Just Purchased Mk4 base Kit / 97 cobra donor advice

[Morrisett]

Hi, I am a newbie to the forum and to the factory five mk4 build. I purchased a mk4 Kit a few weeks ago which is due to arrive at the beginning of the year. I had previously purchased a donor 97 cobra with 114k miles on it. It’s a 2 owner car, and the last owner had owned it 20 years but only put 60k over that time. The last 7 years it’s been only driven once a month to keep it in good running condition... (garage kept). It’s a very clean car and drives nice so I hoping I picked a good one for a donor? Thoughts / opinions?
I am looking for advice and what others have learned by doing similar builds... Potential pitfalls or areas of difficulty that weren’t expected. I am beginning to do a lot of reading on the forums and will continue to dig a find out as much information I can before I get started but I would appreciate the advice anyone wants to lend.

Build plan-
Mk4 base kit
Upgrades
-powder coated chassis
-Body cut outs
-front lowers control arms
-94-04 steering kit
- 4 post battery cut off
-94-04 donor install components
-ffr gps gauge set
-17x9 halibrand wheels
-mk4 stainless bumper kit

Donor- 97 cobra 114k miles
Manuel 5 speed
Plan on art at wirediet doing the factory harness diet and integrating ez 20 circuit
Plan on but open to recommendations (deleting egr, pats, secondary o2s, evap canister)
Plan on abandoning abs, Trac control, cruise
Plan on using as many donor parts as possible - Engine, trans, fuel tank and pump, radiator & fans, rear end, other misc..
Not sure on adding any accessories currently

A few current Questions- 1. does the 97 rear end need to be shortened to look and functioning correctly in the mk4? 2. Ok to use the donor spindles? 3. halibrand wheels clear the large cobra rotors? 4. Delete imrc on engine? 5. Planning on re-gearing rear end... recommended ratio?

About me-
I am 35, live in Houston, have a wonderful wife (Supports this endeavor) 2 girls (older one is eager to help with the build), and own a home building / remodel company. I’ve always enjoyed working with my hands, working on other vehicles and restoring old jeeps, military 6x6 and just general fabrication. I don’t mind problem solving and searching for answers and finding new creative solutions... kinda the enjoyment of building to me.

I would really appreciate any of you guys knowledge you care to share (big or small) and look forward to becoming a part of this network and build community!

-Philip

[edwardb]

Welcome and congratulations! Couple of responses/recommendations: Yes, your SN95 axle will work with the right parts. Richard Oben at North Racecars is often cited as a source for the necessary parts to modify it. You don't say, but hopefully you're planning 3-link versus 4-link. Looks like your stock rear diff is 3.27? Probably that would work depending on your expectations plus how you're going to use the car. 3.55 is the most common ratio. But there are a number of variables. I highly recommend the Factory Five 2-piece spindles over your donor spindles. I've had both the difference in how they set up and drive is significant.

[Joel Hauser]

I built a roadster using a 1996 donor and the basic kit.

I did not use the Halibrand wheels; I used the wheels from the mustang to save a little money. I thought they sat a little to deep in the wheel wells, so after a couple years I purchase 1.25" concentric spacers. I think it looks better with the wheels pushed out. You might want to consider purchasing new rear spring. After 20 years and 100,000, they may be a little soft. Mine were.

I used the stock spindles and stock front lower control arms. No problem at all. I used the stock transmission, brakes ,rear axle, upper and lower rear control arms and shocks. I did not make any changes to them other than change the oil. They all fit and worked fine. I had to change the speedo drive to match the dolphin speedo.

I purchased headers from FFR. I don't know if they are still available from them. You can probably use short headers from BBK and the FFR J pipes
Things I did not use: CATS, EGR, charcoal canister power, power brakes or ABS, power steering. My donor was a POS, and none of those things were working. I did not use the mustang gauges, although I tried; they did not work. I purchased some from a place in Florida called dolphingauges.com. I think they look good, and are less expensive than others. I had to buy a new steering rack form FFR because the power steering rack is just too hard to turn without power.

I used the mustang wire harnesses including the fuse box. It is tedious and time consuming, but can be done. If you buy a harness from Ron Francis or FFR, make sure it includes the engine harness before you throw the original out. I don't think the engine harness is included, but I might be wrong.

I rebuilt the donor motor; in my case it was necessary. I had never before built a V8, so it was a fun experience. Harbor Freight has an inexpensive engine stand which worked just fine. I also used their engine hoist, but had to extend the beam farther than recommended; don't tell anyone.

Without power brakes and steering, you have to exert a lot more effort, but I think it adds to the fun of it.

If you have any questions, you can PM me. Good luck with your build. It will be fun.
Joel

[Peeker]

Congratulations. I bought mine and it was partially built when I got it. Very similar to yours. My donor is/was a 1996 Cobra. It was also a basic kit. Art did the wirediet and he used the EZ wire wiring harness. I was going to attempt to use the donor radiator fan but after I mounted it and go karted around, I don’t like the way it was attached and was not sure it would hold up. I do have the FFR radiator and just ordered the breeze radiator shroud. I’ve talked with someone who has built numerous kits and he said he uses it on all of his builds. I fabricated the top and bottom supports similar to Breezes setup. I’m getting my axles from Richard Oben this week. He only lives 30 min from me so I had Richard come out and do some of my wiring. Well worth the money since I’m not an electrician. The previous owner had already had the power brakes and power steering setup. So far, I’m glad I have that and if you’ve got that with your donor, I’d use it. Again, I didn’t build a lot of mine, but if you need pics of how I did things like the air intake, let me know and I’ll send them your way.

[CraigS]

Welcome to a new world that will be a ton of fun. My recommendation is look carefully at what you will use from the donor. You may find it would be better to sell it and buy just the parts you need from a salvage yard. Since you are in a major metro area, look for local Mustang clubs to see what those guys are selling. Could be you will come across a nice 302 and T-5 there. Heck you probably have a year before you need the engine/trans.

[cfriedman67]

I have a a 97 cobra engine as well. If I was to do it again I would buy new. With that being said some of things I learned are the following. I had my engine harness stripped down by Art Cuesta at wirediet.com. (same as Peeker above) expensive but worth it if electrical is not your thing. I also used the FFR radiator as well as the Breeze automotive radiator shroud and bottom support. For brakes I rebuilt the mustang 13 inch fronts and used Wilwoods in the rear from Gordon Levy who is also a vendor on this site. Last, for the emergency brake I was never able to it to engage correctly but I know many people have used it. I went and purchased one from FFR and worked great.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Welcome and congratulations! Couple of responses/recommendations: Yes, your S197 axle is too wide. Richard Oben at North Racecars is often cited as a source for the necessary parts to modify it. You don't say, but hopefully you're planning 3-link versus 4-link. Looks like your stock rear diff is 3.27? Probably that would work depending on your expectations plus how you're going to use the car. 3.55 is the most common ratio. But there are a number of variables. I highly recommend the Factory Five 2-piece spindles over your donor spindles. I've had both the difference in how they set up and drive is significant.

A bit of clarification is necessary here; your 1997 is an SN95, not S197 platform and in fact the rear end WILL work but you need to be aware of a couple of things. You mentioned the 17 x 9 Halibrands---with those on the back the rear end can be used as is however if you run the 17 x 10.5 Halibrands the axle shafts need to be changed and the calipers relocated with parts from Richard as mentioned. The 9" rear rims will limit you to a maximum of 275/40-17 tire whereas you can run a wider 315/35-17 on the 10.5" rim. That comes down to personal preference and budget. As far as rear end ratio your 1997 will have either a 2.73 or 3.08 (3.27 was only used in the automatics). Your T-45 trans has a 3.37 first gear and .67 fifth which will work well with a 3.55 in the rear end. First will be a little short but not overly so. Paul (edwardb) mentioned 3 or 4 link---I don't see any options related to the rear suspension in your list. I strongly recommend the 3 link but if you're sticking to the 4 link at least go for the rear coilovers. Front spindles? Yes, I completely agree that the FFR proprietary ones are superior...the post 1995 SN95 versions that your 1997 donor car has are workable but are the least desirable choice both in terms of geometry, bump steer and due to their width tire fitment. Whatever you do keep your power steering so that you can run more positive caster which will help with all 3 of these issues.

As you can see we'll be happy to spend your money on options &/or upgrades but in the end it's your dollars and your choices! Good luck with your build :)

Jeff

[Joecobr]

I used a ‘98 Cobra as a donor. I also had Art diet my harness and made all the deletions you list...highly recommended if your state allows it. You will be amazed at how little wiring is left and how easy it is to tie into the Ron Francis or other. Heed the advice on the front spindles. I used a set of 1995 spindles which have the dog leg arm, not quite as good as the FFR units but far better than the ‘98 or ‘97 spindles. My gas tank looked new on the outside but I couldn’t get by the flash rusting on the interior so I bought a new one (cheap). I bought a nice new aluminum OEM style rad but later realized it is not a very good fit. The angle is different from the FFR one and I had to fabricate attachment points at each corner to accept the OEM rubber mounts. Turned out nice in the end but a lot of unnecessary work. I also had to make new cowl panels (see photo). I went with a Lincoln MKVIII IRS rear end. The pumpkin is aluminum with 3.27 gears.
136511

[edwardb]

A bit of clarification is necessary here; your 1997 is an SN95, not S197 platform and in fact the rear end WILL work but you need to be aware of a couple of things...

Thanks for the correction Jeff. Sorry for the bad info. Fixed my post. I really do know which Mustangs came from which year... But you'd think I'd learn my lesson posting before my morning coffee... :(

[Joecobr]

Couple more answers to your questions...I used the stock Cobra front brakes and the 17” Halibrands...fit fine. I did not remove the IMRC on my engine. Read as much as I could on it. It fundamentally alters the performance of the engine on the low end and I simply didn’t want to deal with issues later on. It is a great performing engine in stock form. Advise retaining the power steering / power brakes that comes with Cobra. It gets pretty busy in the front DS of the engine, precisely where the steering shaft comes through, but it can be managed with some good flex hose work.

[Morrisett]

Thanks for the advice guys.
Sounds like the ffr spindles are a valuable upgrade so I’ll plan on adding that to the kit.
On the rear suspension I planned on using the donor suspension but that sounds like a poor decision. I don’t think I have it in the budget for the 3-link or irs setup but do you think it’s worth the expense to go with the ffr upgraded 4 link and coilovers?
I think I’ll go ahead and add the ffr radiator kit to avoid the other issues some of you ran into and go for the cleaner install.
Since this will primarily be a street driven car (maybe a few times at a local track) I am ok sticking with the 17x9 wheels which Sounds like It will allow me to reuse the donor rear end with modified gear (possibly 3.55). Any of you go with a lower gear? I know these engines like the higher rpm range.
I’ll plan on retaining all the hydro boost brakes and donor power steering.
Fuel tank tbd depending on condition of the donor once uninstalled.

Did any of you have problems mounting the j-pipe and side exhaust? Seems like this has been a issue for some. Is the idea that you reuse the stock factory exhaust manifolds (Reversing) and tie that into the j-pipe?

Has anyone used a more reasonable gauge set that is period correct or is the ffr gps set the way to go... trying to finding some savings to put towards some of the other upgrades that have been mentioned.

Regarding the 4.6 mod engine do any of you recommend any special maintenance or upgrades while it’s out of the car? It runs great but interested in what others did with a similar build plan.

Thanks for all the info thus far.

[CraigS]

RE; rear axle. To change the gears the axles need to be removed and reinstalled. So no extra labor to go to shorter axles. Just the price of the axles and caliper relocate brackets.

[Peeker]

The 4.6 L engine did have some issues with cooling. There are plenty of articles regarding how to do this. It was done on mine before I got it but with the engine out, it should be fairly simple to do. I believe it’s the #8 piston does not get very good circulation and the mod involves opening one of the water jackets, and connecting a coolant line. Again, I didn’t do it myself, I inherited mine.

[walt mckenna]

Thanks for the advice guys.
Sounds like the ffr spindles are a valuable upgrade so I’ll plan on adding that to the kit.
On the rear suspension I planned on using the donor suspension but that sounds like a poor decision. I don’t think I have it in the budget for the 3-link or irs setup but do you think it’s worth the expense to go with the ffr upgraded 4 link and coilovers?
I think I’ll go ahead and add the ffr radiator kit to avoid the other issues some of you ran into and go for the cleaner install.
Since this will primarily be a street driven car (maybe a few times at a local track) I am ok sticking with the 17x9 wheels which Sounds like It will allow me to reuse the donor rear end with modified gear (possibly 3.55). Any of you go with a lower gear? I know these engines like the higher rpm range.
I’ll plan on retaining all the hydro boost brakes and donor power steering.
Fuel tank tbd depending on condition of the donor once uninstalled.

Did any of you have problems mounting the j-pipe and side exhaust? Seems like this has been a issue for some. Is the idea that you reuse the stock factory exhaust manifolds (Reversing) and tie that into the j-pipe?

Has anyone used a more reasonable gauge set that is period correct or is the ffr gps set the way to go... trying to finding some savings to put towards some of the other upgrades that have been mentioned.

Regarding the 4.6 mod engine do any of you recommend any special maintenance or upgrades while it’s out of the car? It runs great but interested in what others did with a similar build plan.

Thanks for all the info thus far.

I have never drive a FFR Roadster with four link, so cannot comment, but I have no regrets with the three link.

I have been very happy with the 17x9"s and they fit well with the wider rear. The 275's are also easier to adjust for understeer then the 315's, depending on the size of the fronts.

I recommend 3:55's for the rear. The .67 fifth gear is similar in ratio to the TKO600 and provides a good compromise for road and track. I would not go with a higher numerical ratio; you just don't need it and you will not like it for cruising.

Reverse your stock manifolds and you are set to go. I have since changed to CATS, but had no problem mating the provided J pipes to the side pipes.

No need to make any mods to that engine. The factory tune is sufficient to provide plenty of power with driveable manners and reliable performance.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Thanks for the advice guys.
Sounds like the ffr spindles are a valuable upgrade so I’ll plan on adding that to the kit.
On the rear suspension I planned on using the donor suspension but that sounds like a poor decision. I don’t think I have it in the budget for the 3-link or irs setup but do you think it’s worth the expense to go with the ffr upgraded 4 link and coilovers?
I think I’ll go ahead and add the ffr radiator kit to avoid the other issues some of you ran into and go for the cleaner install.
Since this will primarily be a street driven car (maybe a few times at a local track) I am ok sticking with the 17x9 wheels which Sounds like It will allow me to reuse the donor rear end with modified gear (possibly 3.55). Any of you go with a lower gear? I know these engines like the higher rpm range.
I’ll plan on retaining all the hydro boost brakes and donor power steering.
Fuel tank tbd depending on condition of the donor once uninstalled.

Did any of you have problems mounting the j-pipe and side exhaust? Seems like this has been a issue for some. Is the idea that you reuse the stock factory exhaust manifolds (Reversing) and tie that into the j-pipe?

Has anyone used a more reasonable gauge set that is period correct or is the ffr gps set the way to go... trying to finding some savings to put towards some of the other upgrades that have been mentioned.

Regarding the 4.6 mod engine do any of you recommend any special maintenance or upgrades while it’s out of the car? It runs great but interested in what others did with a similar build plan.

Thanks for all the info thus far.

RE: rear suspension; I strongly encourage you to go for the FFR 4 link package at a minimum. Quite simply, the cut Mustang coil springs and donor upper & lower arms just don't work well. If it's a money issue delete those stainless steel bumpers from the order and put that money towards the suspension package. You can add bumpers later---trust me on this ;) As for axle ratio, as I mentioned in my earlier reply I think 3.55 is the best compromise. Yes, the 4.6 engines are a little soft at low RPM and like to wind up but I think even stepping up to a 3.73 with the 3.35 first gear ratio will make it so short that it will have you grabbing for second gear before crossing an intersection! Hydroboost brakes and PS will work well...you didn't mention it in your list of options but if you aren't already aware you'll need to order the #16777 rack adapter and tie rods package for use with your 1997 rack. J-pipes are restrictive and can be kind of tedious to get positioned correctly but are workable.

Again, congrats and good luck!

Jeff

[Morrisett]

Thanks Jeff,
I did delete the bumper add ons but that kinda was a wash with the upgraded front spindles.
I'll stick with the 3.55 gearing.
Rack adapter is included in with original kit order

Ok, question on rear end again. I did a quick search it looks like I can get the rear end of a 2015+ IRS (with 3.55's) for somewhere in the $750-1500 range. Am I assuming correctly you still have to buy the $3K+/- upgraded kit from FFR in addition to the donor rear end or can you simple install the 2015 IRS set up directly into the chassis (considering the frame has been set up for that)?

[GoDadGo]

Could you get away with running a deeper offset for the rear?

https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/wheels/wheel-bolt-pattern-app/5-x-4-1-2-in?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=torque%20thrust%20m&N=part-type%3Awheels%2Bwheel-bolt-pattern-app%3A5-x-4-1-2-in%2Bwheel-width-in%3A8-000-in_9-000-in_10-000-in%2Bbackspacing-in%3A7-270-in_7-250-in

American Racing offers their Torque Thrust-M wheels in all sorts of back spacings at a pretty reasonable price.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Thanks Jeff,
I did delete the bumper add ons but that kinda was a wash with the upgraded front spindles.
I'll stick with the 3.55 gearing.
Rack adapter is included in with original kit order

Ok, question on rear end again. I did a quick search it looks like I can get the rear end of a 2015+ IRS (with 3.55's) for somewhere in the $750-1500 range. Am I assuming correctly you still have to buy the $3K+/- upgraded kit from FFR in addition to the donor rear end or can you simple install the 2015 IRS set up directly into the chassis (considering the frame has been set up for that)?

You have to buy the IRS option in addition to the ‘15 Mustang differential center section and outer hubs/carriers.

Jeff

[NiceGuyEddie]

Just an FYI budgetary note: Do not underestimate the cost of an IRS alignment. Loads of guys have spent over $500, which is "half of one of the thousands" spent on our cars.

[rich grsc]

My opinion, drop the FFR spindles and get a set of SN94 spindles with the dogleg. Spend that money on the rear suspension. A better bang for the buck. The FFR spindles aren't going to improve handling as much as upgrading from the four link to either the 3 link, or IRS.

[Joecobr]

I used the stock manifolds and j-pipes and encountered some issues that I resolved. I’m not sure if others have had similar experiences. Note that you will require a new oil pan and pickup (big bucks). I went with a Canton as in the photo. This pan still extends 3/4” below the 4” rails and so I had to fabricate a skid plate out of 3/4” box steel, angle and aluminum to protect the pan. I was able to raise the engine 1/4” with shims in the mounts but could not get it higher as the DS manifold would contact the steering shaft. The DS manifold / j-pipe / side pipe lines up pretty well. The passenger side required expensive shim adapters at the j-pipe/ side pipe connection the get the side pipes to run parallel to the rocker panels.
136576

[Joecobr]

Don’t mean to hijack the thread but, Peeker, can you provide more info on the 4.6 cooling mod? A pic, maybe?

[Morrisett]

Is the oil pan issue something that everyone runs into with the 4.6 dohc ? Just the first I’ve heard about it.

[Peeker]

Don’t mean to hijack the thread but, Peeker, can you provide more info on the 4.6 cooling mod? A pic, maybe?

This is a video I found for fixing the cooling issue

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2DKgD4cRbHo

The first pic shows the backside with the coil packs relocated and the cooling lines
136592
This pic shows how clean the front is with coil packs moved and the mod for the cooling system
136593
136594

The cooling mods with the braided hose is not part of the cooling mod in the video. Just a way to clean the engine up and make it look a bit nicer. I have to give credit where due, Keith Sanford was the previous owner and did most of this work. I also have that same Canton oil pan just FYI.

[Joel Hauser]

136601

These are the dolphin gauges that I used.

https://www.dolphingauges.com/product-page/6-gauge-programmable-set

Less than half the price of others sets. I think they work fine. The clock is not part of the set; I made it myself using the gauge bezel kit that came with the FF basic kit, and an inexpensive battery powered mini clock motor I found on ebay. My daughter drew and printed the clock face using a basic computer drawing program. When I purchased my set I had to send Dolphin the fuel sending unit so they could configure it for their gauge, at no charge. I also had to purchase a separate sending unit for the dolphin speedo.

[cfriedman67]

I used a champ Pan and it does not sit below the 4 inch tubes

[Joecobr]

I used a champ Pan and it does not sit below the 4 inch tubes

Did you shim your engine and what exhaust manifolds did you use?

[cfriedman67]

I dis not shim the engine and use the stock exhaust manifolds upside down.

[Walt]

Hi Phillip, what part of Houston are you in?

[phileas_fogg]

Philip,

If it were my car, I'd find a way to make the 2015 IRS happen. You can swap front ends at your leisure; swapping rear ends to the IRS takes some serious welding chops.

If you go with the F5 front control arms, I recommend you also purchase their spherical bearing inserts (http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/16332-spherical-bearing-inserts-for-front-lower-and-2015-irs-control-arms/). It's always a pain getting the grease gun onto those lower zirk fittings.


John

P.S. Joecobr: Gordon Levy sells a Champ oil pan (https://www.champpans.com/products/p/cp302lt-rr/), associated oil pickup, and dipstick/dipstick tube. The drain plugs and dipstick bungs are 1/2”-20. If you don’t have an oil temperature sensor, you’ll need to purchase a 1/2” NPT plug for the pan’s bung. You’ll also need an oil pan gasket; I chose the Fel-Pro OS 34508 R one-piece gasket based on lots of great reviews here and on the other forum.

See https://www.ffcars.com/threads/john’s-excellent-oil-pan-adventure.637338/ for a newbie's guide to swapping oil pans.

[Morrisett]

Galleria area (Briarmeadow)

[Walt]

Phillip, I sent you a private message.

[Morrisett]

Hey guys, thanks for all the input so far. I am going to ask a question that many have ask but I still want to get some fresh input. Am I making the right decision on the base kit vs. the complete kit even though I have a good running complete donor?
For those just jumping on the thread I have a 97 cobra with 114k miles runs and drives great, motor sounds great, no rust etc. paid $7400
I plan on using as much as I can with the exceptions of what others have already suggested I upgrade + some other goodies (front spindles, lower control arms, upgrade to rear 3 link, gps gauges, halibrand wheels, and a few other cosmetic items). I plan on leaving the drive train as is with the exception of rear gearing the back end to 3.55. Having Art (wirediet) do the wiring diet and supply painless harness for chassis wiring $1550 (including diablo sport programmer).... not cheap but from what I’ve read he’s the go to for doing this type of work.

So the big question is my donor worth what it cost me and will I use as much as I think. I do already have a buyer for the remainder of the cobra once I get what I planned on from it. I should note I don’t mind doing the clean up on donor parts to get them in good shape for the build.

A lot of the concerns going the donor route that I have read on the forum is that your reusing 20+ year old parts... which I am sure I will be refreshing axle bearings, calipers and other wear items. But the suspension itself will be all new FFR components.

I am leaning toward sticking with the base kit plus my upgrades currently because it still seams I am saving a considerable amount $5k+/-not to mention I am getting a sound drive train.


Major items I plan on using from the donor- Engine, trans, rear end, brakes/rotors (possibly just cores) fuel tank, sending unit, radiator, fans, rack and pinion, hydro boost, wiring harness, pcm / computer, and I am sure a lot of other little items I haven’t listed here.

Please feel free to shoot holes in this idea or tell me I am on a good build path.... budget is a factor so keep that factored into your opinion and thank you

[HerculezJT]

It sounds like a good plan to me, since you know the donor has been well kept. The drivetrain is in good shape and its not like your building this for everyday track use. Even if the parts are 20+ years old, just do a thorough inspection and replace items as needed, especially safety related items. Selling what is not used on the donor to make up some cash for later use. Regardless, I think the end result is that you will be happy with what you built, but always hungry for more. Best thing I can recommend being budget conscious, is try to do everything yourself if you have the tools needed. Some try to same money doing it themselves, but the tools needed may break even or cost more to pay for the part or service. Good thing is, there is a wealth of knowledge on here and YouTube University.

[Norm B]

I went the donor route with a 1995 donor in 2012. Bought my donor from an insurance auction for $1000, took the parts I needed, and sold off the rest of the parts until there was a bare shell. Actually made little money. That said, most of the donor parts were used as cores to get new or rebuilt replacements. Went with the 4 link rear suspension and the cut Mustang springs with upgraded tubular control arms. Will be upgrading to coil overs this winter but staying with the 4 link for now.
Did power steering initially and manual brakes but upgraded to power brakes after a couple of years on the road. Would have been a lot easier to do both during the build.
Two schools of thought. 1) Build the best car you can and never touch it again or, 2) Build what you can afford and upgrade in the future.

I went the second route. It probably cost me a little more in the end but it gave me an excuse to work on my car and spend time in the garage.;)

Norm

[Walt]

I agree with Norm, build what you can , I have changed mine , like epower steering , power brakes, a/c one of the first things I changed was from the power steering rack to factory fives manual rack , I also changed from the stock springs to coil overs with a full tank of gas and me and my wife it was hitting the tires in the rear. At this point I also have changed the 4 link parts over to after market , I also had decided not to use the donor gauges and wiring so I added that to my order at the 50 off price.

[Morrisett]

Has anyone used the sn95 pedal box assembly and does it require modification? The manual is saying to drill new holes for the brake pedal and lower it 1/1-2” and then to cut 1-1/2” out of the brake pedal arm to bring it back into the same plane as the clutch pedal I assume. I can’t see what this accomplishes. It seems to mock up fine as is with the exception of it hitting the square tubing and not fully returning to the up position. This looks like would still be the case even with the mod. If anyone has used one and remembers what they did I would appreciate some insight. Thanks

[Norm B]

The pedal arm mod (removing 1 1/2 inches between the pivot point and the push rod pin) and moving the pivot down increases the leverage you have to put pressure on the master cylinder for manual brakes. If you are using the stock Mustang brakes of the same vintage I would skip that step, get a power brake booster for an 87 to 93 Mustang and the rest of the stuff for the power brake mod. Lots of threads on this mod and the benefits it provides.

[i.e.427]

The reason for the pedal modification is for the ratio. This only applies if you are going for a manual brake setup. If you're going to use vacuum assist power brakes or a hydro-boost system then no pedal mod is needed.

[Morrisett]

Got it thank you. I am using the hydro-boost setup from the 97 cobra donor.

[cfriedman67]

I sent you a private message on a related topic.

Craig