GT77 Gen 3 Coupe Build [Archive] - Factory Five Forums

GT77

09-03-2020, 11:11 PM

I figured I may as best get this started as the car arrived last week.

Background: I have been actively lurking on this and the "other" forum for years now (15+). Like many others here, first discovered FFR in the early 2000's. Was always impressed with them (compared to other vendors) as they actually had a real frame to the car. Watched the change from grey (as I recall - its been a while) to black gelcoat, then with the Gen2 in red. Thought I was going to jump on one of the Gen2's, but other projects and priorities took precedence so I waited (including building/modifying/racing other cars in the meantime). Then when the Gen3 was announced, I was excited to see the serious frame upgrade, and also with the changes in the body shape (rear arch/wheel wells especially). Last summer I was out in Boston on work so I made sure to make time to visit FFR and see/sit in one in person. And finally, last week Gen3 with my name on it showed up (and now the fun starts). And though I have never actually joined the forum until this point - many thanks in advance for the numerous good ideas shared/detailed by the very talented craftsmen here. Excited to start the madness with a very blank canvas that is just begging for some "fun" ideas. :cool:

Thanks
Thomas

David Williamson

09-04-2020, 07:36 AM

I will be first to welcome you
David W

edwardb

09-04-2020, 09:20 AM

I'll be second. ;) Welcome and congrats on your Coupe purchase and upcoming build. Finished mine earlier this year and have about 1,200 miles on it now. We love it. Link to my build thread in the sig line below. Good luck with yours!

Logan

09-04-2020, 01:53 PM

Welcome! If you’ve been following since the early 2000s (like I was), then you already have a pretty good handle on how these cars work, what it takes to build them, and how great the community is. You’re going to enjoy it here! Start a build thread so others can follow along with your progress from start to finish.

P.S. Have you picked a color yet? :)

GT77

09-05-2020, 10:40 AM

Thanks everyone for the warm welcome! I have used your build threads for inspiration and the nitty gritty details so thank you all for the impressive documentation on the builds.

Logan - color, that's been decided for a long time. Loved it every since I saw it on John Hudson's car back in the day.

PPG Titanium Poly
DBC 35989
OEM 210.600 Lamborghini

That is the long term plan at least, I have a number of modifications planned for the chassis, which means while I am sorting those out on the road, it may be "in primer" for a while.

Thanks,
Thomas

GT77

09-11-2020, 11:55 AM

Power plant acquired. Also managed to score a WC Mustang T-5 and an WC S10 T-5 to swap the tailhousing for better shifter location.
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GT77

09-13-2020, 10:38 AM

Got the S10 tail housing swapped onto the Mustang T-5 - much better shifter location.
Swapped the shifter so that I could use the Ford bolt on shifter with the S10 tailhousing.
Chopped the u-joint flanges off the original driveshaft to get shortened (if I can even call it a driveshaft, its almost just the length between the two joint flanges)

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Gordon Levy

09-13-2020, 01:10 PM

The T-5 midshift swap does not work in the gen 3. I did this for a customer in a very early gen3 build and the shifter was way too far forward. The standard shifter position works just fine in the gen 3 coupe.

GT77

09-13-2020, 11:49 PM

Gordon,

Thanks for the warning note, it's much appreciated! I will double check my measurements. I am not using the SBF or Coyote engine options (and by extension not using the FFR provided chassis engine mounts) which could account for some of the discrepancy that I saw in shifter locations.

Thanks,
Thomas

GT77

09-19-2020, 07:25 PM

Starting to the get the major components together.

Went with an aluminum flywheel for the engine. I have used engine/flywheel combo on previous (non-FFR) builds and while the lightweight flywheel does take more throttle modulation while starting from a stop, the rpm response is worth the slight decrease in street manners.
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Started fabricating the rear differential mounts.
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Went with a non-standard fuel tank. Took some hunting to find something that fit the space, but overall happy with the tank. It sits about 5/8" above the bottom edge of the fiberglass (not hanging below as I was trying to avoid that). Also increases the fuel capacity to 20 gallons and is EFI ready. Not that I am expecting the mild engine setup to be much of a fuel hog but any long drive it gives some reassurance and hopefully prevents me from checking the fuel gauge as I go past every gas station wondering if I will make the next one. The long term plan is to fabricate some drop boxes into the dead space between the tank and the rear bulkhead.
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Went with a non-standard pedal box setup (hmmm seems to be a theme with this particular post). The Wilwood box is nice, but I have my own bias towards the Tilton unit as I have used them previously and have been always impressed with the quality (and the price difference is basically negligible).

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GT77

09-20-2020, 11:16 PM

Power Steering:

Looking at using a electric power steering unit out of a 2005 Saturn Vue. Not sure how it would handle engine bay side heat (as the original placement in the car was under the dash), so looking at ways of installing it under the dash. It fits in the space but not without modifications. Will require moving the control box, modifying the firewall bearing setup, changing the aluminum side panels, and notching one of the tubes. This last change might not have been necessary, but it did lower the steering wheel angle and is being reinforced by the new mount so I hope it will turn out okay. As the u-pull yard charged the same price for just the bare column as they did for the entire surround including the key/turn signals/clock spring, etc, I grabbed the whole lot and test fit it as is. Not sure on the look (very modern), but did does supply all the necessary items (turn signal/lights, etc) and the clock spring allows for steering wheel mounted buttons if I choose. Thankfully the very center of the original steering wheel is a nice aluminum piece so I turned that down so I can adapt to the necessary steering wheel/quick release bolt pattern without needing to modify the splines at all.

Thanks,
Thomas

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GT77

09-22-2020, 11:21 PM

Finished fabricating the the electric power steering mount. To clear the intermediate shaft, I cut the original inner pedal box mount off and relocated the pedal box ~5/8" sideways to the outside of the car. This had an added benefit of moving the entire assembly over so that there is a little more room for the throttle pedal.

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While waiting on a few parts for the transmission, I started fitting the body. Instead of cutting notches out of the body, I slit the entire side and "bent" the fiberglass so that it reached a 45 degree angle. Now that I am happy with the look, I will reglass the steeper angle and finish the edges.

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David Ferguson

09-23-2020, 01:15 AM

Is that a Toyota / Lexus 1UZ-FE engine?

GT77

09-23-2020, 07:34 AM

David,

Well identified! I was curious if anyone would figure out the engine type (they aren't very common on this forum as far as I can tell). It is a 1999 1UZ-FE. It was a choice between that and the Coyote as I wanted a modern power plant that could rev to 7K+. I also have a previous experience with the 1UZ family, however this will be the first time dealing with VVTI and the odd half drive by wire scheme that they have on the engine. Long term will likely switch out of the Coyote, but as it was, I get a 310 ish HP engine for $400. Far cry cheaper than the coyote option so I will run this for a while.

Thanks,
Thomas

David Ferguson

09-23-2020, 10:23 AM

I spent way too long trying to figure it out... The starter in the V, shown in your pic of the flywheel was a clue -- there aren't too many engines that do that.

I think that engine may be about 80 lbs lighter than the coyote as well.

GT77

09-23-2020, 04:31 PM

Sorry about the goose chase - hopefully not too frustrating. People have mentioned their frustration with the starter in the V between the cylinder heads (as it requires pulling the intake to replace), but for how often starters go out - it sure is handy when trying to design headers or pack engines into really narrow engine bays. One of things I like most about the 1UZ family is just how smooth the engines are - very well balanced (not to mention, well maintained, and they easily hit 300k miles without a rebuild). Whenever I go to the junkyards, I always look at the mileage on them and most of the time they are 250k plus. This one had 175k on the clock which was higher than I wanted, but given the last 1UZ I swapped into a different project had 148k and still is running great, so I took the chance.

Thanks,
Thomas

GT77

10-18-2020, 12:19 PM

Transmission adapter finished. Very pleased with how it turned out. Now I can start finalizing the engine/transmission/differential mounts, exhaust, etc. Looking at using the Tilton 4000 series TOB (left over from another project).

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smithtlw

10-21-2020, 02:26 PM

Went with a non-standard fuel tank. Took some hunting to find something that fit the space, but overall happy with the tank. It sits about 5/8" above the bottom edge of the fiberglass (not hanging below as I was trying to avoid that). Also increases the fuel capacity to 20 gallons and is EFI ready. Not that I am expecting the mild engine setup to be much of a fuel hog but any long drive it gives some reassurance and hopefully prevents me from checking the fuel gauge as I go past every gas station wondering if I will make the next one. The long term plan is to fabricate some drop boxes into the dead space between the tank and the rear bulkhead.
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Build looks great so far. I like different. Wondering what tank you used?

Thanks - Todd

GT77

10-22-2020, 10:16 AM

Thanks for the kind words Todd!

Tank is a Tanks Inc - TM31-T. Designed for a 63 Impala (and various other 1961-64 GM B body cars). It does have the decently deep fuel injection sump which is a nice, but no other internal baffling which was a bit of disappointment. I am running the tank ~3-4 inches forward of the normal mustang fuel tank mounts. I am not using the stock rear suspension options offered, so I don't know how well it would fit with differential factored in. It appears to have plenty of room, but again I can't comment on that. I did have to bend the left side tab a bit further so I could tuck it closer to the left side and give more clearance for the filler neck. Also, I think technically I am running the tank backwards, but the sump design doesn't seem to have a directional bias.

Hope this helps.
Thanks,
Thomas

GT77

10-23-2020, 04:34 PM

Minor update: Got the transmission and engine bolted together and test fit. It's amazing how that engine bay looks massive until you actually get the engine installed and then you scratch your head wondering where all the space went. Also, started the body work for the main shell. Cleaned the wax out of the seams , used HSRF to fill the large holes, and the first two layers of Rage Gold are down and sanded to shape.

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GT77

11-28-2020, 01:03 AM

"Hey guys - I have a crazy idea -- hand me that sawzall"

..... some time later .....

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In less exciting news, got the filler finished on the main shell, still working on the nose. I would agree with others, the body looks a little rough when it arrives, but it is amazing how a little filler and some sanding and it actually looks pretty decent. It has required less filler than initially expected.

GT77

04-04-2021, 06:13 PM

Next piece of the puzzle figured out. Time to start chopping further into the frame.

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GT77

04-07-2021, 01:10 PM

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Removed most of the original front support and started to fabricate the lower front control arm mount/load transfer points. Still need to add the minor support members (0.75" square tubing, etc) but will likely will wait until the rest of the front suspension is fabricated.

GT77

04-09-2021, 11:17 PM

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Finished chopping out the last of the original front cross members (hopefully that is the last major piece to be cut out). Fabricated the X fill panel.

GT77

04-11-2021, 10:40 AM

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Fabricated some additional cross members to mount the underside transmission tunnel panel. Looking at using this instead of the normal cover panel and gain some additional space under the dash.

Started to modify the RH footbox to make more space for the HVAC.

GT77

04-16-2021, 12:06 AM

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Started to fabricate the rear suspension and differential support structure. Got the driveshaft length determined - 6.5" center to center of the u-joints.

GT77

04-22-2021, 10:57 PM

Threw the chassis on the rotisserie. Arguably not completely necessary, but it makes welding and modifying the undercarriage much easier. Filled the open ends of the lower square tubing (plus the center vertical tubes - not shown)

Removed the original firewall bearing support and fabricated the support for the Saturn Vue EPAS intermediate shaft.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146814&d=1619147742

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146816&d=1619147856

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146817&d=1619149530

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146818&d=1619149547

GT77

05-01-2021, 03:41 PM

Cut out the floor seat support. Welded another 1.5 SQ" to be the forward seat support.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147165&d=1619901204

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147169&d=1619901247

Fabricated the rear shock mounts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147168&d=1619901236

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147166&d=1619901217

GT77

05-10-2021, 09:47 AM

Fabricated a number of additional fill panels. Focus on weatherproofing the exterior tubing/seams and allowing for heat/sound insulation. Looking at bonding closed cell foam board (XPS) between the sandwich of the two aluminum panels.

Outside Rear bulkhead
Transmission tunnel X cross member
Floor pan (the other reason I added the 1.5 square tubing in lieu of the factory supplied mounting plate)

The last two have the added benefit of cleaning up the undercarriage. Guessing the aerodynamic effect is fairly minor overall, but still a nice side benefit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147609&d=1620656393

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147607&d=1620656017

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147608&d=1620656023

P100DHG

05-10-2021, 10:05 AM

Give us some background on why you’re doing some of these frame modifications. I don’t have a racing background but I’m interested in understanding. Why put the rear shocks horizontally and why reservoirs? along with other modifications? Maybe you can take some wider photos too, some are hard to understand the context even though the frame is very familiar to me. Thanks! I’m excited to learn more.

PS. Love the belly pan, I’ve been wanting to do the same.

q4stix

05-10-2021, 04:27 PM

I'm a little confused on some of the frame modifications too so any input will help or if you have a reference image of a setup you're mimicking. I'm going all wheel drive with pushrods and bellcranks front and rear and not having to do nearly as many modifications.

I'm still looking forward to more progress though!

Erik W. Treves

05-10-2021, 11:01 PM

the shock mounts look like they are in single shear? or is this too early to comment...

GT77

05-10-2021, 11:19 PM

Thanks for the comments and questions! Hopefully a few useful answers.

P100DHG (quick sidenote - love the color on your car - looks really good).
1) Horizontal Shocks (as q4stix alluded to) - targeting a cantilever suspension setup with bellcranks (rockers). The packaging doesn't always necessitate horizontal placement, but I am on the 4th major revision on the rear suspension design for this car and overall, it just worked the best given all the other space constraints. Why cantilever? 3 main reasons pushed me in that direction. 1) shock to wheel motion ratios. Cantilever (or derivatives) are the only practical way to achieve high shock to wheel motion ratios. This allows the more movement in the shock making valving and tuning adjustments finer/sensitive and easier (i.e. you have more distance for the shock valving to work over leading to less "aggressive" valving for the same shock velocity curves). The travel on the shocks is 7 inches - I am looking at a motion ratio in the 1.1-1.2 range. 2) ride height is "independent" of spring preload. Its not really, but with the push rods (pull rod in this case) you can change the ride height without changing the preload on the spring (again - within certain margins as each tire does have an effect on the others). This makes dialing the corner weights and preload on each shock easier to make consistent. 3) Adjustability. With a simple change on the bellcranks you can modify the effective motion ratio and therefore the force vs travel profile - I am not looking to change the main shock to wheel, but when it comes to adding sway bars, this is easier to hit the numbers without being completely locked in.

2) Reservoirs on the shocks. These are 3 way adjustable shocks (rebound + low and high speed compression). This style of design typically use an external reservoir. Ideally they would have been mounted to the shock body without the remote line, but most of the time you don't have the rear differential/shock/rear suspension as easily accessible as on Type 65. Being universal, most commonly (Ridetech, JRI, Penske,etc) you see a extension to the remote reservoir that you mount in a place that you can easily reach the adjustment knobs (both compression knobs are on the remote reservoir and only the rebound is on the main body of the shock). I have seen RideTech Triples/remote reservoirs on two other Factory Five Coupes (albeit with factory mounting points as far as I could tell).

3) Context. Sorry, I was actually trying to capture the 4 rear fill panels but the shocks were in the way :)

4) Other modifications. With the exception of the number of changes for the front suspension (which spoiler: will also be using a cantilever suspension), most others were to facilitate non-performance related changes/component preference. More room in the footbox/under the dash for HVAC, Electric power steering, and weather proofing, etc.

q4stik,
Most of the frame changes for suspension can be lumped into two major reasons 1) Motion ratios (the extended length of the shock eye to eye is 20") and this necessitated some interesting packaging with everything else. I wanted very high and progressive (increasing motion ratio with dive motion) motion ratios with made things worse (progressive MR were the reason for using a pull rod vs push rod design). 2) I am not using the stock LCA's/spindles/uprights. This allows me to push the separation between ball joints further apart and I am designing for longer LCA's (with non symmetrical design so I get caster gain as I dive the front suspension deeper). Sadly, I don't have any pictures that shed more light on the design yet, but hopefully, in the next month or so I will be able to finally finish the details of both sides and start getting parts cut out and have something to show for it all.

Thanks,
Thomas

P100DHG

05-10-2021, 11:41 PM

Thomas,

I’m mind blown, this sounds really cool and very sophisticated, I am soaking this up like a sponge. Love it. Like Q4stik’s build I am going to be on the edge of my seat and amazed by the engineering you guys are pulling off.

-Danny

GT77

05-10-2021, 11:54 PM

Wipers:
While at the pulling yard, I managed to score a set of thread post style wiper blades (1978 Toyota Pickup). They need to be shortened, but for 10$ for the stems, arms, and entire transmission linkage setup, seemed like a cheap gamble to see whether it would pan out. I will need to use some HSRF to fill the void, but so far they look like a win (plus I liked the vintage look and feel to them)

Fabricated the firewall seal for the EPAS using the OEM saturn vue column seal (which conveniently fit with some 2.125"ish thin wall tubing that I had lying around). I decided to move the main support out (unlike previously pictured) to nearly the end of the steering link to minimize the mount of side flex at the u-joint and if I decide to keep the tilt adjustment on the original column, it minimizes the angle change.

Cut the mounting surface and dropped the body on the frame by 5/8-3/4. I had been looking at adding a lower door seal anyway, and this allowed me to tighten the gap between tires and the body without actually lowering the frame any closer to the ground. This is a lot of cascading effects, but will take them one at a time.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147664&d=1620707340

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147665&d=1620707340

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147666&d=1620707340

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147663&d=1620707340

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147662&d=1620707340

GT77

05-11-2021, 12:22 AM

Eric,
It will be double shear, just haven't finished fabricating the other half of the mount. Needed to verify spring clearances before having a number of pieces fabricated so it was sufficient for those purposes. Thanks for raising the concern though and watching out for others - those 1/2" bolts don't stand a chance in single shear. (I am impressed you have time given all the other builds you have going - good luck with the F9R and the GTM - they are looking good!)

Danny,
Thanks! - don't sit too close to the edge. :) The updates will likely take a while to piece together.

Thanks,
Thomas

David Williamson

05-11-2021, 08:04 AM

Cool stuff, lowering the body to close up the wheel gaps is going to make it look better.
David W

GT77

11-22-2021, 11:26 PM

Got most of the preliminary structure around the fuel tank figured out. Decided to not run the tank reverse and instead will be using the stock LH filler neck orientation. Made the fuel pump piping easier, and put the filler at the back of the tank so I could slide it forward without hitting the existing framework.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156859&d=1637641076

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156857&d=1637641076

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156858&d=1637641076

GT77

12-05-2021, 11:30 PM

A few more details on the tank install.

Still need to weld in doublers and use a 5/16 bolt, but the drill rod was sufficient for mockup. Picked up Breeze's Aero Cap ( and installed in a LH filler neck configuration). Still debating whether to flush mount the edge (i.e. sinking it down 3/16" into the fiberglass or leaving it as is), but l have a while before paint so planning on running it around for a bit before going more crazy with it (its pretty flush as is). Fabricating the full depth drop boxes (behind the tank ~ 10-11" wide) is on the to do, but likely another item pushed to the non-critical for operation/driving list.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158309&d=1638763591

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158307&d=1638763591

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158308&d=1638763591

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158306&d=1638763591

Straversi

12-06-2021, 12:40 PM

How have I missed this build thread? Happy to have found it and caught up this weekend. Cool stuff, keep it coming.
-Steve

GT77

12-12-2021, 05:37 PM

Thanks Steve!

Had to redo the right side pedal box mount (first attempt did clear the steering shaft, but you couldn't remove it without removing the entire EPAS system). While there isn't much room, it is now possible to disassemble the entire system without pulling the EPAS unit first. I also improved the load transfer (vertical load from the front bolts is no longer cantilevered like the previous design). The pictures are slightly deceiving as there is at least ~5/16"+ clearance between the steering and the pedal box tabs.

Finished modifying the transmission mount. The driveshaft position relative to the ford 8.8 IRS (not stock setup) required removing the brackets for the existing e-brake on the tunnel side. On the bright side, otherwise there appears enough clearance in the tunnel for all the other piping that will need to pass through - or at least hopefully..

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158523&d=1639347213

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158524&d=1639347213

GT77

04-20-2025, 09:05 PM

I am not great at keeping this thread updated. The build continues slowly. A few updates in no particular order.

Front suspension box - started as flat sheet
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212842&d=1745196747

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212843&d=1745196747

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212844&d=1745196747

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212845&d=1745196747

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212846&d=1745196893

Switched radiators - was looking for a shorter option (set slightly higher) that was thinner and off the shelf - ended up with a 90s corvette. Took the 2015 Mustang fan assembly that I had and chopped it to bits to fit the new radiator.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212841&d=1745196747

GT77

04-20-2025, 09:06 PM

And one of the longer-term projects - I wanted a beefier AC setup than stock. However, as has been discussed at length - the options for fitting something more than the smaller "stock" system are tricky at best. I have seen other builds fitting vintage air, but I opted for the painful and slow route of building my own. Finding the evaporator was the tricky part, but after a long string of parts from various vehicles and many hours with solidworks and more time on a 3D printer - something along these lines shows up.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212849&d=1745196893

The Front "plate for the heater side isn't show in this image, but looks similar to the previous prototype below.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212848&d=1745196893

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212858&d=1745200631

Required modifying the footbox and panels.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212861&d=1745208873

And final update - deciding on the tail-light layout. A number of iterations later, but pretty settled on this.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212851&d=1745196943

GT77

04-20-2025, 10:54 PM

Missed a picture from the front suspension - the battery box integrated into the assembly.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212847&d=1745196893

GT77

05-06-2025, 09:04 AM

My modifications to the height of the body relative to the frame have the unfortunate side effect of needing to trim all the vertical panels. Here is the forward firewall. Made a quick scribing tool and trimmed down the panel. Still need to take another 5/16 off the height to account for the bulb seal, but overall happy with the fit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213443&d=1746539856
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213444&d=1746539856
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213453&d=1746539917
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213454&d=1746539917

GT77

05-06-2025, 09:10 AM

Modeled and printed a panel angle adapter for the windshield wipers. Likely will use some HSRF to secure the adapter will prevent any from getting on the original threads.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213446&d=1746539856
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213445&d=1746539856

GT77

05-06-2025, 10:56 PM

Fabricated (modeled/printed with ABS) the rear surround for the reverse lights (~2005 Mini Cooper S). They snap into the housing and sit nearly flush with the rear panel. They just barely clear the rear frame.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213447&d=1746539890
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213448&d=1746539890
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213449&d=1746539890
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213450&d=1746539890
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213451&d=1746539890

Skuzzy

05-07-2025, 04:58 AM

Very nice. What printer was it? The layer lines appear very clean. I am doing similar things for the fog, backup, turn signal, parking, and tail lights for my build. I have a Prusa MK4S and have switched to ASA for the external parts.

GT77

05-07-2025, 09:18 AM

Thanks! Bambu Lab P1S using ABS (have considered ASA but haven't tried it yet). 3D printers definitely open a new dimension on these builds (however, the lure of "cool" modifications is why mine is still not on the road ... a catch 22).

Skuzzy

05-07-2025, 10:39 AM

That's a nice printer. I did upgrade the MK4S (upgraded from MK4) with the case. Pretty much need an enclosure to reliably print any of the high temperature filaments.

I know what you mean about "mod fever". It is so easy to create special bezels, mounts, brackets, logos and so on that it does add a measure to the build time. Still, it sure makes life easier. Not having to "find" a part when you can make it yourself is just too cool. :)

What design software are you using?

GT77

05-07-2025, 07:31 PM

Completely agreed on having a case for printing high temp materials. I tried ABS on an open frame printer and it was an exercise in frustration at best. It is a lot of fun designing parts for the car and yes, sometimes nearly irreplaceable. I actually had cut the original light surround out of the Mini Cooper bumper to integrate, but it wasn't flat, wrong angle for the coupe and the light was somewhat loose in the surround. The printed part checks all of the boxes. I am using Solidworks.

Skuzzy

05-08-2025, 05:52 AM

Well damn. I wish I could afford Solidworks. Good on you! It does not get much better than that software. On using ASA, once you get dialed in to it, you will never go back to ABS.

GT77

05-14-2025, 11:04 PM

Yeah, its pricey (and likely worse these days). I am using a very old version of Solidworks from back in a former life when I was consulting. It doesn't have all of the new features (surface modeling has improved significantly in the last 15 years) and I long ago lost the ability to bring in the Mcmaster models (sad day), but it does the job for most everything I still use it for. Good to know about ASA, will look at trying that next. I picked up a roll of glass reinforced ABS which supposedly has less shrinkage issues due to each layer being held in place (or helped) by the previous layers underlying glass fibers. Will see how that goes.

And speaking of fiberglass - started making some of the more significant changes to the hood that I have been planning at for a while. I probably shouldn't be trusted around cutting tools, but thankfully the wife picked up a very appropriate t-shirt that basically describes the situation.

The plan is to have a front removable clip (but losing the full hood tilt functionality) with a smaller "hood" for regular maintenance and the foot boxes having an accessory access panel. My original concepts for the "hood" still show in the blue tape, but I like where the design has landed. Decided that the longer hood made it more complex for hinging and support while not really increasing my access to any key areas, so I shortened it to behind the radiator exhaust duct. Removed most of the doubler shell as 1) no longer needed as the front clip has more localized support and 2) allowed me to straighten the hood (the doubler was causing some twist - almost like the doubler was installed outside of the original mold) so the front alignment with the frame is better 3) loses about ~10 lbs in the front shell.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213786&d=1747280001
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213785&d=1747280001
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213784&d=1747280001

Skuzzy

05-15-2025, 11:06 AM

Well, I am using the last free version of SketchUp 2017, which cannot export STL's. So I have to export to DAE and then use FreeCad to load that and export to STL. That version of SketchUp does not have sphere or cone primitives, so I use Blender to create those primitives.

Wanna trade? :D

When I need structural items I have been using PC+CF. I have a hardened steel nozzle for those filaments. I have found ASA to be more stable than ABS was, so I only use augmented ASA for structural components which would be exposed to sunlight. I do run the cabinet temperature up to 30C before printing those higher end filaments. That has helped quite a bit. When printing TPU, I use an obsidian nozzle which does not heat soak which causes problems with folding the filament inside the tube during retraction and insertion cycles.
Switching nozzles takes less than a minute as I have them mounted in their own heating element. Pop open the cover, unplug the heating element and loosen the two thumbscrews to drop the assembly out of the printer and replace. I do like that about the MK4.

When I first saw your picture and before I read the text, I thought you might be doing what I am with my hood. I am cutting hole, similar to yours, but not for a hood. I need to raise my hood 2 inches to clear the air filter assembly. My hood came without the inner liner, which is fine as I am tossing the FF supplied hinges and making my own articulated hinges which will raise an move the hood forward as it comes up. That way it can go 90 degrees and clear the ground as well.
I'll be using a servo motor to lift and lower the hood. Not sure if the motor will a linear motor or a rotating one using an ACME screw.

burchfieldb

05-16-2025, 09:35 PM

Skuzzy

05-17-2025, 09:46 AM

Curious to see what you come up with for the hood hinge. I am planning on doing the same, likely some type of 4 bar linkage.

I am curious what I come up with as well. Still sussing that out. Coming up with something which works with a motor and can work manually as well is an interesting challenge.

GT77

05-25-2025, 01:43 AM

Good luck you guys with the linkage on the hood challenge - it's not easy. I look forward to seeing your designs unfold. I originally went down this route for the same reasons you both mentioned. I didn't get very far with the 4-bar (was iterating towards a 6-bar arrangement or geared 5 bar) but I never found one that seemed to tick all the boxes. One of my design goals was also to achieve a motion profile that allowed a better seal around the radiator ducting. This likely was my own downfall as it was especially challenging. In the end (as hinted at above), I abandoned the idea and went with a "could be removed for significant service" cowling with a number of screws holding the entire front clip in place (removing the entire tilt hood mechanism at the same time) and use the hood arrangement as shown above for the regular access Again, I wish you guys better success than I had and look forward to seeing the designs.

Minor updates - the existing wiper arms that I got off the old toyota pickup were too long. Considered many different ways to shorten them, but in the end just got new ones that already have the option to adjust the length. Required fabricating a taper to straight spline adapter which I tried 3D printing with glass reinforced ABS (100% infill). Time will tell if I need to have some machined out of brass or aluminum, but given that I could start to bend the metal arms and the 3D printed splines were not shearing was encouragement to say the least. I don't plan to need them that often (if at all) so they just need to work well enough for rain (no snow) and stay together at speed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214299&d=1748152922
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214300&d=1748152922

Started fabricating the rear exhaust. Was originally planning to use a single muffler with the dual in/out arrangement (placed between the tank and the rear panel), but unfortunately, most of the options on the market were just slightly too long. It seems that shorty versions of the dual in/out arrangement that aren't just "race" mufflers are hard to come by. Switched plans and sacrificed part of the planned full drop trunk and placed them below the rails that the "normal" ford fuel tanks mount against. Still leaves me with ~ 8-10 of trunk underneath so giving this option a go. The mufflers remain tucked inside the original bodywork so I quite happy with that. One of the best (and worst) parts about these cars is there are generally few decisions that cannot be changed in the future. Just takes time/money (unfortunately).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214301&d=1748152922
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214305&d=1748154323
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214304&d=1748152945

Fabricating (mocking up) the rear wing mounts. The general concept isn't new (seen it on a few other builds already). Basically, the rear spoiler will mount with a set of "blades" protruding into the space behind the rear bulkhead. They will screw into the plates being added. If a wing is substituted (hopefully a future upgrade) will plan to use those same mounts for the wing vs the normal method of punching large holes in the rear fiberglass. Need to get these which are currently just plastic test pieces into mild steel.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214303&d=1748152945
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214302&d=1748152945

Skuzzy

05-27-2025, 04:21 PM

Curious to see what you come up with for the hood hinge. I am planning on doing the same, likely some type of 4 bar linkage.

Here is a rough idea I had. Keep in mind I have no idea where the hood mounts to the hinge as my hood did not come with any inside panel, which I am told also has the mount points. So I have to create my mount points. I am not in a position to place the hood on the frame yet, so I have no idea if this will even fit.

My goal is to have the hood move forward as it starts to lift so it will easily clear the firewall. The move the hood higher as it arcs to vertical so it will clear the ground. This design is rough, but I like the idea as it provides an easy way to modify the lift profile and I think it will provide more lateral strength than a typical multi-link design. Of course, if it will not fit, then its back to the drawing board.

By the way GT77, sorry for intruding on your build thread. Another thread should be started if there is a chance this will work. This particular design will raise the hood about 3".
214372

burchfieldb

05-27-2025, 06:06 PM

Skuzzy

05-27-2025, 08:44 PM

Nice, I have only had mine on once, so I have not looked at the space much. The hood hinge brackets mount to the fog light buckets and then to a couple of heim joints on the frame. What are you planning on using for the sliding part?

214373214374

Hmm. I need to look at that. Not crazy about those brackets mounted to the buckets. Not sure what you are asking about when you referenced the sliding part. The part that pivots is hollow and the square shaft with the mounting pad on it slides through it.

I attached a cross section of the tube. The two dark shades are Delrin strips to act as the bearings for the slider.
214379

edwardb

05-27-2025, 09:27 PM

Nice, I have only had mine on once, so I have not looked at the space much. The hood hinge brackets mount to the fog light buckets and then to a couple of heim joints on the frame.

214373214374

The kit provided hood hinges mount to the headlight buckets and the front underbody. They are very secure when mounted that way. I'm totally mystified (sound of head slap) why after all this time Factory Five hasn't corrected the angle so the hinges fit properly. For those that weld, they cut and correct them. I don't weld, so made wedges that fill out the incorrect angle.

GT77

06-11-2025, 09:00 PM

The kit provided hood hinges mount to the headlight buckets and the front underbody. They are very secure when mounted that way. I'm totally mystified (sound of head slap) why after all this time Factory Five hasn't corrected the angle so the hinges fit properly. For those that weld, they cut and correct them. I don't weld, so made wedges that fill out the incorrect angle.

My kit was a 2020 vintage but I still have to cut and fill (weld) ~5/16"+ wide gap once the angle was corrected. I agree this seems like an odd oversight.

Minor update - High mount tail-light ( P/N courtesy of edwardb's build - thanks!). I opted to mount it under the glass. Will finalize the deflector dimensions (and add an arc to the top to match) once the glass is mounted.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214920&d=1749692712

Mounted the front clearance/turn signal lights. I picked up a 3rd light for each side and pushed them higher on the light surround than I have seen on most builds. This may be a long shot/unnecessary, but hoping that gives better visibility to the lights..
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214919&d=1749692712

GT77

06-16-2025, 10:57 AM

Making progress on the dash. Wanted the gauges recessed a bit as well as a slight upwards angle for better viewing. Started with just a basic recess, but wasn't completely happy with the effect. Enjoy a few iterations of the design.

Basic recess
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215183&d=1750088686

All the iterations so far:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215184&d=1750088686
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215185&d=1750088686

The current favorite - (the bottom left in the above is a very close second - still debating whether I like the solid vertical separator between the clusters or the concave effect)
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=215186&d=1750088686

JimStone

06-16-2025, 02:20 PM