Windshield install - yes I know another one...

[Rockon]

So I have read all the posts about;
- where to cut
- measuring the angle
- threaded hole vs not
- quick release brackets or not (this is like a debate on which blue...)

So before I go tweak my windshield and regret it, here is what I see when I try to even test fit it with the body off.
The posts (with windshield assembled) seems to rotate outward (at least on one side) so even if I use Jeff K's advice on taking PS to frame support and shim PS, it doesn't create a flush scenario.

If I adjust one side to be flush then the opposite side is about 1/4" off (which would be OK using a shim I guess) but it IS NOT parallel with the frame support when looking down along the post to frame.
The forward part of the post rotates out counterclockwise like ""
So I feel even with shims this creates a stress point as I try to bolt this down.

It's like I need to bend/rotate the bottom of the post (from the rubber seal) clockwise about 1/4"
Seems if was able to do this and bend just the lower portion of the post, that would allow the windshield be "as is" and stay in an unstressed state.

Hope this makes sense and wondering outside of the shim scenario if this is also something people have dealt with.

[Todd Baumann]

Are or did you trim your windsheild post screws when you attached them to the windshield?
if you do not check the engagement on these as you are assembling them they can be too long.
If they are they can be too close to the edge of the glass and only need a small amount of movement to contact and break the glass.

[GWL]

I had to do a lot of fitting with the windshield on and off at least 15 times. (I had other issues at the top of the windshield) I was able to get everything to fit flush without shims by twisting just where it goes into the body to get it to fit flush at the correct angle. I used a bench vice protected with some wood shims and a Crescent wrench to twist it. To avoid having to use shims I was able to get the passenger side to make a slight 'S', in the flat section, where it goes into the body opening. I, however, have not read of anyone else doing this, so you should probably accept the use of shims once you've twisted it enough to be flush.

You do have to be careful with those brass side screws that screw into the brass piece set into the screen frame. I had mine on and off many times without a problem. Just take your time and work them in as you work with and feel the tension of the screw.

Also consider taping the lower part of the brass side uprights as it makes mounting the side posts to the chassis much easier.

George

[phileas_fogg]

Like George, I used a bench vise & crescent wrench to twist the arms (wrapped in shop rags for protection) such that they fit properly. I didn't try to get an "s" into the arm, but used various washers as shims. Drilling & tapping the posts made getting the washers into place MUCH easier.


John

[rich grsc]

Are or did you trim your windsheild post screws when you attached them to the windshield?
if you do not check the engagement on these as you are assembling them they can be too long.
If they are they can be too close to the edge of the glass and only need a small amount of movement to contact and break the glass.

Sorry that is incorrect info, there is no way for the side screws to contact the glass. There is aluminum frame between the glass, and the brass strip the screws thread into. So unless the screws were so long they drilled through the frame member, no contact will happen.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Rich is correct.

Jeff

[Todd Baumann]

If the screw is to long yes it can contact the frame and will or has the potential to cause a pressure point or something like a stress riser. Then with the mis-alignment of the arms it only compounds the pressures and problem.

[CraigS]

It is completely normal to need to both twist and bend the mount posts. this is how I like to start out.
https://live.staticflickr.com/7859/46798420254_f595120022_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2eiq8UJ)20190402_092159 (https://flic.kr/p/2eiq8UJ) by craig stuard (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152454123@N04/), on Flickr
I have never tried to actually measure to confirm but, to my eyes, the mount surfaces on the frame seem to be parallel to each other if you look down from above or from the front so that is how the arms need to end up. Use shims to get the width correct. You want the windshield glass to have absolutely no twist or bending stress on it when the bolts are tight. I like the tap the posts idea but, if you don't want to buy a tap for one use, just throw out the metallic locking nuts. Buy 8 standard nuts. This way you can do all your test fitting w/ 4 of those nuts and do 95% of the tightening by hand w/ maybe a 1/2 turn on each w/ a wrench. Of course your final tightening may need another turn or so w/ a wrench, than run the extra nuts on as jam nuts.

[Rockon]

Thank folks... I figured as much that is was the usual tweak, fit, remove,... redo until needed but wanted to make sure before I started twisting :)
Will close out the post if successful.

Thanks

[AC Bill]

You have to admit though, a fellow looking through old threads on this matter, especially the FFCars forum, would be led to believe the post screws do reach the glass. I know back when I built mine, a common belief was they were what caused the cracked glass issues.
I think they even covered that aspect on a video that was made, Not sure if it was done at MOTT, or?, but they showed grinding the screws shorter, until they threaded in without meeting any resistance. Then using some lock-tite as a back up on them, as by then they were so short..

.