Bought a 33 FFR built in 2012.........have two questions

[Hickman]

I recently bought a 33 Hit Rod built in 2012. Have two questions:

1) 302/350hp..............seems to run hot sometimes. 200+ Is this normal?

2) I need to replace battery. I'm told it is behind the passenger seat. How do I properly go about taking out the seat to replace battery? I just don't want to damage anything so am asking.

[JimLev]

If the battery was mounted as per the manual it may be quicker and easier to access it from under the car.
200ºF is probably OK, is this while your moving or in stop and go traffic? Does the cooling fan work?

[first time builder]

I recently bought a 33 Hit Rod built in 2012. Have two questions:

1) 302/350hp..............seems to run hot sometimes. 200+ Is this normal?

2) I need to replace battery. I'm told it is behind the passenger seat. How do I properly go about taking out the seat to replace battery? I just don't want to damage anything so am asking.

I believe battery is in trunk on upper section.

[RoadRacer]

I recently bought a 33 Hit Rod built in 2012. Have two questions:

1) 302/350hp..............seems to run hot sometimes. 200+ Is this normal?

2) I need to replace battery. I'm told it is behind the passenger seat. How do I properly go about taking out the seat to replace battery? I just don't want to damage anything so am asking.

#2 look under rear of car, in front of pumpkin you'll see a shelf.. you can go through rear firewall by removing passenger seat and aluminum access panel, but try from underneath first. Which is easier will depend on the battery and how the builder put it all together.

[FF33rod]

Welcome to the family! What serial number is it? I'd suggest reaching out to factory five to get the correct version of the assembly manual if you didnt get one from the seller. I'd be happy to dend you a soft copy of the version i have as a start if you wish. Message me an email address if you do.
Steve

[JimLev]

I have 2 hard copies, one that came with my kit #1047 which is Rev 2T, Aug 2017 and an older manual that was given to me before I ordered my car.
It's a Rev 1i Nov 2009 manual.
It's yours if you want it, just PM me your address.

Both manuals show the battery under the body ahead of the diff like RoadRacer mentioned.
If you have a roof on the car you may have to lift it up so you can raise the waterfall (panel behind the seats) to get full access to the removable panel behind the pass side seat.
Initially I mounted my battery per the manual but later built a battery box just above the diff so I could access the battery from the trunk.

134962

Revised mounting location.
134963

[Hickman]

only gets 200+ when sitting in traffic, etc.

[Hickman]

Thanks for offer. I have a copy the builder gave me. Just hard to tell how to get to it. But comments on here have been very helpful. I appreciate it.

[FF33rod]

Does the fan have a shroud on it? The FFR kit doesn't come with one but adding one increases the effectiveness of the fan significantly.
http://www.replicaparts.com/Hot%20Rod%20Radiator%20shroud%20page.htm

Steve

[NAZ]

only gets 200+ when sitting in traffic, etc.

200 is not necessarily too hot and may not be abnormal for your engine. SBF T-stats are commonly available in 160, 180, and 195 degree ratings, and be advised that the rating is the approximate temp they START to open and my not be fully open until 10-15 degrees above this rating. So first before you diagnose this as an overheating issue you need to know what T-stat you have installed.

But if indeed it runs hotter than it should, the two most common issues to look for are: coolant level, a functioning fan that operates at a temperature below 200-degrees. If these are found to be correct, then as mentioned above, a fan shroud will make a difference in air flow through the radiator at low speed. If you have the 33 style radiator it is already at a disadvantage as it is tilted enough to reduce airflow through it so IMO, a fan shroud is a must have. The other thing that will cause overheating at slow speed is reduced water flow. The more air flow and water flow the better. Some people install custom pulleys that reduce the water pump speed (alternator too, but that's a separate issue). If you have a pulley set that reduces the water pump speed and are having low speed cooling issues, change the pulley set to speed up the water pump.

[Papa]

Another thing to consider on the temp other than what was already mentioned is if the car has EFI that is controlling the fan, check to see what temp it is set to turn the fan on at. If the car is wired with the thermostatic switch, it could be a loose ground or corrosion around the switch. Also, there may be a fan override switch or manual fan switch on the dash depending on how it was originally wired. When it's hot, are you sure the fan is running?

[JOP33]

I recently bought a 33 Hit Rod built in 2012. Have two questions:

1) 302/350hp..............seems to run hot sometimes. 200+ Is this normal?

2) I need to replace battery. I'm told it is behind the passenger seat. How do I properly go about taking out the seat to replace battery? I just don't want to damage anything so am asking.

I have a 302/350hp with the Holley Sniper EFI (I am in Texas) and a 160° t-stat. On a good hot three-digit day (w/o AC running) I am running 200°-210° pretty regularly (at idle). I contacted Engine Factory (builders of the engine)they assured me with this exact set-up they typical run about 195°, but said because I was in Texas wouldn't be surprised with 205-210°.

[Hickman]

fan isnt working, therefore looking to replace electric thermostat switch to see if that is the problem, but FFR doesn't have in stock. Any ideas where to get replacement?

[FF33rod]

a quick test to see if that's the problem: if there are 2 contacts, short them together. If the fan comes on, it's the switch. If it's a single contact (which is probably what it is) then ground the wire that's going to it. If the fan comes on then it's the switch....

Steve

[Hickman]

a quick test to see if that's the problem: if there are 2 contacts, short them together. If the fan comes on, it's the switch. If it's a single contact (which is probably what it is) then ground the wire that's going to it. If the fan comes on then it's the switch....

Steve

Take the single wire off electric thermostat switch and ground the wire to something else, with battery power flowing?

[FF33rod]

okay, I'm home now and was able to look at the wiring diagram so I can be more specific. There is a single dark green wire going to the thermo switch on the bottom of the radiator (if the build was done according to the manual). When that switch gets hot enough, it closes and connects that green wire to ground which will turn on the fan. So a) make sure the radiator is grounded by doing a continuity check between it and the chassis (shouldn't be an issue) and then b) disconnect that green wire from the thermo switch and touch it to the outside of the radiator. It should turn the fan on, likely need the ignition on when doing this but don't need the engine actually running.

Hope that helps
Steve

[Hickman]

Thank you Steve. I grounded the wire and the fan runs. So it must be the switch. Now to find a switch. FFR is out of stock. Thank you so much for the help. Very much appreciated.