Wiring Harness...YUK

[ggunter]

I worked like a fiend to complete all the sheet metal except the truck over the Labor Day holiday and now I want/have to install the wiring because I want to get the motor set. I'm not changing anything about the install other then I would like to move the fuse box (wiring length permitting ) to a more suitable place other than up under the footbox. Does anyone have any pics or recommendations for this. I'm all ears to this harness to make it easier. I love the plug and play feature but only if everything is long enough. I have a heater that has to go into the dash and was wondering if it can be moved more center to clear the glove box and still clear the air cleaner and also wipers. Lots of stuff in a little space. I know it's done but man it looks cramped in there.

[Big Blocker]

I installed mine on a swing-down panel just left of the steering column, front edge of dash is where the thumb screw is to hold it closed.

https://i.postimg.cc/6qcc2ZXG/Drop-Down-Fuse-Panel.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

This location makes it easy to access and gets it out of the "window frame post water leak" position.

Doc

[edwardb]

The stock location actually works just fine IMO. Have done several.

[egchewy79]

Curious why you think moving it to an area that has the heater and glovebox would be easier and/or less cramped. The stock location actually works just fine IMO. Have done several.

I think he's talking about moving the heater to make room for the glove box, not moving the fuse panel.

[edwardb]

I think he's talking about moving the heater to make room for the glove box, not moving the fuse panel.

OK. Edited my response.

[ggunter]

Actually want to move both, I want to move the fuse panel to a more desirable location and move the heater closer to the center of the dash butt don't know if that will cause clearance issues for the air cleaner.

[ggunter]

I like the drop down model, that cool.

[Jeff Kleiner]

As Paul “edwardb” said the intended location to the left of the steering shaft works fine. You’ll need to drop it to R& the windshield but that’s simply a matter of drilling 3 or 4 rivets or removing the same number of screws if you opt to use them rather than rivets. A whole lot easier than doing a redesign for no real benefit IMHO ;)

Jeff

[GTBradley]

I worked like a fiend to complete all the sheet metal except the truck over the Labor Day holiday and now I want/have to install the wiring because I want to get the motor set. I'm not changing anything about the install other then I would like to move the fuse box (wiring length permitting ) to a more suitable place other than up under the footbox. Does anyone have any pics or recommendations for this. I'm all ears to this harness to make it easier. I love the plug and play feature but only if everything is long enough. I have a heater that has to go into the dash and was wondering if it can be moved more center to clear the glove box and still clear the air cleaner and also wipers. Lots of stuff in a little space. I know it's done but man it looks cramped in there.
The heater can be installed with a full glovebox in its original location depending on the components in the engine bay. It might help to tell us what engine you’re going with and what might be in the way in the engine bay. Alternatively, you can create a signature line that has this and other info so you don't have to say it every time. Just a suggestion. I kept the heater where it was intended, but modified it with a Firewall Forward from FF Metal. I wrote the heater mod up on my build thread. Hope this helps.

[ggunter]

The engine is a 347 from Blueprint but I am running the long Cobra air cleaner.

[GTBradley]

I don’t know but I know those air cleaners mounted on a 347 extend under the body, so I‘m doubtful if that would allow enough room for the heater, but maybe someone can give you a firewall to cleaner measurement. I believe Papa (Dave) has that setup.

[Duster]

Stock firewall to read edge of air cleaner is 4.5"

[Avalanche325]

This location makes it easy to access and gets it out of the "window frame post water leak" position.

Doc

But then you have to manually fill the flasher. Mine was on auto-fill until I finally got it sealed.

[ggunter]

After reading the harness manual (which I should have done before making my post. When I opened the box and saw all the coiled snakes in the box I just wanted to close the lid.) I'm pretty impressed with the fit and function of the wiring harness. I did put a piano hinge on the fuse panel, mainly because I have a fused neck and bending my head in an upward position to look at something is almost non existent, so doing anything over head is a challenge. I got the harness run under the trans tunnel so I can install the engine so I can figure out where I can mount the heater so the motor doesn't hit the air cleaner which may or may not be an issue. I would love to be able to use the glove box but I'm not going to redesign the car to do it. It may end up being a registration holder only. I just saw a comment about water leakage from the windshield post. Is that an issue also?

[edwardb]

I just saw a comment about water leakage from the windshield post. Is that an issue also?

It's just something to be aware of and proactively address. The side bars for the windshield go through the body directly above the standard fuse panel location. Rain = water in the fuse panel = flashers fill up with water = no more turn signals or hazards. Guess how I know that? Two fixes: (1) After final assembly, put a healthy bead of clear silicone around the windshield post/body opening to seal it up. I put it in from the bottom. Some do it from the top. Either way. (2) If you're using LED lights, likely you'll be switching out the standard flashers for solid state ones. Those are typically sealed and don't take on water. At least the ones I've used have been. Even if you're not doing LED's, they're more reliable.

[ggunter]

Silicone to the rescue!!!

[Papa]

I don’t know but I know those air cleaners mounted on a 347 extend under the body, so I‘m doubtful if that would allow enough room for the heater, but maybe someone can give you a firewall to cleaner measurement. I believe Papa (Dave) has that setup.


Stock firewall to read edge of air cleaner is 4.5"

I get the same 4-1/2" measurement on my car.

Dave

[RBachman]

I'm using the FFMetal Firewall Forward Kit with a 347 and the long air cleaner. Using the FFR heater kit I wasn't able to center the heater enough to make a difference for the glovebox without changing the air-cleaner and over crowding that area. I kept the glovebox door, but beat out a shallow box from the old firewall and covered it with vinyl. However, with or without a heater or glovebox, I'd not do another one without the Firewall Forward Kit.