been able to find a tuner that I felt comfortable enough with their knowledge of Subarus AND MegaSquirt. While I'm fairly confident in my "build" abilities, I felt totally overwhelmed with the learning curve involved in "tuning" a car basically from scratch. That said, we did manage to work through mechanical issues, wiring issues, upgrades to wideband O2 sensors and full oil pressure senders to get to the point you see in this video, so I definitely learned a lot so far, and with the help of the person I met yesterday, I'm more than confident the car will be tuned perfectly and I will learn a lot more in the process.

So, in a last ditch effort to find a tuner open to helping, I did a very broad Google search, called them all, with lots of folks that know Subarus but not MegaSquirt. The a gentleman by the name of Seven answered the phone at DDA tuning in Newburgh NY, and couldn't have been more excited to hear what I had. He specializes in both, but more importantly, had met Dave Smith when he was 14 and always wanted to get an 818. I put it on the trailer yesterday, brought it over to him, and as soon as I arrived knew I found the right place! He must have had about 30 WRXs there, with 12 inside the shop on lifts. Work stopped as soon as they saw the 818, and then it was like the Paparazzi taking pictures of a star. A few customers came by while we were going over the project, and couldn't praise him enough. Sometimes the stars do align! He was actually so excited to work on it that he reached out to Dave last night with the news, and Dave not only remembered him, but of course knew of our 818 since he gave us a personal tour of FFR during Covid.

DDA will put a very safe "base tune" on it for us with limits for now to keep us from hurting the engine during break in. As soon as we get it back, we can finally move on to setting ride height, alignment, properly torqueing everything down, and then proper engine break in and brake bedding...

https://youtu.be/rn9ryLV1ynA

Scott Meyer

07-08-2021, 11:09 PM

Hey Rob, I’m glad it worked out for you! The first of many stalls is now behind you (and literally as you tried to pull it up the ramps onto the trailer)!

blomb11

07-10-2021, 08:43 PM

Sorry I haven’t forgotten about the AC connector just been out of town. I will try and look tomorrow or Monday through the pile of wires.

blomb11

07-11-2021, 04:22 PM

Here is what I have for F24 A/C compressor with a single blue wire. It looks like it would plug into the connector you show in your picture. I can cut it and mail it to you because I won’t be running A/C.
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Scott Meyer

07-14-2021, 09:46 PM

Rob,

Here’s another resource for you if that doesn’t work out. Liam had to do this on one of our connectors that got damaged during the donor tearing phase:

https://www.iwireservices.com/replacement-parts-click-through

roadrashrob

07-15-2021, 07:53 AM

Thanks Scott. I had reached out to them first, but they are out of that connector with not ETA on when they will get more in.

roadrashrob

08-01-2021, 06:31 AM

OK, so now that we have the engine finally running well with a solid base tune it was time to set the ride height, align the suspension, and proceed with working out the kinks while go-karting it.

One thing that struck me as odd was that we needed to compress the springs on both the front and rear coil overs significantly more on the right side of the car. 1-1.5cm more on the right than on the left? All things considered, I would have suspected them to be relatively similar front to rear.

Any thoughts? Things I should check?

roadrashrob

11-23-2021, 11:39 AM

Wow! It's been almost 3 months since my last post. We've just been buttoning up the chassis and flushing out issues go-karting, so nothing that most of you haven't been through already. Wasn't much to really share that you haven all seen numerous times before.

Given I mounted the ECU on the inside of the rear firewall, I did have fun fabricating a cover for it. Given my knowledge of ECUs, let alone MegaSquirt coming into this project, it might as well have been an actual Flux Capacitor! :o 156860

I ran all the plumbing for the AWIC and Vintage Air as well. Mounted the condenser and radiator for the AWIC using a combination of the brackets from ZDB with my own added mods. Took a couple attempts to get everything mounted where it played nice together, but happy with how it turned out.
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So Brakes are bed in and bias set, no leaks, clutch, bell crank and shifter all adjusted perfectly with some help from Craig at ZDB, steering is nice an tight and responsive, so (almost) all systems good and ready to start on the body. 156864

I say almost as we have one engine problem I have been trying to diagnose. We appear to be getting fuel INTO the oil, and I'm struggling to diagnose the source. I have seen it once earlier when a rubber plug got stuck up inside the intake and I tried starting it without noticing it. "Assumed" the strong vacuum, and lack of ignition just flooded the cylinders. But now it seems to be occurring again. All research points to somehow excess fuel being dumped into the cylinders. In troubleshooting I have done the following so far.

1) Checked the fuel pressure to the rails. Seemed good but I also
2) Replaced the fuel pressure regulator just to eliminate any possible issues with it. With engine running, it's steady at 43psi, and with vacuum it increases appropriately. With just the ignition turned on, but engine not running, it's at 33psi, and holds that long (30 minutes+) after the ignition is turned off. Doesn't indicate a "leaky" injector.
3) One by one disabled the coils on each cylinder, and saw the RPM drop slightly and an increase in the Air/Fuel ratio, so I know I'm getting good spark and burning off all injected fuel.
4) Since the last oil change, I have not run the engine, but repeatedly engage the fuel pump. I've seen no increase in oil level doing that.

I should add that I upgraded to a brand new AEM340 fuel pump, and Injector Dynamics 1050X injectors before first start of the engine. The car was given a good base tune around that and runs very nicely.

Any thoughts on how to proceed with troubleshooting?

Bob_n_Cincy

11-23-2021, 01:19 PM

We appear to be getting fuel INTO the oil,

Rob, Last month I had fuel in oil problem on a GM 3.0L V6 Direct inject engine. The Seal on the mechanical High-pressure fuel pump was leaking fuel into the crankcase.
I was getting a "RICH" fault as the PVC system was pulling fuel vapors out of the oil into the intake.

On our Subaru engines, I only see 3 ways the fuel could make it into the oil.
1. leaky injector when the engine isn't running. Fuel running past rings.
2. Cylinder not firing when the engine is running. Fuel running past rings.
3. Bad diagram in fuel pressure regulator putting a lot of extra fuel in one cylinder causing it to misfire and fill with fuel.

Does anyone else have Ideas?
Bob

roadrashrob

11-23-2021, 02:33 PM

Thanks Bob. Hoping I eliminated the chances of #3 with the new regulator.

Wayne Presley also suggested the possibility that it may be running too rich. I did have a base tune put on it, and I see a good A/F ratio at idle, but haven't tracked it during go-karting under load at slightly higher RPMs. Will go-kart this week again with computer connected and data logging and then look through the logs.

Keep the suggestions coming. I'd like to move on to body fitment with any open mechanical issues lingering!

roadrashrob

12-23-2021, 09:12 AM

So, as with many as I start on mounting the body panels, I'm starting to see the challenge of getting everything to line up to my level of satisfaction. Have just resigned myself to the fact that I will need to take my time and do the best I can with what we have to work with. No need for me to post body fitment shots as you have all been there already.

As a distraction, I was able to get my LED lights in the headlight buckets to switchback and sequence. While others have done a more impressive job, this was achieved with a couple off the shelf products. My hope is very little maintenance / chance of failure over the long haul.

https://youtu.be/Ok4NcuZp-ro

The switchback modules I used were: https://www.diodedynamics.com/s1-switchback-module-pair.html

And the Sequence was this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GBD59JY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
The only had 3 output channels, but I traded off the 4th light for simplicity.

roadrashrob

12-27-2021, 03:14 PM

Working through mounting the body panels and I could use some help / advice on the front fenders, particularly the front lower mounts. The manual says to "Attach the lower nose support to the radiator/nose mount using 5/16” x ¾” carriage bolts and washers and locknuts. Set the height so that the bottom of the inside nose mount is flush with the bottom of the chassis." If I drop mine all the way to the lowest position, I'm still about 1/4" above the bottom of the chassis. Seems odd I would need to go to the limit of the slots? Anyone else have that problem?

Also, assuming I need to "pull" the fenders back to align the rear of the fender and the front of the door as seen by the two yellow "alignment lines" in this photo?
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roadrashrob

01-02-2022, 11:31 AM

As we prepared to begin on the body panels prior to the holidays, the prospect of bending over and being on my knees in the garage was not very appealing. To that end we decided to go out and get a medium height scissor lift for the garage, and it has been a life changer! I was pleasantly surprised at the quality of the AMGO lift we got for the price.
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For the body fitment, I read the sticky note on the body thread, and read a LOT of user posts trying to come up with an approach. There are so many different opinions, approaches and info out there that I think it somewhat confused us more than it helped. In the end, (and with a lot of mental therapy support from Scott Meyer to help me not over-think things) we decided we just had to work in small steps. First thing we did is just hung the side sails with 3/16" Clecos back through the factory screw holes. Tons of advice NOT to do that, but the sails seemed to fit perfectly there with the alignment to the front firewall, so we stuck with it assuming we would re-position as needed. From there we fastened the lower rear of the front fenders, as that line needs to be clean and had a solid fixed point. With both fenders pinned in the rear with Clecos, I mated the front grill per the manual. I found I needed to build up the tabs on the rear of the grill with glass tape to get a more solid mounting point. With the grill attached and some 3D thinking, we were able to get the hood aligned and everything square and centered. Sounds simple, but that was about 3 days of trial and error with the everything being adjusted and re-adjusted countless times. In the end, we are very happy with the fit and now major modifications needed.
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Feeling good, we decided to move onto seeing how the hard top fit. My initial reaction was no way will it ever meet nicely with the A-pillar! Struggled with how to approach that for a day or two, but then decided to remove the front fender assemble, and see how the rest of it fit. To our surprise based on everyone else's experience, it practically dropped right into place, aligning all the way around, and perfectly square.
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So our approach, likely different from others, is that since we are happy with the nose and happy with the firewall back, we will simply work on getting the front fenders nicely mated into the A-pillar.

Any of you more experienced people see a problem with that approach? Anything in the photos jump out as causing a future problem??

I will say that having the lift has really helped with the Coupe version as removing the top is a one man job! :-)

https://youtu.be/DKXUiXYQL-c

sgarrett

01-02-2022, 07:48 PM

Congrats on getting an initial alignment! I started at the same place you did and was initially ecstatic. But then I had to add the doors. That caused me to have to shift everything around. In the end, it was best for me to do them in this order:

1. Side panels
2. Rear panel
3. Roof
4. Doors
4.5 Adjust the heck out of 1-4
5. Front Fenders
6. Front panel
7. Hood
7.5 adjust the heck out of 5-7

Nothing was actually locked down at any point during my fitting because every time I went to add a new piece I needed to adjust the ones that went before it. Eventually I started over leaving everything loose and found a position where everything could co-exist, then I locked them down.

It is very easy to get a couple of pieces to line up. But until everything is on there, it is an exercise in patience to get multiple pieces lined up at the same time. Especially the doors. I just kept telling myself that eventually things would fit and resisted the urge to do any major cutting of anything. You will find with the doors that the side pieces might look like they are lined up, but if there is a twist in them then the door literally will not fit in any position. You need to play with pushing the bottom of the side piece in and out along the bottom.

and, if you haven't discovered it yet, you will find that the two front fenders are different lengths, so no matter how hard you try they won't both fit the same way....unless you do some major modifications.

Ajzride

01-03-2022, 09:48 AM

Doors to sail panels have to be done pretty early on in the process, one of the hardest parts to modify to fit right.

roadrashrob

01-03-2022, 10:05 AM

Thank you both! Very helpful and exactly the guidance I was looking for. Just didn't want to go far down the wrong path. This really helps.

If anyone else has any tips / tricks, keep them coming!

fletch

01-04-2022, 11:33 PM

roadrashrob

01-05-2022, 11:06 AM

Congrats on the initial fit. Ours was much more painful. That may have been caused by my impatience or the fact that we've got chassis #21 and sideslips + rear bumper from that era, plus a slightly newer hardtop and brand-spanking-new front fenders and hood. Nothing went together easily for us and we've got lots of fiberglass work left to make it look presentable. OK, enough of my complaining... back to the point.

I'm glad things went together well for you. Best wishes for continued good fortune with the rest of the exterior fit-up.

Thanks Fletch! When reading the various threads around boy install, there was definitely a difference between those early kits and the later ones. Not that FFR did a great job, but at least some major issues seem better.

Will work on the doors next, so let's see how that adventure goes.

roadrashrob

04-19-2022, 10:34 AM

Well, long time without a post. Family vacation, Spring yardwork, and life in general slowed things down for a bit. Mainly wanted to finish up forward of the firewall, and the AWIC and rest of the engine compartment before mounting the body and moving on to the doors. The AWIC was fairly straight forward, but required a bit of imagination to get all the "plumbing" routed effectively and visually appealing! In the end I'm happy with the reults and it seems to be funtioning nicely.

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Only thing remaining on the engine is to update the fuel tables on the ECU. It is still running WAY rich from the base tune, and I didn't want to adjust it until the AWIC was fully setup.

For door fitment, I ended up routing the door catches into the side sails. While they flush mount on the WRX, routing them on the 818 makes for a much nicer mating with the door shell. (IMHO)
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roadrashrob

01-03-2025, 05:58 PM

Hey everyone. After a 2+ year gap consumed by college applications, tours, test, etc... for our two chilren, I finally got back to the 818 over the Holiday as my son is home from college for a few weeks. The initial goal of the 818 "project" was to provide us a father-son project, and also hopefully add to his resume for College. I'm happy to say he is now a freshman studying Mechanical Engineering Tech at Rochester Institute of Technology (RIT), so both goals accomplished.

We had petered out as the body fitting was underway, and now that is where I am picking up. The dreaded "A" pillar on the Coupe. Anyone have any pictures, suggestions, etc. on how you handled the A pillar to door intersection? I'm not even going to attempt the hood yet until I have the windshield back fitted nicely. I don't plan on using the Subaru mirrors, so I also want to fill that gap and hopefully create a much better transition. Just looking for ideas on how others have handled it.

Glad to be back!

-Rob

Mark Eaton

01-03-2025, 11:49 PM

Rob,

Good to have you back! We're in a similar situation. Nick is a freshman at UNM studying business. I have been drudging along with our 818. getting ready to post soon on my progress with the doors which have been very challenging

Mark

FFRWRX

01-04-2025, 01:11 PM

We had petered out as the body fitting was underway, and now that is where I am picking up. The dreaded "A" pillar on the Coupe. Anyone have any pictures, suggestions, etc. on how you handled the A pillar to door intersection? I'm not even going to attempt the hood yet until I have the windshield back fitted nicely. I don't plan on using the Subaru mirrors, so I also want to fill that gap and hopefully create a much better transition. Just looking for ideas on how others have handled it.

Glad to be back!

-Rob

Look at post 156 to see what I did. There are also some details (scattered around my build thread) on the mirror mount to help tidy things up in that area.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?36585-The-Bolton-Build-818C/page4

Rick