Can't get code reader to connect - Solved

[Kool AC]

After a successful first start on Saturday the MIL lit up and stayed on. I fully expected this. Wanting to see what codes were set I purchased a Innova 5110 code reader. When I plug it in the OBD2 connector it powers up and the "link icon" flashes for a few seconds then gives me an "error" text on the screen as it was unable to link up to the on board computer. I get the same result with the ignition in the off or the start position. Thinking it might be a fault with the reader I plugged it into my 2018 Silverado and it immediately linked and reported "0 DTC" codes, so the reader seams to be working fine. I checked all the fuses in the coyote fuse box and all is good. I have the Gen 3 Coyote crate motor and computer purchased from Mike Forte. Would be glad to hear if anyone has any ideas to help solve my predicament.

Thanks,
Doug

[BradCraig]

You'll have three codes assuming you have not gotten a tune, see pic.136822

I can't speak to the Innova, but the BlueDriver ProScan works great.

[Joel Hauser]

You probably already tried this 50 times, so I apologize for stating what may be obvious. The online manual says, "If Error is shown on the Code Reader’s LCD display, it indicates there is a communication problem. (Duh!) This means that the Code Reader is unable to communicate with the vehicle's computer. Do the following: - Turn the ignition key off, wait 5 seconds and turn the key back on to reset the computer. - Make sure your vehicle is OBD2 compliant." https://csr.innova.com/Content/Manual/Innova/20200107_5110_Manual_E_Version_Final.pdf
Good luck

[Kool AC]

Yeah Joel, read through the online manual several times looking for a solution. Tried what they suggested many times but still no go.

[edwardb]

I've used three different scanners with my Gen 2 and Gen 3 Coyotes. From cheapest part store version to the nGuage from Lund Racing. All read successfully. The ODB2 port always has power, so the scanner will light up when initially plugged in. So an error message at that stage is normal and same as my experience. But as soon as you turn the key on, it should communicate and start showing codes or whatever. Mine haven't missed. Only thing I can suggest is make sure the plug is fully seated. Mine have been a little stubborn sometimes. There's a diagram of the wires in the ODB2 port in the Ford Performance instructions. There aren't many actually. Maybe a quick check to make sure all are present. I know that's not much help. Sorry.

[first time builder]

check the wires at the back of the OBD port to make sure they didnt dislodge when you installed the harness. (or ford left one loose)

[frankeeski]

Would be glad to hear if anyone has any ideas to help solve my predicament.

Thanks,
Doug

I have used my BlueDriver OBD scanner on a half a dozen Ford crate engines. The last one I did was a Gen 3 Coyote and the car started and ran, no issues. Wanted a second reading on the water temp so I plugged in the BlueDriver and it would not connect. Now, the BlueDriver works a little different since it's an app based scanner. Wanting to confirm I connected to the another car in the driveway, a 2007 Chevy that had never been connected to the BlueDriver. It failed to connect there as well. Every other car I connected it to, onsite, worked just fine. On a hunch, I decided to connect the BlueDriver to the internet online update and downloaded the latest software/firmware for the module and the app. Plugged it back into the Coyote crate engine and it connected immediately. Check to see if your code reader is able to be updated and if so, update it.

[Kool AC]

After checking continuity between the OBDII connector and the 90 pin connector that plugs into the ECM and finding no continuity I unwrapped the harness and found the two can bus wires snipped. It looks like when I dieted out the EPAS wires and intercooler pump & ambient air temp connectors I inadvertently cut these two can bus wires by mistake. What a bonehead! So the good news is after splicing the wires back in I can get the code reader to link up. The other good news is that no trouble codes are detected.
When I wired the dash I replaced the Coyote MIL with an aftermarket led which stays on all the time when the ignition switch is on and/or the engine running. When I wired in the original MIL from the Coyote harness it is only illuminated very dimly with the engine running which I have read in other posts is normal. I would like to find an led or light that functions the same as the Coyote MIL and not have to put the Coyote mil in the dash as it is rather large and unsightly.137158

[edwardb]

Glad you got it sorted. It happens... Good news on no codes. That's what you want! It's normal for the LED to glow slightly. There's low voltage on that line all the time. Of course it should be much brighter if actually triggered and full voltage applied. I suspect yours would be much brighter as well. But LED's have different forward voltages and sounds like the one you have might be lower than the Ford one. I had the same issue with the Watson's Streetworks LED I used in my Coupe. Especially noticeable with the closed top and no sun to wash it out. I played around with some resistors and toned it down some. I couldn't get it to go completely out. When that low, it didn't light adequately when actually triggered. There are lots of articles about using resistors to tone down LED's. I don't claim to be an EE. I read as much as I could and then experimented with a bunch of different values.