EdwardB’s 35 Hot Rod Truck Build - Well Traveled

[Papa]

Great work, Paul. You have set the bar with every build you've done. I'm still thinking of doing a Coupe or the RCR GT40 once I get to retire and get tired of traveling.

Dave

[Alan_C]

Once you get more miles on the 35 truck, I would be very interested in your seat of the pants comparison between the Coyote and LS3.
If I ever get my garage expansion built, I want to do a LS3 swap into a Saturn Sky.

[Jeff_J.]

Congratulations Paul, Great looking truck.

[edwardb]

Hey Paul.... My guess was your project was going to be a plane or helicopter. I've always wanted to do a helicopter.... although a plane is much safer. I too am going to do RC planes and Helicopters.... I have all the "stuff" but this car building is taking precedence.

Good luck, Mark

PS: I know I've asked you lots of questions, mostly via PMs.... will you continue to check them? If not, maybe I can get your email addrs some day.

I'm not going anywhere. Still will be checking in here frequently (like now) and I get notified of PM's. Will respond as best I can.


Once you get more miles on the 35 truck, I would be very interested in your seat of the pants comparison between the Coyote and LS3.
If I ever get my garage expansion built, I want to do a LS3 swap into a Saturn Sky.

I drove the truck another 20 miles or so yesterday. Hard to make a comparison between the Coyote powered Coupe and the LS3 powered truck. The Coupe drives like a fast and loud sports car. The truck like a... truck. At this point, the Coyote is smoother and more sorted than the LS3. But the Coyote is custom tuned and the LS3 is on the stock tune from Chevrolet Performance. Runs fine but maybe it would benefit from a custom tune? I don't know. I found the cost of the two engines to be nearly the same. Everyone always says the LS engines are cheaper. When I add up all the receipts, wasn't the case for me. That's comparing apples to apples -- new crate motors in both cases. There are a lot more LS's out there in salvage or whatever, so the opportunity on that side is maybe cheaper for the LS's. Installation was almost exactly the same. Same amount of major components, wiring, fuel lines, etc. So far, the main advantage of the LS3 is that it's more compact. In this case, made a difference. For other models (Roadster, Coupe) it's nice to have the extra room but they can handle either. For the amount of miles these cars typically get driven, I don't find durability to be a concern with either. So far, for me, it's a toss-up.

[RJD]

Truck looks fabulous! Congrats on your latest project taking flight (pun intended).

[Paul Mischenko]

Amazing build Paul - Congrats, I was just thinking what you will be up to next and saw the plane. Cars must be getting too easy for you!!!!

[edwardb]

Truck looks fabulous! Congrats on your latest project taking flight (pun intended).


Amazing build Paul - Congrats, I was just thinking what you will be up to next and saw the plane. Cars must be getting too easy for you!!!!

Thanks for the shout-out guys. Having fun with the airplane build. Lots of new learning and impressed with the kit. Empennage parts basically done. RH wing about 75%. LH wing not started. Ordered the next wave of kits. Six months lead time. When received, will have everything except firewall forward (engine and prop) and avionics (local supplier). Additional kits should keep me busy for at least another year. Lots of pictures on my EAA build site. https://eaabuilderslog.org?s=PaulTSi

[edwardb]

We had an extremely rainy spring and it’s been a super busy summer with family activities and travel. So haven’t driven as much as in previous years. We’ve tried to split driving time between the coupe and the truck. As of this minute, the truck has 737 miles. (750 in the title just sounds better…) The truck is running great. No issues whatsoever. The automatic transmission also is working just as it’s supposed to. The HGM controller has a Bluetooth connected app, so you can monitor what it’s doing. Appears to be going through the gears and into lockup just as it’s supposed to. Transmission temp also is fine, so my rear mounted power cooler is doing its job. The Vintage Air A/C works very well. Too well according to my wife. Really not much else to say. I’ve taken it to several car shows and events. It gets lots of attention. Last Sunday attended a weekly cars and coffee that they claim is the largest weekly event in the country. Can’t verify, but there were 600 – 700 cars and pretty crazy. I was surprised and pleased that the truck was awarded a top 5 best in show. That from an actual judge versus the usual participant judging where guys just vote for their friends. Don’t get me started on that…

I’ve been making a punch list of items to address and this week basically closed it out. Listed here:

- One of my main concerns is that the cab is tight. Nothing new there. The new version with the extended cab is for a reason. I made the situation worse with the somewhat thick custom buckets from Wise Guy Seats. I talked to them about possibly reworking the seats to make the backs thinner so they’d slide back more. We came to the conclusion that wasn’t really practical. What they did suggest was to remove the headrests and then the seatbacks fit under the rear window flange. Not really what I wanted to do because my safety side wants the headrests. But I tried it and the added 1-1/2” or so of additional rear movement does make a difference. For someone bigger than me different seats would give more space.

- The Chevrolet Performance instructions said one oil change at 30 miles and again at 500. Completed the first one several months ago and found clean and pristine oil. Was a bit past the 500 mark but changed it again yesterday. Again, the oil was clean, almost clear, and no sign of any shiny bits. I’m calling the early oil changes and break-in complete.

- With the truck on the lift for the oil change, looked everything over, checked for tight bolts, etc. Everything was just like new. One thing I’m watching closely is the steering shaft. Specifically, where it attaches to the steering rack with all the u-joints. Issues in this area have been reported by several on the forum. So far, everything is tight with no sign of any issues.

- I adjusted the ride height. Normal for new builds to sag a little at first plus I already had the tires really tucked into the fenders. I haven’t detected any rubbing. But decided to put a couple turns on all four corners to recover from the slight sag plus a little. Tires still look tight but now have more clearance. Still has the slight front to back stagger I want.

- I’ve had a little bit of a concern with the electric power steering. This is my first non-hydraulic setup. I feel like it works OK for normal driving. But at low speeds (while parking, going in/out of the garage, etc.) it was boosted but seemed to have too much effort. Had a back and forth with Dan at Factory Five and after several questions he says it’s working as it should. The good news is that after I raised the ride height (previous point) it’s better. You can’t spin it with one finger. But it definitely feels more boosted and the effort is reasonable. I’m thinking I had the ride height low enough that the front was binding a little? Or at least in a position where it was too much for that specific electric setup. I’m OK with it now.

- I removed the gauge on the Aeromotive fuel regulator and replaced with a plug. It’s been stable at the recommended 60 PSI since installed and adjusted. So removed the gauge as generally recommended for safety reasons.

- I thought about lowering the accelerator similar to how I lowered the brake pedal as discussed in a previous post. That would perhaps provide a bit more foot space. Dropped the dash and worked a bit to see if that would be reasonably possible. Bottom line, no. It’s buried and I’d have to take a whole bunch of things apart to get at the mounting bolts for the plate it’s installed on. Then drill new holes in the frame where it’s mounted. Plus, at full throttle (all the way down) it’s nearly hitting the firewall already. So, no go on that idea. Put everything back together. Related to this, I use the cruise control a lot. It's handy on the turn signal stalk and lets me take my foot off the accelerator and be more comfortable.

- I’ve thought about replacing the mufflers. It’s not particularly loud and I don’t mind the sound. But several forum members have reported internal baffles on the kit supplied mufflers coming loose. I haven’t noticed any unusual sounds from mine. Banged on them pretty good and nothing sounds loose inside. So going to hold on that idea for now.

- My last punch list item, still open, is to put some type of protection on the running boards. Right now they’re the same paint as everything else. My idea, for now, is to put some film on them. Xpel is what I’ve used in the past and I like it. I’ll get around to it eventually. But the bottom line is unless you’re a small child, you don’t step on the running boards. Unless you want to bang your head against the top of the door opening while climbing in. The opening is low so only makes sense to step from the ground directly through the doors. It's relatively easy to get in and out of. Nothing like the coupe.

That’s it. Other than the couple of minor items I'm watching, the build really is done. It’s fun to drive and show. I wouldn’t hesitate to take it on a longer trip. Just haven’t had the occasion to do so. With that, thinking about selling it. Read on in the next post.

[edwardb]

I’m one of those guys that enjoys the build as much as the driving. Maybe (probably) more. I’ve always ended my builds with the excitement of seeing it come together and work the way it’s supposed to. But at the same time a bit disappointed that the build is done. I’ve turned over three Roadsters mainly for that reason and landed on our Gen 3 Coupe. That one isn’t going anywhere. Both because of how much we like it plus we’re very active in our local Cobra club and kind of need something like that to be a part. Plus it's just so unique. This summer has proven that maybe we don’t drive enough to have two hobby cars and I'm not into having cars that aren't driven. Plus at some point I’m going to need the bay in the garage for my current airplane project. So, I’m entertaining the possibility of selling the truck. We don’t have to and I’m not going to give it away. I can find an alternate storage site if/when necessary. But if the right person comes along maybe we could work something out. Someone who likes driving more than building. Rather than having to go through this build thread, here’s a recap of the build. It’s highly optioned, with top quality all brand new parts. Clear Michigan title as a 1935 Ford Replica Pickup.

- Truck kit chassis number 138 purchased from Factory Five and delivered January 5, 2021.
- All fiberglass options including fenders, running boards, engine side covers, and hood. (Obvious from pictures)
- Ordered without powder coat. Alesta FF Super Silver II done locally on the frame and all panels. PPG DP90 epoxy on front suspension components.
- Chevrolet Performance 19370416 LS3 6.2L 376 C.I.D 430 HP crate motor, cast-aluminum with 6-bolt, cross-bolted main caps.
- Chevrolet Performance 19354328 LS3 engine controller kit.
- Vintage Air Frontrunner Drive System with 170 amp single wire alternator, Sanden A/C compressor.
- ATI Super Damper harmonic balancer.
- Holly Oil Pan and Valve Covers (with COP wiring clean-up).
- Hooker Headers (with kit).
- Gearstar Performance GM 4L65E Performance Transmission Level 3. Rated for 500 HP, 500 torque.
- Precision Industries Torque Converter, 3200 – 3400 stall speed.
- HGM Compushift Sport Transmission Controller with paddle shift option, Bluetooth connectivity.
- Lokar Electronic Sport Shifter. Uses paddle shift function on demand.
- Derale 16 row powered transmission cooler under bed in back.
- Griffin radiator (with kit).
- Pro-M Racing High Flow fuel pump hanger, Walbro 190 lph pump, Aeromotive regulator, Trick Flow fuel filter, Aeroquip TFE Racing braided stainless steel fuel lines, all -6 AN fittings.
- Moser 8.8 3.55 Rear Axle/Diff (with kit).
- 3-Link rear suspension (only option for truck).
- Koni coilover shocks (with kit).
- 400# kit coils springs in front, 250# Eibach coil springs in back.
- Wilwood 6-piston front brakes, Wilwood single piston rear brakes with e-brake (with kit).
- Wilwood dual master cylinder with vacuum power assist and proportioning valve. Braking is low effort and very strong.
- Electric power steering (with kit).
- IDIDIT chrome tilt steering column and steering wheel (with kit).
- Ron Francis wiring harness (with kit).
- IDIDIT switching relay headlight controller.
- Watson's Streetworks headlights on chime.
- Dakota Digital DBW cruise control. Switches on turn signal stalk.
- All LED external lighting including front DRL’s (with kit).
- Autometer gauges (with kit) plus added matching clock.
- Vintage Air Gen II ComPac A/C and heat. With Gen II Streamline control panel.
- Specialty Power Windows windshield wiper mechanism with billet arms.
- Chase Bays windshield washer reservoir and pump.
- Ball's Rod and Kustom power windows (with kit).
- Smokey Road Rod Shop aluminum bed wood system (vinyl covered, with kit).
- Custom Wheel Smith 18 x 8 chrome hot rod 52 spoke wire wheels (four corners).
- Continental Contisportcontact 2 245/45ZR18 tires (four corners).
- U-POL Raptor undercoat complete body, fenders, interior.
- Completely insulated with Second Skin Damplifier Pro and Dynamat Dynaliner. Firewall, cockpit including tunnel cover, and doors.
- Floor is double panel with insulation between (with kit).
- Custom Bucket Seats from Wise Guy Seats. On sliders plus back tilts back and forward to access storage behind seats.
- Custom center console with armrest and lit storage compartment. Under dash courtesy lights. Aux and USB ports.
- Paint is Sikkens base coat red 408E5 (from color book) and 4 coats of clear, sanded and polished.

I can provide a complete build list with even more details upon request. 737 miles as it sits at this moment. If you’re interested in considering, PM me and we can talk.

[edwardb]

Shameless bump. Only one time. I promise. :o

[progmgr1]

I'm hoping that the real reason you're considering selling is to free up garage space so you can be the F9 Beta Builder, if/when that ever shows up...:rolleyes:

Keith HR #894

[edwardb]

I'm hoping that the real reason you're considering selling is to free up garage space so you can be the F9 Beta Builder, if/when that ever shows up...:rolleyes:

Keith HR #894

Not thinking beyond the airplane build right now. But appreciate the sentiment. I actually contacted FFR about doing exactly that before deciding to build the truck. Things were way up in the air at the time and several years later only one beta build (Erik Treves, who else?) and still making changes. I've seen the current version of the F9 in person and while I like it not sure it's for me.

[edwardb]

Truck is listed at Bring a Trailer: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1935-factory-five-1935-hot-rod-pick-up-truck-replica/

[JohnK]

Best of luck Paul. Surprised it hasn't sold yet, but I'm sure it'll do well on BaT. It's a gorgeous build.

[Kbl7td]

I saw your truck sold for significantly less than you originally listed for. Why not set a reserve?

[edwardb]

I saw your truck sold for significantly less than you originally listed for. Why not set a reserve?

It did have a reserve, not sure why you'd think otherwise, and just beat it during the last minutes. After a lot of research and considering several offers, it was clear my original idea of value wasn't realistic. You know what they say -- the market determines the value. Not the seller. Obviously I would have been happy with more. But I'm OK with how it turned out. The truck will be going to Texas.

One other comment. If this had been the newer extended cab model, it would have done better. The limited cab size of this original version definitely limits the market.

[Kbl7td]

On my end it didn’t show a reserve like an eBay listing. Not sure if that’s a feature of BAT or if it shows a reserve is set once you go to bid. If I ever list my SLC, I would prefer them to not show that there is a reserve, only that it wasn’t met by all parties once auction was over.

[edwardb]

On my end it didn’t show a reserve like an eBay listing. Not sure if that’s a feature of BAT or if it shows a reserve is set once you go to bid. If I ever list my SLC, I would prefer them to not show that there is a reserve, only that it wasn’t met by all parties once auction was over.

The was my first time with BaT, so I'm far from an expert. I think it's possible to sell with no reserve, but from what I've seen the listing says that. When there is a reserve, it has to be agreed to with BaT before they accept your listing (I had to negotiate a bit with mine) and the amount is never disclosed to the bidders or even the final buyer from what I can tell. If bids don't meet the reserve, it says auction has ended and reserve not met. But again doesn't say what the reserve is to anyone but the logged in seller. I found the overall process well organized and professional. But it's not fast. Took several weeks to get everything ready. Their website has quite a bit of information and FAQ's which probably explains things better than me.

[JohnK]

I'm also far from an expert on BaT but I have lurked on a LOT of auctions and bid on a few. As far as I know, if there's no reserve it will be advertised as such and there will be an indication at the top of the listing that there's no reserve. If there's no such indication, then that means that there's a reserve but the reserve amount is never disclosed. I have seen on some auctions where, once the reserve has been met, the seller will post in the comments that the reserve has been met so that bidders know that the auction will result in a sale. This is totally up to the seller to do, and doesn't always happen so sometimes it's not clear whether the auction will result in a sale until time runs out.

Edit: As an example, if you look at the current crop of "Project" offerings, it's clear which ones are being sold with no reserve.

https://bringatrailer.com/project/

Sorry for the hijack.

[edwardb]

Truck is sold and headed to Texas. Loaded into a trailer today and away it went. Semi-sad to see it go. It was a fun project. But on to the next one. The Coupe is down for the winter but already looking forward to getting back on the road in the spring. It's not going anywhere!!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/IMG_4078.jpg?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/IMG_4078.jpg?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds)

Speaking of the next project, here's where I'm at with my Sling TSi airplane build. The wings and empennage are 100% done and stored "mostly" out of the way in our basement. Next stop for those parts is whenever it's hangar time for paint and final assembly. My fuselage kit is at a freight terminal in the Chicago area and scheduled to be here this Tuesday, Nov 28. Back on May 26, they were promised in 6 months. Not bad. Four crates at 886#. Should be interesting. The build so far has been very enjoyable and the kit is amazing.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/Wing_Stand_LH_1.jpg?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/Wing_Stand_LH_1.jpg?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds)

[Guardm16]

While waiting for further progress with the paint, finalized all remaining details with the interior. I received the sport shifter back from Lokar. They repaired mine although did offer if they couldn’t repair, they would send a new replacement. Their parts have a lifetime guarantee. Would be nice to not have a defect on a new part. But they stood behind it 100%. It’s still a mystery exactly what happened. But best I can tell it was defective out of the box and eventually failed. It now clicks through the gears smoothly and with much less effort. As expected, it was challenging to install back into the hole in the center console. But it’s done and buttoned up. In keeping with what other build threads have done, I made a video of the completed interior. Not edited (obviously with gaffes and not knowing the difference between right and left…) but gives a look at the final outcome.

https://youtu.be/Y2nu78nLaSk

With more painted parts completed I was able to assemble the truck bed. This was a big step forward. Everything had been together previously, so relatively straightforward to assemble for the last time. Our oldest grandson spent his spring break at our place. So he was a big help to hang the parts without scratching up my shiny new paint. Yesterday I finished the wood (aka vinyl over aluminum) bed, tailgate, and even installed the rear lights. Again, straightforward enough and really digging the final appearance. I had one panic putting in the wood bed. The chrome strips are held by 1/4-20 SS button head screws into SS T-nuts in the mounting channels. Literally the very last one I put in started grabbing and (you guessed it) did the SS galling routine. I was able to get it loose and chase the threads. So, no major surgery. But did go back and put antiseize on every one of the screws. Which I should have done in the first place and always recommend :mad:. The only thing left are the fenders and running boards. They’re not quite done and my painter had the nerve to go on vacation. Didn’t even ask for permission! He’ll be back and I know he wants to get this wrapped up. Probably by month end I should have a completed truck.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181357&d=1678400041

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181355&d=1678400041

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181356&d=1678400041

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181358&d=1678400041

The last two pictures were taken with the garage door open and the sun shining in. (Yes, we do occasionally see the sun in Michigan during the winter.) The red does pop. Question for the group. Pretty sure I would like to put something on the tailgate. Right now, considering this Ford script piece. I know, LS engine up front. Oh well. Obviously, it would be better centered and levelled. What do the masses think?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181359&d=1678400041

The Ford Script is an incredible touch. Is that an "off the shelf" item or did you find a place to have it made? My truck is named FUBAR (army slang from WWII) I would love to get one made in Ford script.
195405

[edwardb]

The Ford Script is an incredible touch. Is that an "off the shelf" item or did you find a place to have it made? My truck is named FUBAR (army slang from WWII) I would love to get one made in Ford script.
195405

The Ford script piece is a stock part from Speedway Motors. Their 91112802 Ford Script Emblem, Chrome. Can't help with anything custom. Sorry. Although there have to be options out there.

[Grandpas Garage]

Not a huge update, but this close to the finish line feels like a good step forward. Plus two more empty boxes to put in the recycle bin. Yesterday we installed the front and back windows. Today I installed the wiper arms for the first time. All good.

For the windows, the truck has a glued in windshield just like the Coupe, several other FF models, and untold millions of DD's. Plus a smaller window on the back of the cab. As opposed to the bolt-on windshield with the Roadster. Which, for the work required, seems a bit of a chore. But, trust me, easier than the glue-in process. The truck is a bit easier than the Coupe though as the glass comes with the frit (black border) already in place. So, no tedious masking and painting the frit with black primer. Didn’t miss that step at all. Also, again as compared to the Coupe, the supplied glass from FF fits the truck openings perfectly without any bending or trimming. I used rubber trim around the windshield on the Coupe. But didn’t use any for the truck. Also made it simpler. As with previous installations, I have a local buddy who’s in the business working for one of the major OE suppliers, lives close by, and is happy to stop and help whenever I ask. Good thing because none of the regular glass shops I’ve talked to are interested in doing this kind of custom work and I still haven't developed the nerve to try it myself.

There’s really not a lot to say about the process. It’s pretty straightforward. My buddy ask me to abrade the pinch weld contact area with 120 grit sandpaper. Then we very carefully cleaned (no touching!) and did apply primer even though the adhesive we used was technically primerless. Which is pretty common now. With that, and the perimeter of the glass also carefully cleaned, gunned in the urethane adhesive (I watched…) using a power caulking gun with a special tip that makes a “V” bead. Then pressed the glass into place, made sure it was properly centered, and added a few pieces of wide masking tape. We did the small rear window first, then the larger windshield. There’s not really much to add. It’s a straightforward and very standard process. The main tip I would mention is the pinch weld and frit are relatively narrow. So the right size bead (on the small side) properly placed is critical. You obviously need enough for a strong water-tight seal. But not so much that it’s squeezing out excessively around the edges. Both the inside and outside edges are pretty exposed. I didn’t have to do anything to the rear glass. For the windshield, I did a little clean-up and trimming in a few places after the adhesive had set for a couple of hours. All turned out fine and really happy to see the glass in place.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181720&d=1679175350

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181723&d=1679175350

Today I installed the wiper arms and confirmed the angles and directions I set on the Specialty Power Windows WWK2 wiper drive kit back when it was installed. Good thing because it’s a little bit of a pain to disassemble and adjust. Mostly just messy with all the packed grease. I used Specialty Power Windows WAB-01BR Billet Aluminum Wiper Arms, RH Bend that I had previously sprayed with satin black Steel-It Polyurethane Spray. I'm Ok with how it all turned out. These wiper arms I would rate as a little fiddly to set up. They have very small screws and they’re not knurled like the 1/2" drums on the wheelboxes. I made sure to use blue Loctite on everything and get the set screws plenty tight. I’m sure they’ll be fine for the (hopefully) very limited use on the truck. But I wouldn’t put them up there with OE style wipers, like the Anco ones on the Coupe. Also tested and confirmed my washers work. Nothing exiting but will pass the safety inspection.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181722&d=1679175350

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181721&d=1679175350

Couple more last minute details. I was going to glue the mount for the kit supplied center rear view mirror on the windshield and get that done. But unfortunately the mirror is wider than the opening between the sun visors I installed. I have 6” between and the supplied mirror is almost 8". Ends up a little clunky with things running into each other. Going to look for a different mirror and maybe mount it to the body rather than the windshield. TBD.

While moving the truck around in preparation for installing the glass, the MIL lit and it threw a P2138 “Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch “D”/”E” Voltage Correlation" code. First time my LS3 has thrown a code. With the MIL on, the accelerator pedal was inoperative, which agrees with various write-ups about this code, putting the engine into a low power or no-drive condition since it’s a potential safety issue. Basically, for redundancy there are two voltage paths between the accelerator and the throttle body. If they are different by a certain amount, the system throws this code. I cleared the code with my scanner and it hasn’t come back (yet…). So maybe it’s a one-time random event. But after doing some research, found that connectors could be the issue. So unplugged each (one at the throttle body, two at the accelerator pedal DBW module), cleaned with contact cleaner, allowed them to dry, and put a very small amount of dielectric grease on the pins. Again, as recommend on multiple sites. All is working OK so far with limited testing. But obviously will be monitoring closely. All new components, so wouldn’t expect anything to be bad. But anything’s possible. The one wildcard IMO is the Dakota Digital cruise control setup I’m using has a jumper cable between the LS3 harness and the DBW module. Maybe that’s disturbing something? Next troubleshoot if the code reappears will be to take that jumper out of the circuit and see if anything changes.

Finally, I’ve decided to change the rear springs. Way back in the build thread I noted how the driveshaft contacted the chassis with the rear suspension in full droop. From another builder, received a recommendation to move the rear coilover upper mounts to the top holes (described in the manual as “for the Hot Rod or low ride height”) as opposed to the lower holes which are for the truck. This limited the suspension droop and eliminated the chassis interference. But as is often the case, changes can have unintended consequences. In this case, the coilover adjustment collars required additional adjustment to make up for the higher mounting. Plus I found in order to keep the rear tires off the fenders, I needed the ride height to be more than the recommended amount. Both of these factors put the coilover adjustments near the end of their upper range and I’m really compressing the kit supplied 8" springs. Now that it’s been on the ground more, the ride height has settled slightly (normal) and ideally I should adjust it some more. But instead, I’m going to swap out the 8” springs for 10” ones. That will get me back to where it should be plus give a little wiggle room for some front-to-back rake which I don’t currently have. I ordered Eibach 1000.250.0250 springs (2.500” ID, 10” length, 250 lbs./in. spring rate) which are the same ID and spring rate as the stock springs. Plus Eibach’s are supposedly an upgrade. They’ll be here next week and shouldn’t be a difficult swap.

The Ford script is now attached with 3M molding tape to the center of the tailgate. Thanks for those that responded to my question and confirmed that location. Seeing a picture of an original 1935 sealed the deal. An easy Google search I could have done but didn't.

That’s enough. My painter is due back from vacation tomorrow so hoping to get the last few pieces finished and installed soon. Unless something else breaks or I decide to change something else, really getting close to done.

Did the new springs solve the problem? I have my rear shocks set to the maximum height with them mounted in the lower holes. I only have about 1" space between the fender and the tires, using the recommended 18" rims and tires. with about 3.5" clearance from the bottom of the fenders/running boards. The front shocks are about midpoint on the adjustment, so they can still go up about 2". I think that is a little to low and I am looking for a solution.

[edwardb]

Did the new springs solve the problem? I have my rear shocks set to the maximum height with them mounted in the lower holes. I only have about 1" space between the fender and the tires, using the recommended 18" rims and tires. with about 3.5" clearance from the bottom of the fenders/running boards. The front shocks are about midpoint on the adjustment, so they can still go up about 2". I think that is a little to low and I am looking for a solution.

Yes, the 10" springs helped a lot. Gave me the added ride height I was looking for and still some room for further adjustment.

[Grandpas Garage]

Yes, the 10" springs helped a lot. Gave me the added ride height I was looking for and still some room for further adjustment.

Thanks for the info. I have made up some flat bar brackets to extend the mounting location on the frame down 1.5". If that doesn't work I will try the longer springs.

[mbisett]

Paul: I want to be ready to remove the heater hose fittings from the LS I am planning on installing and understand I will need to the holes to 3/8"and 1/2". Based on the replacement fittings you identified in this thread, what was the thread count (8 on both)?, if you remember.

[edwardb]

Paul: I want to be ready to remove the heater hose fittings from the LS I am planning on installing and understand I will need to the holes to 3/8"and 1/2". Based on the replacement fittings you identified in this thread, what was the thread count (8 on both)?, if you remember.

The right angle fittings I used were 3/8 and 1/2 inch NPT. I don't know the exact thread count. Just used the appropriate taps. Discussed in detail with pictures starting at post 204 in this build thread.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?37287-EdwardB%92s-35-Hot-Rod-Truck-Build&p=464368&viewfull=1#post464368

[dnew]

Hi Paul,

This looks like your work. Not sure if you have seen it.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TYH1fvXE4RI

[edwardb]

Hi Paul,

This looks like your work. Not sure if you have seen it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TYH1fvXE4RI

Yes that's the truck I built and yes I know about it. Sold on BAT November of last year (2023) and went to Texas. Now in my backyard at Vanguard. I had a couple clues the guy that bought it was a collector and likely would flip it. What's "interesting" is that I offered it to Vanguard (the dealer in the video) before going with BAT. They insulted me with a low ball offer and were less than complimentary about it. I told them what I thought of their offer and moved on. Now they have it back at several times what they offered me and according to the video it's the best thing ever. Obviously makes a difference whether you're buying or selling. :rolleyes: I find it hard to believe it will sell for their asking price. But don't expect I'll ever know.

[Jeff Kleiner]

…I find it hard to believe it will sell for their asking price. But don't expect I'll ever know.

Nothing sells for their asking price! And as usual much of their descriptions are inaccurate, but I don’t think their typical buyer knows or cares. Truck still looks great Paul!

Jeff

[460.465USMC]

Someone is going to get a well sorted, high quality F5 truck! The video really showcased your handiwork. It was a pleasure to get such a detailed view of it. (Only thing it needs is a third pedal :p).

[J R Jones]

The automatic transmission is the appropriate choice for that truck. A manual transmission requires ergonomics to facilitate driver function. Review Greg's video seated with open door and while driving.
The driver torso should be held securely so that the arms and legs are free for control, not bracing, hanging-on or crammed against the torso.
The left arm should be free for one handed steering while the right arm/hand is free to throw/pull shifts.
Simultaneously the legs/feet are free to push the pedals; occasionally brake and throttle at the same time to rev-match during downshift.
One can not shift effectively from a fetal-like position.
jim

[460.465USMC]

The point of my post is to compliment Paul and his build. The parenthetical comment about it needing a manual transmission is strictly in jest. It's not meant as a suggestion to Paul, his build, or any other F5 hot rod truck builder. I hope no one else takes it seriously--hence the emoticon I added to convey it was meant tongue-in-cheek. Please disregard.

[edwardb]

The point of my post is to compliment Paul and his build. The parenthetical comment about it needing a manual transmission is strictly in jest. It's not meant as a suggestion to Paul, his build, or any other F5 hot rod truck builder. I hope no one else takes it seriously--hence the emoticon I added to convey it was meant tongue-in-cheek. Please disregard.

I didn't take it seriously and your humor was appreciated. I described in some of the early posts why I chose an automatic: (1) It fit the intended theme of the truck as a boulevard cruiser -- automatic, PS, PB, cruise, A/C, etc. (2) I like to try new things on all my builds and I hadn't done an automatic before. It was an interesting exercise. Far from an expert now but know more than I did before, (3) The footbox space on the truck is limited and the third pedal (clutch) made it worse.



The automatic transmission is the appropriate choice for that truck. A manual transmission requires ergonomics to facilitate driver function. Review Greg's video seated with open door and while driving.
The driver torso should be held securely so that the arms and legs are free for control, not bracing, hanging-on or crammed against the torso.
The left arm should be free for one handed steering while the right arm/hand is free to throw/pull shifts.
Simultaneously the legs/feet are free to push the pedals; occasionally brake and throttle at the same time to rev-match during downshift.
One can not shift effectively from a fetal-like position.
jim

Your statements overstate the case, especially the "fetal-like position" reference. But the truck as originally released (which this one was) has been noted by all owners as tight. I'm 5'9" and was tight for me. I mentioned this several times in the build thread. Greg, the Vanguard guy in the video, citing his height as over 6 feet is too tall to be comfortable in that cab. Full stop. There's a reason Factory Five released a new version a year or more after I got mine that has a six inch longer cab. If I had built that version, maybe I might have kept it. But probably not... I went on to another project.

[progmgr1]

I don't know if I agree with your reasoning. IMHO the truck would have looked really sweet as a parts hauler / airport transportation vehicle for your new project...

Now, the question is: what's next?

Cheers! Keith HR #894

[edwardb]

I don't know if I agree with your reasoning. IMHO the truck would have looked really sweet as a parts hauler / airport transportation vehicle for your new project...

Now, the question is: what's next?

Cheers! Keith HR #894

This build thread has gotten a little off topic. Let's just move on. I sold it for various reasons. Some discussed some not. No further explanation is necessary. Lots of cars are bought and sold on this forum. I'm at least six months away from completion on the airplane build. It could easily be longer. I'm not sure what comes after that.

[edwardb]

Sharing this which is interesting to me. Maybe to others. Like most everyone else doing these build, we tend to pour ourselves into them with some level of emotional attachment. So when I decided to sell the truck, it was with a certain amount of sadness and regret when it drove away. Most know I sold it on BaT in November 2023. Went for $55K. A bit less than I hoped but the decision was made. It safely arrived in Texas at the new owner’s place about a month later. I never heard from the guy which disappointed me a bit because I wanted to know if he was happy with it, had any questions, etc. Oh well. A couple of months ago, I found out the truck was back in Michigan at Vanguard Motor Sales. No clue what happened. Now for more of the story.

So yesterday, I’m binge watching Motortrend TV (while waiting for Sikaflex to cure on fuselage windows on my airplane build) and the program went to “Top 10 Mecum Auto Sales.” Number 7 came up (yet another Porsche) and right behind it I see a red hot rod that looked very suspicious. Snapped this picture from across the room.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208184&d=1735492889

I zoomed in and checked as many details as I could comparing to my own pictures. Matched exactly right down to the DRL’s. Mecum Monterey 2024. August last year. Went to Mecum’s website and found it. Yep, it was my former truck build. Went across the block for $57,200.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208183&d=1735492889

I had always suspected the guy that bought it on BaT was a flipper. Don't know for sure, but seems like it. I’m guessing Vanguard bought it and brought it back to Michigan. They’ve sold cars from auctions in the past. Now the asking price has zoomed up to $99,900. https://www.vanguardmotorsales.com/inventory/5163/1935-ford-pickup-factory-five-hot-rod-truck. Can’t imagine they’ll get close to that. But good luck anyway. So far, between BaT and Mecum premiums and transportation, no one has made any money on it yet. Only losses. Reinforces to me that even though it sold for less than I might have liked, it was about what the market dictated.

So, interesting travel for my truck build: Massachusetts -> Michigan -> Texas -> California -> Back to Michigan. Wonder where it’s headed next?

[egchewy79]

Talk about full circle.
You could have driven/sold it directly to Vanguard and saved everyone a lot of shipping/auction fees.

[edwardb]

Talk about full circle.
You could have driven/sold it directly to Vanguard and saved everyone a lot of shipping/auction fees.

Yeah, sounds easy... Not in my interest to try to save other people's shipping and auction fees. That's their choice and they pay them. My total out of pocket to sell it was the $100 listing fee at BaT. Actually, I did offer it to Vanguard before going with BaT. Sent them a bunch of pictures, talked to their sales guy, etc. Offered to take it to see in person but they declined. They made a low ball offer and proceeded to tell me how hard it would be to sell, lit in their inventory forever, limited market, blah blah. I told them what I thought of their offer and the rest is history. I completely get they have to buy for the right price to make a profit. But it was not a pleasant experience. Nothing I like worse than someone bad-mouthing whatever it is you're trying to sell expecting you to lower the price. I'm not going to disclose their offer. But let's just say it was a lot less than they paid for it at auction. If they are in fact who bought it at Mecum. And crazy low if they are able to get anywhere near their asking price.

[rthomas98]

Hey Paul I know it is more of a glass half full kind of thought, but I loaded up Max streaming to see your truck, (the Monterey auction was still on the app), I say it is pretty cool that your truck was on TV during Mecum. My daughter actually got excited to see a truck on TV that she had seen in real life (a couple of times). If nothing else it was a quality piece of machinery that went across the block and made my daughters day seeing something cool on TV that she saw in person. Not to mention the other millions of viewers that watch the mecum auctions on TV and may have wondered what a factory five truck was and started the google search. It is not a common vehicle in Barrett Jackson or Mecum. I hope you can take some solace in that.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208212&d=1735532348

[edwardb]

Hey Paul I know it is more of a glass half full kind of thought, but I loaded up Max streaming to see your truck, (the Monterey auction was still on the app), I say it is pretty cool that your truck was on TV during Mecum. My daughter actually got excited to see a truck on TV that she had seen in real life (a couple of times). If nothing else it was a quality piece of machinery that went across the block and made my daughters day seeing something cool on TV that she saw in person. Not to mention the other millions of viewers that watch the mecum auctions on TV and may have wondered what a factory five truck was and started the google search. It is not a common vehicle in Barrett Jackson or Mecum. I hope you can take some solace in that.

Thanks for your message and picture. That was at the big cars and coffee in Plymouth, right? I remember it well. My recounting of the "travels" of my truck build wasn't meant to be negative. I guess maybe it came out that way. Mostly just interesting, and finding it had gone across the block at Mecum helped to explain how it went from the BaT sale to back in Michigan at Vanguard. I agree it's cool my build was at Mecum. I wouldn't mind hearing what the commentators said (or maybe not...) as it went across the block.

The truck was a fun build, I tried lots of new things, was happy with how it turned out, and most everyone was really complimentary when I had it out. But the bottom line for me is it wasn't comfortable to drive plus my homefront agreement is one driver and one project. I'm just not a collector. So even if it had been the newer stretched cab version, probably still would have sold it to make room for another project. The Coupe wasn't going anywhere.

[rthomas98]

It was actually M1 concourse cars and coffee I took that. But the commentators said they liked the build and then spent most of the time talking about Dave Smith and Factory Five on the whole. But it was shown on TV for about 10 mins and you actually saw the guy from Vanguard sign for it when he won it. If you have the Max streaming app just watch the 8/16 episode and it is about an hour in.