My build progress video

[NA5KAR]

Hi Everyone,

I received my kit in June of 2018. I thought about doing a build thread, but I was concerned that I couldn't keep up a steady enough build pace to maintain a good thread. So, today, I decided to do a 'build progress video' to share with the forum. I want to thank all of you who contribute to the forum for your guidance. All of the guys brave enough to do a build thread, especially as first time builders, have really inspired me.

So, I'm not a public speaker or a good videographer. I think you'll get my overall message, even when I step on my tongue. I invite anyone with an opinion, advice, or a critique to please speak up. I'm a first time builder and I value your guidance. Thanks so much.

Dan

My Build Progess Video
https://youtu.be/kmWKRGPzuB8

[DadofThree]

Dan,
You're doing a Great Job! Keep it up!!
Dave

[NA5KAR]

Thanks Dave. I'm enjoying it a lot more now.

[Straversi]

Well done. I like the video.
-Steve

[nucjd19]

The video was extremely educational in showing the relationship different parts. I can get confused looking at pictures some times but to have you walk around the rig and discuss was awesome!

[NA5KAR]

Glad I could contribute. I've gotten so much from this forum. Wanted to give back a little.

[GoDadGo]

A Video Is So Much Better Than A Photo!

Regarding the bleeding of your rear brakes, try gravity bleeding them starting with the longest run.
Once all the bubbles are out, move to the short side and then repeat.
You'll be surpised at how much air will be removed.

Looking Very Good For Sure!

[NA5KAR]

A Video Is So Much Better Than A Photo!

Regarding the bleeding of your rear brakes, try gravity bleeding them starting with the longest run.
Once all the bubbles are out, move to the short side and then repeat.
You'll be surpised at how much air will be removed.

Looking Very Good For Sure!

Thanks Steve. I'll try that next

[GWL]

I've just started to make a few videos my self. I did a walk around video, like you, but I'm going to do it again with more detail, like you.

I had to stop when you mentioned the oil pressure extension at 4:20 in the video. I could not see where the oil temperature sensor was. Is it in that extension or somewhere else? If it is in that extension it will not work. No oil will change or move at that location. The only temperature you will be measuring is the block (conduction) and oil (conduction and possibly convection) temperature as it dissipates to the sensor. The best place is in the side of the oil pan.

Brake bleeding and balance bar set up.

Wilwood balance bar set up
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYK4VEOae6w

Wilwood brake bleeding

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jELllXdtjdc

If you decide to bleed the brakes using the pedal pressure method, you have to bleed the rear and front brakes on the passenger side at the same time. Then the drivers side. See video.

I used an air pressure system and was successful after a bit of working with them and bleeding, then some go karting, then bleeding again and working with them again. I also had to work with the push rods to get them just right so they would fully return to their starting position. I spent some time with the top of the brake master cylinders finding just the sweet spot of full return. Got to the point where you could feel the full return. I took the bellows off (not easy) to view inside the cylinders a bit. When the push bar is adjusted then adjustment is made with the adjustment bar for front or rear bias. It's taken me some time reading, viewing the videos a few times and working with the parts to finally figure out how everything works together.

The steering shaft should go into the lower opened shaft further than it does. Make sure the set screws (2) in the pillow block at the dash are not interfering.

George

[NA5KAR]

I've just started to make a few videos my self. I did a walk around video, like you, but I'm going to do it again with more detail, like you.

I had to stop when you mentioned the oil pressure extension at 4:20 in the video. I could not see where the oil temperature sensor was. Is it in that extension or somewhere else? If it is in that extension it will not work. No oil will change or move at that location. The only temperature you will be measuring is the block (conduction) and oil (conduction and possibly convection) temperature as it dissipates to the sensor. The best place is in the side of the oil pan.

Brake bleeding and balance bar set up.

Wilwood balance bar set up
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYK4VEOae6w

Wilwood brake bleeding

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jELllXdtjdc

If you decide to bleed the brakes using the pedal pressure method, you have to bleed the rear and front brakes on the passenger side at the same time. Then the drivers side. See video.

I used an air pressure system and was successful after a bit of working with them and bleeding, then some go karting, then bleeding again and working with them again. I also had to work with the push rods to get them just right so they would fully return to their starting position. I spent some time with the top of the brake master cylinders finding just the sweet spot of full return. Got to the point where you could feel the full return. I took the bellows off (not easy) to view inside the cylinders a bit. When the push bar is adjusted then adjustment is made with the adjustment bar for front or rear bias. It's taken me some time reading, viewing the videos a few times and working with the parts to finally figure out how everything works together.

The steering shaft should go into the lower opened shaft further than it does. Make sure the set screws (2) in the pillow block at the dash are not interfering.

George

Hey George, Thanks a million for the two videos from Wilwood. They should be required viewing for everyone building a FFR kit. I can't wait to try what I've learned. As for the oil pressure & temp sensors, yes, they are both on the same extension. I understand that the pressure sensor will work but the temp sensor will not be measuring oil that is circulating, only oil that is trapped within the extension. I'll have to talk with Johnny from Blueprint about putting the temp sensor on the oil pan. It makes a lot of sense. Thanks again.

[D Stand]

135570Thanks for sharing the video it is great. I am about the same point as you in my build. I had the same issue with the rear brakes until I watched the videos and did the 3 person bleed. Brakes are much better now. I ran my front brake line on the front side of the 4” tube like yours until I saw some other posts of folks cleaning up the powder coat from all of the road debris abuse this tube takes. I rerouted mine a bit higher see attached. I am also using the sniper and some other folks advised me to tuck my spark plug wires really tight to the distributor in effort to keep noise away from the ECU.

Thanks Dale

[NA5KAR]

135570Thanks for sharing the video it is great. I am about the same point as you in my build. I had the same issue with the rear brakes until I watched the videos and did the 3 person bleed. Brakes are much better now. I ran my front brake line on the front side of the 4” tube like yours until I saw some other posts of folks cleaning up the powder coat from all of the road debris abuse this tube takes. I rerouted mine a bit higher see attached. I am also using the sniper and some other folks advised me to tuck my spark plug wires really tight to the distributor in effort to keep noise away from the ECU.

Thanks Dale

Thanks Dale. I'm looking forward to trying the bleed from the videos. As for the front brake lines, I appreciate your thoughts. I may look into rerouting them or finding a way to protect them.

[GWL]

An easy fix for protecting the brake lines.

Find fuel line or other like vapor line that has an inside diameter the same as the brake line. Then cut lengths to fit between the brake line clamps. Split the fuel line down the length of the tube and fit it over the brake line. You can secure the tubing with zip ties if necessary.

George

[NA5KAR]

An easy fix for protecting the brake lines.

Find fuel line or other like vapor line that has an inside diameter the same as the brake line. Then cut lengths to fit between the brake line clamps. Split the fuel line down the length of the tube and fit it over the brake line. You can secure the tubing with zip ties if necessary.

George

Excellent idea. I've done it with many other things on the car so far. Didn't think of it here. Thanks for the heads up