Time To Plan My First Build!

[BeePea]

Hello FFR Forum Friends!

Long time lurker/build thread reader, first time buyer!

Looking to order my kit within the next two months and wanted to be sure I was fully prepped and ready to go; I’m hoping the experts here can help advise me where I might be missing things.

Bare minimum to get the car working:

MK4 Complete Kit
15inch Wheels & Tires
8.8 Rear End
Rear Brakes Package
Engine & Trans
Battery


My engine choice so far is blueprint 427 with power steering, I know the 427 is overkill but I like big engines and I worry I would regret it later on… still not sure if it’s the right choice… For the power steering side, what additional parts do I need to make that functional?

My garage is pretty tight, when my two cars (2016 Camaro and 2016 Mazda CX-5) are in I have extremely limited space on the sides. During the build both cars will be in the driveway, but will this limited space make the build difficult? Body will be on a buck in the same garage.

What are some must have garage items? Let’s pretend I have nothing (not the case, but don’t want to assume I have something when I don’t), what should I have?

Some examples I can think of…

Jack stands
Low profile jack
Standard ratchet set
Etc



Finally, are there any must have add-ons? The build threads are great, but they span a lot of time and I know different items come and go in the market, is there a settled list of items that people generally go with?

Thank you all so very much, sorry for all the questions, I just like to be prepared as possible!

Blake

[Hacksaw84]

Not to sound uninterested in answering your question but... I would spend some time on here searching your tools question. There are several times this has come up. Compile that list and post it here for guys to comment on if you are missing anything. I think tha will a long way instead of just asking for a complete list. Having said that... Drill, lots of bits, rivet gun (prefer not only manual), engine lift. Just to name a short few.

The first list of major items is just that, I probably have a thousand little things on my spreadsheet. It all depends on how many mods or upgrades you want to do. Check out Breeze's site for sure.

[BeePea]

Not to sound uninterested in answering your question but... I would spend some time on here searching your tools question. There are several times this has come up. Compile that list and post it here for guys to comment on if you are missing anything. I think tha will a long way instead of just asking for a complete list. Having said that... Drill, lots of bits, rivet gun (prefer not only manual), engine lift. Just to name a short few.

The first list of major items is just that, I probably have a thousand little things on my spreadsheet. It all depends on how many mods or upgrades you want to do. Check out Breeze's site for sure.

Thanks, totally agreed with you, was hoping for something like an existing list to leverage, wasn't hoping for someone to go off the top of their head! I'm less worried about the tools, I have a good amount and access to everything else via my Father-In-Law, I'm more worried about the car itself, especially around the power steering, if I get the power steering kit from FFR and the power steering option from Blueprint, is there more I need to make it work? I think that's really my main outstanding knowledge.

[Ponymedic]

Oh Boy are you going to get suggestions. We are REALLY good at spending other people's (and our own) money. Two quick thoughts, My experience with Blueprint Engines has been great. Whatever engine you choose to order I'm sure you will be happy with their product. A couple of must have tools would be a pneumatic riveter, a rivet spacing tool from Breeze or others (https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/rivet-fan-spacing-tool/), a bunch of 1/8 double sided drill bits and an engine hoist in addition to all the normal hand tools. Im sure others will add to the list. I'm just finishing my build and one thing I learned more than anything else is Plan your build and build your plan. Doing it once is expensive doing it twice just hurts. (ask me how I know)

[RBachman]

On tools,
I'm a bit of a tool hound, so I already had most of this stuff. But I found it all helpful and made things easier.

A good set of english and metric allen wrenches
3/8" and 1/2" metric and english socket sets
The usual wrenches, screw drivers, and other hand tools (metric and english)
Torque wrench (Harbor Freight has a very good one at an even better price. It out performs my new $$$$ SnapOn.)
Pilers
Wire cutters
Vice Grips
Good drill, compact is best
Impact driver
Pry Bars
Electrical/wire tools and crimp pliers
Soldering gun and equipment
Heat gun for shrink wrapping on wires
Rivet Gun (I highly recommend pneumatic or electric. I have the Milwaukee cordless and it's fantastic.)
A metal saw. A common hacksaw will work, but it's a PITA. A larger jigsaw, or something like a Milwaukee Hackzall saw
Sheetmetal cutters
Automotive-like hammers to whack stuff with
Non-marring hammers to whack stuff and get away with it
Clecos and Cleco pliers
A spring loaded punch
Tape measures, rulers, digital calipers, and I also found one of my wife's sewing tapes rather handy. (I recommend buying your own or not telling her you took it.)
Nut/bolt thread and size gauge set. Metric and SAE
Grease gun & grease

[Hacksaw84]

Thanks, totally agreed with you, was hoping for something like an existing list to leverage, wasn't hoping for someone to go off the top of their head! I'm less worried about the tools, I have a good amount and access to everything else via my Father-In-Law, I'm more worried about the car itself, especially around the power steering, if I get the power steering kit from FFR and the power steering option from Blueprint, is there more I need to make it work? I think that's really my main outstanding knowledge.

Power steering isn't that complicated if you break it down into components. 1) Fluid 2) Pump 3) PS lines 4) PS Rack (not manual) 5) Tank

Some people add a cooler in the mix.

[Duster]

I went out and measured and if you have the body on a buck next to you while working on the car and leave yourself room on either side to get on a creeper etc. you need about 17 feet of width. Length is not bad as the car (without body) is only a tad longer than twelve feet. Maybe consider building a body buck that you can hang from the ceiling to give yourself more working space.

Consider holding off on your engine order if room is tight. My engine / trans just sat there for 5 or 6 months after it arrived 2 days after the car. But it did look cool.

After I built the suspension front and rear I put the wheels and tires on and then bought 12" tall Race Deck race ramps for the car to sit on. These gave me a good deal of room under the car to work with and they were very secure. Gave me more confidence (and room) than jack stands.

[BeePea]

Power steering isn't that complicated if you break it down into components. 1) Fluid 2) Pump 3) PS lines 4) PS Rack (not manual) 5) Tank

Some people add a cooler in the mix.

Thanks, so if I get the FFR kit and the Blueprint engine, am I covered?

[BeePea]

I went out and measured and if you have the body on a buck next to you while working on the car and leave yourself room on either side to get on a creeper etc. you need about 17 feet of width. Length is not bad as the car (without body) is only a tad longer than twelve feet. Maybe consider building a body buck that you can hang from the ceiling to give yourself more working space.

Consider holding off on your engine order if room is tight. My engine / trans just sat there for 5 or 6 months after it arrived 2 days after the car. But it did look cool.

After I built the suspension front and rear I put the wheels and tires on and then bought 12" tall Race Deck race ramps for the car to sit on. These gave me a good deal of room under the car to work with and they were very secure. Gave me more confidence (and room) than jack stands.

Just measured, have 16 feet of garage door, plus about 18 inches on each side that is mostly shelving, that shelving might need to go. Garage isn't too tall, I'll need to measure that to see if a celling buck would make more sense.

Definitely waiting on the engine purchase for space, already had to factor that in when I saw the crate sizes in the build threads. I like the ramp idea, I'll need to look into that.

[BeePea]

On tools,
I'm a bit of a tool hound, so I already had most of this stuff. But I found it all helpful and made things easier.

A good set of english and metric allen wrenches
3/8" and 1/2" metric and english socket sets
The usual wrenches, screw drivers, and other hand tools (metric and english)
Torque wrench (Harbor Freight has a very good one at an even better price. It out performs my new $$$$ SnapOn.)
Pilers
Wire cutters
Vice Grips
Good drill, compact is best
Impact driver
Pry Bars
Electrical/wire tools and crimp pliers
Soldering gun and equipment
Heat gun for shrink wrapping on wires
Rivet Gun (I highly recommend pneumatic or electric. I have the Milwaukee cordless and it's fantastic.)
A metal saw. A common hacksaw will work, but it's a PITA. A larger jigsaw, or something like a Milwaukee Hackzall saw
Sheetmetal cutters
Automotive-like hammers to whack stuff with
Non-marring hammers to whack stuff and get away with it
Clecos and Cleco pliers
A spring loaded punch
Tape measures, rulers, digital calipers, and I also found one of my wife's sewing tapes rather handy. (I recommend buying your own or not telling her you took it.)
Nut/bolt thread and size gauge set. Metric and SAE
Grease gun & grease

Thank you!

[D Stand]

When measuring your ceiling height also consider your garage door opened height. I built an elevated body buck on casters that rolls over the car. I can just roll it outside and work on the chassis. Might allow you to keep one of your cars in the other bay.

Everyone else have covered the tools. The mods are unlimited which is what makes it your unique car. I bought mine partially built so I got what I got when purchased. I thought I would be done by now (just over a year) but I have changed a bunch, reading this forum, build threads and such. I have no regrets taking more time as I am really enjoying the build process. Biggest change for me was relocating the fuse box to the center dash support area. There is lots of wires to extend and/or shorten but for me it is worth it in the end. I got this idea from lots of builders complaining about rain running down the windshield post dripping on the fuse panel. So careful what you ask for and spend the time looking at the build threads as you will learn a bunch....

Dale

[BeePea]

When measuring your ceiling height also consider your garage door opened height. I built an elevated body buck on casters that rolls over the car. I can just roll it outside and work on the chassis. Might allow you to keep one of your cars in the other bay.

Everyone else have covered the tools. The mods are unlimited which is what makes it your unique car. I bought mine partially built so I got what I got when purchased. I thought I would be done by now (just over a year) but I have changed a bunch, reading this forum, build threads and such. I have no regrets taking more time as I am really enjoying the build process. Biggest change for me was relocating the fuse box to the center dash support area. There is lots of wires to extend and/or shorten but for me it is worth it in the end. I got this idea from lots of builders complaining about rain running down the windshield post dripping on the fuse panel. So careful what you ask for and spend the time looking at the build threads as you will learn a bunch....

Dale

Thanks Dale! I've been reading older build threads, I should jump to some newer ones when I'm done with Papa's.

[BeePea]

Confirmed I have 7 feet hight, need to remeasure with the door open at the front, but 7 sounds right after I shaved some inches already.

[egchewy79]

make sure to get a 2 ton lift. the 1ton from HF doesn't have enough boom length to comfortably reach the engine mounts.

[gkp200]

You didn't tell us where you live, but you should research now what will be required to register in your state. I'm in VA and they require wipers. Much easier to install while building.

[CraigS]

You don't need an engine lift. Buy a come-a-long, an engine leveler, a long eyebolt and a 4x4x4ft. Lay the 4x4 across 3 trusses, drill a hole though it and the drywall ceiling. Install the eye bolt so it barely hangs below the ceiling. Hook the cable of the come-a-long to the eyebolt and the leveler to the other end.
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/hardware/chain-and-rope/load-binders/5896196
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/hardware/nuts-and-bolts/eyebolts/5702931
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200640936_200640936?cm_mmc=Bing-pla&utm_source=Bing_PLA&utm_medium=Automotive%20%3E%20Engine%20Hoists%20%2 B%20Stands&utm_campaign=Strongway&utm_content=46249&msclkid=aa6a5b80cc8e1bcc3f8c04bea904bb1b

[GoDadGo]

Mr. BeePea,

If you are going to use CraigS's method, just make sure you have a ceiling structure strong enough to handle the load.
Also, I personally like using a Chain-Fall over a Come-Along, but either will work.

Chain-Fall:
https://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-capacity-16-ft-extra-long-lift-chain-hoist-30324.html

1st Install:
https://youtu.be/3f1Q4aS5SG4
https://youtu.be/jiwelvNHUrk

Hopefully the only removal:
https://youtu.be/Vhbftk4AP4k

2nd and hopefully the final install:
https://youtu.be/-nVDzIjSjh8

Completed Car:
https://youtu.be/9WEe6-wdNtA

The engine leveler is really required no matter if you choose to use an engine hoist, ceiling joist or oak tree method.
Just be careful and make sure your process will be sound.

Welcome Aboard & Welcome to The Factory Five Family!

Steve

[Hacksaw84]

Thanks, so if I get the FFR kit and the Blueprint engine, am I covered?

I am not 100% sure. I got the base kit and pieced all mine together. You would need to know what comes in each of those kits. But you are probably pretty close.

[alexmak]

Hello FFR Forum Friends!

Finally, are there any must have add-ons? The build threads are great, but they span a lot of time and I know different items come and go in the market, is there a settled list of items that people generally go with?

Thank you all so very much, sorry for all the questions, I just like to be prepared as possible!

Blake

mastering google search for the forum will be an immense help to your process!

A couple of threads on must have mods
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27932-Must-Have-Kit-Mods
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?11993-List-of-essential-modifications

safety mods
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?31296-Safety-Mod%92s

I used these threads to build my list. here it is, I ended up doing almost everything on this list:

Must have
Heat/sound insulation
Mechanical Throttle Kit from Fortes Parts
battery relocation kit
Separate brake reservoirs
power steering
Seats sliders
Russ Thompson turn signal
Fire extinguisher
USB charging ports
Exhaust heat shields
Trunk mod for a little extra space

Nice to have
Different side mirrors
LED lighting
Breeze radiator shroud
Inner door panels
Cup holders

Other changes
Front and rear bumper grommets from finish line
Roll bar grommets

For later
Wilwood brakes

[BeePea]

make sure to get a 2 ton lift. the 1ton from HF doesn't have enough boom length to comfortably reach the engine mounts.

Thanks, I was looking at the 2 ton, is the 3 ton overkill?

[BeePea]

You don't need an engine lift. Buy a come-a-long, an engine leveler, a long eyebolt and a 4x4x4ft. Lay the 4x4 across 3 trusses, drill a hole though it and the drywall ceiling. Install the eye bolt so it barely hangs below the ceiling. Hook the cable of the come-a-long to the eyebolt and the leveler to the other end.
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/hardware/chain-and-rope/load-binders/5896196
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/hardware/nuts-and-bolts/eyebolts/5702931
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200640936_200640936?cm_mmc=Bing-pla&utm_source=Bing_PLA&utm_medium=Automotive%20%3E%20Engine%20Hoists%20%2 B%20Stands&utm_campaign=Strongway&utm_content=46249&msclkid=aa6a5b80cc8e1bcc3f8c04bea904bb1b

Father-in-law has the engine lift, so I'm covered there, but thank you!

[BeePea]

mastering google search for the forum will be an immense help to your process!

A couple of threads on must have mods
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27932-Must-Have-Kit-Mods
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?11993-List-of-essential-modifications

safety mods
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?31296-Safety-Mod%92s

I used these threads to build my list. here it is, I ended up doing almost everything on this list:

Must have
Heat/sound insulation
Mechanical Throttle Kit from Fortes Parts
battery relocation kit
Separate brake reservoirs
power steering
Seats sliders
Russ Thompson turn signal
Fire extinguisher
USB charging ports
Exhaust heat shields
Trunk mod for a little extra space

Nice to have
Different side mirrors
LED lighting
Breeze radiator shroud
Inner door panels
Cup holders

Other changes
Front and rear bumper grommets from finish line
Roll bar grommets

For later
Wilwood brakes

Thank you, this is perfect!

[BeePea]

You didn't tell us where you live, but you should research now what will be required to register in your state. I'm in VA and they require wipers. Much easier to install while building.

I'm in Bellevue, WA

[Kane Rogers]

There's a comprehensive list of tools and equipment at Cobra Dreams (https://cobradreams.com/2019/07/29/items-that-ill-most-likely-need-in-my-garage/) that should be of great help.

[Sdonnel]

Sounds like you've got most of the bases covered. Your ceiling height prevents you from hanging the body. It works, but man, some of those edges can draw blood. If your Father in law has a lot of tools, how about storage space for the body? You won't need it for a while and it would make things a lot less complicated. Just a thought.

Scott

[BeePea]

Sounds like you've got most of the bases covered. Your ceiling height prevents you from hanging the body. It works, but man, some of those edges can draw blood. If your Father in law has a lot of tools, how about storage space for the body? You won't need it for a while and it would make things a lot less complicated. Just a thought.

Scott

Great question actually! He has a massive shop that could easily store it, he's just 1.5 hours away, but it might be worth it. Thanks, I hadn't considered that!

[D Stand]

I'm in Bellevue, WA

I am just up north from you in Bothell.....

[cnutting]

Your must haves may vary depending on the level of creature comforts you want. Here are some basics:
If you are going 3 link, get the lower control arms from Breeze. Seriously, don't even install the kit ones.
Upper, lower radiator mounts and shroud from Breeze
Metco safety loop
Transmission spacers from Forte
Throttle linkage from Forte
Check with Mike Forte for engine/trans combos while you have him on the phone. No slight whatsover with Blueprint, they seem like a first class outfit. I personally like to get multiple quotes from different suppliers.
Cool tubes from Boig
Various detail parts as needed from **********

[BeePea]

I am just up north from you in Bothell.....

I would love to meet up and see your build since you're so close! Socially distant of course.

[Andrew Davis]

BeePea,
sounds like much good advice all around. Just got my MK4 running, a little north of D Stand, in Silver Lake. My build is not show quality (Edward B etc.) but couldn't stop grinning when it started. Couldn't be happier with the challenge and help from the forum. Let me know if I can be of help. Andy

[BeePea]

BeePea,
sounds like much good advice all around. Just got my MK4 running, a little north of D Stand, in Silver Lake. My build is not show quality (Edward B etc.) but couldn't stop grinning when it started. Couldn't be happier with the challenge and help from the forum. Let me know if I can be of help. Andy

Thanks Andy! Careful, I'll take you up on that!

[NiceGuyEddie]

Budget $1,000 for these:

(real) Jack Stand Pads
Drill Bits
Painter's Tape
Sharpie's
Rustoleum
Acetone
Silicone
Stainless Steel Nuts and Bolts (you may want to replace some of the black oxide stuff)
Gas to go to the hardware store for stuff for all of your mods

[D Stand]

BeePea I would love to show you my progress. PM me this your contact info and get in touch.

Dale

[CraigS]

Father-in-law has the engine lift, so I'm covered there, but thank you!

Oh cool. It's free. Also I assume that, since he has it, he must also be a car guy. That will be a lot of fun.

[BeePea]

Budget $1,000 for these:

(real) Jack Stand Pads
Drill Bits
Painter's Tape
Sharpie's
Rustoleum
Acetone
Silicone
Stainless Steel Nuts and Bolts (you may want to replace some of the black oxide stuff)
Gas to go to the hardware store for stuff for all of your mods

Yeah, I have read about the black oxide bolts, I'll be replacing those for sure.

[BeePea]

Oh cool. It's free. Also I assume that, since he has it, he must also be a car guy. That will be a lot of fun.

He is, more on the motorcycle side, rebuilds a new one every two years or so to "sell" (he ends up keeping them for awhile but is only allowed to keep 3 at a time per house rules)

[Avalanche325]

Yeah, I have read about the black oxide bolts, I'll be replacing those for sure.

Don't just go replacing everything with stainless. Stainless steel is not the same thing that magically doesn't rust.
1. Stainless steel fasteners are weaker. Do not use them on anything structural, suspension, etc.
2. Stainless fasteners are prone to galling. Always use anti-seize. Even with that, they will occasionally gall no matter what you do. Don't use them on something that you would not be able to remove a broken fastener on. I won't put stainless into a block or heads.

For jack stands. Only buy the "double locking" type. These have a pin that you put in after you set them to the height that you want. If the ratchet fails (like the HF recent recall) the pin keeps it in place. HF is great for some things, like torque wrenches. But not things that your life depends on.

When you need the 250 ft lbs torque wrench for the front hubs, parts stores have loaners. It took me a couple to find one that had that range.

[BeePea]

Don't just go replacing everything with stainless. Stainless steel is not the same thing that magically doesn't rust.
1. Stainless steel fasteners are weaker. Do not use them on anything structural, suspension, etc.
2. Stainless fasteners are prone to galling. Always use anti-seize. Even with that, they will occasionally gall no matter what you do. Don't use them on something that you would not be able to remove a broken fastener on. I won't put stainless into a block or heads.

For jack stands. Only buy the "double locking" type. These have a pin that you put in after you set them to the height that you want. If the ratchet fails (like the HF recent recall) the pin keeps it in place. HF is great for some things, like torque wrenches. But not things that your life depends on.

When you need the 250 ft lbs torque wrench for the front hubs, parts stores have loaners. It took me a couple to find one that had that range.

Thank you for the clarification on the bolts and the tips for the torque wrench and jack stands! I do want to borrow as much as possible to keep my costs low for things I don't see myself needing in the future for maintenance.

[edwardb]

Agree on the recommendation to not wholesale replace kit supplied hardware with SS. I like SS as much as the next guy (love shiny stuff...) but as already pointed out the usual hardware store variety is typically not as strong as even grade 5 hardware. Plus the galling issue. For those black oxide bolts, hit the heads with a decent quality chassis black paint (I like the stuff from Eastwood) and they'll look a little shinier and not rust.

[narly1]

Check out this method for finishing bolt heads:

https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=1088587124859904

[BeePea]

I was thinking of reducing some upfront costs and wanted to get your all’s opinion on doing so. I was thinking of waiting to purchase:
• Wheels/tires
• Heater
• Windshield Wipers
• Assembled Side Louvers
• Premium Soft Top
Any issues with that? I assume I can buy each of these as a part after the initial order.

Three additional questions:
1. If I order the IRS, do I also order the $1.5k IRS center section, spindles and hubs and that takes care of the Moser 8.8 kits with 3 - 5 points?
2. If I want the Wilwood breaks, do I need to get IRS rear break kit? (I’m concerned I might not get the e-break parts)
3. Finally, thinking of trying to make this a daily driver, so I know I’ll need the heater and the premium soft top, but is there anything else that a daily driver needs (this is why I’m getting the IRS)? Example, is a hydraulic clutch kit better for longevity?

I have also bought the digital manual and are 150 pages down!

[BeePea]

Another question, instead of powder coating panels, is it cheaper and easier (somewhat) to use POR15? Any reason not to use POR15?

[egchewy79]

I had my frame PC'd when I bought my kit. In my limited experience the powder coating is really tough to get off. I've used POR15 on a few pieces and this seems to flake off pretty easily. maybe I didn't prep the surface as good as I should have, but still the PC seems much more durable. I've read that unless you're planning on doing a bunch of frame mods yourself and welding, that it's probably better in the long run to get the frame PC'd.

[BeePea]

I had my frame PC'd when I bought my kit. In my limited experience the powder coating is really tough to get off. I've used POR15 on a few pieces and this seems to flake off pretty easily. maybe I didn't prep the surface as good as I should have, but still the PC seems much more durable. I've read that unless you're planning on doing a bunch of frame mods yourself and welding, that it's probably better in the long run to get the frame PC'd.

Def doing the frame PC from FFR, more worried about the visible panels.

[edwardb]

I was thinking of reducing some upfront costs and wanted to get your all’s opinion on doing so. I was thinking of waiting to purchase:
• Wheels/tires
• Heater
• Windshield Wipers
• Assembled Side Louvers
• Premium Soft Top
Any issues with that? I assume I can buy each of these as a part after the initial order.

Three additional questions:
1. If I order the IRS, do I also order the $1.5k IRS center section, spindles and hubs and that takes care of the Moser 8.8 kits with 3 - 5 points?
2. If I want the Wilwood breaks, do I need to get IRS rear break kit? (I’m concerned I might not get the e-break parts)
3. Finally, thinking of trying to make this a daily driver, so I know I’ll need the heater and the premium soft top, but is there anything else that a daily driver needs (this is why I’m getting the IRS)? Example, is a hydraulic clutch kit better for longevity?

Wait on:
Wheels/tires - sure
Heater - you're going to need it pretty early as you lay out your engine compartment, dash, electrical, etc.
Wipers - you want those when you're ready to put the body on. But similar to the heater, helpful to have around to fit everything together.
Side louvers - I guess. You don't need them until body finishing time. But probably one of the cheapest things on your list.
Top - Sure. That can wait until you're done. Just check the instructions and get the windshield at the right angle for the top.

Questions:
1. If you select IRS you don't need the Moser axle.
2. If you pick the optional Wilwood IRS brakes, they are complete including e-brakes.
3. I don't know that the hydraulic clutch necessarily lasts any longer. I would say they're probably the same in that regard. Hydraulic can have a bit less foot pressure and depending on your engine setup, eliminates issues with routing a cable. Heat is their worst enemy. A properly set up cable system with the right Ford OE style cable (not the one that comes in the kit unfortunately) works pretty well.


Another question, instead of powder coating panels, is it cheaper and easier (somewhat) to use POR15? Any reason not to use POR15?

If you shop around you should be able to find a decent price for powder coat. POR15 is not cheap. Going to be expensive to use on all the panels, although likely cheaper than powder coat. Easier? Not hardly. There are a lot of panels and it's a lot of work prepping and painting. Ask anyone that's done it. It's amazing stuff, but in my experience not the easiest to apply or make look decent. Since the panels are neither rusty to start or will rust in the future, if you do go choose to paint, I'd pick something beside POR15.

[BeePea]

Thanks edwardb, good insights. My current engine setup plan is the blueprint 347 with power steering.

If the cost is close to the same, and the work is considerably more for POR15, I might just go with my plan B, the brushed look with the black PC frame.

[Raddksn]

That Breeze rivet spacing tool is awesome, never seen one before!