Nose Repair Thread

[timmil]

So a few weekends back I posted about my battle with the parking lot barriers Parking Lot 1 - Cobra 0 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?37040-Bonehead-in-Parking-Lot-Look-out). Everyone has been great (as usual) in encouraging me to tackle the repair myself, so that is what I am going to do. Never done any fiberglass work but as many of you have pointed out it is a forgiving medium and many have posted some great links to resources (thank you). So that is what this thread is about, my journey on giving the car a nose job.

So I got out in the garage this morning and was able to really take an up close look.

Here is the piece that was broke off...
134436

And then here is the body...
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Now based on my research I don't think this will be a big deal to rebond the piece, but I am not sure about how to approach it.

Should I square it off and reglass? For example, cut along the red lines, sand down the surrounding area and reglass?
134440

OR since the two mate back up pretty well, do I use a slurry/filler to rebond?
134438

I spent some time studying this thread on fiberglass work (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?35544-Fiberglass-Tips-Tricks-Methods-and-Materials&highlight=visqueen) (Thanks GoDadGo!) and I am thinking that I will be able to use some form of a slurry or filler to rebond but I am not sure. Being a fiberglass newbie I am hoping you experts can provide much needed and GREATLY appreciated guidance.

Looking forward to hearing about the best approach.

Tim

[totem]

I would not cut square. Keep a large mating surface to avoid an obvious weak point that would crack.

I once broke off the piece between the front fender and the exhaust cut-out. The part and damage was similar to yours.

I sanded the mating surfaces to make certain they fit without protrusions, glued the pieces with fibre glass resin, added two layer of fibre glass cloth behind. Then finished the outside with filler.

[johnnybgoode]

With the fit of the broken part being that good I would suggest using some of this CA Glue and Accelerator or similar.

https://www.amazon.ca/Bob-Smith-Industries-BSI-131H-Insta-Cure/dp/B01FUFWN8Q/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Bob+Smith+Industries+BSI-133H&qid=1598720464&sr=8-1&tag=19ghcan-20
https://www.amazon.ca/Bob-Smith-Industries-BSI-151H-Accelerator/dp/B0166FFCCS/ref=pd_bxgy_img_2/146-3195169-2414518?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0166FFCCS&pd_rd_r=3298e82b-c213-4d66-94d1-c6ea545761bf&pd_rd_w=DsgZw&pd_rd_wg=Z9WX2&pf_rd_p=651c6196-5161-4602-81e9-26b0f9bf89e1&pf_rd_r=QRP9A0KYNW45G9D8N3RG&psc=1&refRID=QRP9A0KYNW45G9D8N3RG

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dOw9VfA6n2s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=egeXx7DvYT4

You can fit the broken piece back in like a puzzle piece. Hold it in with tape and small spring clamps and try to get it fitting as tight as possible so you have the smallest crack in the painted surface/gelcoat. You may have to trim a few fibres with scissors to make it fit without any gaps. Once you have it fitting together and held in place with tape and clamps put on some latex gloves, come in from behind the body and drip a few small drops of the CA glue on the area of the crack/broken fibreglass. You will see the CA wick into the fibres. Spray the area with a shot of the accelerator and it will dry instantly in that area. The great thing with the CA is you can bond a small area and then still move the piece in another area to get a better/tighter fit. Repeat this process until you have gone all around the crack. Use the CA sparingly as it will run everywhere and you want to try and keep it off your paint. You should now be able to remove the clamps and tape and you should just have a small crack in the gelcoat of the nose where the damage was. Mix up some resin and use a few strips of 2 oz. fibreglass cloth to reinforce the repair from the rear.

Depending on how well the broken piece is able to be fitted back onto the body you may be able to use touch up paint to finish the job. If the surface does not match up that well you will have to sand, fill and paint. Good Luck. Scott

[AC Bill]

I'm certainly no expert on fiberglass repair, but I think that if you do use a slurry, (or perhaps some HSRF?), to kind of glue the section back in place, you would still want to apply a few layers of cloth and resin, over the backside, to reinforce it.

[GoDadGo]

Please Know That I'm Not A Bodyshop Guy, But I Played With A Lot Of Fiberglass Over My Lifetime Building Fiberglass Boats.

The first thing you need to do is to make sure you can reinstall the piece in the exact location that it needs to be and secure it mechanically or with painters or aluminum tape.

1. You want to clean the back of the body to expose fresh fiberglass if you have any bed liner or undercoating on the body including your puzzle piece.
2. Wipe the affected area with Acetone which will degrees, clean, and soften up the existing glass on the parts.
3. Mix up about a pint of resin and wet the edges around the body and puzzle pieces before reinstalling it.
4. Secure the puzzle piece and tape the outside of the body and glass it from the backside like the fellow did with the boat repair shown below.

https://youtu.be/3OAoPKSZSLA

5. After it cures you are going to need to sand the outer part of the body and glass that too so that your repair is double-sided.
6. Float and smooth out with your favorite body filler sand and re-paint.

Most body shops can easily tackle the entire process Especially If They Mess With Corvettes because this won't be a foreign or unusual method for them.

My Bodywork Videos:
https://youtu.be/6UK6K2jcwTU
https://youtu.be/po1Bb2_XDDk

Feel free to message me if I can be of any assistance.

[nucjd19]

GDG and Johnnyb!!!! Those were amazing posts with a ton of info. I will be following this thread to learn how to repair stuff like this.

[CraigS]

I have used a slurry which works fine and gets a little more material there on the first round. The technique I always use because it is what West System says to do, is much like godads. Mix up some epoxy and brush it onto the mating areas so they are fully wet. Then quick add in your filler powder to make the slurry (something between mayonaise and smooth peanut butter) and brush it on one of the surfaces. I always have 4-5-6 one inch throw away brushes on hand to apply the epoxy with. BTW West System has a ton of info for you.
https://www.westsystem.com/

[GoDadGo]

I have used a slurry which works fine and gets a little more material there on the first round. The technique I always use because it is what West System says to do, is much like godads. Mix up some epoxy and brush it onto the mating areas so they are fully wet. Then quick add in your filler powder to make the slurry (something between mayonaise and smooth peanut butter) and brush it on one of the surfaces. I always have 4-5-6 one inch throw away brushes on hand to apply the epoxy with. BTW West System has a ton of info for you.
https://www.westsystem.com/

Craig,

I'm wondering if Evercoat Fibertech might be able to be used since it is a fairly wet resin-based structural filler.

https://youtu.be/JwAErvc2tN4

The first and only time I used this stuff it was to build up the cowl area of my doors and to backfill the driver side door where I split it.

Steve

[timmil]

Ok, so after spending time doing research and watching LOTS of videos, I think I have put together a list of the supplies that I am going to need.

1. 80 grit sand disks to prep the back and front of the area
2. 1qt of 700 Vinyl Ester Resin (http://www.uscomposites.com/polyesters.html)
3. 1yrd of the 2oz Chopped Strand Mat (http://www.uscomposites.com/mat.html)
4. Mixing Cups (https://www.amazon.com/LETS-RESIN-Mixing-Epoxy-Sticks/dp/B07GD92529/ref=sr_1_11?crid=G0IKSLDY4NEV&dchild=1&keywords=resin+mixing+cups+and+sticks&qid=1598821074&sprefix=resin+mixing%2Caps%2C157&sr=8-11)
5. 1in Width brushes (for epoxy application)

I am sure that I am missing something, so let me know what it is. :D And if you have any suggestions on the brushes I am all ears. :)

Tim

[CraigS]

GoDad sorry to say I don't have any experience w/ that specific product. Way back in the day I have used whatever I found at an auto parts store. 20 yrs ago on boat projects I started using West system because it was widely regarded as the best. I really like their pumps. One pump epoxy = one pump hardner for a perfect mix ratio. I also like their available mixers so you end up w/ mixes that are best for different purposes.
Timmil, #6 is hardner. I just use the wood handle bristle cheap brushes available at any hardware store. You may want a couple of 1.5 inches too.
https://www.amazon.com/Pack-inch-Paint-Brushes-Stains/dp/B087Q27KH1/ref=asc_df_B087Q27KH1/?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=&hvpos=&hvnetw=o&hvrand=&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583589111371149&psc=1