Dashboard wiring question ... again

[NA5KAR]

Thanks in advance for any guidance. Three questions. I'll keep it simple. Wiring the dashboard.

1. For the first two pics, I'm asking for confirmation. The Brown wire (pic #1) says 'Gauge Feed'. The wiring manual says to attach this wire to a chain that is connected to each gauge 'I' (Ignition) tab. I bought Autometer gauges like the Ultralight offered by FFR. I connected to each gauge, including one leg of the chain to the Volt gauge (pic #2). Good move?

2. There are 2 wires that say 'Speed Sensor' (pic#3). One is Green and one is Grey. The manual says to use the Green one. I'm guessing that I ignore the Grey one? There are two wires feeding the plug at the actual speed sensor on the transmission.

3. I want to hook up a Hazard switch / lights and indicator. From the FFR website, supplemental instructions, I found the last pic below. The next to last pic has a pink wire that says 'Hazard Flasher'. This wire has two leads. Then there is a 'Left Frt Turn' and a 'Right Frt Turn'. Not sure what to do here. In the diagram from FFR, I get the turn signal switch connections, but I don't follow what's happening at the Hazard switch and I don't know what to do with the left & right turn wires or where to put the pink two leads. Also, what do I connect to the Hazard dash light? Again, thanks in advance.

[edwardb]

1. Yes, the brown gauge wire is the power feed (vs signal feed) for all the gauges. So it's daisy chained as you've described. It can also be used as a reference signal for the voltage gauge since it's an ignition circuit with +12V at all times when the key is on.

2. The other speed sensor wire needs to be grounded.

3. Use the wiring diagram in the Ron Francis harness. The diagram you posted which correct is somewhat confusing. The pink hazard wire provides +12V for the hazard flashers. The grey turn signal wire provides +12V for the turn signals. Both power the lights and indicators. But needs to be wired exactly like the Ron Francis diagram shows including the double pole switch for the hazards. If not wired like shown and with the right switch, aside from not working properly, it's possible to get backfeeding in the circuits and it gets crazy.

[RBachman]

Agreed. Make sure you use the DPST (double pole, single throw) switch. I couldn't find mine so I ordered more from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LBMY89V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1. Yes, the brown gauge wire is the power feed (vs signal feed) for all the gauges. So it's daisy chained as you've described. It can also be used as a reference signal for the voltage gauge since it's an ignition circuit with +12V at all times when the key is on.

2. The other speed sensor wire needs to be grounded.

3. Use the wiring diagram in the Ron Francis harness. The diagram you posted which correct is somewhat confusing. The pink hazard wire provides +12V for the hazard flashers. The grey turn signal wire provides +12V for the turn signals. Both power the lights and indicators. But needs to be wired exactly like the Ron Francis diagram shows including the double pole switch for the hazards. If not wired like shown and with the right switch, aside from not working properly, it's possible to get backfeeding in the circuits and it gets crazy.

[NA5KAR]

1. Yes, the brown gauge wire is the power feed (vs signal feed) for all the gauges. So it's daisy chained as you've described. It can also be used as a reference signal for the voltage gauge since it's an ignition circuit with +12V at all times when the key is on.

2. The other speed sensor wire needs to be grounded.

3. Use the wiring diagram in the Ron Francis harness. The diagram you posted which correct is somewhat confusing. The pink hazard wire provides +12V for the hazard flashers. The grey turn signal wire provides +12V for the turn signals. Both power the lights and indicators. But needs to be wired exactly like the Ron Francis diagram shows including the double pole switch for the hazards. If not wired like shown and with the right switch, aside from not working properly, it's possible to get backfeeding in the circuits and it gets crazy.

Thanks so much Paul. Reading the manual is like an adventure looking for clues. I appreciate the help.

Dan

[NA5KAR]

Agreed. Make sure you use the DPST (double pole, single throw) switch. I couldn't find mine so I ordered more from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LBMY89V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks so much for your response RBachman. I also asked this question to Dave at FFR. He answered 'You need a six connector DPDT ON-ON switch. you would connect the pink wires to the center terminals and the green and blue wires to the terminals on one end of the switch'. The switches in your Amazon link are DPST , but they are On-Off. Dave mentioned On-On and he references the center connection, which your switches don't have. After reading EdwardB's comments, I would be careful about wiring them wrong and having unwanted results.

[RBachman]

Thanks so much for your response RBachman. I also asked this question to Dave at FFR. He answered 'You need a six connector DPDT ON-ON switch. you would connect the pink wires to the center terminals and the green and blue wires to the terminals on one end of the switch'. The switches in your Amazon link are DPST , but they are On-Off. Dave mentioned On-On and he references the center connection, which your switches don't have. After reading EdwardB's comments, I would be careful about wiring them wrong and having unwanted results.

Here's my "Professional Engineer's" opinion and unorthodox explanation.

Dave is absolutely correct that a DPDT ON-ON switch will work if wired properly. In fact, it should work exactly the same as a DPST in this application. A DPDT ON-ON switch is virtually the same as the DPST, but has the added option of feeding an alternate circuit. That function is not required with this application.

This is why I recommend and use a DPST. Nothing else is needed and a DT switch will do nothing to enhance the functionality. If that's what they sent, use it! There is no benefit in buying something else. :-) Regardless, functionally there is no difference between the two options of a DPDT ON-ON and its single throw counterpart. If I could find mine I might just use it. But more likely use a DPST since i have some and save it for something bigger. LOL

[NA5KAR]

Here's my "Professional Engineer's" opinion and unorthodox explanation.

Dave is absolutely correct that a DPDT ON-ON switch will work if wired properly. In fact, it should work exactly the same as a DPST in this application. A DPDT ON-ON switch is virtually the same as the DPST, but has the added option of feeding an alternate circuit. That function is not required with this application.

This is why I recommend and use a DPST. Nothing else is needed and a DT switch will do nothing to enhance the functionality. If that's what they sent, use it! There is no benefit in buying something else. :-) Regardless, functionally there is no difference between the two options of a DPDT ON-ON and its single throw counterpart. If I could find mine I might just use it. But more likely use a DPST since i have some and save it for something bigger. LOL

Thanks so much for the explanation. As it turns out, I have a friend who gave me a couple DPST On-On switches along with some DPDT On-Off-On switches. So I'm going to use the DPST On-On switch for the hazards. I sent the picture below to Dave at FFR and asked him if this was the correct way to wire it. He said yes, but his answer didn't expand on the second part of my question to him.

The wires going to the turn signal switch are bundled as follows: For the Left turn signal connection, there is one wire for the front and one for the rear, together with another (un-labeled) wire. The same setup for the right side. And, of course, the signal feed wire alone. There are three wires for the Hazard switch. My confusion is that the blue and green wires each say "RIGHT FRT TURN' and ''LEFT FRT TURN'. Am I correct in assuming that those two wires are the 'un-labeled' wires from the turn signal switch wires? Thanks for any confirmation you can give me.

135932

[edwardb]

Thanks so much for the explanation. As it turns out, I have a friend who gave me a couple DPST On-On switches along with some DPDT On-Off-On switches. So I'm going to use the DPST On-On switch for the hazards. I sent the picture below to Dave at FFR and asked him if this was the correct way to wire it. He said yes, but his answer didn't expand on the second part of my question to him.

The wires going to the turn signal switch are bundled as follows: For the Left turn signal connection, there is one wire for the front and one for the rear, together with another (un-labeled) wire. The same setup for the right side. And, of course, the signal feed wire alone. There are three wires for the Hazard switch. My confusion is that the blue and green wires each say "RIGHT FRT TURN' and ''LEFT FRT TURN'. Am I correct in assuming that those two wires are the 'un-labeled' wires from the turn signal switch wires? Thanks for any confirmation you can give me.

135932

Sorry to sound like a broken record, but if you wire it exactly like the Ron Francis diagram shows, it will work. Couple of explanations FWIW. (1) First, get the turn signals wired as shown and working. The grey wire is the +12V. Which applies power to the left (yellow and green) or right (blue and white) sides front and back depending on turn signal switch position. Note the indicators are also shown connected to each pair. So when either side is connected, power is also applied to the indicators. If you have that working, you're most of the way there. (2) For the hazards, the pink wire provides the +12V power. It should be wired to both sides of one of your switch poles. With a jumper as shown. Then there's a connection from the rear left pair from the turn signal (shown as green) and the right pair from the turn signal (shown as blue) that go to separate poles on your switch. It's critical these remain separated. (3) With your hazard switch off, there's no interaction to the turn signals. (4) With the hazard switch on, all four corners get +12V from the pink wire through the existing turn signal wires. (5) There isn't a separate indicator for the hazards. It uses the turn signal indicators. Both indicators should flash.

[NA5KAR]

Sorry to sound like a broken record, but if you wire it exactly like the Ron Francis diagram shows, it will work. Couple of explanations FWIW. (1) First, get the turn signals wired as shown and working. The grey wire is the +12V. Which applies power to the left (yellow and green) or right (blue and white) sides front and back depending on turn signal switch position. Note the indicators are also shown connected to each pair. So when either side is connected, power is also applied to the indicators. If you have that working, you're most of the way there. (2) For the hazards, the pink wire provides the +12V power. It should be wired to both sides of one of your switch poles. With a jumper as shown. Then there's a connection from the rear left pair from the turn signal (shown as green) and the right pair from the turn signal (shown as blue) that go to separate poles on your switch. It's critical these remain separated. (3) With your hazard switch off, there's no interaction to the turn signals. (4) With the hazard switch on, all four corners get +12V from the pink wire through the existing turn signal wires. (5) There isn't a separate indicator for the hazards. It uses the turn signal indicators. Both indicators should flash.

Thanks Paul. You don't sound like a broken record. Sometimes, I get fixated on one aspect of a project and I can't see beyond that. I was focused on the labels of the green and blue wires that are tied to the pink hazard wire. They only say FRONT on them and I couldn't figure out how that would cause the four corners to flash. Your explanation was perfect. I understand what the relationship of the wires is now. Thanks so much.