Stock clutch cable quadrant over adjusting

[scottiec]

Hi Guys,

On my mkIV I am using an sn95 pedal box that has the stock plastic auto adjusting quadrant. I do have the adjuster from Forte to adjust cable tension. I adjust everything so that the clutch fork is not exerting and pressure on the throwout bearing.

After some spirited shifting, the auto adjusts and really tightens up the cable putting more pressure on the throwout bearing than I think is necessary. Ultimately, I really spent a lot of money on this bottom end and would hate to eat a thrust bearing.

Is my only solution buying a new quadrant? If so, how miserable is the install since it is in the car...

Thanks guys!

[rich grsc]

Fords have the throwout bearings running on the clutch forks, how the came from the factory. There should be no problem with the amount of tension the small spring on the adjuster applies, after all it can only auto adjust if there is slack in the cable.

[scottiec]

It just feels like it has gotten tighter than usual. But you are right, this is a Ford part put on their cars so it shouldnt cause problems.

[glastron351]

Hey Scottiec-I went through this exact situation a few weeks back. The stock nylon gear mesh quadrant and self adjustment teeth are not meant for performance clutches and will eventually fail. I ended going with a BBK quadrant and firewall adjuster kit (BBK 15055) but there are many options...Steeda and Summit also make them. After replacing the quadrant it made a huge difference in clutch pedal feel, no more notchiness and smoother pedal depression.

I also replaced mine with the body on and it was easier than I thought it would be. You should be able to access most of it from the access panel in the top of your drivers footwell. Don't worry about breaking the nylon ratchet gear when taking it off as you will not need it with your firewall adjuster. In all it took me about 1 to 1.5 hours.....

Any further questions feel free to text me at 204-224-4081. Do to my remote location (Google Slave Falls Powerhouse if your curious) it's not always possible for me to get to the forums.

[Norm B]

I believe the clutch cable gets tighter as the clutch disc wears. If you only cut off the small piece of the adjuster release as part of the donor part modification, you can hook your toe under the pedal and pull back. This will release the adjuster and add slack to the cable. The spring in the adjuster will apply the appropriate pre-load to the cable and throw out bearing.

HTH

Norm

[scottiec]

Sorry for the late reply on this guys. Thank you for the help.

Norm - that is exactly what I do, I pull the pedal up to release the adjuster.

Glastron - I will look into one of the other quandrants.


Thanks guys!

[CraigS]

When you look at various quadrants get the one w/ the widest channel for the cable. We usually have a slightly less than perfect cable alignment and you don't want the edge of the channel grinding on the cable. I also slightly rounded over the edges of the channel since they could almost be called sharp on mine. As you are assembling the cable look down from the top as best you can to see how it approaches the quadrant and how it's coming out of the hole in the in the sheath. If it's at a bit of an angle, pull it out of the firewall, find a socket that fits inside the short tube section, add an 8-10 inch extension and use it to bend it into better alignment. I bet 90% of the cables that snap do it right there were it exits the sheath. I know mine did. BTW I agree I don't like how the auto adjuster works in our cars. But I also know that the T/O bearing is designed to be in contact w/ the PP. So I adjust mine for just the slightest contact.