Slow and Slightly Angry's Type 65 Coupe Build

[Slow and Slightly Angry]

A few months back I turned to the fantastic citizens of this forum for a little help on what to include in my build sheet for my coupe. After some careful negotiation with the wife, I finally placed my order, and man am I excited. My build sheet as follows:

Complete Kit
Powder coating chassis
Coupe platinum gauges
Coyote engine/trans mount
Coyote full length headers w/Cats w/kit
Hydraulic clutch master cylinder kit
31 spline 2015 IRS 9.75” driveshaft – will not be using
Body cut-outs
Lowback race seats
Coupe 2015 IRS
Coyote A/C Kit
Wipers
Leather steering wheel
Side windows
Coupe nose scoops
EFI in-tank fuel system
Coyote Installation

I am not sold on the EFI kit (I will have to research the supercharger required flows). Is this the best one for the application? What is everyone else doing?
For the exhaust, are the cats required to get the coyote to run its best with the sensors/control pack?

I was reading up on the coyote install for the roadster and they require the moroso oil pan and pick up. Is this required?
Is a filter re-locator required?

My donor is a side/rear wrecked 2016 Mustang GT (coyote) w/Roush supercharger to use the engine and rear end.
I purchased the MT82 shifter kit from Forma Cars to use with the stock 6 speed.
I know there will some heavy engineering needed along the way to get everything to fit and more importantly work.

I am starting this project to build with my father (a former mechanic, albeit 40 some years ago), my sons (4 yo and 11 mo old - not sure there will be much wrench turning for them just yet), and anyone else willing along the way. This is a long term project with not deadlines. Hopefully, in the end, we have a well sorted Type 65 coupe example.

I appreciate any feedback about the choices and what worked/what did not for your builds.

[edwardb]

Congrats on your kit order. That should be a potent engine for the Coupe. For a few of your questions -- no, cats are not required for the Ford Performance crate motor control pack. Some add them to make the exhaust quieter or due to local emission standards. But the engine runs fine without them and the control pack doesn't support the post cat O2 sensors. No, you don't need a remote oil filter setup. The engine mounted oil cooler is removed and the oil filter mounts directly to the block. Plenty of room, and shown in the instructions. And yes you need the low profile Moroso oil pan. The stock pan would hang well below the frame. Make sure the instructions you're looking at are for the Gen 2 Coyote which is what you have (2016).

[Chris @ Forma]

SSA,
Welcome to the community. These builds are a lot of fun. A couple of thoughts on your order. First thanks for purchasing the FormaCars shifter kit.
• You will not need the drive shaft, ask FFR to omit it from your kit, they’ll give you some money for this
• We have a functional electric window kit, full opening, includes electric door latches, DOT tempered glass (not acrylic or Polycarbonate), inner door panels, billet aluminum window frames. You may want to delay your FFR window kit to access your options. You can always purchase this later.
• We have an engine mount kit for the Coyote which of course we like better. I’ll send you one of these at N/C since you purchased a shifter kit.
• You don’t need CATs unless your state requires them.

[Slow and Slightly Angry]

Thanks Chris. I will reach out to FF about omitting the driveshaft, didnt know that was an option.
What price did you end up with for the window kit?

[Slow and Slightly Angry]

Thanks Paul. Your threads will certainly be referenced extensively as well.

[Chris @ Forma]

You may also want to omit the Coyote installation kit as we are including ours at N/C with your shifter kit. The windows are $3499 and there are a couple of options. Powder coated window frames, custom interior door panels (Tan, Gray or Black leather are standard), interior lighting (since we operate the door release electrically, we know when the door is opened). In addition to electrically operating the doors, there is a mechanical emergency release to open the doors in the event of an electrical failure, and on the drivers door there is a mechanical release under the hood so that you can open the door if the battery is dead. The window regulator will either one touch up and down or move till released and on closing it senses obstructions and auto reverses if it senses an obstruction. The kit is intended to be as complete as possible and is very straightforward to install though the process is rather lengthy. I am still working on the installation instructions, and will post them when they near completion.

[Snowman]

Congratulations on ordering the kit! I recently order one too. Can't wait to see your build come to life!

[Slow and Slightly Angry]

Car is on its way. Expect delivery from Stewart sometime before Christmas which is a pretty narrow window at this point.

Going to do inventory, body and panel removal and hopefully some of the suspension (maybe a bit hopeful) during the holiday breaks. Ordered some of the major add ons (control pack, shifter kit, electric power steering kit). I bought some spark plugs to replace the current ones (the old ones are likely NGK). I got E3 but I was told by the guy who will be tuning my engine not to use those. Anyone using the E3s on a coyote? Thoughts?

I am excited to begin this adventure with my father and 2 sons. I am sure I will be reaching out for support - logistic and other - over the next 5 years or so and for that I thank you in the community in advance.139577

[edwardb]

The Coyote runs great with the Ford recommended plugs. Honestly not sure why you'd want to mess with something other than that. The 100K miles maintenance cycle isn't too shabby either.

Where are you located? My truck is in a Stewart trailer. Held up at the first stop in NH due to weather and a driver issue. Supposed to get resolved and on it's way to PA, then here to MI, and then to IL from what I understand. One of those yours?

[Slow and Slightly Angry]

I am the PA stop, supposedly next. I'll take a picture of yours on the trailer when mine gets here.

[Snowman]

Car is on its way. Expect delivery from Stewart sometime before Christmas which is a pretty narrow window at this point.

Going to do inventory, body and panel removal and hopefully some of the suspension (maybe a bit hopeful) during the holiday breaks. Ordered some of the major add ons (control pack, shifter kit, electric power steering kit). I bought some spark plugs to replace the current ones (the old ones are likely NGK). I got E3 but I was told by the guy who will be tuning my engine not to use those. Anyone using the E3s on a coyote? Thoughts?

I am excited to begin this adventure with my father and 2 sons. I am sure I will be reaching out for support - logistic and other - over the next 5 years or so and for that I thank you in the community in advance.139577

Congrats on the soon to be delivery! Having done this just a couple weeks ago, I'll say it is very fun and efficient. The Steward folks really know what they're doing.

I'm curious what power steering kit you went with. I just finished getting mine installed and am pretty pleased with how things turned out. Feel free to hit me up if you have questions.

P.S. The inventory doesn't actually take that long and if you have helpers that will speed things along greatly. Just take your time so you only do the inventory once and be sure to document things as you go. I recommend using a separate notepad for this as I marked up my inventory sheets and then found I had a couple parts confused and had to scribble all over the place.

Cheers,
Patrick

[Slow and Slightly Angry]

Thanks Patrick. I ended up with the unisteer 8052160. I'm sure there's some work ahead of me. What did you end up with?

[Snowman]

I used a kit from epowersteering.com designed for a MkIV roadster, but very easily adapted to the coupe. Check out this thread for pics of the unit mounted https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?38173-Telescoping-steering-shaft

Looks like the unisteer unit is very similar and might be able to mount in the same location as what I did. Just looks like you'll have to do more fab work on the included bracket. Let me know what you think of the install I did. I'm happy to share my notes with you on it.

[Slow and Slightly Angry]

Thanks for the link Patrick. Are you going to use the Russ Thompson turn signal column? If so, did you have difficulties in integrating the PS with it?

Just another update on delivery, lots of things interfering with delivery - weather, COVID, flights but it should be here on Monday. A little disappointed but I'm sure no less than Paul who has a delivery after me. Inventory and a little work next Saturday. Should be road worthy by February....of 2026.

[Rsnake]

I think my coupe is on the same truck and I am in California so maybe by summer I will see mine.

[Snowman]

Thanks for the link Patrick. Are you going to use the Russ Thompson turn signal column? If so, did you have difficulties in integrating the PS with it?

I just talked to Russ the other day and I'm in the queue since he has a backlog to get through as he was waiting on switches. Funny enough the switches arrived as we were on the phone, lol. All this to say, I don't have his signal system in hand yet.

At the moment I don't expect any issues with integrating it since my mods were all forward of the steering column pillow block bearing. Once I have that in the next few weeks I'll add the install to my build thread.

[edwardb]

Just another update on delivery, lots of things interfering with delivery - weather, COVID, flights but it should be here on Monday. A little disappointed but I'm sure no less than Paul who has a delivery after me. Inventory and a little work next Saturday. Should be road worthy by February....of 2026.

Yeah, all the delays have been frustrating, right? But looks like should finally happen next week. Stewart told me late Monday or Tuesday for my truck. I'm guessing more like Tuesday or Wednesday. Especially if yours arrives Monday. Good times ahead. Finally.


I think my coupe is on the same truck and I am in California so maybe by summer I will see mine.

I doubt yours is on this truck. This route has stops in NH, PA, OH, MI (me), and IL. That I know of. You're talking to Todd at Stewart, right? He can tell you exactly which trailer you're in, the route, etc.

[Rsnake]

Todd had informed me it was on a truck heading to NH, PA and MI so I am not sure if it's on this truck or not. I was scheduled for December 25th delivery and then the weather took a turn. Oh well, it arrives when it arrives.
Let me know if you see a coupe in the truck heading to California.

[edwardb]

Todd had informed me it was on a truck heading to NH, PA and MI so I am not sure if it's on this truck or not. I was scheduled for December 25th delivery and then the weather took a turn. Oh well, it arrives when it arrives.
Let me know if you see a coupe in the truck heading to California.

Sounds like the same truck. Surprised they'd drive from IL to CA with a minimal load. But who knows. I'll see what's left when they get here. The drivers are usually pretty talkative too.

[Rsnake]

Surprised me too. Looking forward to hearing what is left after your delivery.

[Slow and Slightly Angry]

With as many things as Stewart had to overcome, I'm happy to have received the car tonight.

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There was also a 35 hiding behind mine.
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Inventory, dismantle, beer on Saturday.

[edwardb]

Congratulations! Finally. You're in for an adventure now.

Heard from Stewart. That truck should be in my garage tomorrow. Thanks for the pic. :o

[KDubU]

The fun begins! Exciting times are ahead.

[Slow and Slightly Angry]

Got through inventory yesterday. 24 boxes and a front bumper. Went through inventory with the parts list and the manual for parts I was unsure of. Hopefully this will provide some familiarity with the part's when I need them for install.

As I said, I planned this as a 3 generation build and my father and 2 sons helped with the inventory. The 2 boys are 1 and 4 so helped is a generous word.

Unfortunately, a significant amount of parts are on backorder. Almost all of the front and rear suspension have yet to arrive. I will likely move to a little work on the transmission - switching to the FormaCars shifter kit and checking the clutch and possibly replacing it. I will also be replacing the oil pan and pick up with the moroso over the next week or 2. It is a weekend only build for me, for now, so things will be pretty drawn out.

Does anyone know what the typical lead time on the suspension typically is? Is there a typical time or is it variable?

[edwardb]

There's no one answer for POL (backorder) parts. You should find most come relatively quickly. But sometimes there are supplier issues or whatever that take much longer. There were a couple items on my Coupe that were many months after delivery. The side pipes (which I didn't use...) and the headlight covers were even longer. But neither held up the build. My Coupe also was shipped less many of the suspension parts. Just looked at my records. I had most within about 6 weeks. I don't know how that compares to the current situation. I have a few suspension parts missing on my truck kit delivered right after yours. I'm starting my follow-up with Factory Five today. Hopefully will get an idea of what to expect. Suggest you do the same. Don't wear out your welcome but establish a communication link there for regular updates. That's worked for me. Hopefully you'll find there's typically plenty of work that can be completed even with backorder parts. Just sometimes not in the exact assembly sequence.

[TheMole]

There's no one answer for POL (backorder) parts. You should find most come relatively quickly. But sometimes there are supplier issues or whatever that take much longer. There were a couple items on my Coupe that were many months after delivery. The side pipes (which I didn't use...) and the headlight covers were even longer. But neither held up the build. My Coupe also was shipped less many of the suspension parts. Just looked at my records. I had most within about 6 weeks. I don't know how that compares to the current situation. I have a few suspension parts missing on my truck kit delivered right after yours. I'm starting my follow-up with Factory Five today. Hopefully will get an idea of what to expect. Suggest you do the same. Don't wear out your welcome but establish a communication link there for regular updates. That's worked for me. Hopefully you'll find there's typically plenty of work that can be completed even with backorder parts. Just sometimes not in the exact assembly sequence.

I am going through my build right now and I think the supply chain issue has been somewhat elongated....ordered my coupe in June, delivered in early October, started on the front suspension and still waiting for shocks...so I set up a warm line of communication with FFR (the person who was my initial contact) and i ping him about once a month. We are also working around the situation as we can. The parts issues are real and do slow you down. I have found that sometimes this allows for a little more thinking and research...maybe more time to make the right decision (but maybe I'm just telling myself that to feel better!). Hopefully the Covid situation abates soon so this can get back to normal as well.

[Slow and Slightly Angry]

Waiting on parts but plenty of work to do.
I had my helper and future driver with me last weekend.
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I was able to remove and store the body and the panels.
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I ignored the minimal engine work I planned until now. I pulled the transmission, stock MT-82, off to check the clutch and to mount the engine on the stand. The transmission was surprisingly light, but I guess I'm not sure what I was expecting. Removed the starter and heads as well. Put the coyote on the stand and got the new pickup and pan mounted. I got the pan and pick up from Mike Forte and would highly recommend him. Very knowledgeable and helpful (ok done with the sales pitch). Only had a short few hours but happy with the progress.
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I have some work to do on the rats nest upfront but all in due time.
I did have 1 small casualty, the lift strap on the hoist snapped my throttle position sensor.
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I will probably work on stripping down the engine some more and installing the FormaCars shifter conversion next weekend.
Anyone who installed a donor coyote, did you feel that the FFR instructions (from the website) to prep the engine were fairly complete? I plan to stepwise follow them. Any sensors/connectors that you can forgo that aren't discussed in the directions, etc?

[Slow and Slightly Angry]

I have been doing some research for all of the fuel components. I am pretty sold on the aeromotive 340 stealth pump (11542), regulator (13136) and trick flow cannister filter (23006).
For the hanger, I have read a lot of good things about the Pro M racing hanger. I found that aeromotive makes a hanger assembly that only needs elbows. I like the idea of the pre assembled unit. Has anyone used their hanger? Any reason to think the provided hanger is useful for the application? Seems like the OD and subsequently the ID is just too small to feed the engine especially since the donor had 3/8" lines as well.

[Slow and Slightly Angry]

Working in an uninsulated garage has caused a bit of a weather delay. So I got back to it last weekend.

Quick rant
Get my rant in first, feeling a bit frustrated without my suspension components. It's apparently up to another 4 months out. I understand were in the midst of a pandemic and lots of people are in the same boat so not really a whoa is me, just a point of frustration. Ok, done with the complaining.

Shifter kit
I am using the mustang MT-82 transmission. I bought the kit from formacars to relocate the shifter. Pretty straight forward so far. I have not put the shifter on but the old shifter and tail have been brought to a more reasonable location I am going to wait until the engine and trans are in the car to put the actual shifter on. This will definitely lead me to needing a custom driveshaft but I will live with that.

Fuel system infancy
Ended up getting the aeromotive hanger and pump installed and the gas tank mounted. Super smooth install very happy I went with the all in one. I read a bunch of threads talking about the flanges on the tank causing problems and I thought, how big of a deal could it be. Man was it a pain in the butt. Installed it a total of 3 times because clearly I didn't learn after the first one.

The filler neck tube mount got me one time. Instructions say to bolt it down while the tank is in. There is no room between the frame in bolt. So I just slid the tank in a bit sideways with the neck installed. Pretty simple had I thought about it before hand.

Pedal install
Worked on the pedals next. Got the brake and clutch pedals installed. The top mout bracket is pretty tight to another of the frame rails so I need to figure out a way to drill through the 1" rail without going at an angle. Thinking right angle drill is about the only option.

More engine
Still trying to conceptualize the wiring, hosing, and everything else that goes with it. I have the oil and water sending units installed. I am going to have to lay out the control pack harness and the Ron Francis harness to just understand what I need to do. Seems daunting but we'll figure it out, hopefully...

With a bit of time until suspension, I am going to prep the aluminum panels for paint. I'm thinking about a hammered gunmetal for all the parts that are exposed.

[cob427sc]

I used Rustoleum hammered gunmetal on a coupe panels I built several years ago. I didn't do anything special prepping the panels and ended up with a lot of chipping. A aircraft mechanic suggested to prime the panels with aircraft prime (zinc oxide?). The panels I repainted held the paint much better.

[Snowman]

I'm in the same boat as you for the suspension. I got a notice two boxes are on the way and should arrive Wednesday. I'm hoping for suspension, but doesn't sound likely.

[jdm65]

Out of curiosity, which suspension components are you waiting on?

[Slow and Slightly Angry]

I only have the coilovers. The parts that they are waiting on are both sets of lower a arms and spindles. The spindles are the culprit for the 4 mo delay. At least that is my understanding.

[Snowman]

Out of curiosity, which suspension components are you waiting on?

I'm waiting on all the rear control arms and toe links. Also waiting on front hub nuts. Two boxes should be arriving today (got delayed due to weather).

[Slow and Slightly Angry]

Pedal and Clutch Switch Install
Took the hacksaw and oscillating tool to a perfectly good and perfectly expensive accelerator pedal. Once trimmed down the install was pretty straight forward.
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I did some substantial research (i.e. checked out Paul's builds and posts) for the clutch switches after realized they would be a challenge. What I found was building a mount on top of the wilwood pedal mount and a paddle on the clutch pedal master cylinder was going to be the best route. I was fortunate in that if I messed up the provided switch, my 2016 donor happen to have a backup. Also fortunately, I did not, as of yet, need it. I built a bracket with 2 90s in it to float the switch over the mounting bolt for the pedals.
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It was my first go with metal work and my limited tools (angle grinder) mad the work as nice as other brackets I have seen and mostly in line with what I would expect my 4 year old to make. But it seems to work and it is hidden as soon as the top aluminum is riveted in.
For the top travel switch,
I plan to use the FFR provided switch in the prescribed location by modifying the harness/plug from the control pack.

Suspension - Rd 1
With immense excitement, I received the front control arms and the radiator. That radiator is huge but I will probably need every bit of it. With some disappointment I received one of my lower A arms in a less than complete state and the incorrect ball joints for the uppers.
143877 missing the bushing on one side.
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Vertical threads rather than horizontal.
I installed one lower A arm and 1 coilover and assembled the other coilover. No pics for this as it lacked the climax.
End result - you win this round suspension.

[Logan]

The ball joint is normal. They’re not threads, but splines. That portion presses into the ring/cup on the control arm.

[Slow and Slightly Angry]

Hmm. Thanks. The instructions threw me off as they seem to indicate that they screw into press into the opening in the arm which is threaded. I guess this exposes my lack of knowledge in the area.

[Logan]

To be clear, there is one of each type for a FFR vehicle.

Front upper arm (multi-piece SPC style), has a plate with a threaded cup to receive a screw-in upper ball joint. These must be assembled by the builder. I recommend using a ball joint socket, but the manual shows it is possible to clamp the ball joint in a vice and use the arm itself as the “wrench” to screw it in.

Secondly, the lower ball joint (what I expect is pictured, and the reason for my prior post), looks like the LOWER ball joint that FFR uses. They are normally already pressed into the 1-piece tubular lower control arms. Splined ball joint pressed through a laser cut plate which is integral to the lower control arms. Hopefully this helps clarify what I meant.

[Slow and Slightly Angry]

Unfortunately, the pictured ball joint is for the upper (screw in) arm. The lower arm was assembled by the factory so no work required to install it.

[Logan]

Gotcha. You are correct then, you received the wrong ball joint(s). Need the screw in style. Carry on!

[JohnMac]

Zink chromate....

[Snowman]

With immense excitement, I received the front control arms and the radiator. That radiator is huge but I will probably need every bit of it. With some disappointment I received one of my lower A arms in a less than complete state and the incorrect ball joints for the uppers.
143877 missing the bushing on one side.
143878
Vertical threads rather than horizontal.
I installed one lower A arm and 1 coilover and assembled the other coilover. No pics for this as it lacked the climax.
End result - you win this round suspension.

FWIW the Howe Racing ball joints are popular options (check Paul's thread). I picked up a pair from Summit https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hre-22320s

They're a bit pricey, but are definitely quality units. If for some reason FFR will be delayed in getting those to you I'm happy to give you the ones from my kit since I went with the Howe units.

Cheers,
Patrick

[Slow and Slightly Angry]

Quick update: To factory five's credit, they were very quick in sending the missing parts.
On another note, found the clutch position sensor brackets and replace my fabricated brackets with the ones that I paid for in the install kit. They look just a small amount better than mine!

[Slow and Slightly Angry]

After a short hiatus, work resumed this weekend. A short recap with some pictures.

Engine X Frame
Obligatory pic of the x brace aluminum panel with fuel line stub outs.146949 most of the fuel system is together, aeromotive 340 pump and hanger, trickflow filter.
I stripped 2 fitting installing them on the fuel line so I am waiting for that. I will wait until test fitting the engine to locate the aeromotive regulator. It makes sense for me to wait, there is no real rush.

Pedal Box
I installed the Ford racing control pack supplied accelerator pedal (fly by wire). 146940
It's a bit tough to see but I drilled a new mounting hole about 3/4" to the right of the factory hole. This allowed for more room. I had shaved the pedal down and moved it as far as possible to the right (against the engine bay).

When installing the steering column, I found little/no room to install the requisite plug. 146941
Image is where the steering column goes when the plug is in (it was actually touching). Loose fit the mount for the column allowed for enough room to put the plug in..
146942 looks like I will have to do the same during final install.

New Stuff
Received another box o' parts from FFR with the rear control arms and most of the toe link. Put those together along with my coilovers. Everything went together pretty simple and torqued most of it down.
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You may notice the IRS spindle in the first picture but that is a temporary install from my donor until my FFR parts come in.

Center section/3.73 differential
Pulled the donor center out, sand blast and naval jellied it to get rid of the surface rust. A coat of primer and a coat of engine enamel black and it was ready for install.
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Tried to use the motorcycle life and lowering the car on the hoist down without much luck. Try #2 was successful. I used a ratchet strap attached to the roll cage to hold the weight while we got the bolts in.
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I purchased a unisteer EPAS before I received the kit. It is huge! So big in fact it likely will not fit. Apparently I did not do enough research. Snowman (Patrick) was kind enough to send over a template of the bracket he made to hold his kit in place. Neat and clean placement,, not sure how the body of my pump will fot still.. I'm not ready to give up on it yet but there may be a reasonably priced unopened unisteer electric power steering kit for sale soon.

[Snowman]

Thanks for the shout out. I hope my chicken scratch wasn't too difficult to discern. Looking forward to how your steering turns out, whatever path you end up on.

Cheers,
Patrick

[Slow and Slightly Angry]

On the cusp of summer, I received what i believe to be the last of my kit. After an enjoyable but socially distanced summer full of kids baseball, I was ready to attack the build again. Unfortunately, shoulder surgery sidelined me this fall so it was further pushed. Finally after nearly 10 months of inactivity I was able to pick back up on my build. I know, I know, you can all breath easy now.

With the final suspension pieces on hand we made short work of the hubs and finally got all 4 corners wrapped up. I threw on the 19" donor mustang rims to make it a roller.162543162544162545
As you can tell in the last picture, the camber and toe are set up for F1 (that is top in toe in!).
I picked up the tires I wanted. Bridgestone s007 run flat, since I don't intend to have a bottle jack or spare. 325/30/19 rears, 285/30/19 fronts.
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After moving the rims from one vehicle without an engine to another vehicle without an engine, I have been revisiting my thought on brake upgrades.
Turns out I have 15" brembos just laying (attached) around.162547
I have not decided if I want to invest in a machinist making a bracket, keeping the brakes FFR sent me, or yet reaching out to Gordon about a full upgrade.

[Slow and Slightly Angry]

Got the transmission mounted (with the formacars Shifter kit)put together this weekend. And...164749164748
Well she fits, mostly. Need to figure out the intake but we dryfit the nose and the supercharge tucks under the hood. It felt pretty good and a positive milestone.

[Ltngdrvr]

I'd give a quarter for guys to figure out how to turn their pics so they come out right side up! LOL!!!;)

[Slow and Slightly Angry]

New cross drilled and slotted zinc coated rotors on.
I mounted my air cups on the bottom of the coilover.
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Took a 4 day weekend to Italy to watch the f1 race in monza. Quite an experice.173588 173586
Ended up with covid from the trip...not quite the best experience.
Drilled out the driver side aluminum panels, finished up the brakes - had a dead irs caliper from my donor (no lines run yet).
Finally, I got the donor driveshaft apart. I picked up a flange from the 2005-2012 mustang to create the room I needed to material the driveshaft with the transmission. I just need a good measurement on the gap to get the driveshaft cut and finished up.
It feels like pretty good progress and I had my little guy (3 yo) with me so all of its a win.
Also not sure how the pictures are going to end up (right side up or flipped) but I do my best what I have.

[Slow and Slightly Angry]

Just had the long time in the garage yet, 5hr. Got the flexible brake lines attached to the frame. Moved on to the battery tray next. Bought a 51 series battery, oops, too tall, gotta go exchange it for a 35 series. Put the wiring on a bit of a diet, but more to be worked on next time. After that, we tackled the fuel system. Completed the runs using the stainless shielded PTFE lines. Hooked up the lines to the x plate aluminum that I made earlier. Connected it through the regulator and on to the coyote. Had 2 small leaks when pressure testing, quick fix, held 55 psi no problem. Clipped the feed and return lines in the trans tunnel, when we pull the engine a few more clips will need attached. Pretty happy with the progress for today. Moving on to the brake lines and possibly getting the wiring (engine only) wrapped up next time we get time.

[Slow and Slightly Angry]

No pictures again this time but got a little of this little of that done. I applied the MT82 tail flange conversion (to 11-14 - narrower 4 bolt) to ensure that connection would not hit the relocation kit from FormaCars. I put on a 11-14 MT82 Flange BR3Z-7089-A and 11-14 MT82 Flange bolt, BR3Z-7L013-B. The flange cleared but the abutting connection for the universal joint was a bit too large. I got to have some fun with the angle grinder. Fits like a glove now. Next step is to get a measurement for the driveshaft and have one cut.
I ran the hard brake lines for the front with little to no issue. The rears on the other hand were a bit more difficult with the supplied lines. The 8" (driverside) looks like it will be too short to meet the flexible brake line attachment.
Next, I drilled a ton of holes to finish up the driver and passenger aluminum. The obvious ones (sheet to sheet) were easy. To get the more difficult ones I used marker lines on the underside to locate my supports and drilled the aluminum. After replacing the aluminum into the cockpit, I drilled out the frame rails. Only had 1 empty hole near the trans tunnel. Pretty happy about the results. Only have to wrap up the radiator and trunk area holes to be done with the tedious task of drilling out the aluminum panels.
Lastly, I purchased wheels. I got a bit of a deal so they are not the correct offset. They are Forgestar F14 19x10 +42 offset fronts, 19x11 +26 offset rears. They look good on. When I get the body back down out of storage, I will be able to measure out the spacers I will need to sit the wheels in the right place. Tires will be mounted tomorrow and it will give me a better idea of the clearances.

[Slow and Slightly Angry]

Knocked out a few things since last post.
The low hanging fruit. Brake line plumbing - picked up a 20" line and ran it from the T to the driver side rear caliper.
Next, I took my mustang driveshaft (rear half) to a local driveshaft shop.
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They reduced it down to 18.75" with some slide in it to get it in and out. Worked perfect.
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I was pretty happy with the process and minimal cost to use the MT 82 trans and part of the driveshaft.
After that, we took care of the parking brake. Using the original mustang linkage mounted to the handle and brake lines (for now). I don't love it but they work.
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I mocked up the headers to run the battery cables for the starter and alternator.

I convinced my wife to help make the cables. So at least I can tell her it was her fault for motivating me on the build.

On a separate weekend, I prepped my dash for carbon fiber skinning at my house. I sprayed down a black epoxy paint as a base. I will put down a coat of clear, put the cloth down and clear, clear, clear, clear, sand/polish, matte coat.
I will post additional information about this process when I get the time to work on it. I am planning to do the trans tunnel and the door sills as well. I ordered 3 yards, so I should have enough.


Lastly, no big movement on the engine but I am looking for the right location for the computer, fuse box and 2" grommet hole for the inter-cabin cables.
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[Slow and Slightly Angry]

Having all kinds of issues with uploading images.
A few more of the prepped dash.
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[Slow and Slightly Angry]

Got the fiber laid and 2-3 layers of epoxy on the dash.
Had some issues with uncredited epoxy so I had some scraping to do. A lot of sanding ahead of me. Pretty happy with how it turned out so far. I think I will cf the door sills and the (yet to be made) lower dash piece.
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Monday I am going to work on my updated power steering setup. Previously, I had been set on doing the unisteer EPAS. Unfortunately it didn't fit anywhere along the steering path. I have since bought a PS rack and a Nissan (Japanese reliability above swedish?) Electohydraulic pump. It will be interesting.

[Slow and Slightly Angry]

Time goes by, life consumes said time.

I've mad some progress.
I've decided to buck the volvo hydraulic electric pump trend and went with the Nissan altima pump. It works on limp mode. I think I'm going to buy the electric controller from reform motorsports. I mounted the pump next to the battery on the tray. Bent some lines and all of the connections hold. I did end up buying a new hydraulic rack so more into the cost bucket.
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I installed the quick release steering wheel. Thanks again Scott for the 3d files for the jigs (also if anyone needs the jigs, let me know paying it forward). I didn't love the idea of drilling more holes in the ffr leather wrapped steering wheel so I bought a full carbon fiber steering wheel that had a mated bolt pattern. Since the inner portion (horn area) was different than the gasketed ffr blank, I did have to buy a plate to cover the gap. I will eventually 2sided tape the ffr emblem on the blank.
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Surprise, there's a lot if carbon fiber on the dash area.
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I've been slowly final installing the aluminum panels. The seat areas and half the driver footbox are siliconed and riveted in place.
Working toward getting all the brake and clutch plumbing done.

[JimStone]

Looking good! Keep up the good work, and thanks for the build thread. I love watching the progress you guys make

[Slow and Slightly Angry]

After about 6 months, a full bathroom reno, kids basketball, baseball and tennis, I'm back at it.
Last weekend I put in some time with the old hand powered rivet gun. Put the footboxes (not the tops) and the passenger/driver seat surrounds in. I used black silicone but I may have been better off with clear. It cleaned up fine but looked rough until it all dried.
After the rivet work, I installed the radiator. FFR designed that area really well and it went together pretty simply.
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The plumbing of the intercooler, radiator and a/c condenser will be interesting in that space.
Fast forward to this weekend.
Grand plans of turning a key...were quickly dashed after getting the engine in. Just so many things that I didn't really think about until it was in there. Headers, cooling plumbing, wiring...
So the engine went back in without too much fuss. Pretty much needed a shoe horn to get it in with the panels installed. 200214
I installed the headers. Pro tip from a non pro. Find someone with skinny hand to help, those clearances are tight.
With my shifter conversion kit, they supplied an alternate trans mount. So I painted that up and finished up the engine install.200215
Installed the driveshaft, all glorious 18" of it.
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Next I moved to plumb the front air cups. Built a bracket to house the compressor to go between the radiator tunnel and the battery box/repossessed electric power steering pump area. Wanted to test it out before I fully installed it and one of the fittings came incomplete. It was a bit of a bummer after a long day.

[Slow and Slightly Angry]

Snuck back over to the garage on Father's day to work on the car with my dad and 2 boys.
We figured out the wiring for the tankless air cup setup - only blew up 2 fuses, I think this may be a new record.

It is all in place and plumbed but still needs final wiring to clean it up. I will post a video and some pictures when it is wrapped up.

Takes about 3 seconds to fill and a half second to drop the ~1.5" of lift it provides.

[Slow and Slightly Angry]

Worked last weekend on the overall wiring.
Did A LOT of reading and re-reading of the Ford Performance, FFR Coyote Install, the RF harness and main manuals. Some of it seems to go fairly smoothly, like plug the 2 giant plugs into the computer and all of the direct wiring to the engine harness.
I ran into some trouble with the VSS speed sensor in my MT-82. I chose to stay with the vintage (non-gps) gauges. The RF chassis wiring harness has a 2 wire connector for the speed sensor while the MT-82 has a 3 wire connector. The diagrams are available online so I know what they do, but I have no clue how I can match them up without potentially messing some things ups. Most of what I find is using the 3 wire from the harness to a 2 wire sensor (so opposite of what I have). Guessing working backwards would work as well? I will be getting a tune for the engine/ecu after its up and running so that may solve some/most of any problems but has anyone else run into this and figured it out?

[Slow and Slightly Angry]

Seems like every 2 months or so I get a day to work on the project and today was the day.
Goal for the day, start the engine. Had made some progress on this front last time and I felt like we had a solid chance. Got all the connections made, tied in to the chassis harness (just 2 connections, not including the fuel pump. Wired the starter (with the Ford wiring harness), and directly ran the alternator to the battery. Hooked the battery back up turned the key and boom, what a noise. Wasn't plumbed for coolant so quick turn off. Boy was it exciting. My son and mom wanted to see it again, so we gladly obliged.
Started with the plumbing. Got the radiator done, a good bit of lithium grease but it all fit. So much more cooling to go - intercooler, reservoir and overflow tank. But called it a day before then to watch wvu play.

[JimStone]

Congrats on first start! That's a big accomplishment

[Slow and Slightly Angry]

I got the 2nd start recorded.
https://youtube.com/shorts/yjgaRDEBACY?si=r73-KA5MFJQ0kva9

[Slow and Slightly Angry]

In the same trip as my start video, we got super close to being fully plumbed, coolant, brake, clutch and fuel. Just threw fuel in there but it's been done for a while obviously.

Mounted the radiator a while ago but fit the intercooler in front of it (opposite of the a/c condenser). Since I have my electric power steering pump right in the way, I had to route my return radiator line through the inner fender aluminum.
And because the intercooler line and connection weren't in line with the radiator, I had to pop another hole in the aluminum by the radiator. Intercooler pump and the two overflow tanks all mounted. Only thing left is the heater core for the hvac system.

Once that is all fitted, should be ready for coolant. I'm interested to see how much both systems will need. Waited on the hvac lines since I didn't have the wiper motor mounted and I didn't want to interfere.

Went a bit unorthodox with my clutch line. Went through the top of the trans tunnel so I could use my existing clutch feed and connected it to the wilwood master.

Ran the y and the clutch lines to the reservoirs that I mou Ted on the angled panel of the driver footbox using the firewall connectors.

I'll get some pictures after my next trip back.

[Slow and Slightly Angry]

Plumbing and electrical were the name of the game this past Saturday. As previously mentioned, we got most of the coolant and all of the hydraulic (brakes and clutch) plumbed with just the heater box to finalize.
First order of business was to route to the heater. Had to take a few steps back to iron out the wiper motor, computer and fuse box. Two steps forward one step back type of stuff.

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Since it doesn't seem like we will need access often we siliconed and riveted the passenger footbox. We then moved the fuse box to the firewall (optional x plate) and the master 250 fuse to the side. This allowed us to position the wiper motor and heater valves on the footbox and plumb the remaining lines. I've added a few images of the "re-routing" of the radiator and intercooler lines.

A not so sneaky hole in the radiator tunnel for the intercooler. Perfect to go to the intercooler pump though.
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Fan lines just a dangling at the time.

A fairly major re route through the interior wing panel using the corrugated pipe.
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Finally, return line snaking through with the radiator hose.
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Good progress. It is pretty exciting with each step of this to actually see something come together now

[Slow and Slightly Angry]

Spent most of this past Sunday wiring the gauges and figuring out the sending units. Had to replace the oil pressure and water temp units with the ones that came with my digital gauges (not sure I had to do it or not but its made sense to at this point).
I think all of my reservoirs had leaks, the coolant expansion chamber both lines (re-taped and installed), both brake/clutch reservoirs (added tape, managed to forget to put tape on to begin with.

I did run into a question I need some help with on the gauges. I have auto-dimming feature tied to the headlights. Is the HDLT-SW-DIM (blue) line the one I need to jump off of to attached to the +12V headlight line on the gauges? Any help would be appreciated.