Coyote fan won’t turn on

[Peter05]

Hi everyone, hoping to get some help diagnosing my fan woes
I have a 2011 crate coyote and frpp controls pack with a derale electric fan. Recently I noticed the fan didn’t turn on after a drive on a hot day. I checked the inline fuse that I installed just before the fan and it was blown. After replacement fan still didn’t work (fuse didn’t blow )
I checked the 40 amp fuse in the control box and it is good. I checked power at the fuse base and it is good.
I don’t know where to check next. Anyone know where and what I should check next?
Thanks for any help. Peter. ( not sure if this is the right area to post this )

[Al_C]

Peter, Is the coyote controlling the fan? I know on a Gen II that there is a specific lead from the PCM for the fan. I suspect the Gen I had it too. OK, maybe goes without saying, but the fan will spin freely?

[Peter05]

Hi, yes the coyote is controlling the fan. There is a lug where the fan wire attaches to. It does not get hot when I check it. And I forgot to mention, but I ran power direct to the fan and it works, just doesn’t seem to get triggered to turn on. I don’t have a temperature gun, but last time I drove it was a hot day and I am fairly certain the fan should have came on

[Papa]

Fans are typically controlled with a ground trigger through a relay. The output of the control pack for your fan should be completing a ground signal if I'm not mistaken. Here is a simple diagram ... ignore the in-car switch (this is your ignition - keyed +12v):

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128544&d=1589814739

The thermostat switch is your PCM fan control (if Coyote uses negative trigger as I assume). In this type of circuit, the relay is energized when the key is turned on and then triggered when the computer completes the ground signal that closes the relay circuit and allows the relay to send power to the fan(s).

[Peter05]

Thermostat switch would be my cylinder head temp sensor?

[Papa]

Thermostat switch would be my cylinder head temp sensor?

I think you may be better served by reading through this thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?30358-Gen-2-Coyote-Wiring-For-Dummies

My advice above is not Coyote specific and I don't want you to get off track. There are lots of Coyote wiring threads to look at if you just Google (don't use the forum search tool) for Factory Five Forum Coyote fan wiring.

Hope this helps,
Dave

[Al_C]

This all sounds good. If your fan lead is from the coyote PCM, you should be good. Is the fan grounded? The PCM fan lead is only one wire (at least on mine). I'd run the engine until it's up to temperature (based on the temp gauge) and see if it goes on or not. If not, I'd reach out to the Ford help line. IMHO there isn't a lot that go wrong with that circuit as long as the PCM is functioning correctly.

[edwardb]

This is a Gen 1 (2011) Coyote. That control pack and specifically the Power Distribution Module (PDB) were completely re-designed by Ford Performance for the Gen 2 and Gen 3 versions. I personally haven't installed a Gen 1, but just seeing the threads from back then it's different enough that I wouldn't expect to learn too much from the Gen 2 or Gen 3 threads. Someone who's installed a Gen 1 should respond.

It's not clear whether it was working and now stopped. Or never worked. That's an important difference.

It's true the Coyote (all versions) don't have an actual water temp sensor. They use the Cylinder Head Temp (CHT) sensor and infer the water temp from that. But it's all through logic in the PCM. So no direct connection there. I suppose it's possible your CHT failed. If so, you should have trouble codes. Have you scanned the ODB2 port for trouble codes?

[Peter05]

Thank you everyone for the feedback so far
The fan did work recently, no idea when it quit
I will try get it scanned soon

[frd2]

gen one install - look at the pdb itself when the engine is hot. There is a light visible when it calls for the fan to operate. I think there is a fuse inside the pdb also - may need to see if it has blown if the light never comes on. Use your tuner to watch the inferred engine temp (vs watching a gauge) as mine are off by a few degrees. (you have gotten a custom tune completed for it already, correct.....?)

Depending on whether the light comes on, then get out the volt meter and start checking for where you lose power going to the fan. Check the connection at the relay / fuse panel where you tied the ford fan wire into the ron francis fan wire

[Peter05]

Okay, problem solved. I think the fuse cracked, but it didn’t blow. The 40 amp pdb fuse looks good but I tested it and it’s faulty. Hairline crack in the metal. All good now, just my stupidity. Last poster commented on a tune, I don’t have one. Any recommendations? Thanks again everyone