View Full Version : J pipe to shorty header connection
Just recently took my exhaust system apart to take the pieces in to be ceramic coated. When disconnecting the J pipes from the headers I had forgotten how difficult it was to tighten them down with the "deformed"(??) nuts that are used on these bolts. In loosening them, two of the bolts backed out of the headers instead of the nut being removed, and now I'm paying hell trying to remove the nut from those bolts. There's nowhere to tighten down on the bolt in a vice to try to force the nuts off. First off, does anyone have a suggestion for removing these nuts, and secondly, does anyone have a recommendation for nuts to replaced the deformed ones that will still be able to be tightened, and not loosen from vibration, but that aren't such a PITA to install, or remove. Truthfully, I don't think I ever want to have to deal with these nuts ever again! I know I'm loosing strength as I get older, but these things are ridiculous!
I'm a little confused as to what is really going on here, but I have a suggestion if my interpretation is correct. It if is not correct, just ignore me.
My j-pipe is connected to my shorty header via a machine bolt. No nut involved. whatever. The part I don't understand is why a header bolt would come out while trying to disconnect a j-pipe bolt. Let's assume we're dealing with header studs and they are your issue.
If you have a threaded rod, or stud, which is my interpretation, then put two nuts on the other end of it, tighten them against each other, put that in the vise and you should be able to remove the problematic nut with a wrench (or socket).
I hope I understood the issue; I hope this made sense and I hope my suggestion solves your problem!
mburger
09-07-2020, 03:35 PM
Agree with Al_C. Also put the two nuts that are together closer to the “deformed” nut yo are trying to remove so you dint twist or deform the rod.
steno
09-07-2020, 05:17 PM
Ok, I had the same issue. Jam two nuts together on the end that goes into the header. Put it in a vise TIGHT. The two nuts will protect the threads. Take a propane/map gas torch and heat that stubborn nut up really good! Put a socket on it ant buzz that sucker off!
egchewy79
09-07-2020, 05:18 PM
EZ$, I think I understand what you're talking about.
My nuts that attach to the stud connecting my J pipe and header are not one of those distorted ones.
However, I did have an issue with my stud backing out while I was trying to remove my J pipe for adjustments.
I have a washer and lock washer under this nut but might consider using some blue loctite on final assembly. I might also use some red loctite on the stud itself to prevent it from backing out. Not sure if the heat from the headers will melt the loctite anyway.
My shorty headers didn't come w/ the distorted nuts.
Guys, I think you are understanding my issue. The threaded end that screws into the shorty header unscrewed from the header instead of the nut that held the J pipe in place. I'll try the double nut method, along with heat to get the nut off the stud. If I used standard nuts, instead of the distorted ones, and I double nut it on, will that be as effective at avoiding loosening up with vibration? I really don't want to use thse damn things.
rich grsc
09-08-2020, 08:02 AM
Simple easy to do, cut the nut on both sides with a Dremel tool. Throw those crimped nuts as far as you can, do not use them on an exhaust system. Buy brass nuts and washers, when you install them, put a small dab of high temp silicone on the threads.
My advice to everyone, NEVER use a crimped head (stover) nuts on an exhaust system. They will almost always end up with corrosion around the threads, meaning they are almost impossible to remove without extreme force. I have snapped off the bolts before they would budge. The best nuts to use on exhausts are longe reach brass nuts. They don't corrode, and are not prone to vibrating loose.
Thank you Rich. I was hoping that there was an alternative. I guess I'm off to McMaster-Carr to do some shopping! Thanks to everyone for all the help.
steno
09-09-2020, 10:05 PM
I got sick of messing with the studs and removed them. Cleaned up the threads and used a grade 8 bolt with anti-seize. No problems!! Looks cleaner too!
Steno, did you just abandon the threads in the shorty headers, and use a bolt that would slide through the threaded hole? Did you need to double nut the connection to avoid them loosening from the vibration? I am weighing all these options while everything is at the powder coater. When I go to reinstall I don't want to have to bust a gut to get it back together! Thanks for the idea.
steno
09-10-2020, 09:21 AM
All I did was remove the studs, clean up the threads, and install a bolt with a flat washer. No double-nut. I did put a bit of anti-seize on the bolt Justin case.
steno
09-10-2020, 09:22 AM
Forgot to mention... bolt was same pitch/size as the stud.
OK, so I'm still waiting on the ceramic coating to be completed, but I wanted to get all my ducks in a row so that when I get the parts back I can put it back together. To that end, I took one of the header studs, that actually unthreaded when I tried to take the stover nuts off the other side, to see exactly what the thread size and pitch are. Of course, threading them into the bolt size tester at the hardware, the side that goes into the header, which is threaded, would not thread into either the 12x1.75M, or the 1/2x13 test threads very well. It starts to go into both, and it stops threading in after a few threads are caught. It seems to be a bit sloppy in the 1/2" test thread, and more solid in the 12x1.75, so I bought a bolt that size to test on the header. When I tried to insert it into the header threads, it did the same as it did at the store, went in part way, and then bound up. This is what I'm trying to avoid when I put it back together. Am I missing something? Do I need to get a tap that size and run it through the threads in the headers to clean them up? I obviously don't want to bugger things up, so if I am not addressing this properly please let me know.
The other side, that had the stover nuts on them, appears to be a 7/6x14 size, so I'll need to get nuts to double nut so that I can remove the two studs that stayed in place.
Anyhow, my head is about to explode, so any help you can provide is appreciated.
steno
09-20-2020, 04:36 PM
As I recall, the thread is metric. Call BBK... they’ll tell you for sure!
Thanks Steno. I was going back through the original paperwork when I bought the kit, and the info sheet was from Ford Performance. I suppose BBK could have been the original manufacturer, and Ford Performance was just private labeling them. Problem is, the part number doesn't come up when doing a search on the Ford site. Do you think it could be as simple as running a tap through the threads to clean them up to make a new bolt thread in easier? The 12x1.75 seemed to be closer than the 1/2x13.
steno
09-20-2020, 08:06 PM
Now that I think about it, I think I tapped the header with a 1/2” tap so I could use 1/2” bolts which are easier to get a hold of!
Thanks Steno. That's what I was wondering about. I guess the threads in the headers are designed to lock the stud in place just like the nuts that hold the J pipe to the studs. Since the metric size seems to match the existing threads closer, I may stick with that so that I maintain the majority of the thread depth. McMaster-Carr should have everything that I need, and I'm close enough so that I usually receive things from them by the next day. I'm going to use the brass nuts that Rich mentioned. I may even try to switch the J pipe to side pipe connectors to brass.