Fuel Pump wiring

[IowaBen]

I'm using the Sniper EFI which comes with its own wiring that goes direct to the fuel pump.

Question one: should I be doing something with the wires that are part of the RF harness? I assume the tan Elec Fuel Pump wire will be live. The wiring book notes a few things to do if you want to tie into the harness, but I'm skipping it all together.

Question two: I'll add this to my list of dumb questions asked on here. For the unused ground wire that goes with the tan wire - if I attached it to the frame as an extra ground, does that cause any issues having the redundant ground? In trying to understand the wiring, it seems all the grounds are connected to the single ground wire near the DS footbox. I assume it doesn't matter, but I could be convinced it could matter so I thought I would ask.

Thanks - Ben

[phileas_fogg]

If you're not going to use the RF fuel pump circuit, at a minimum you should pull the fuse. You could also do something at the fuel pump connector just to protect it in case you need it later.

That said, you may want to repurpose the circuit. It's perfectly adequate to power seat heaters, foot box vent fans, or almost any other common accessory. Note that this circuit is hot only at RUN and CRANK; if you want to power something at ACC then this is not the circuit to use. If you don't want the relay in the circuit for some reason, you can move a spade connector at the back of the fuse panel to remove it (I did so & now have the RF fuel pump circuit powering my coil).

Finally, note that the inertia sensor is in the ground leg of the fuel pump relay circuit. You're going to want to move the inertia switch such that it's in whatever circuit you use for your fuel pump. I moved my inertia switch to the trigger for the Holley fuel pump relay.


John

[IowaBen]

Thank you for that info! I cut out the inertia switch already to use in the alternate circuit, but thanks for calling that out.

I do need to hook up seat heaters, so I will repurpose that circuit. For that scenario, I don't need to do anything with the relay, correct?

[phileas_fogg]

You're correct; you can leave the relay in place & just power your seat heaters with the tan RF fuel pump wire. That circuit will safely carry 15A, so you can power both driver & passenger heaters with that single wire. I'd leave the the individual fuses (part of each seat heater kit) in place as well.

Also, you do need to make sure the ground leg is complete; in other words, join the two wires that went through your inertia switch.

One other thought: With my Holley Terminator system, there was just a single green power wire for the fuel pump. It was about 5' long, so clearly wasn't going to reach all the way to the tank. The RF rear harness has a nice 4-pin weather pak connector that contains the fuel pump feed wires. I put a weather pak pin on the Holley green wire, then de-pinned the RF tan wire in the connector at the main harness side. Slipped the Holley wire into place, connected the RF weather pak and had power to the tank. Unless your Sniper system is quite different, this will be much easier than adding wires to the back & finding a connector to the fuel pump hanger. Just test connectivity on the RF wiring early on; they have been known to make mistakes now & again.


John