Dashboard install / Headlight Switch / Other switch questions

[NA5KAR]

Good morning all. I hate to admit it, but I'm not great at searching the forum for answers to specific questions. I did try though. I have three questions and I appreciate any guidance on them.

Installing the Dashboard. I've read as much as I could find. I'm guessing that I should find the center of the dashboard and the center of the upper dash frame hoop. Then position the dash panel so that the panel (centered) is below the hoop ends by 3/16" on each end. 'Not' top of panel to top of hoop. I see that a lot of guys make a nice curved bend in the ends of the panel. I assume they attach the ends of the panel to the frame? The FFR manual says to lay the panel face down and bend the ends 'down' at a 45 degree angle, 1.25" from each end. Not sure which to do.

Headlight Switch. I have pics attached. Assuming I'm using the standard panel layout, the third lower small hole nearest to the passenger side is for the headlight switch. I took the screw in piece off the switch and tried to mount the switch. There is a small tab on the switch body that makes it difficult to put the switch body flush to the panel from behind. Then, the screw in piece doesn't fully tighten on the switch body. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong?

Turn signal Switch and High Beam Switch. In my kit, FFR only sent me one On-Off switch. Recently, I ordered an On-Off-On and they sent me another On-Off switch. I'm guessing that I need an On-Off-On switch for the turn signal and an On-On switch for the high beams. Pic is attached. Can anyone confirm this. Thanks a million.

Dan

[Papa]

Dan,

For the headlight switch mounting, you want to cut a notch that matches the switch so that the switch installs in a keyed fashion and won't rotate in the dash when you twist the dimmer knob. On turn signal switch, if you are using a toggle switch, you want a switch that is an on-off-on SPDT switch (3 pins). The Hi/Lo Beam switch is an on-on SPDT switch that needs to be rated for the higher amperage that the headlights will draw since it is directly feeding the lights. You didn't mention the hazard switch, but that should be a DPST (6-pin) switch.

Dave

[Todd Baumann]

On the dash center it up to the body that way if you decide to put a screw in the center of the dash and you do stripes the screw will be in between the stripes and look correct.
The light switch do as stated above and cut a notch.
The hi-low beams is correct on your assumption an on-on is what you need.
Good luck.
Todd

[AC Bill]

I used a foot controlled hi-low switch, like cars used to have. Seemed fitting for a 1960's car.

A gentle bend on the ends of the dash panel is the only way I have seen them done. A sharp angle bend wouldn't seem normal looking. The ends of my dash were tucked behind the top hinge bolt, and secured with a small angle brace. I understand some builders don't bother with a brace of any type, and simply tuck them behind the bolt. Each to their own.

135305

The FFR on-off-on switch, for my turn signal was of poor quality, and the lever snapped right off. You may want to shop for a better quality switch, for that one in particular, as it gets a lot of use. The others have all hung in there so far, but again, they don't get used near as much as the turn signal switch.

[NA5KAR]

Dave, Todd, and Bill, Thanks so much for your input. I understand exactly what I need to do now. I have a friend who works for a communications company. I told him what switches I was looking for and he had me come over and pick them up. I was going to order them from FFR, but after Bill's comment about the quality of the switches, I went for the mil spec ones. I really appreciate all your help on this.