Alternator wiring

[IowaBen]

Sanity check:

It seems I have a 1 wire alternator, and my RF harness has a couple plugs on it. Stripping back the loom, it's just a red wire that splits to 3 and a brown wire. A later version of the instructions for the wiring harness than what I have (T vs. N) says to attach the red to the post, and don't use the brown. That's what needs to happen here, correct?

136596
136595
136597

Thanks,
Ben

[CraigS]

Yes. And depending how long the wire is, you may want to cut back to the single wire which will make the eye on the end easier to attach.

[GoDadGo]

Yes. And depending on how long the wire is, you may want to cut back to the single wire which will make the eye on the end easier to attach.

I did the same thing as Craig.

I peeled the loom back, cut off the pigtails, and then reattached a longer piece of the same gauge wire.
The single wire alternator really will give you a cleaner look under the hood.
I all of my wires under my Air-Gap style Weinand Team-G intake.
All wires are inside plastic protective looms to keep it all clean and protected.

[CFranks]

I initially did what folks above said and it worked fine (I also have a 1-wire). My alternator recently blew so I took the opportunity to upgrade my wiring when I replaced it (I stuck with another 1-wire). Instead of using the RF alternator wiring, which is 10 gauge (on the edge of what it should be) and unfused (at least that's the way it was in my circa 2014 RF harness), I used the breeze fused charge cable kit. It abandons the RF harness and takes an 8 gauge through a mega-fuse holder then straight down to the starter solenoid. Much shorter run, thicker gauge and now it's fused for protection.

Many have used the stock with no issue so not required, but an extra level of safety.

https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/fused-alternator-charge-cable-kit/