Tow dolly or trailer?

[Caddy Dad]

It's time for me to tow my Mk IV to the MVA for VIN inspection and title paperwork. I'll need to rent a pickup truck and a trailer to get it there. Just wondering what is the best trailer to use? Tow dolly or auto transport trailer? Or maybe I should just hire a towing company to transport it there and back? Any insight would be appreciated.
Thanks!

[CraigS]

I would do the trailer. The problem I had w/ a dolly is they are almost impossible to back up more than 100 ft and all you can try to do is go straight. I have used uhaul truck and trailer which worked well. One caution is the inner edge of the strip of metal the tires ride on can be maybe 3-4 inches high. Just depends on the exact trailer. But that lip can run against the underside of the foot box as the car comes up the ramps and transitions to the trailer. Mine made a long ridge in the foot box aluminum. So be sure to have a couple of 2x10s to put the bottom of the ramps on top of to reduce the ramp to trailer angle. You could hire a transport company but the problem is they may not want to sit around and wait for you to go through the process. 6-7 years ago while living in Md I helped a friend take his to the DMV in Glen Burnie. It was maybe 2 hours for the inspection because we were not the first in line and then, while very convenient we walked to the tag title building and that took another hour or so. I would call the inspector office and see what their procedure is now. Can you make an appointment for a specific time or just try to be first in line in the AM? BTW, the officer who did the inspection was super nice and helpful but, as he pointed out to us, he is signing his name to attest there are no stolen parts on your car.

[davekp]

I'd go to a local body shop or junkyard and ask if they knew anyone local to do a flat tow.

[jeremustang]

I've used the U-Haul Auto Transports a bunch in the past, and they always work great for short trips. They are way overbuilt, and they've always had good brakes, tires, etc. Can't go wrong for price and convenience.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I’ve had several cars come and go on the U-Haul car trailers but you really need to raise the tongue to reduce the ramp angle when loading and unloading. If not raised it leaves 2 areas vulnerable to damage at the ramp to bed break over point; the oil cooler scoop and the side pipes.

Jeff

[bobm488]

I've used the U-haul trailers 3 times with no issues.

[FF33rod]

I'm at the same point as you Caddy Dad. I've rented the uhaul pickup and full trailer for the day tomorrow to take the hot rod for the inspection, to get weighed, to have a 4 wheel alignment and to stop by work as many colleagues are dying to see it in real life instead of pics. It's going to be a busy day. I picked the trailer vs the dolly because a) the IRS isn't aligned yet and b) didn't want an unregistered, uninsured vehicle hanging out the back being vulnerable...

Thanks everyone for the tips on the ramps, will be extra careful with that part.

Steve

P.S. we have similar tastes in options! 347, TKO600, IRS, Sniper, IRS, 315s and 245s...

[Rdone585]

Trying to think out-of-the-box... I know laws vary from state to state; but, if the car is safely drive-able, and you're insurance says you're covered - will you're state issue a temporary tag to drive it in for inspection?

[RBachman]

I've used the U-Haul Auto Transports a bunch in the past, and they always work great for short trips. They are way overbuilt, and they've always had good brakes, tires, etc. Can't go wrong for price and convenience.

Dittos. However, be careful with clearance at the top of ramps. Raising the tongue helps, and I was okay with a Jeep Wrangler tow vehicle.

[AC Bill]

If the dolly you mention, is like you see some fellows towing a car behind a motorhome, while it's wheels are still turning. I don't think you can use them.
Somewhere in the past, I'd read that if the back wheels are turning, and the car is in neutral, the tranny will not be lubricated properly. This means pulling the driveshaft, and plugging the transmission, or removing the driveshaft from the rear end, and wiring it up out of the way.

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn%3AANd9GcTsq5hJvsMbyowfNVsQXeuQM4pqNBr 5woK6ow&usqp=CAU

[luvaz]

I second AC Bill's reply above.

I would not flat tow or dolly a roadster. Trailer only.

HTH,
Will

[KDubU]

Trailer, trailer, trailer.

[GoDadGo]

I've become a trailer loading pro because of hurricane season.
Back the rear of your tow vehicle up on a pair of drive-up ramps.
Use long ramps on your trailer if possible.
Easy Loading If You Motor Isn't Very Radical.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/ffrbuilder/permalink/3656302327730065/

[emac]

Another trailer pro tip is to find a small hill to back the trailer up to

[Caddy Dad]

I would do the trailer. The problem I had w/ a dolly is they are almost impossible to back up more than 100 ft and all you can try to do is go straight. I have used uhaul truck and trailer which worked well. One caution is the inner edge of the strip of metal the tires ride on can be maybe 3-4 inches high. Just depends on the exact trailer. But that lip can run against the underside of the foot box as the car comes up the ramps and transitions to the trailer. Mine made a long ridge in the foot box aluminum. So be sure to have a couple of 2x10s to put the bottom of the ramps on top of to reduce the ramp to trailer angle. You could hire a transport company but the problem is they may not want to sit around and wait for you to go through the process. 6-7 years ago while living in Md I helped a friend take his to the DMV in Glen Burnie. It was maybe 2 hours for the inspection because we were not the first in line and then, while very convenient we walked to the tag title building and that took another hour or so. I would call the inspector office and see what their procedure is now. Can you make an appointment for a specific time or just try to be first in line in the AM? BTW, the officer who did the inspection was super nice and helpful but, as he pointed out to us, he is signing his name to attest there are no stolen parts on your car.

The MVA does not yet allow walk ins. Everything is still by appointment only I went to the MVA and stopped at the State Police station in the back of the lot where they do inspections and talked to a guy who does the inspections. Inspections are only on Tuesdays 9-12 first come first served and takes about an hour. I then take my paperwork over to the main building , pay my money and then they will issue me a VIN. He said they've done over a hundred FFR cars. Sounds easy enough. We'll see.

[Caddy Dad]

Trying to think out-of-the-box... I know laws vary from state to state; but, if the car is safely drive-able, and you're insurance says you're covered - will you're state issue a temporary tag to drive it in for inspection?

In Maryland (and I'm guessing most other states too) you can't get insurance until you have a VIN. Once you have a VIN, and show proof of insurance then I can get a 30 day registration to drive the car on the road to get the car safety inspected. Once I pass safety inspection I can then get a permanent registration. Then about 4 months later I'll get a notice for emissions inspection. But since there is no OBD port, the site manager will sign off as not needing any further emissions inspection. Sounds complicated to me but many others have already walked this path. Fingers crossed!

[emac]

I feel so lucky. I called the local PD and within 30 minutes they were knocking on my door. Inspected my car, signed the paperwork and I took the paperwork to the county to pay taxes, then the DMV and got a title and a tag. I had it all done during my lunch.

[glastron351]

Having dollied and trailered many cars around I would not even think about using a dolly for the cobra. Trailer only....or even better get a flat deck tow. These guys are set up to move cars around and generally know what they are doing. I have CAA and it covers for 3 tows a year (used 2 already). Maybe AAA does the same?

Good Luck

[j.miller]

If the dolly you mention, is like you see some fellows towing a car behind a motorhome, while it's wheels are still turning. I don't think you can use them.
Somewhere in the past, I'd read that if the back wheels are turning, and the car is in neutral, the tranny will not be lubricated properly. This means pulling the driveshaft, and plugging the transmission, or removing the driveshaft from the rear end, and wiring it up out of the way.

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn%3AANd9GcTsq5hJvsMbyowfNVsQXeuQM4pqNBr 5woK6ow&usqp=CAU


True, true, true. Short distance 5-10 miles on city streets no prob but an hour on the Frwy is no good. U-Haul with the integrated wheel straps is the best for a novice trailer hauler. Pay attention when they show you how to use the straps along with all the other great tips you have gotten.

[Caddy Dad]

Trying to think out-of-the-box... I know laws vary from state to state; but, if the car is safely drive-able, and you're insurance says you're covered - will you're state issue a temporary tag to drive it in for inspection?

Yes, Maryland allows you to get a one time 30 day temporary registration. This will allow me to drive it to an authorized safety inspection shop where I'll get it aligned and inspected. As part of the process, the mechanic needs to take it for a road test. That'll be really strange to see someone else driving off in my car!

[Caddy Dad]

I feel so lucky. I called the local PD and within 30 minutes they were knocking on my door. Inspected my car, signed the paperwork and I took the paperwork to the county to pay taxes, then the DMV and got a title and a tag. I had it all done during my lunch.

Wow! You are lucky. I didn't know SC was that easy to get it titled and tagged. Good for you!

[CraigS]

Yes, Maryland allows you to get a one time 30 day temporary registration. This will allow me to drive it to an authorized safety inspection shop where I'll get it aligned and inspected. As part of the process, the mechanic needs to take it for a road test. That'll be really strange to see someone else driving off in my car!

Double check that test drive required thing. I don't 'think' it is required. I worked at a new car dealer while in Md so no one ever had to drive mine so I may be off base.

[Vegasjack]

Many states would require the car to be currently registered if the tires are on the pavement, as with a dolly. DMV may not even inspect said vehicle because of that. Therefore, use a registered trailer. I know they glanced at my trailer plate when I pulled into the VIN inspection stall.

[ggunter]

Caddy Dad, please post your experience with MVA as I also live in Md. and from what I’ve heard it should be straight forward but your first hand experience would be helpful. Have you looked into insurance yet. Thanks

[ggunter]

Also please let me know what MVA calls the car. Some say 1965 Replica. Others say they call it a Rep li ca

[Caddy Dad]

My experience at the MVA was very positive and I did a dry run a couple of days before hand just to make sure I knew what to expect. The process is relatively painless if you have all your paperwork in order. Where it can get complicated is if you are not the original person in whose name the COO/MCO was issued, don't have a bill of sale, no receipts, etc. Basically, the State police barracks located at the Glen Burnie (building D) and the MVA are two totally distinct entities. The state police only do VIN inspections on Tuesdays 9-12, first come first served. John was that only guy doing inspections the day I was there. Nice guy and very helpful. You'll also need an appointment with the MVA for title services the same day. I had my car towed on a roll back and we got there about 8:30 and I parked my car near building D. The state police will inspect your paperwork (COO, receipts, etc) and then your car for stolen parts. They had a little trouble reading the original engine manufacturer S/N but was finally able to confirm in their database that the engine was not stolen. He'll then pull a VIN number and fill out the paperwork required. You then go over to the MVA where you get checked in. Once at the counter, you hand over all your paperwork, show ID, pay your taxes, fees etc, provide insurance policy number. They then issue you a registration certificate and plates. Official documents to follow in the mail. Total time inside the MVA less than 15 minutes. My car got titled as a FFRI CP. You then take the paperwork back to John and he'll affix a VIN sticker to your car. After that you're good to go. Total time about 2 hours. I used my existing insurance company as they are also a broker for Hagerty. I had to follow up with Hagerty with pictures, a high performance driving resume (really a questionnaire) and a driver exclusion letter stating that my 19 y/o daughter will not drive the car.
Hope this helps!

[lgordon]

In Washington State you can get a temporary permit to drive you uninspected car on public roads for a small fee. Normally they were 3 day permits but now, COVID-19, it’s longer.

[ggunter]

Thanks Caddy. Any mention of emissions? Sounds pretty straight forward and much less intimidating than I thought. I just hate dealing with Glen Burnie. I pay tittle and tag places anything they want not to have to go to that cesspool. So at this time you don't have to do any more inspections? No state inspection right? Your driving now?

[Caddy Dad]

Actually the Glen Burnie MVA experience was very nice. Since you have to make an appointment everything flowed very smoothly. Workers were very efficient and pleasant. I hope they stay with the the current system for scheduling etc. If you get temporary 30 day plates then you will need a state inspection prior to getting your permanent plates. Then about 3-4 months later you'll get a notice for emissions testing. Take it to the emissions place and since there is no OBD port the manager will have to sign off. I got historical plates, thus no safety inspection or emission testing required.

[ggunter]

Caddy Dad. I have a couple questions. 1. I have always been a Chevrolet guy and I know where the engine serial number is. I assumed that Ford was like GM in that they stamp a serial number on a pad on the front of the block but after asking google I see that Ford doesn't do that and they just use casting numbers. Am I correct in that. I haven't really looked at mine but I believe you said the trooper looked pretty hard for that. It's a Blueprint engine so who knows where they get the blocks. Just curious what the trooper was looking for. 2. How did you get historic plates? When I read MVA's criteria for historic it says it must be 20 years old and not modified. Well ours were built in 2020 even though they are replicas. I would love to get them because basically it takes the car off the radar for everything. Emissions, state inspection and the like. I'm thrilled that you had no issue in Glen Burnie. The last of my parts are being shipped from FFR this week so I can get the body on and fastened down, fit the doors, hood , and trunk, put it in primer and take it to MVA and then paint it in the spring. Thanks for your help.

[Vegasjack]

Just did a registration in Las Vegas, NV. They put down "Assembled Vehicle." (and abbreviation for it) on the title. Geez, I thought all cars were assembled.

[AC Bill]

Just did a registration in Las Vegas, NV. They put down "Assembled Vehicle." (and abbreviation for it) on the title. Geez, I thought all cars were assembled.

In BC they show RPLKT as make, and Cobra as model, on the registration. What's the abbreviation for assembled vehicle, "*** V"? :p

[Caddy Dad]

Caddy Dad. I have a couple questions. 1. I have always been a Chevrolet guy and I know where the engine serial number is. I assumed that Ford was like GM in that they stamp a serial number on a pad on the front of the block but after asking google I see that Ford doesn't do that and they just use casting numbers. Am I correct in that. I haven't really looked at mine but I believe you said the trooper looked pretty hard for that. It's a Blueprint engine so who knows where they get the blocks. Just curious what the trooper was looking for. 2. How did you get historic plates? When I read MVA's criteria for historic it says it must be 20 years old and not modified. Well ours were built in 2020 even though they are replicas. I would love to get them because basically it takes the car off the radar for everything. Emissions, state inspection and the like. I'm thrilled that you had no issue in Glen Burnie. The last of my parts are being shipped from FFR this week so I can get the body on and fastened down, fit the doors, hood , and trunk, put it in primer and take it to MVA and then paint it in the spring. Thanks for your help.


Hi ggunter.

1) I really don't have a lot of knowledge on where the manufacturers place their serial numbers. On my Ford small block its on the rear deck plate of the engine. I'm not sure if its cast or stamped, but regardless, BPE put their serial number stamp right on top of the Ford serial number. It took a couple of tries but the state police inspector was able to decipher the original serial and determine that it was not stolen. They have a data base they can look up VINs, serial numbers etc. I'm guessing that if someone does show up for inspection and they determine that the engine is stolen, the car will get impounded right there on the spot. I'm glad I dealt with a reputable company as the supplier for my engine.

2) After I got the VIN paperwork completed by the state police I then walked over to the MVA and handed everything (COO, receipts, etc) over to the clerk in the titling and registration area. I just asked if I could get historic plates and she said I could get 30 day plates or historic. I chose historic. It's titled as a historic 65 FFRI CP. I'm guessing that's because of the year of manufacture that it represents but not sure.

Who is doing the paint and body work for you?

[ggunter]

Thanks so much Caddy Dad for the info. I forgot to look for the engine serial number this past weekend but that will be a priority for me this weekend. I like the fact they gave you the option for historic tags, that is definitely the way to go. That is the option I will certainly take if I can. I am going to do my own body and paint work. I'm so anal about being able to do everything on the car including alignment, I spent several hundred dollars for the tooling to be able to do the alignment. Certainly not cost effective but I just want to do it. I painted about a dozen cars in my 20's but they were much different paints then. That was in the 70's. Imron was the best you could get for durability but it was hard on your lungs. Now with the epoxies and acrylic enamels I would think they are almost as good. Like anything the prep is all the work. It was easy and fun to build this car to go kart stage but now the real hard work comes in. Body and paint are not my strong points because I don't do enough of it to get good at it. The only heat in my shop is a huge 300000 btu space heater but is an open flame so I can't use it if I'm going to paint so I'll complete the car, put in primer and take it to MVA for the dog and pony show then strip, re sand with a coat of fresh primer and finish the top coat and clear in the spring. I bought paint for a black car with silver metallic stripes but I really want the Mazda Ruby Crystal Red which is about as close as you can get to true candy apple red. But.... it is Pearl and I've never shot pearl and the paint is crazy money so if I decide to go that route I'll practice on some small panels before I do the car in that color. And if it looks like crap I'll send it out for paint. Are you driving your car on the street?

[Rdone585]

ggunter, if I understood you last post you plan to do primer then wait for spring before paint and clear. If you store the car covered for the winter that plan might work. If you drive it or leave it open to a shop environment you may be in for additional work you didn't anticipate. I drove mine with primer, in hindsight admittedly the wrong thing to do. I had to remove most of the primer and start over when I go ready for paint. I suppose not all primer is the same, but thought I'd pass on a heads-up for you to consider. I will say, I think I got as more comments on the car while in primer than after paint.

[ggunter]

I plan on putting the car in Epoxy sealer then taking to MVA and doing the dance then stripping bumpers windshield and lights back off for paint, but yes it will be stored in my shop till spring, and your right as time consuming as body and paint is, I don't want to do more then I have to. Or I could wait till spring to do all that. MVA is one of those things that nags at me till its done and over with. Much like body and paint.

[rich grsc]

Just leave it in gelcoat, don't waste time and money doing a sealer, then redoing later.