Meyer 818 build in Tampa Bay Area

[Scott Meyer]

Greetings!

Returning to the Factory Five family and “we” are building our 2nd FFR.

I say “we” loosely as this is my son’s (Liam) build he is doing for his Engineering Capstone project and one heck of a design portfolio for college admissions. My wife and I are funding his dream.

A little about us...we started building a roadster back in 2008 when my son was 5 1/2 years old. Graduated in 2010...sold it late in 2011.

https://www.ffcars.com/threads/please-graduate-ffr-6583-grad-28.251449/

Ended up restoring a few daily drivers after that (with full new leather interior and repainted myself).

And then I got back into Aviation. Fulfilled my 2nd lifelong dream and built my own airplane from a kit made by Sonex (based in Oshkosh, WI).

h ttps://sonexbuilders.net/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=706 (https://sonexbuilders.net/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=706)

After building, owning and flying this for over 6 years, I sold N629SX last fall...and now own a 1966 Cessna 182J that am slowly restoring (certified aircraft are much harder, and expensive to work on).

So fast forward to a few weekends ago when we pulled the trigger on the 818S project. We bought a running daily driver 2007 2.5l Impreza Wagon, with just over 104k on the odometer. I drove the car home about 50 miles and felt confident it was running well and no major issues. That night my son began the tear down.
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He’s documenting his work via instagram and some other social media thing teenagers are good at. Follow him on IG at “meyer818racing”

http://https://www.instagram.com/p/CEmGjjfBq9S/?igshid=y51370f74vca (https://www.instagram.com/p/CEmGjjfBq9S/?igshid=y51370f74vca)

The kit will be a street car / show car (as he calls it). Ordered the carbon fiber splitters, spoiler, black FFR wheels, wipers, trunk kit and soft top. Expected completion date from FFR is 11/7/20.

Can’t wait to see his progress and get the kit here. His friends from high school have been over almost every night assisting with the donor tear down. Biggest challenge I’ve seen is “organization, cataloging and labeling”. He’s taking lots of pictures and I’m trying to act mostly as technical advisor.

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[Rob T]

Welcome. I wish I could have had that kind of opportunity when I was young. How awesome. Good luck.

[idf]

Great project. My son built an 818 with me when he was in high school. He is now just up the highway from you at Case Western where he is a junior ME major and active member of the Baja SAE team. I'm sure he would be glad to lend any advice or assistance he can.

[Frank818]

Welcome, man!

What made you pull the trigger on the 818? And why the S vs the C?

[egchewy79]

Awesome! I'm in Dublin as well. Currently working on a MK4. just had my first start. Would love to see the project sometime

[Scott Meyer]

Thanks for all of the welcomes and replies! egchewy79, we should get meet up! I finished my Mk 3 here in Dublin 10 years ago...would be great to see where you’re at with the build. Let me know if you need any help with body work or paint? I did my own and then refinished two cars and an airplane after my Roadster build.

[Scott Meyer]

Welcome, man!

What made you pull the trigger on the 818? And why the S vs the C?

Frank,

It’s not going to be a daily driver, and the soft top makes it a good compromise. Finally my wife said “oh, you’ve got to build a convertible...” so who can argue with that. She ultimately said “just do it”! She remembers the pain the Cobra was without a top, but loves open air cars.

[egchewy79]

Thanks for all of the welcomes and replies! egchewy79, we should get meet up! I finished my Mk 3 here in Dublin 10 years ago...would be great to see where you’re at with the build. Let me know if you need any help with body work or paint? I did my own and then refinished two cars and an airplane after my Roadster build.
I was planning on having Jeff Kleiner to my body and paint.
PM me if you want to meet up to take a look at the project. I'd be glad to hear some tips from a seasoned pro.

[Scott Meyer]

I was planning on having Jeff Kleiner to my body and paint.
PM me if you want to meet up to take a look at the project. I'd be glad to hear some tips from a seasoned pro.

You can’t go wrong with Jeff! Good choice...I met Jeff back in 2008 at Gateway Raceway in STL and quickly became a friend.

[Scott Meyer]

Welcome, man!

What made you pull the trigger on the 818? And why the S vs the C?

Hi this is Liam, I don't have my own account yet but here's the reasoning, living in Midwest Ohio it didn't seem fitting to get the C, we chose the S for a few reasons.

It's easier to build the S (this is my first time ever really building a car), it was the cheaper option, it's going to be a show car/ weekend car so we'll hopefully have a nicely done interior to show off, and I liked the look of the S more over the C, the C is beautiful, but I love convertibles and it's going to be a summer car so no reason to put a roof on it.

[Scott Meyer]

Major progress tonight, the drivetrain is OUT! Darn rusted bolts on the suspension lower brace frame, and engine mount frames made this really enjoyable...not. Heat, breaker bar and a sawzall became our savior.

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Liam also removed all of the interior and wiring harness yesterday.

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Also have become a new customer of RockAuto.com. Have ordered and received all new aluminum lower control arms, all four brake calipers, flywheel, clutch, timing belt and water pump kit and new oil pan (exist one is pretty rusty). Also got replacement plugs, wires and gaskets for the engine so Liam can do a cosmetic tear down and paint clean up. We are sending the oil sample to Blackstone labs to get a baseline on our 2.5i NA engine which has 104,000 miles.

[Frank818]

RockAuto has some great deals on many parts, they ship usually fast and they have a surprising way to handle order issues, like if you received something damaged, missing or wrong part... it's extremely efficient! I received 6 plugs, 2 were the wrong part #, I went through their online questionnaire, all was flawless, they shipped the missing 2 plugs without asking for anything and shipped within 24h if I recall.

I reckon their website SUCKS, it's very very very old UI, but it works.

[Scott Meyer]

A little more progress this week. After further investigation of the rear suspension I’ve ordered all three new LCA’s for both rear wheels. On my previous build (Mk 3.1 roadster) I did a complete kit...and the difference between all new suspension parts and trying to recondition 13 year old Midwest/east coast rust is a no brainer. We will clean and repaint the spindles and go to new parts from there.

Liam started tearing down the engine intake and coolant cross tube, and I’ve introduced him to an air power angle die grinder with the mini disc pads. He’s been having fun cleaning up the engine and transmission. Also have the front struts removed.

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Now I get to help with some of my skills, laying down some paint on the coolant tube and intake.

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As we continue to prepare the donor parts...we started asking some questions this week amongst ourselves...and wanted to ask the FFR forum community.

How hard is it to keep these OEM features:
1. Power steering (is it even needed - or follow build manual?)
2. Power brakes / ABS? Or stick with converted brake master cylinder?
3. Retaining the A/C and using the Vintage Air system nicely documented by AZPete?
4. How do you flash out / reprogram the ECU to remove items not used in the build (Air bags, electronics, etc)?

We just got a repair manual today with wiring diagrams...and after wiring up my roadster and experimental Sonex aircraft this doesn’t freak me out (the wiring and wire diet).

Thanks,
Scott

[Ajzride]

1) I don't think power steering is needed, I have no trouble turning mine, even in parking lots. I can't imagine a healthy teenager would have any issues
2) Very few have done power brakes, definitely not needed if you lose ABS. I don't know how ABS would affect the feel of the pedal.
3) Vintage Air is well documented, easiest route. I used Restomod Air because I wanted excess cooling capacity, it's hot in Houston.
4) RomRaider is the open source solution for tuning the ECU and disabling CEL codes. Requires a Subaru specific cable which is about $100. http://www.romraider.com/index.php/Documentation/TuningFAQ

[Jetfuel]

Totally agree with AJ's comments with the exception of the a/c...it's a convertible... but I may be partial to them since 3 out of my 4 rides are convertibles not counting my bride's not top car.lol
I have a hard top for mine but it's only used when the temps go down not up.
You're just down the road Scott and if I get an invite I'll love to see this project and may even try to talk Art Quillen into a short drive that way..

Jet

[Scott Meyer]

Thanks Jet! Yeah we’d love to come see your 818’s over in Indy. I have a Cessna 182 that we could fly over to visit some weekend if that’s okay? Our kit is not scheduled to arrive until mid-Nov pending Stewart Transports schedule. We considered driving to Wareham and renting a Trailer to tow the kit home...but my wife and son drive to Providence last summer (2019) and she said it was the drive from hell, without a trailer.

[Scott Meyer]

Thanks AJ! Good to bounce ideas and check with actual builders!

We’ve ordered the soft top, and summers here in Columbus OH can be pretty brutal and humid...even with the top off A/C feels good!

[Mark Eaton]

Scott, Thanks for starting this thread I will be following closely as I am starting a similar build (818C) with my teenager(14yo). You two clearly have more build experience than Nick and I so I will probably be rattling your chain for advice from time to time!

Mark

[Jetfuel]

Heck yeah...just VFR to KEYE and it's always in the parking lot of the FBO...or I'll drive your way..lol

Jet

[AZPete]

Scott, it was easy to add power steering. All I did was take the donor lines to a hydraulic shop so they could put the ends on the longer lengths I needed. Then, I used the donor rack, pump & reservoir. I did it to see if I could and it worked nicely, but probably not necessary.

For ABS, I duplicated the donor system and it worked very well, especially when a Prius stumbled out of a hidden driveway one day! I think ABS is sort of like seat belts - totally useless until suddenly needed.

[aquillen]

Scott, I'm enjoying your build too. Heck I like everyone of them. Would be fun for me and Jet to both drive over, or if you "drop" (OMG not literally) into Eagle Creek Airport I'd run down to join the fun.

[Scott Meyer]

Scott, I'm enjoying your build too. Heck I like everyone of them. Would be fun for me and Jet to both drive over, or if you "drop" (OMG not literally) into Eagle Creek Airport I'd run down to join the fun.

Art and Jet, lets do it! I’m just in the final stages are redoing the interior on our 182...trying to make a 54 year old aircraft look new! What does your schedules look like over the next couple of weekends while the “fall” weather is beautiful? It’s a 1-hour flight from KMRT (Union County Airport) and I can shoot the instrument approach into Eagle Creek for proficiency!

Some pictures of my other project...my wife is doing The sewing.

Before:
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In-progress...
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Installed with new carpet and sound deadening pad:
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[Jetfuel]

Scott. Check your in box

Jet

[Scott Meyer]

Nice talking to you yesterday Jet! If the weather looks good we’ll be there for Oct. 10! I took my wife up to Port Clinton today to have lunch at the Tin Goose Diner and visit the Liberty Aviation Museum. The interior of N2800F is coming back together.
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[Jetfuel]

Same here Scott..looking forward to see you here for the Pumpkin 10K cruise..
If you feel the need for another flight adventure check the Wright Brothers B flyer hangar over at Dayton airport (KMGY) way cool ... they may even let you fly it...

Jet

[Sdonnel]

Hey Scott,
Welcome back. My son, Zach and I met you way back in 08. Awesome to see you building another FFR. Zach and I built a mk4 a couple years back. Now he’s on to a 93 RX-7. Tell Liam we said hello. Your ever patient wife as well.

Scott & Zach Donnelly

[Scott Meyer]

Hey Scott,
Welcome back. My son, Zach and I met you way back in 08. Awesome to see you building another FFR. Zach and I built a mk4 a couple years back. Now he’s on to a 93 RX-7. Tell Liam we said hello. Your ever patient wife as well.

Scott & Zach Donnelly

Hi Scott, I remember our trip to Mid-Ohio to watch the Indy 200. Is Zach a Junior or Senior now? Do you guys still have the Mk. 4? Thanks for saying hello!

[Chris @ Forma]

our first project was an 818 about 4 years ago. We are also in the neighborhood. If you need any assistance, don't hesitate as we are only 8 miles down the road. I70 & I270. We built ours with an EFR 72/63 turbo and we make over 300 lb-ft of torque at 3500 rpm...crazy quick. Reach out if you need anything.

[Scott Meyer]

Good evening 818 forum guru's! Helping Liam tonight with some of the front suspension tear down. Some success and a lot of frustration. 13 y.o. rust has not been kind to the subie subframe/suspension on our donor.

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That's why we have new Aluminum LCA's!

Trying to separate the transaxle from the engine. All of the connecting bolts are removed, started is removed and the clutch slave cylinder also removed. Both front axles removed from trans.
It's a 2007 Impreza...so even the Haynes manual says there is no other items to separate (like the pre-2005 retaining pin on the throw out fork for clutch. We cannot get the transaxle to budge free.

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Also...when you round over the frozen head of the LCA ball joint retaining bolt, how do you get this out of the spindle knuckle? I asked Liam to take it to school tomorrow and work with his Engineering Capstone teacher to see if they can work on it.

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Thanks for the help and any pointers/tips

And one last teaser photo. Scuffed up the glossy VHT high temp red on the intake and shot it with some Satin Clear tonight.

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[Bob_n_Cincy]

The pinch bolt on the lower ball joing can be a bear.
1. Soak in for a couple of days with PB Blaster.
2. Weld a nut to head so you can get somw torque on it.
3. heat and cool the boat a few times with a torch. The expansion contraction seems to break down the rust (glue).
I've done about 6 of these. After you have the bolt out, you are only half way done. The hard part is removing ball joint. I have a special tool for this, You can barrow.
Bob

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ACK53SN3GY

[Scott Meyer]

Thanks Bob...

Edit: (regarding the engine/transaxle separation)
Liam posted some "HELP" requests on the Ohio Subie Club FB page, and got some tips (screw driver or drive pin and hammer at joint to engine)
The guide pins and the input shaft were frozen together, The 2006-07 transaxles do not have the throw out fork retaining pin that causes issues for removal.

SUCCESS!!!!

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The engine and transaxle are now separated. We went ahead and removed the clutch and flywheel and installed the engine on the stand.

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That transaxle is a lot heavier than the Tremec 5-speed on my Roadster I used with the 4.6L DOHC mod motor. I guess it's all of the extra stuff for AWD!?!?

Anyway, the front is pretty much torn down and we just have those two pesky pinch bolts for the LCA ball joint.

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He's just about ready to drop the rear subframe / transaxle and rear suspension out of the donor.

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[Sdonnel]

Zach is a sophomore in college and a Senior Airman in the Air Guard. Fixes F-16 engines. We sold our Mk 3.1 to build a Mk4.
Seems like yesterday when we were at the track. Project looks great. Definitely watching your progress.

Scott

[DSR-3]

Great family/school project!
*I have a nice donor steering rack that you can have for shipping if you need or want it.

[Scott Meyer]

Beginning of October 2020 weekly update.

Tried a few more methods with those pesky spindle knuckle pinch bolts. Got an awesome set of bolt extractor sockets and managed to separate the bolt head from the threads! Didn’t realize I was that strong...LOL Also trying Flickr please let me know if photos come through.

As much as I wanted to reuse and restore the donor suspension....I’m ordering new knuckles, hubs and bearings. We want to keep this car in the family for years to come and the rust is too much to deal with and not worth my time.

Liam was able to get the rear suspension and differential out of the car on Friday.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50416946821_a81e05ee69_z.jpg

And now the engine...we are about 90% convinced to go ahead and remove the heads, have them machined and replace the head gaskets while we are at this point. There’s evidence they are starting to leak and that’s a known issue with the EJ253 SOHC engines. Thoughts? We found a recommended machine shop nearby from a mechanic I trust.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50416946826_3522b32c64_z.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50416946831_d86709cb18_z.jpg

And last question for today...what’s the purpose of drilling the brake pedal up 1/2”? Wouldn’t that move the fulcrum further away from force and require more punching power in the leg to activate the manual brakes?

[AZPete]

Pics look good. Except for the rust, of course. And, I had a leaking head gasket problem that required a flatbed ($$$), teardown and machine shop work on the valves and heads, so I agree that you should do it now to avoid the stress, time and coin later.

[RPGs818SNA]

The fulcrum for the brake pedal is where it is attached at the top, so moving the hole for the load up half an inch increases the leverage, making it somewhat easier to apply force to the brake master cylinder. Check the clearance before drilling. I drilled my hole a little too far rearward and had to do some grinding to make the clevis swing freely.

[Scott Meyer]

The fulcrum for the brake pedal is where it is attached at the top, so moving the hole for the load up half an inch increases the leverage, making it somewhat easier to apply force to the brake master cylinder. Check the clearance before drilling. I drilled my hole a little too far rearward and had to do some grinding to make the clevis swing freely.

Thank you for the feedback.

[Scott Meyer]

Appreciate the “heads up” Pete!

Liam is getting things organized and hopefully keeping track of how he took everything apart!

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And my contribution to the organization...$$$

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[Scott Meyer]

Well my son (and a little help from me) now has the donor completely stripped!

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Still a few sub-assemblies to tear down like rear axles from rear diff...and it made me think today, has anyone bought the complete axle set from FFR? Are they a decent quality? The labor and mess to tear these apart and insert the kit axles doesn’t seem worth it to not spend the $110 +/- FFR is asking for complete axles with the CV joints ready to go.

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We also removed the heads last weekend and sent those to a local shop Monday. He’s doing a complete clean up, planning of deck, leak down check, and will reseat the valves if needed (also remove and reinstall Cam and reset valve clearance).

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I started doing the POR-15 treatment on the pedal box!

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[Scott Meyer]

Update for the week. Not a lot of actual work going on but started to prep the new replacement parts. Pressed my first hub together and forgot the outer wheel grease seal. Oops. Got it fixed and the first front hub is pressed together with the retaining snap ring and both seals!

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Pedal box is done with new WRX covers installed!

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And ordered tubular unequal length headers for NA 2.5i engine.

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Talked to the machine shop this week and they said our heads had no cracks and no leaks! They just need to plane the surface and clean the valves and set the gap/lash. Hopefully get those back next week.

And most important update...our kit is now fully paid for and should be ready to ship in about 2-weeks!

[Kiwi Dave]

Still a few sub-assemblies to tear down like rear axles from rear diff...and it made me think today, has anyone bought the complete axle set from FFR? Are they a decent quality? The labor and mess to tear these apart and insert the kit axles doesn’t seem worth it to not spend the $110 +/- FFR is asking for complete axles with the CV joints ready to go.



Hi Scott

With the caveat that I'm not on the road yet, but since nobody else who is has answered you yet on the topic of the FFR axles, they appear to me to be of good quality and well worth the price to have new parts and avoid the mess of converting them yourself. Since FFR know people will be racing with them, that's another reason for me to think they are up to my needs. You can even recover some of the cost by selling your donor rear axles.

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Cheers

Dave

[roadrashrob]

Scott,

I just started reading this thread, and it sounds like you and your son are a few months ahead of me an my son. He is 14, and our FFR scheduled delivery is 12/19. I will definitely be following and hope you save me a few mis-steps along the way. We purchased our 2004 WRX donor car on a Copart Auction, and I drove from NY to Savannah, GA and back with a trailer to get it. Only thing it didn't have that I needed was a passenger side mirror... None of the rust you are facing as it has never seen salt.

I'm also a pilot and have restored / upgraded my original 1984 Piper Archer, but now own a 2000 Beech A36 Bonanza which I keep at KMGJ. We are actually flying out to Michigan to the 818 Build School the weekend of November 13th. Would be great to get over to Ohio and see your build one of these days!

Our donor is fully stripped, all parts labelled, and the scrap metal fetched me a whopping $45. The engine is on a stand, separated from the transmission, and we are beginning to prep the parts. As many have stated, dieting the wiring harness seems daunting. I'm very good with wiring, and not afraid to tackle it, but definitely looking to the folks who have already done this for advice. My approach is going to be to build a "loom" so I can work on the wires comfortably, and keep them routed in the general direction they need to be until I do the initial diet and get it in the car. You mentioned earlier in this thread that you "got the manual", and I was hoping you could tell me where you got them? I have the AllDataDIY manual, but struggling to get a full shop manual (with wiring schematics) for the car?

I look forward to following your thread, and may have to start my own now that we are finally beginning the "build" phase.

-Rob

[Scott Meyer]

Dave - thanks for replying on the FFR axles. I have already added these to my order a few weeks ago! They look nice.

Rob, nice to hear from another pilot and Father/Son build! You guys will love the build school. Would like to hear your feedback on the 818 class at Mott in Michigan. I attended the school in 2008 prior to receiving and building my roadster. It was very helpful for me then. I had considered taking this class next month with Liam but it would be for him, not me. I’ve done a roadster, and restored several cars now and built an Airplane...so not much I could learn. In the last 2 months he completely tore down the Impreza and learned a lot so I’m not too worried about his skills.

Let’s keep in touch and get together for a fly-in to compare progress!

Speaking of some progress. My contribution is paint. At some point I will teach Liam the art of prep and painting...but for now that’s what he wants me to do.

Steering rack that he tore apart this week to replace the tie rods, is now ready for paint. I’ve done the POR-15 degreasing, Metal prep and it’s ready for the semi gloss topcoat.
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The SOHC valve cover are cleaned, primed and painted with VHT.

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Goal is to get the transmission and engine block painted this week.

[roadrashrob]

Scott,

What are you planning to paint the transmission with? Ours is really clean, so was thinking of just bead blasting back to clean and then possibly just clear coating it? Would love your thoughts on what you are planning.
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[PaulProe]

Scott
Good to hear your progress. Thought these might bring back some fond memories. Suspect Liam is a little bigger than in the second photo


Paul Proefrock
Gateway Cobra Club
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[Scott Meyer]

Scott
Good to hear your progress. Thought these might bring back some fond memories. Suspect Liam is a little bigger than in the second photo


Paul Proefrock
Gateway Cobra Club
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I love that picture...and great to hear from you Paul!

Liam is almost 18, and is now 6’-4”
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[Scott Meyer]

One week until F5 is done with our kit, then we get to wait for the big blue Stewart truck. Hopefully before thanksgiving we shall receive our 818S!

In the meantime we’ve been preparing and restoring the donor parts. And building up the non donor new parts. It’s satisfying for me to assemble the all new front steering knuckle, calipers pads and ball joints. Pressing in new bearings and hubs was rather easy with the right tools. Ended up using one of those multi size tool Kits for pressing in bearings and seals that you simply ratchet together (in lieu of hydraulic press).

Both front hubs are done and ready to mount. The only donor part was the drilled and slotted rotors, and the CV drive axle which Liam removed and cleaned up and we painted the inside with POR-15

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And the steering rack is restored, painted and converted to manual steering. All new inner and outer tie rods ends as well.

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[roadrashrob]

Scott,

Where did you find the best info for depowering the rack. I'm at that point with my kit not coming until December, but after reading this entire thread I'm more confused that when I started! :-o
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?5966-De-powering-the-steering-rack-plus-more-to-come-on-rebuilding-wrx-parts&highlight=manual+steering

I've been holding off on some things "assuming" the FFR manual would detail the steps.

[sgarrett]

Just connect the two fittings with a section of tubing. In Scott's picture you can see he used rigid tubing for the 90 degree bends and the flexible tubing to connect them.

[roadrashrob]

Thanks. That part I knew, but maybe I didn't take my rack apart enough yet. I was wondering what I do with the fittings with the three red arrows? From the looks of Scott's, I guess I just remove that entire piece.
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[Scott Meyer]

Rob,
Yes, just as sgarret said. We also bought the digital PDF copy of the build manual and have used this for now. My son has been following the tear down and prep directions (as much as they say)...here is a screenshot from the portion on the manual rack. I tried to understand the whole depowering thread and completely tearing apart the rack. Honestly it’s a huge project I didn’t see worth it for now. We may add power steering back in at some point if the effort is too much.

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From what we can tell, those ports are left open or could be plugged with RTV, capped, etc. the high pressure lines are removed from that area of the rack.

[grabera7]

You can cut those axle stubs down pretty far. Check out my build thread for pictures.

[Scott Meyer]

Well guys, it’s been a rough week for the Meyer family. In late July we lost my father, and went through the whole grieving process with his loss. I was able to move my mother from St. Louis to Dublin, Ohio so we could spend more time with her and take care of her. She was on hospice with Alzheimer’s but was in good spirits. I woke up Tuesday morning to learn she had passed in her sleep. What a shock.

We just had a simple gathering for her today with my immediate family. I will place my parents in a Unity urn and have them interned at the Jefferson Barracks National Cemetery in St. Louis. My dad was an honorable discharged Air Force tech sergeant from the Vietnam era.

To take my mind off things...I escaped to the garage a couple of nights to paint the engine short block and transmission.

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[Jetfuel]

Scott, our sincere condolences for your family loss
May the God Lord keep them in His everlasting Glory

Jet

[AZPete]

My thoughts are with you and your family.

[roadrashrob]

Very sorry for your loss Scott.

[redbudrr]

Sorry for you loss Scott.

[aquillen]

Sending my deepest sympathy for the loss of your parents. May they rest in peace together forever more.

[Scott Meyer]

Appreciate all of the thoughts and well wishes for our family. We are all doing better after taking the week off to grieve and spend time together.

Back to the build. The project gives Liam and I a time to bond and do things totally unrelated to life.

Today he was prepping the engine accessories in hope of getting the heads back from the machine shop. Looks like I need to spend a night spraying some more paint.

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Speaking of the heads...you may notice two large objects on the back of the table wrapped in clear plastic! I picked them up after work today...

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My other project is helping Liam get the suspension ready. Dove in and disassembled the right rear hub and parking brake and cable. Remember I’ve forgone the donor parts and have new knuckles, backing plates, brakes and hubs/bearings.

The before...14 year old rusty upper Midwest “junk”:
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The new setup, in progress and then complete with the reconditioned donor disc brake rotor.
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Talked to both Factory 5 and Stewart Transport today. Looks like we might get our 818 on Thanksgiving day!

[Jetfuel]

...”do things totally unrelated to life...”

Life is what happens while you’re making plans...life goes on until it is our turn so press on

Jet

[Scott Meyer]

How to make an EJ253 look nice?

Clean, clean, paint and attention to detail. The machine job on our heads looks good so Liam masked them off and we shot them with VHT primer and paint tonight. Also painted the fuel and PCV rails. Intake is getting reassembled with the STI red theme!

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[roadrashrob]

Looking great!

[Scott Meyer]

Tonight Liam asked me if we could work on installing the heads on the engine...the below is about 3 hours of our combined work, and very happy with the results.

Proud to see my son learning the detail process to put an engine back together. Using our new digital torque wrench.

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Both heads done and torqued to the funky spec sequence. We used Cometic turbo MLS head gaskets.

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Next was completing the timing belt replacement with all of the roller guides and sprockets/tensioner:

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And then we reinstalled the timing covers (with new / non rusted bolts), the harmonic balancer and the intake is mocked up for the photo.

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[Scott Meyer]

Engine is almost completed. Liam is rewrapping the engine wire harness and detailing the final cam solenoids and fuel rails. He got the cam covers back on today, new spark plugs and wires. I had to take the timing belt back off again last night to reinstall the dipstick. Someone was too stoked to get the timing belt done last week (dad),while we were letting the dipstick paint dry. Next morning realized the dipstick tube has to go on before the right cam sprocket and rear belt cover. Oops! Also mocking up some UEL headers we got for 99-05 2.5RS. I think we can make these work...will require a little swapping out of other exhaust components with FFR.

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[Scott Meyer]

Had to share! Stewart is scheduled to pick up next week...

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[Scott Meyer]

Kind of exciting and sad to get the garage emptied today. In case anyone is wondering, the shell will not fit into a 6’ x 12’ U Haul trailer without some gymnastics. We had to think on our feet today. Recouperated a whole $32.50 for metal scrap (1060 lbs)

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[roadrashrob]

I win! Mine fit in a 5'x10' trailer, and fetched us $45!! :-)

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It is bittersweet seeing it just tossed in the scrap pile...

What is the status on your kit? Did they hit production for 11/7? Just trying to judge how realistic my 12/19 date is that they gave me.

[Scott Meyer]

Nice Rob! Yeah the way the Uhaul trailer was designed there was no way it would go in horizontally. We had to use the engine shop crane to lift shell on its side, with moving dollys racket strapped to the side of Impreza... a passerby in our neighborhood helped us lift and push up the ramp. I’ll have to find a way to share Liam’s video! The guy at scrap yard picked and threw the carcass about 50’ to the scrap pile like your picture shows.

Your scrap metal value is better in NY, they were only paying $70/gross ton here. Liam had sold off a few doors, the hood and bumper covers to local Subie freaks...we may net $300-400 on the donor stuff not using.

If I had to do this again, I would go the JDM engine/trans route, stand alone harness and all new suspension pieces like I’ve already bought.

FFR wasn’t too transparent on the “getting completed by 11/7 date”. I asked a few times for the photos they sent yesterday! Not sure what our BOL looks like. Stewart was funny on the phone and they said “yeah we like to give Factory 5 a few weeks after the completion date before we pick up...just so it’s mostly all done!”

In the end, this is a hobby and I’m not too concerned. I’m glad Factory 5 is still this busy and getting lots of orders!

[roadrashrob]

Scott,

I know you pressed in your bearings, and I just popped mine out tonight to prep the front knuckles. When you pressed the new ones in, did you have to separate the bearing, or were you able to press it in together? Both my manuals pretty much say "don't do this yourself", and every video on YouTube I've seen shows them pulling the bearing apart so they can press the outer race without putting pressure on the inner race. I was planning on just pressing it with pressure on the outer race only, with the bearing intact.

Would love you know how you did it.

[Scott Meyer]

Rob,

If you want to PM me your cell # it would be easier to share what I did. The forum is a bit sluggish for typing and sharing pictures.

Scott

[lsfourwheeler]

If I had to do this again, I would go the JDM engine/trans route, stand alone harness and all new suspension pieces like I’ve already bought.


I think FFR knows that a "complete kit" version of the 818 is desired. The donors are definitely hard to find for a reasonable price in places where salted roads are a thing. I chose the save money route and spent a lot of time cleaning up my spindles/brakes/suspension before putting it on the kit.

[Scott Meyer]

Liam and I were able to get a lot done this weekend. He finished up all of the fuel rails and remaining wiring, painting on the engine. We had to undo a few things and remove two broken valve cover bolts. He’s learned to watch his friends when they help...uga duga does not equal the torque required on those bolts...

I was able to help complete the last rear knuckle, parking brake and brake assembly and together we lowered the engine and installed the new flywheel, clutch, slave cylinder and mated the transaxle back to the engine! We have a large stockpile of new/reconditioned “donor” parts ready for the 818.

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[Scott Meyer]

Eric w/ Stewart did a great job today with our delivery.
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Our street is a short cul-de-sac and he said “this is as close as I’m getting...so we ferried the 16 or so boxes in my old van and he pulled the 818 down the street on their cart!
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Liam and I had to recreate the 2008 delivery photo of my Mk 3 roadster!
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He’s working on the inventory while I started storing boxes and body panels
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[Jetfuel]

Congrats you all!!!
I know somebody is not sleeping tonight...right Liam???

Jet

[roadrashrob]

Looks like Christmas came early for Liam! :)

Now I'm even more excited to get our kit... 3 weeks if they stick to their production date.

[redbudrr]

Now the fun begins!!! Congratulations!!

[aquillen]

Thanks for tossing in the roadster pic, fun to see Liam then and now. Which time was he more excited (if not both... :) And then there is the test seating that has to happen too.

[AZPete]

I love the VROOM-VROOM pic in the seat!

[Scott Meyer]

What a week! A lot has been done by Liam with just a little help from myself on painting the aluminum and getting him started on the drilling and proper fitting/riveting of the front firewall. I think it’s turning out great and very happy how easy the engine was to install with just the two of us. And yes, we are building a bit out of sequence from the manual due to the back order part list. We have no aluminum other than the panels pre-fitted to the chassis. Also missing one set of the upper IRS adapter bracket, and rear transmission cover. Brandon Larson has kindly sent one he had but USPS priority mail didn’t make it to our house yet today.

Not bad for one weeks work!

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[Jetfuel]

Wow ..that’s moving along quite nicely

jet

[Scott Meyer]

One of the side projects Liam asked me to help with, was the restoration and painting of the '07 Wagon Enkei alum. wheels. Why? I'm not sure other than a way to spend dads time and money...but heck, I learned a few new tricks and tried out some new products and they look pretty good. I follow this youtuber and pretty much did the steps he shows:

https://youtu.be/_vMoHzBvu6w

While I have painted several cars using 2K products and my full HVLP spray guns, I have never tried the 2K aerosol can products...and have to say Eastwood does a nice job with their 2K Urethane primer and 2K High Gloss Clear.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50690507348_113e025b9b_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2kem6NC)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50691189531_9a0d6ebbc1_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2kepAAp)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50691189441_55c9e610f9_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2kepAyR)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50691189476_cd59b744ef_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2kepAzs)

They are not perfect, but look 100% better than they did, plus we now have cool looking "STI inspired" all season rims/tires...even though we have the FFR Gunmetal wheels.

[Jetfuel]

Yes. Wheels makes or brakes the look of the car

Jet

[Scott Meyer]

The dreaded wait for parts on the back order list. The rear suspension is two brackets shy of being complete (on the POL sheet). Asked F5 to help send what they can and was promised the fab guys were making these brackets this week and would get them shipped. We also got the transaxle cover from Brandon Larson (thank you), and that’s now installed. Fuel tank and lines almost completed and making a bracket to hang a fuel filter I got to replace the OEM one Liam chucked. New cold air intake and new seats arrived (his Christmas present). Last photo was me trying out the legroom and new seats and pedals!

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[Scott Meyer]

As this year comes to an end, it’s time for an update...realizing we haven’t posted in a few weeks. Still waiting on back orders. We think the large IRS adapter brackets are arriving tomorrow from F5, via fedex. Not quite sure what else might be in the shipment.

Moved on to the brake lines, coolant lines, and replaced the clutch and brake master cylinders with WRX part #’s. The NA clutch master did not fit the frame...oddly enough. Also had to source a replacement banjo bolt for the clutch slave cylinder. Somehow didn’t think to keep the donor one when we replaced the slave cylinder. After ordering three (one didn’t fit, one never arrived - lost by USPS) today I finally got one from Amazon and it worked out!

Liam has decided to take on the wiring himself - well at least laying it out in the frame and plugging in, marking circuit branches, and getting it ready for me to help him with the dieting. Today I also fabricated covers for the ABS sensor holes, and he got the front subframe attached for the radiator.

He’s now reconsidering school and is possibly interested in a technical trade path for being a certified mechanic and train to work on European or exotics, etc. He definitely likes working on cars.

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[DSR-3]

It looks like you, like me, bought nice new tie-rod ends before learning that a bump steer kit is a "requirement".
It may be tempting to "just go with it" for a while, again like I did- but at some point you will only tell yourself that you should have done it sooner.
The Baer kit is easy, but unfortunately it does not use R/L handed parts so you have to turn an end for toe adjustment. Lame, but still effective.
With the crappy local roads and freeways, I had to question who I would let drive the car because it could get pretty wild fast. Correcting (most of) the BS helped hugely (still no other drivers in 2.5k miles, though!).

[Ajzride]

On top of the Baer kit, replace the tie rod end with a large bolt so you can get more spacers than the Baer kit supports.

[idf]

Agree with DSR that eliminating bump steer takes the car from almost undrivable to very pleasant. I found the Baer studs too short and had Pinto studs machined to the correct taper. I don't recall the issue he mentions relative to toe adjustment. If I was where you currently are on your build when I discovered the problem I'd use the approach Aj's suggesting.

[Scott Meyer]

Hmmm...had everyone done this? What ride height do you have your 818 at? When I built my roadster over a decade ago, everyone said the same thing about bump steer and how horrible it was. I never saw it as a problem with the F5 kit and mustang manual steering rack.

We are not planning any racing, just street driving and maybe an AutoX at best.
Any links to the Baer bump steer kit?

[DSR-3]

It may actually be "less" of an issue on quality surface like most tracks. Freeway transitions with a curve and a big joint (in the road!) were especially exciting, but it's better all the time.
I'm running the "stock" alignment and ride height of 4.5".
Summit has the Subaru Baer kit.

[Ajzride]

My S is at stock ride height and was flat out scary going over concrete joints on brand new roads before fixing the bump steer.

[FFRWRX]

Is this the kit we need? I've read about bump steer a number of times and suppose I should do something about it too.

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[roadrashrob]

Is this the kit we need? I've read about bump steer a number of times and suppose I should do something about it too.

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I am so glad you are all a couple of weeks ahead of us! Hopefully someone will confirm the correct kit.

Thanks!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Is this the kit we need? I've read about bump steer a number of times and suppose I should do something about it too.

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I could not find the part number I ordered from 5 years ago. The body on the threaded tube on mine was a different shape.
Another interesting note in this picture. I have a 2012 5mt transmission that doesn't have a VSS sensor. I put my own sensor on the front left wheel. It works great, but I wonder what will happen if I ever do a dyno tune and the wheel is not turning.
Bob
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139839&d=1608858002

[Ajzride]

Yes that is the correct kit, 3851001.

I used the Pinto studs and machined them to fit, but in hindsight would just use bolts if I had it to do over.

[AZPete]

Scott, like you, I heard about bump steer building my roadster, but didn't add it and had no problems. Likewise, I did not add the bump steer kit to my 818 and I drove it 5,000 street miles with no problems befote selling it a year ago. On both cars, the steering was scary twitchy until I had the caster set professionally. I had the donor power steering on both my roadster and 818, so that probably added some dampening to the steering. Driving around Arizona and southern California I didn't hit the potholes like in the salty states, but bounced over plenty of cracks, holes and railroad crossings. I don't doubt the guys who added a bump steer kit, but you asked if anyone had experience without it, so that's my experience.

More important: Merry Christmas!!!

[Scott Meyer]

Merry Christmas to all! Thanks for the reply Pete. That was our original plan and will stay the course.

Early yesterday we got a small box from Factory 5 that contained the back ordered IRS brackets and some edge trim (not needed right now).

After finishing those with POR-15, Liam got the rear suspension connected today!

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No pictures to document, but I did remove the rear transaxle cover, and fiddled around for 20 minutes and removed that upper bearing race. Good catch Bob! Cover is reinstalled and waiting on the RTV to cure, and then we will add the gear oil! We filled up the engine with Mobil1 30w-50 today and then manually rotated engine to try and prime everything. No leaks so far!

[fletch]

Bump for Clean Build Award.
Your work looks great, guys!

[Scott Meyer]

Thanks Fletch!

And, we have a roller! Brake lines are completed just need to fill/bleed the system, have a mity-vac to help with this task.
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[Scott Meyer]

Gut check time...I’ve not been posting much lately as my son is doing this on his preferred social media platforms (Instagram, FB 818 closed group, Ohio Subie Crew)...so when I post on here it feels like extra work now. He doesn’t like the forum or want to learn how to use it.

Anyway, let me know if it’s helpful or interesting to see our progress?

Liam has dived “all-in” to the wiring and preparing for the diet process after first start. I really need to spend a day with him and button up the brakes, clutch and cooling systems. We just need to replace the F5 rubber hose couplers with the silicone ones we got, and add the SOHC coolant fill port F5 recommended, and then fill and bleed all of the systems. Still need to install the tank vent and the vapor canister I made.

Progress as of mid-January 2021:

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[Ajzride]

My opinion FWIW (which is probably not much).... Many of the people who have built these 818's and have the knowledge to point out errors you might be making do not spend much time on social media. If you are posting for the benefit of friends and family then social media might be better for you. But if you are posting for the benefit of insight from other 818 builders, you need to keep the thread updated.

[FFRWRX]

I am one who spends no time on the other social media sites. So this is where I get my info from and where I share it. I can understand it taking a bit of effort to post progress here, but it is very much appreciated.

Rick

[aquillen]

I'm glad your are posting here - more info to share the better, even if my project is winding down (but not done). Indeed if posting for people you know on other forums then that makes sense. I only post here - not on other places. Did a facebook post about 2 times,closed it recently. I just don't get a warm fuzzy feeling outside 'our' sandbox.

[jbs72697]

Heck yes, keep posting here. Watching build threads is how I’ve been collecting info and ideas for my own upcoming 818 build once I take delivery of my kit in April

[Scott Meyer]

Thanks for the replies and motivation to keep posting.

[Shawn818c]

Any plans on how to keep the rear flexible brake lines from rubbing the axles? I mounted the rear tabs much higher but that would be some work to change now, or switch to a shorter hose. Your son is doing a great job!!

[Scott Meyer]

We are planning to make another bracket to attach to the flex line via some adel rubber coated clamps

[mcamera]

Thought I would jump over here and checkout your build thread since we've talked on mine. Your build looks great! Everything is so clean and it was smart to ditch some of those old rusted donor parts for new ones. That saves a lot of time and hopefully adds some reliability. You guys are building so quickly! I'm hoping to have a roller within the next month too. I'll reach out the next time I'm visiting Columbus. I would love to see your build in person if you're available.

[Scott Meyer]

Thanks for checking out the build! It’s definitely nice to have all new parts, I just had to get over the frustration of ordering all those parts (from RockAuto) after watching my son struggle with the rusty donor. It definitely made the “assembly” much faster and we’ve got piece of mind that everything is in good shape! Let us know when you get down this way, we are over near Muirfield Village area in NW Dublin.

[Scott Meyer]

Liam’s been working hard on the wiring. A few weeks ago we did a session on how to solder, apply heat shrink tubing and then we switched to the newer heat shrink water proof solder tubes...which he’s using now. I’ve jumped in and helped a bit on changing the connectors between the corrugated coolant tubing and solid tubing with the silicone ones recommended.

Last weekend our Box 6 finally arrived and we started fitting the missing dead pedal covers and one of the seat belt covers. Lots of loose ends getting worked on but not a ton of progress.

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[mcamera]

Where do you think you'll mount your ecu/fuse boxes? I have my harness laid out and there's not much room behind the passenger seat area. I think I'm going to fully unwrap the donor harness (I was trying to avoid extra work) and move some things up to the passenger footwell area. I've heard unwrapping the harness can give you extra length for some components.

[Scott Meyer]

Michael,

The bigger fuse box/relay panel that was in the OEM engine bay has been removed from the weather proof enclosure and is sitting above the F5 fuel tank. He has mounted/located the ECU in the upper right corner (passenger side) behind the firewall in the engine bay. The OEM interior fuse panel is now located at the front of the “transmission” tunnel. We’ve extended the wires the length the manual calls for, but some still appear to be a little tight and may need further extension. So far Liam has dieted the entire SRS air bag system from the harness and removed the common grounds. He also has the ABS isolated and that will be next to go once we confirm the engine will start. He has powered up the accessory mode and we have power to the instrument cluster and the hazards work...but something was not allowing the brake lights or horns to function (most likely poor grounds).

Link to YouTube video: https://youtu.be/Z8aCdFA8DnU

This past weekend we lifted the chassis back up on Jack stands so we can continue with under vehicle items.

• Exhaust system was titanium glass wrapped and installed
• Starting to layout the aluminum we just got in the backordered Box 6
• Completed the new fuel tank vent with homemade charcoal canister (also dumping the OEM brick)

Got a proper new set of Rivnut pliers https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081GDRTXP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and now installing those is a lot easier than those small pliers.

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[STiPWRD]

In photo #7, you may need to lower your exhaust a bit to accommodate the rear bumper. The fiberglass mounts directly to the bottom of that rear chassis tubing. I don't know if you did this already but it's a good time to test fit the rear bumper. By the way, great progress on the wiring!

[Scott Meyer]

Thanks, we are just mocking up the straight pipe for now. I thought the exhaust clamp might help push it down but didn’t do a thing.

So here’s what we are doing...we already have the Carbon Fiber rear diffuser...which the F5 guys say will require some modifications to the NA straight pipe...and I’m concerned how loud the straight pipe will be, so I’m getting the parts to do a compact flow master Flow FX muffler and mimic what Bob Boig sells for the turbo model.

We also have the header/cat installed without the supplied F5 spacers...had the exhaust mounted with the spacers and guess what, the CAT was lower than the frame rails, which we were not crazy about. Once the muffler and transmission bracket arrive we will mock-up the needed exhaust pipe to connect the two together, tack weld and go from there. I have a MIG welder (not used in years) and can have someone with more skills finish the welding with TIG.
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[aquillen]

Carbon filter from a sprinkler head - kind of stuff I love to see invented !

[Scott Meyer]

Art,

I’d love to take credit for that idea, but saw it on the FFCobra...FFCars.com forum some 12 years ago, and copied it for my DOHC 4.6L powered roadster. I drove that car for 2-years, almost 2,000 mi always parked in the garage and never once smelled gas fumes. Yes a very simple design. 4” rotary sprinkler head with the guts removed, barbed 5/8” fitting screwed into base, activated aquarium charcoal and a 3M scuff pad to hold it in place top and bottom below the screw on cap!

We will flash out the EVAP stuff from the ECU. We have a Tatrix 2.0 cable and the RomRadier software to attempt that process...

[Scott Meyer]

Big day for the Meyer boys! After helping Liam vacuum bleed/fill the coolant system (you have to try this method if not done this before), we went over the wiring one last time. Hooked up the battery, and nothing. I came in to have a coffee and attend a Teams meeting, and he sat there and troubleshot the harness. He came running in some 20 minutes later and exclaimed "IT WORKS".

Videos attached on YouTube for proof! The first section of the video where he is just running the starter is with the spark plugs removed and no fuel to let the oil pump "prime" the engine since we had it torn down.


https://youtu.be/XPcGNe5ebec

All I can say is "He's Super Excited"! WE celebrated with homemade Chicken Katsu tonight...Japanese comfort food! Thanks for everyone who has helped on the forum and through the FB builders page, etc.!

[Jetfuel]

Way to go guys....that's an amazing quick build
Can't wait for spring...

Jet

[roadrashrob]

MAJOR milestone!!! And as Jet said, amazingly quick....

[AZPete]

Congrats, Liam!! This milestone means that you have done hundreds of things correctly. I know that for the next few weeks, until you can drive the go-kart, you'll be starting it up just to hear it and feel your success.

Now's a good time - go out to the garage and start it up again.

[wallace18]

Congrats!:cool:

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Very Nice, Next milestone is the go-kart stage. We auto-crossed our go-kart for a whole summer to sort things out.
Something to look forward to. This is a video on ar first day auto crossing our 818.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12534-MRG-MotorSports-818S-Build&p=174470&viewfull=1#post174470

[aquillen]

You just put a big smile on my face on this cold yucky winter day. Thanks for sharing! Spins up really fast it seems, at least compared to my hulking 3.0 motor... lightweight flywheel??? I still want to get over there some day, finally got shot 1 of 2 for covid (yah I'm an old geez).

[Jetfuel]

In due time old geez we'll get there...
March 11 and I'll get my second shot...

Jet...come on spring!!!

[Scott Meyer]

Lots happening as the COVID fog lifts from my brain (I was unfortunate and tested positive last month). Almost fully recovered but good enough to be back in the world and working on the 818 again with Liam!

My next job is fabricating seat brackets for our EBay seats! Been talking to Rob (roadrashrob) daily as we share our build and ideas, and he has some nice flat frame adapters from Corbeau, which I planned to copy...so we made a cardboard template first to get the size of our seat base and sliders.

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As we started looking for the best spot for the seats, and how to attach them to the frames, I made a mental leap that we really just needed flat extensions with studs that we can blind mount from up top and bolt underneath. Break out the Lincoln Mig welder I’ve not used in 13+ years...

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Here are the rails in process and after being finished. Our sliders are 14-3/8” on center. So centerline the 1-1/2” x 1/4” flat stock, measured off the trans tunnel and then drilled and clecod in place. Up drill and weld cap hex head bolts to the flat stock, up drill the frame of the 818 and rinse/repeat,

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After some weld splatter burns, I called it a night. Will confirm the seat position on the flat stock today and drill for the seat slider mounting.

[DSR-3]

I think you will want to raise the front of the seats.
I placed a 1.25" (or 1.5"?) square tube across the front 2 slider holes, and thru-bolted the rear slider holes to the frame crossmember.
As I recall, you can go that far back and still not run out of slider travel forward before the seat hits the frame.

[Scott Meyer]

We sat on the seats inside the car and they are perfect flat on the floor for us. Liam is 6’-4” and I’m 6’-3”... we need all the headroom we can get when the soft top is up. The passenger seat will be installed where it fits (all the way back) and will not be able to slide forward due to cross brace on the 818 frame. Drivers seat will have a few inches of travel.

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[DSR-3]

Ah, you're the tall guys...
At 6' I feel maxed-out, so I have no idea how you will fit. I do have different seats, but they all kinda look the same from here.
No doubt not the first time you've had to deal with these things so I wish you luck.
I've always seen the short cockpit and low rollbar as the biggest misses in the car.
Great progrees on the build, and congrats' on survival!

[Scott Meyer]

Success with the first seat!

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[Scott Meyer]

Seats are both mounted, new shifter (k-tuned) and custom 818 shift knob are installed...and our tires arrived today from TireRack
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[mcamera]

Hey Scott, I hope everything is going well. I was wondering if you had similar issues with the LED's that you found on Ebay. Mine look dim and uneven. None of the red markings on the gauges show up, the needles are poorly lit, and overall the numbers are not sharp. Mine only worked well in the 2 small screens at the bottom of my gauges.

Pitch black, brightest the gauges will ever be
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Dark but with some background light, closer to real world driving on the highway
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Stock cluster
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[Scott Meyer]

Michael,
I've not noticed the same things you were not happy with, but I also haven't sat in the completely dark garage and played around with it yet.

We achieved limited go-cart status this week. My wife was home and didn't want us driving on the street so the chassis moved under it's own power in and out of the garage. 1st and reverse worked!

I'm also starting to prep the body panels for fitting this weekend...remember now how much fun and itchy the fiberglass work is!


https://youtu.be/Zm14jwUTZoA

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[Scott Meyer]

Well, there comes a day, when you have to decide on the paint color! Liam and I had pretty much decided on this last fall after we had the choices narrowed down to 3-4 colors, and then on my way to work one day...this passed me on the highway. I work for Honda and had not really seen this color up close yet, it looks stunning on the NSX, and will really pop on the 818S!

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51071265347_1d7d2e85d7_z.jpg

We will be using Kirker Automotive paints, and I just ordered all of my supplies today from AutoBody Toolmart. I have painted 3 cars in my past (one of which was the 3-color F5 Cobra in 2010), plus my Experimental Airplane...so this is old hat for me.

Here is the actual color we got:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51001982370_5d02014d73_z.jpg

This week we started bringing all of the body panels upstairs and prepping the back side, by spraying them with Raptor Liner...saw this on another builders blog videos (David Robinson) and thought it was a great idea. Takes away the "kit car" feel on the visible back side of the panels.


https://youtu.be/NOdHjDLCJEg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51070471998_42cb741882_z.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51071265202_734c08e0a2_z.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51070471748_b528c95738_z.jpg

Originally I wanted to get the car assembled, and do some shakedowns, get it registered with State, etc... and then do the paint later this Fall...but I'm leaning towards the "Get it done" now!

[roadrashrob]

Looks great guys! I love the Raptor liner on the rear of the panels, and will definitely do the same. Color will look amazing, but my skills are no where near the point I would paint it myself... We're definitely leaning towards Vinyl wrap to start, and then perhaps paint some day.

You definitely helped us a lot by being slightly ahead of us in the build, but sharing a lot of common build practices that I really admire. Thanks for that!

[Scott Meyer]

This one is just going to be a teaser...we’ve got the car registered for the Ohio Import Faceoff https://importfaceoff.net/ next Sunday- April 18th...and Liam threw down the challenge to me to have the 818 ready in gel coat.

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[roadrashrob]

This one is just going to be a teaser...we’ve got the car registered for the Ohio Import Faceoff next Sunday- April 18th...

"Import Challenge"? I know MA was originally a British Colony, but not sure cars from there are still considered imported... :-)

Incredible progress recently! We're just back from two weeks in FL, and in "Meyer" progress, I feel like it was two months! Good luck at the challenge. Your Gelcoat definitely looks good (in pictures). ;-)

[Scott Meyer]

Thanks Rob, and I was down for the count most of this week with my business trip, college visit and 2nd Vaccine shot! :cool:

Well the donor is a Subie (Japan = Import) and the car is now considered an exotic by Liam’s piers, and definitely the most “built” car of his group of friends! The gel coat is “good from a far, but far from good”! Learned from building the Mk. 3 cobra over a decade ago, get everything to fit and drive it for a bit, then do bodywork with everything assembled and aligned, and finally pull apart for final prime and paint.

[AZPete]

"Import Challenge" I took my 818 to the Scottsdale Cars & Coffee a few times and was told the first 2 times, "this is the American car section. You should move to the European car section." Each time, I explained that the chassis is from Massuchusetts and the car was built right here in Scottsdale, they walked away confused. :D
The Subaru guys were all over it with questions and photos.

[Jetfuel]

Well... I guess Liam put you under the gun Scott...
The first car show I went to (coffee and doughnuts with cops at the Indianapolis motor speedway) the L.E.O's awarded us "best import"...yep go figure

Jet

[aquillen]

I did one (the only local) show late last fall once I was rolling. No category for a car like this, so went with the engine... "import". Would rather call it American but to go for a take home award I guess you have to make the rules fit your build. :)

[Scott Meyer]

Jet and Pete,
Good to hear from you both! I think we will make it and be happy with the results. I was working on the “trunk lid” tonight and Liam was fitting the drivers side door. He managed to get the passenger door “passible”, but not perfect. He’s self taught like myself and I’ve really been trying to let him learn on his own lately!

BTW, I’ve posted on Facebook, that he has decided to pursue Engineering at Ohio University this fall! We toured the campus last week and he was really happy with the environment and city. We are going to submit his housing acceptance this week which locks in his acceptance! 6 weeks until high school graduation!

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[Scott Meyer]

There has been an Art Q sighting in Dublin, Ohio today. He was gracious enough to drive over from Indiana and show off his 818C that is crazy with little details that he’s customized and grafted in from other production cars.

Right now he’s helping Liam sort through some of his taillight wiring issues (Art thinks it’s crossed wires).

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[Jetfuel]

Really guys????
Here I am itching for a long drive.....

Jet

[Scott Meyer]

Well, it’s over! I had to punch out early as the super loud sound/bass vehicles and guys revving until the limiter kicked in was getting to be too much for me...

But we trailered the 818 to it’s first show while still under construction. Was able to drive it on and off trailer and around the raceway. Tons of interest and questions about the car. Top question was “What is it?” And with the engine cover off, 2nd top question was “what is that engine”...when we answered a Subaru Boxer people were stunned. Pretty cool.

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[Scott Meyer]

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Body work has started! Not much exciting to report other than we are pushing ahead with bodywork and customizing our 818!

[Scott Meyer]

Last Friday Art and JetFuel stopped over and took Liam with them up to see Jamie who’s also almost done with his H6- 818S.

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Good news Art/Jet, the kitchen remodel is done for now! Just waiting for the countertops to be measured and installed (probably won’t be done until late July).

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So earlier in the week, Liam got to meet one of his hero’s- Travis Pastranas…and is volunteering this weekend at the Southern Ohio Rally Race where he is competing for Team Subaru.

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And we are back to the nasty sanding of the bodywork prep!

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Also got to talk with Jeff Kleiner today! We go way back to my roadster build in 2008-10…and he confirmed some of the next steps and highly recommended Slick Sand high build polyester primer surfacer. I had the used this on my roadster back then which led to the conversation when and he told me he’s been in contact with the now (new) 3rd owner of my project and he lives near Chicago.! I looked up the guy “Dave” (dpariso) on here and the car still looks great! Appears some improvements to the intake and appearance (roll bars, side pipes and cam covers) were also done since I sold it to the Coast Guard officer in Florida back in 2011. The paint still looks great which reaffirmed my skills in painting a car!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/album.php?albumid=1226

[aquillen]

Of course I'd like this post, I'm in it :). Congrats on kitchen progress as well as the car. Liam added much fun to our outing, great kid with a great future.
.
Entire trip was a hoot with Jet and I leaving Indy early morning and back at 11pm. Two of these cars on the road together draws a lot of ogles. I had over 800 miles from NW Indiana and back, Jet most of that as well - both cars run like they were born for it. My 45 year old daughter after a spin that weekend said "gee dad, it's just like a real car".... now that is what I would call a heartfelt compliment.:confused:

[Scott Meyer]

Realizing we have not posted an update in well over a month. Body work continues and I’m a perfectionist so it’s slow. And hot…and dusty. Not happy with the gaps from Factory 5 I’m fixing all of these issues, extending the trunk lid and just about done with the engine cover and the CF skinning.

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[roadrashrob]

Awesome and scary at the same time. You know what you're doing, and it's a lot of work! Bodywork is not in my comfort zone. Will definitely be looking to you for guidance as we approach that point.

[DSR-3]

Liking the skins! (but not the hood pins) Nice gap-fill too, that will be an obvious plus once finished. My biggest fill was at the bumper/trunk lid.
What's your color(s) plan?

[Ajzride]

Awesome and scary at the same time. You know what you're doing, and it's a lot of work! Bodywork is not in my comfort zone. Will definitely be looking to you for guidance as we approach that point.


Well, there comes a day, when you have to decide on the paint color! Liam and I had pretty much decided on this last fall after we had the choices narrowed down to 3-4 colors, and then on my way to work one day...this passed me on the highway. I work for Honda and had not really seen this color up close yet, it looks stunning on the NSX, and will really pop on the 818S!

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51071265347_1d7d2e85d7_z.jpg

We will be using Kirker Automotive paints, and I just ordered all of my supplies today from AutoBody Toolmart. I have painted 3 cars in my past (one of which was the 3-color F5 Cobra in 2010), plus my Experimental Airplane...so this is old hat for me.

Here is the actual color we got:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51001982370_5d02014d73_z.jpg



Originally I wanted to get the car assembled, and do some shakedowns, get it registered with State, etc... and then do the paint later this Fall...but I'm leaning towards the "Get it done" now!

already answered above

[Scott Meyer]

Liking the skins! (but not the hood pins) Nice gap-fill too, that will be an obvious plus once finished. My biggest fill was at the bumper/trunk lid.
What's your color(s) plan?

Thanks for the repost on my colors. It’s now a custom color blend of the Sunkist Pearl (was too yellow) and Candy Red (Chianti to be exact) that I achieved with help from Kirker’s tech support. By doing several spray outs on the speed shapes got the color as close as possible to the Acura Thermal Orange Pearl.

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We don’t like the hood pins either…and have a plan in the works. Don’t want to spoil all of my tweaks so rest assured we are only keeping what’s necessary to attach the F5 soft top. Everything will be color coordinated!

[Scott Meyer]

It’s been a crazy month of August and needless to say Zero work on the 818. Spent a week in SoCal for work, and then we moved Liam to Ohio University for the start of his Freshman year in Engineering! It’s been very hard to get motivated to work on the car without him, but staying in constant contact via iMessage and sharing my recent progress…yes I’ve returned to the darn bodywork!

Since we have a NA motor (EJ253), the recess in the trunk was just a deep dish bowl, and the thought of a fake vent wasn’t sitting well with Liam. So, I made a composite core and fiberglassed it in!

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And have spent the last day applying and sanding off the Rage body filler…

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The end result now makes sense and looks great!

Next up is to finish the engine cover, and then last is the front hood…and we may be ready to remove the panels for primer by mid-September!

[Jeff Kleiner]

Hey Scott!
I was just thinking about you guys a few days ago and wondered how it was going! Thanks for the update...now get back to your sanding :p

Jeff

[aquillen]

Lookin' better all the time ! Tell Liam I said "hi".

[Scott Meyer]

Finally got to the stage of applying 2K Urethane Primer! Three panels done…many to go.

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[roadrashrob]

Love the carbon fiber!

[Scott Meyer]

I had one online vendor argue with me that this word was trademarked by one OEM manufacturer, but there are currently at least 4+ exotic cars called the …Spyder.

So here is a glimpse at some of my custom touches before I lay down the base coat.

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Maybe one more sneak peak…and we may not be doing Orange anymore…one person on here knows the real color but I have bribed him with Oban Scotch to be quiet!

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[FFRWRX]

Pretty sure you can use a trademarked name as long as it is for something you are making for yourself. A supplier could get in trouble for making something for a customer. I like it! I had the president of Ferrari/Maserati Canada drop by when he saw me working on what he thought was a Dino....it was a replica. He said "Ferrari doesn't like it when people do that".

Oh, and even Factory Five had a Spyder!

[roadrashrob]

That was a bribe? Darn. I drank so much of it I forgot the color you told me! :-)

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[Scott Meyer]

All I can share is it’s one of these colors?!?! We’ve been spraying out many test colors to find the one Liam likes the best and I can accurately recreate! I’m not very consistent with multi-stage pearls…so that has heavily weighed on my decision.153837

There was one critical item I almost forgot to cut and test install before paint!
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[Scott Meyer]

Trunk panel is painted and cleared…will save the full color reveal and details until later…gotta leave some drama on here!

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[Jetfuel]

Really Scott???drama????
anyway….go here
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40506-2022-Calendars-Request-for-818-photos

I know you have tons “drama” pictures so let’s make this happen

Jet

[Scott Meyer]

Okay Jet, no more drama. The color is definitely not Thermal Orange Pearl anymore, decided I’m sick of bodywork and want it done. Our previous color choice was a minimum of 2 coats of white base, and 4-5 mid-coats of the orange pearl…and everything needs to be painted at same time in correct orientation. So Liam and I compared notes on his most favorite colors that were not metallics or pearls, and those spray outs where our choices. He decided on Porsche Miami Blue. It was a limited availability color from 2017-2020, paint code is M5C/J5.

If you are ordering a new Porsche, and really like this color, for a low sum of at least $12K over the base color choices, you can have the factory in Stuttgart do a PTS (Paint to Sample) “custom” color…which just means you can pick from a list of some 200 + colors Porsche has developed, done their durability testing on, and used on their cars in the past, and also wait the up to one year for a slot to have the PTS applied, since they currently outsource this option to 2 different specialty companies. It’s rumored Porsche is looking to expand their Zufffenhausen assembly plant (where the 718 and 992’s are manufactured) to bring this option/painting in house to allow more “allocation slots” throughout the production year for the PTS program. Funny all of the things you learn while researching paint (and Porsche’s)!

I was able to acquire the paint locally through Napa Auto/Martin Senor Cross/Fire Base Coat, and still use all of the 2K primers and 2K clear coats already on hand.

At a recent car show event, here is a 993 GT3 in this stunning color!
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Here is the trunk lid finished (rushed the clear coat and have some solvent pop from base coat to clean up…I.e sand and recoat)
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And today got the engine cover and bumper ready from wet sanded primer to base coat:
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The really nice thing with this color is, I can paint several panels at a time and not have to do the entire car at once, and the color matches since there is no “flake or pearl” in it! just a solid vivid color base. It looks like it has some pearl in the sunlight though!

[FFRWRX]

Wow! Talk about a change of direction in paint color. Will really need to see it on the assembled car to see what I think (not that you really care that much :) )

[Scott Meyer]

Wow! Talk about a change of direction in paint color. Will really need to see it on the assembled car to see what I think (not that you really care that much :) )

With the black accents (front bumper, windshield frame, soft top), carbon fiber and the dark gray wheels, it will look stunning!

[Scott Meyer]

Clear coated these panels and dragged into sunlight after a few hours of curing:

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[roadrashrob]

Can't wait to see them mounted on the car! I love the color!!!

[Scott Meyer]

Next three panels (front) have been body work finished, DA sanded to 320, and just shot the first coat of 2K urethane primer!

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The grill is almost ready but got tired of sanding all the nooks.

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[Jetfuel]

That looks great…now…are you leaving anything for Liam to do or this is going to be Scott’s car???

Jet…lol

[Scott Meyer]

That looks great…now…are you leaving anything for Liam to do or this is going to be Scott’s car???

Jet…lol

Yeah should update my signature. Body work and paint were always going to be my jobs. Liam is not back home until Thanksgiving and then a month around the winter holidays between semesters…which he’ll spend on the chassis cleanup and dash, etc.

2nd coat of primer was applied, cured for 4 hours and started block sanding. Messy/dusty work!

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[egchewy79]

Looking great Scott. Can't wait to see you and Liam cruising around Dublin sometime. You wouldn't be interested in doing my body and paint for my MK4, would you?;)

[Jeff Kleiner]

...started block sanding. Messy/dusty work!



No! Really? :p Nancy calls me "Pigpen"

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139076&d=1607787408

Keep it up and Michelle may start doing the same!

Jeff

[Scott Meyer]

No! Really? :p Nancy calls me "Pigpen"

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139076&d=1607787408

Keep it up and Michelle may start doing the same!

Jeff

Good to hear from you Jeff! I spent 30 minutes literally vacuuming the dryfall paint from the garage floor after lunch...to keep her happy. Can't have her walking into that when she gets home!

[Scott Meyer]

Miami Blue Pig Pen!

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[Scott Meyer]

Had some setbacks with my painting setup but think that is resolved now. Front clip is done (minus final cut and polish) and temporarily set back on chassis!

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[Jetfuel]

That's such a cool freaking color.
Liam is going to flip out...as long as you kept him in the dark.

Jet

[Rob T]

So cool....If you look closely in the first pic, you can see your reflection when taking the picture.

[Scott Meyer]

If you guys are interested…here are some of the pitfalls and struggles and how I overcame them. Last few weeks I’ve been getting what I thought was solvent pop in all of my clears. Even switched products, extended my flash times, etc. Called my old fried Jeff Kleiner to ask his thoughts…he was thinking “water from the air compressor”…and then Friday my compressor “died”…forcing another setback and recovery. Monday I went to HF and got a replacement 3HP air pump to replace mine which seemed to have seized up and some other items to tune up the compressor. As I was removing the belt guard, it became obvious the belt I had replaced last fall, was slipping, and the electric motor was NOT turning the air pump due to a loose belt! Pump was fine. With that fixed it was on to replacing the drain at the bottom which was also broken. After purging the tank, and removing the entire petcock assembly this came out of the tank (x2):
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So now I’ve got a new 2-stage inline desiccant and water/oil trap, new rubber hose with High Flow fittings…and a dedicated paint booth area with exhaust fans. The tools are fixed…and now the results of why I had to do this:
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The hood had been sanded and prepped for a flow coat last Friday, right when the compressor stopped. I had enough stored air pressure to spray this out, but got distracted by a phone call as I was spraying on a solvent based wax/grease cleaner…and it dried on hood. Reactivated it (or so I thought) and cleaned/wiped and then sprayed the last coat of clear that separated from panel. Jeff also shared he never uses W&G cleaners once base coat is sprayed. Just water and let dry if you need to dirt nib an area. That was my worst day yet ever of painting. Let it cure for 24 hours and sanded it back down to 320 dry/400-600 wet, and then re-cleared it again with two more coats. Did the same for the trunk lid.
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There are few pictures of the fender after cutting and buffing (1500-2000-2500-3000 wet sanding) and three stage polishing using the Norton Liquid Ice system.
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[Ajzride]

This is why I’ve switched to a 4-stage turbine based HVLP. It’s so humid here that it takes a professional air system to get dry air. The downside of the turbine is lack of options on spray guns, but still easier to get good results for a DIY job.

Congrats on fighting through it, car looks phenomenal.

[Mechie3]

I approve of this color!

[aquillen]

I approve of this color!

Count me in too. Have to come see in person some time... :)

[Scott Meyer]

The remaining body panels have been removed. The quarters required a stand to work on and paint easier. Sanding prep and final spot glazing is done, these are ready for primer.

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Next up is removing the door skins from the frames and final sanding prep.

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Now that is done, Hope to spray primer tomorrow while it’s still warmer! Have some small heaters for my home paint booth but nice to utilize Mother Nature for a bit longer…

[lance corsi]

I like your stand for working the quarter panels. Permission to copy?
Nicely done.

[Scott Meyer]

I mostly copied the idea from Art! Some simple scrap lumber I had, considered putting castors on the bottom to roll around but it’s light I enough I can move without.

These four panels are now curing, got the multiple coats of 2K Urethane primer applied this morning!

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[Scott Meyer]

Wish I could say the painting was done…but at least I’m finished with the Miami Blue color.

Wanted enhanced protection of the rocker panels and rear fender flares, so taped a clean line and used stone guard spray that was part of the paint system I used.

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Followed that up with two coats of base and two coats of clear:

[Scott Meyer]

Wrapping up the 2021 year with another monthly post/update on our build. Liam is home for the winter break, and finally got interested in doing more wiring and helping with some final assembly.

I’ve been slowly cutting (dry sanding with Kovac system on 3” and 6” rotary DA) and polishing the panels for assembly. It’s a process that really test your patience.

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So we decided to get back onto something rewarding and make the car look finished. Headlights. These turned out pretty good, and they work, and are fully installed into the fenders!

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Hella Driving lights installed:

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And last is Liam sorting through the wiring to clean it up, loomed and organized.

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[aquillen]

Sweet.

[Scott Meyer]

The final two parts were prepped, primered and sprayed in Mercedes Jet Black and two coats of clear!

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[roadrashrob]

Can't wait to see it all together!!!

[Scott Meyer]

Now that the body work and painting has been completed, we started pre-assembly of the body panels so they are ready to go! Just a quick peak at the rear bumper (license plate is from another car…we haven’t gotten the State inspection yet).

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Also followed the advice (Rob Boettcher) and sourced another set of sedan rear seat belts and had them re-webbed by Safety Restore…color nicely compliments the exterior.

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And the last really big project (well maybe…), the Vintage Air system. Huge thanks again to AZPete and for paving the way (Pete) and RoadRashRob for his help in fabricating some parts, helping source the OEM hoses from a Long Island vintage air dealer, and bouncing ideas back and forth for routing the lines. I stuck with the EZ-fit hose and it’s a huge learning curve, but makes sense now. Happy with the results of the physical install, just have to tap in the heater lines at the engine, and tackle the wiring and dash controls.

[Scott Meyer]

More pics…

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[roadrashrob]

Now that the body work and painting has been completed, we started pre-assembly of the body panels so they are ready to go! Just a quick peak at the rear bumper (license plate is from another car…we haven’t gotten the State inspection yet).

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Also followed the advice (Rob Boettcher) and sourced another set of sedan rear seat belts and had them re-webbed by Safety Restore…color nicely compliments the exterior.

161710161709

And the last really big project (well maybe…), the Vintage Air system. Huge thanks again to AZPete and for paving the way (Pete) and RoadRashRob for his help in fabricating some parts, helping source the OEM hoses from a Long Island vintage air dealer, and bouncing ideas back and forth for routing the lines. I stuck with the EZ-fit hose and it’s a huge learning curve, but makes sense now. Happy with the results of the physical install, just have to tap in the heater lines at the engine, and tackle the wiring and dash controls.

Hey. I recognize that last picture! :-)

[Scott Meyer]

Speakers installed, 818 moved back to its original spot in the garage, and the rear quarters sort of reinstalled!

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[egchewy79]

Looking great Scott! Can't wait to see you zooming around Dublin

[aquillen]

We do we caravan?

[Scott Meyer]

Decided last weekend to start the reassembly…mainly because we need to transport the 818 to our new home in the next few months…more on that later. Almost done with the body panels…just need to put the doors together and hang/align. About 60% done with the soft-top installation. Interior has been mocked up and installed and removed a few times. A/C and heater installed just needs charged and electrical completed. Speakers installed and head unit wired, need to complete the sub woofer and final install. Have the carpet just not started yet…. 90% complete and 90% left to go!

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And we have another roadster currently on a RORO in the mid-Atlantic coming from Germany that will be dads new toy! Picture is from the factory…

[roadrashrob]

Looks great Scott!

[Scott Meyer]

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Almost done…but RodTops forgot to install the three snaps in the canvas rear flap that attaches the top to the tension bow…DUH!

[aquillen]

Oh yeah baby - on both of them... :)

[egchewy79]

Looking great Scott. Where are you guys moving?

[Scott Meyer]

Palm Harbor, Florida 😎

[Scott Meyer]

We took it upon ourselves to install the windshield glass. Got a set of the suction cup handles and a tube of 3M urethane windshield adhesive sealant. Dry fit and realized it doesn’t sit up high enough to have a even gap. Thanks F5 for that…nothing some windshield edge gasket won’t cover up. Also the glass/screen doesn’t exactly match the contour of the fiberglass frame at the two lower corners. Without stressing the glass we taped it in place and back caulked the inside to fill those gaps and let it cure. Mirror also installed!

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[mcamera]

I decided to randomly check in and I see this beautiful Miami blue 818! This was 1 of 3 colors I was debating and now I see why. It looks great Scott and Liam!

[Scott Meyer]

Moving day is this Saturday…so car is mostly ready to transport on a trailer!

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https://youtube.com/shorts/PiT5w15WXaA?feature=share

[egchewy79]

looks great. you and Liam did a great job on this project. best of luck with your move to FL. hope to run into you again one of these days, maybe at London

[Scott Meyer]

Thanks!

The soft top is definitely a Rube Goldberg process to install. Final three snaps in canvas top and the two on back side of A-pillars are now done and it’s ready to go…

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[Scott Meyer]

Need to update our signature soon…no longer in Dublin, OH

After two days of slower than expected travel…the 818 and soft top are holding up on the highway…on a open trailer.

First night we made it to Knoxville, TN
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Went down the Smoky’s and thru Chattanooga/Atlanta and tonight we stopped in Valdosta,GA
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What a royal PITA it is moving yourself…

Tomorrow we roll into the new HQ in Palm Harbor FL

[FFRWRX]

We took it upon ourselves to install the windshield glass....

Nice job! Any reason not to install it yourself that you can see? If it is just glued in then no fancy moldings needed. I've got the 818C so I suppose I could do the rear and small side ones too. Maybe mask it inside and out to prevent any smears of adhesive.

I'm also wondering about painting the area where the windshield goes. Do you paint it black first to prevent any color showing through? It may sound like a strange concern, but what if you paint it with something that doesn't adhere to the car paint well enough and the windshield is glued basically to the paint.

Rick

[Scott Meyer]

Rick,

I had painted the entire windshield frame and clear coated it before we installed the glass. I have had enough windshields replaced and always seen the tape holding in place for a day until the urethane sets. On the windshield I did have to get some rubber gasket to help cover up the uneven gaps…believe or not, the MR2 windshield does not fit the fiberglass opening correctly. It was a roll of OEM style gasket with 2-way tape from Amazon. We should have dry for the glass before paint … but it’s heavy and awkward and feared cracking it. 4 months and 1000 miles (trailered) and it’s held up no issues!

[Scott Meyer]

Realized it has been 8 months since the last post...and it has been longer than that since we really worked on the 818. Since moving, we have not really gotten back into working on the car at all. We sat down about a month ago and worked for a few hours, and wrote out a punch list of sorts to complete the car...but alas, no energy.

Liam has started a new job at the local Honda Dealership in Express Tech, and started a VoTech program to become a certified ASE mechanic. It's about an 18 month program...school in the morning and work until 7 each night. Needless to say his comment about "after working on other peoples cars all day, I have not energy to work on the 818 when I am home" struck a nerve with me. The car is more disassembled now then ever, so we could properly finish the build before registration.

I am at a crossroads...neither of us really like working on the project anymore, and my wife says sell it. I feel like if I could work on it a few hours a week, it would be done in a month or so. Would it be better to finish it and get the registration in Florida or sell it as is?

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[FFRWRX]

Far better off (financially) to finish it and then sell it; if you still want to sell it after finishing it. Many people, including myself, have bought a partially finished 818 at a huge loss to the original owner/builder. But if it is going to be a real mental chore to work on it, and not something you are going to enjoy at all, then it is a much tougher decision. You car looks great and it would be a shame to sell it as-is.

Rick

[Jeff Kleiner]

Hey Scott! Hope you and the family are all doing well. Sounds like Liam has chosen a different career path; one that should serve him well. I can sure relate to his “After working on other people’s cars all day…” comment! I think you probably already know that the car will have more value completed and registered. If you haven’t been following along, after many years of being kind of the “wild, wild West” and one of the easiest states to register in Florida has become somewhat more difficult and restrictive. As for the Cobra replicas the state titles them as the current year and “assembled from parts”. Makes sense to me because that’s exactly what they are but the owners want them to be 1965 and Cobras. FFR has been working with the state to try to get them to restructure how kits and replicas are dealt with but things don’t seem to be in order yet. The 818 may well be an entirely different can of worms since it doesn’t replicate anything. I suggest that you look into it sooner rather than later if you haven’t already done so.

Cheers,
Jeff

[Jetfuel]

I’ll second Mr Kleiner suggestion
Get that thing registered with whatever minimum requirements are.
After you have a plate placed on the back of that car you two will start to drive it and a new fire will be lit under your feet to do the fine tuning and get it to what you guys envisioned it could be…

Jet…c’mon

[Scott Meyer]

Thanks for the replies guys...I already knew the answer to my quiz, but it's good to hear your feedback. Having already built and sold a Mk. 3 roadster and an Experimental Aircraft...I have found you still loose your arse on these projects, but not as much if they are finished and registered.

Jeff, I have watched some of the other threads on FL registration...it seems to be a mixed bag of results depending on location in the state. Being we are located in one of the most densely populated counties (Pinellas) it may not be that bad. I had great luck with registering the other 4 cars and Jetski's last year plus getting all of our new drivers licenses...we shall see.

Mainly, it's good to get some positive feedback...I still am not sure we will keep the project 818. It was fun, but in the interim my wife acquired a 2007 Porsche Cayman, and I also got my "toy" a new Porsche 718 Boxster. So the 818 feels like a "clone of these two cars" but not the refinement. 182200

[Rob T]

Another idea: I'm not sure you are interested, but the 818(r) makes a pretty decent track vehicle once it is sorted out. It is very easy on brakes and tires. There would be no need to register it AND fit and finish only needs to be track chic. I, too, have a Porsche, and tracked it for a while, but there is definitely "peace of mind" taking a car to the track on a trailer as opposed to driving it there and needing to drive it home. Tires and brakes for the Porsche were crazy expensive. I drove my 818R and my friends Cayman back to back on the track in New Mexico. I was two seconds faster in the 818, with no nannies on my 818. I suspect, if I were a better driver, the 818 would be much faster. To be fair, the Cayman/Boxster is one of the best sports cars on the planet, but not one I would track regularly (too expensive for my risk/reward budget). You and Liam might enjoy the "race reliability" technical challenge more than some of the other aspects. I know I do.

[dpariso]

Hey Scott, just sent you a PM

[Scott Meyer]

Hi all fellow 818 builders…sorry it’s been a long stretch since any posts. We have made “some” progress, still not registered though. Last two times we’ve run the engine it’s either trying to overheat or it’s puking a lot (0.5L) of coolant out of the front overflow tank.

Thought we did a proper vacuum purge and fill process 2-years ago. Don’t see any visible coolant leaks that would be introducing air. Tonight I tried to jack up engine (rear) and lower front as much as possible, and fill from rear port (we have the EJ253 n/a) but after engine got warm enough to kick on electric fan, almost 1L of coolant pushed out into a “fill/purge funnel” I had set up on the radiator cap.

Thoughts? Should I reverse the incline and lower rear and raise the nose and repeat the process?187800187801187802187803187804

[Ajzride]

I tried every "trick" on this forum to bleed the system. Vacuum systems, lifting and jacking, standing on my left foot with my right thumb against my 7th vertebra... none of them worked. I finally copied Bob's design and built a blending system that used 1/4" hose tied into several locations and took all of those back to the expansion tank.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?31639-Aj-s-818S-in-Houston&p=412847&viewfull=1#post412847

[Scott Meyer]

For the last 3 weeks, I’ve been trying to get back into the habit of “do something everyday”…

The interior is on my to do list right now. Here’s what I’ve accomplished this month:
1. Connected all wiring for the vintage air A/C unit, compressor and trinary switch.
2. Connected all speaker, stereo and subwoofer wiring
3. Installed, wired and tested operation of FFR/Forma Cars wiper motor and arm
4. Completed sound deadening
5. Completed all test fit of Subaru radio stack, center console to F5 dash pad
6. Carpeting in progress, using glue on instabind carpet edge binding for a more finished look at the door sills.

Photos attached for proof!

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[Scott Meyer]

Just now realizing it’s been almost 7-months since the last post. Where have we been? What’s been completed?

Well…not much. Just about the time we were getting into the groove…my wife decided we needed a “she shed” at home so we could then do a full blown kitchen and interior remodel of our home :(…and also redo the exterior pavers, fencing and pool!

Lots a projects nearly finished on the house…very little on the 818…however I began unburying it in the garage this week.

Also got a set of QuickJacks for my birthday last September and the car is stored on those now and got to visit Factory 5 up in MA and see their operation and the poor abandoned 818’s they have in storage.196748196749196750196751196754196755196752 196753

[Scott Meyer]

Much like my friend Rob, our 818 build has restarted again for the final push. The weather cooled off enough in SW Florida to be enjoyable working out in the garage. I’ve rewritten the punch list (now on a small piece of paper) and it’s always rewarding to cross off tasks.

The final bits of wiring in the rear is complete. Third brake light, license plate nut lights, and rear back up camera functional.

The interior is darn near finished, and looks really good (nearly like a production car). We have full heat and A/C, integrated the Impreza center console, and double din radio stack with an Apple CarPlay touch screen unit. Four speaker and subwoofer. Carpet and seat tracks all completed.

Front splitter just got installed.

Made my own version of a prop rod for the trunk lid using OEM parts from Toyota and Honda.

Wheel well (rear) inner arch liners installed. Ride height and rough alignment done.

Floor undercoated with rhino liner.

Just have to install the H-Pipe for the heater bypass line and refill the cooling system, and then we can take the car to the shop Liam works at. His boss is going to help fabricate a real muffle setup, and then he can align the 818 and charge the A/C system using professional tools.

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[wallace18]

You have done a really nice job on this car. You should be proud.:cool:

[Scott Meyer]

Thank you, I’ve read your Florida registration posts several times, but might ask you a couple of pointers if you don’t mind? The links on your thread to the Florida websites are now broken…

[Rob T]

Your car looks fantastic. One small thing. I exclusively track my car, but until I put some protection on the radiator, it was getting "shelled" by debris, which was bending fins and causing all sorts of other issues. I can't see if there is something in there, but it might be a good idea. Obviously, not the same as on the track, but might be worthwhile. I can't wait to see how you like the car once you get it registered.

[mcamera]

Looking good guys! I'm excited to hear what you think about it after driving around for a week.

[driveslikejehu]

Really looks great; nice job! The detail work really shows.

[Dave 53]

Impressive!

[aquillen]

Scott - looking great. I was hoping you'd stick with it. Still in love with mine up here - but too cold to be driving it around on summer tires.

[jbs72697]

The car looks great!