Dash Dilemma

[ggunter]

Good morning all, I'm sneaking up on my least favorite part of the build, (wiring) and even though 90% is plug and play, I guess I just don't like the disorganized look of wiring. I know after everything is tied and wrapped and clipped it will be organized it's just me. The question I have for today is the FFR plastic padded dash fitment to the hoop. Like many others I wanted to be able to remove it with out removing the body for any future possible issues. So I made aluminum angle bkts. to screw into. My concern is the different arch of the hoop to the dash and will the body come that far down to cover it. I apologize for the pics being turned. 135680135681

[DavidW]

You are down to far, bring it about an inch up just so the dash is at the top of the bar.https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79085&d=1515684980

[DavidW]

I bumped my dash out a little bit too because of the curved lip on the plastic dash it wouldn't sit flush against the bar. Turned out perfect. I could probably unscrew the screws holding the dash to the bar without any special brackets to make the dash removable.https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79086&d=1515684987

[DavidW]

Sorry to post so much on your thread.....here is how mine turned out.https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135707&d=1601318667

[ggunter]

So if I bring the center of the dash up to meet the hoop then the sides will be 5/8" above the hoop. Will that part of the dash then hit the body when installed?

[ggunter]

Dave do you have an aluminum dash?

[ggunter]

By the way yours look great. Did your dash have the same radius as your hoop. If so I'm going to have to raise mine up because you can still see your attaching screws. If I do that then will the sides of the dash that are 5/8" above the hoop hit the body when installed?

[CraigS]

The hoop profile compared to the dash aluminum never matches. I haven't worked on one so I don't know about the new plastic dash. Hopefully others will chime in.

[DavidW]

Dave do you have an aluminum dash?

No, plastic exactly like yours.

My dash sits just at the top of the bar in the center and on the left and right sides maybe a quarter inch of the bar shows, so the dash is below the bar on the sides. See in the pics.

[DavidW]

By the way yours look great. Did your dash have the same radius as your hoop. If so I'm going to have to raise mine up because you can still see your attaching screws. If I do that then will the sides of the dash that are 5/8" above the hoop hit the body when installed?

Thanks.

No the dash and hoop did not have the same radius.

Question for you....if the top center of the dash is even with the center of top bar you have 5/8" of dash over the bar on each side, left and right? I dont think mine was like that.

[DavidW]

I think the instruction manual said to have the sides/corners of the dash support tube 3/16" below the left and right sides of the dash. I think that would put the tube lower as it gets to the middle top, it made mine even to the dash. Using that plastic dash with that small 1/4" lip it wont sit flat on the bar so I added a spacer.

[ggunter]

If I put the dash even with the top of the hoop the sides will be about 5/8" above the hoop. See the pic I have above. The sides are now flush with the top of the hoop.I just want to make sure the body will cover the hoop and hopefully cover the dash and still have the screws showing so I can remove the dash.

[egchewy79]

In my experience, the large gauge on the left (speedo or tach) was interefering with the bottom of the hoop and limited the upward travel of the dash. for my aluminum dash, I had the dash around 3/16" below the top of the hoop at the corners. things may be different with the plastic dash. you can tape/velcro this in place and put the body on to get a better idea of how much overlap you'll have. make sure you put the bulb seal on the firewall as the body rests on this and not the dash hoop. also cover the bulb seal with some plastic sheeting so the underside of the body doesn't destroy it.

[ggunter]

Thanks Chewy, I didn't want to but I'm going to put the body on this weekend for a trial fit around the dash. I may not have to do anything but then again I may. Measure twice cut once. I just want to be able to remove the dash without removing the body if needed.

[egchewy79]

Thanks Chewy, I didn't want to but I'm going to put the body on this weekend for a trial fit around the dash. I may not have to do anything but then again I may. Measure twice cut once. I just want to be able to remove the dash without removing the body if needed.

you'll eventually need to test fit the body to see if you need to trim any panels in the trunk area to allow the body to sit far enough forward. also check to see if you'll need to trim a bit off the dash cowl of the body. from what i'm reading, you'll want the body to sit around 1/4" in front of the door striker plates. from what I gather, you'll sometimes need to trim the trunk side and rear aluminum and possibly the dash cowl to get it to slide forward. cover the bulb seal and top of dash with heavy plastic to protect them from the underside of the body. I found out the hard way and rubbed holes in the top of my dash leather at the corners, but this will eventually be covered anyway.

[ggunter]

I've heard some guys put plastic trash bags over the bulb seal so the body will slide a bit for adjustment.