Two post car lift

[tbl100]

I'm thinking of purchasing a 2 post car lift but like many I have a low ceiling height.

I'm considering the following two:

BendPak GP-7LCS I can make this fit but its a permanent installation. https://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/two-post-lifts/

MaxJax portable 2 post lift. It's somewhat portable which is nice. https://www.maxjax.com/

Anybody out there using either of these? How stable are they? Any safety issues? Clearance issues with Roadster sitting at 4.5" ground clearance? Any feedback is greatly appreciated.

Thank you,
Tim

[Straversi]

A neighbor has the MaxJax portable. He has it set up in his garage for maintenance work on his many cars. He has a second location outside on a pad, where he sets it up to do messy work like cleaning his off-road toys or removing radiators, etc. He has a cobra replica (not a FFR) and he’s had it up there. Pretty nice set up.
-Steve

[tbl100]

A neighbor has the MaxJax portable. He has it set up in his garage for maintenance work on his many cars. He has a second location outside on a pad, where he sets it up to do messy work like cleaning his off-road toys or removing radiators, etc. He has a cobra replica (not a FFR) and he’s had it up there. Pretty nice set up.
-Steve

Thank you. Yes multiple locations is a big plus.

[progmgr1]

I am building a '33 Hot Rod on a Max Jax lift in my low ceiling garage, and I am very pleased with this product. I wish it lifted a few inches higher, but that is a minor problem. The lift is bolted to the floor, and drilling the holes for the lag bolts in my 35+ year cured slab was a big challenge (went through 3 HF hammer drills and 2 masonry bit sets drilling 10 holes). The nice thing is, when the '33 is finished I can remove the bolts and wheel the towers away on the built-in casters. The other nice thing is that it runs on 120VAC 30A, which I was able to pull from an outlet in the garage for an electric clothes dryer - so no electrician needed for installation. Finally, I found the lift on sale at Costco, and Summit priced matched and got me an extra promotional item as well. A bonus was that the US distributor was in Moorpark, CA - a 15 minute drive from my house. I rented a lift-gate truck and brought it home the same day. Keith HR #894

[wareaglescott]

I have the GP 7LCS in my basement garage with a 9' ceiling.
Install was challenging because the top piece is very heavy and it sits so close to the ceiling you can't really lift it from above. You have to get under and push it up. I self installed but if I were doing it again may be willing to pay for it solely because of that. Luckily for me I was mentoring a college football player at the time and he brought a couple of his offensive line buddies over!

Very pleased with it for the space available. I put the Cobra on one of my four posts because in order to get the lifting arms for the 2 post under the pipes you have to first get the car off the ground a couple inches. I jack up each corner individually and set it on some wood blocks first when I need to use it. If I were going to use it regularly for the Cobra I would buy 4 small race ramps and pull up on those and then it would be easy to lift it. When you have that lift raised all the way it is high enough to sit on a rolling stool and roll under the car. I much prefer that to laying on a creeper.

Safety and stability is very good. The bases are bolted in very well on each side. Anytime I put a new car on a 2 post I lift the tires about an inch of the ground and try as hard as I can to see if I can rock it off from the front or rear before going higher. Once you find the right spot for the particular vehicle it is no problem. The Cobra is very easy to lift with the large frame rails.

[Ponymedic]

I have the Maxjax for my MKIV. Gotta say I love it. What others have said it doesn't get very high but after watching a review on you tube I bought a creeper with a back that lifts. Puts me in a great position and is very comfortable

[edwardb]

I had the original model of the MaxJax at my previous house that had the usual height garage ceilings. Back when it was sold by Danmar. Pictured below. I was happy with it and a huge upgrade over building on jackstands or whatever. Granted you had to use a rolling seat to work underneath. But still better than being on your back. The advantage of a lift isn't only that you can get underneath more easily though. It's that throughout the build you can position the car at the most comfortable working height. No extended leaning over doing wiring, brake lines, whatever. For my somewhat sensitive back, that was a big improvement. My current garage has a much higher ceiling, so I sold the MaxJax and have a full height Bendpak. All the same advantages just goes higher obviously. But still possible to crack you head the on the arms or low hanging parts of the chassis. Ask me how I know.

A properly designed and installed 2-post is completely stable. No issues there. Especially with the relatively light weight of the Roadster. One of my complaints with the MaxJax was the very rudimentary stops it had and only a couple positions. This has been upgraded in the latest version, along with other improvements Bendpak cites. Looks nice. The other complaint was with the two separate towers, each with their own hydraulic cylinder, the two would get out of level sometimes. Reading reviews, that was a common observation. There's no connection between the two sides that keeps them exactly synchronized. Like on the non-portable models. It's not a big deal, and easy enough to lower the sides against a stop and they get aligned again. Just something to be aware of. I did like that I could unbolt and move the towers when not in use. I typically never moved the one against the wall. But the one in the center of the garage I moved.

As far as height with the Roadster chassis, you're going to be challenged with any 2-post arms. My current lift has the low profile arms and pads, and I still have to jack the car just slightly to get the arms underneath. Some guys use boards as a ramp. Needs to go up an inch or two to get the arms under comfortably. Not a big deal. Just don't expect in my experience you can drive up and swing the arms under. These cars are just too low.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062014/.highres/IMG_2642_zpscccf6821.jpg (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/a/c49dc6e1-d0ab-436e-9bb6-5c29302edc5f/p/6540e267-c056-49af-8527-4e5d2619626d)

[RoadRacer]

Thanks for this thread.. but I wish I’d asked the same question a month ago! I just bought the quick jack 5000 because I assumed there’s no way a post lift would fit in my normal suburban garage with garage door. :)

[tbl100]

I am building a '33 Hot Rod on a Max Jax lift in my low ceiling garage, and I am very pleased with this product. I wish it lifted a few inches higher, but that is a minor problem. The lift is bolted to the floor, and drilling the holes for the lag bolts in my 35+ year cured slab was a big challenge (went through 3 HF hammer drills and 2 masonry bit sets drilling 10 holes). The nice thing is, when the '33 is finished I can remove the bolts and wheel the towers away on the built-in casters. The other nice thing is that it runs on 120VAC 30A, which I was able to pull from an outlet in the garage for an electric clothes dryer - so no electrician needed for installation. Finally, I found the lift on sale at Costco, and Summit priced matched and got me an extra promotional item as well. A bonus was that the US distributor was in Moorpark, CA - a 15 minute drive from my house. I rented a lift-gate truck and brought it home the same day. Keith HR #894

Thank you for the tool info. Gives me something to look out for no matter what lift I go with and thanks for the vendor tips. Saving a few bucks is always a good thing. Thanks again.

[tbl100]

I have the GP 7LCS in my basement garage with a 9' ceiling.
Install was challenging because the top piece is very heavy and it sits so close to the ceiling you can't really lift it from above. You have to get under and push it up. I self installed but if I were doing it again may be willing to pay for it solely because of that. Luckily for me I was mentoring a college football player at the time and he brought a couple of his offensive line buddies over!

Very pleased with it for the space available. I put the Cobra on one of my four posts because in order to get the lifting arms for the 2 post under the pipes you have to first get the car off the ground a couple inches. I jack up each corner individually and set it on some wood blocks first when I need to use it. If I were going to use it regularly for the Cobra I would buy 4 small race ramps and pull up on those and then it would be easy to lift it. When you have that lift raised all the way it is high enough to sit on a rolling stool and roll under the car. I much prefer that to laying on a creeper.

Safety and stability is very good. The bases are bolted in very well on each side. Anytime I put a new car on a 2 post I lift the tires about an inch of the ground and try as hard as I can to see if I can rock it off from the front or rear before going higher. Once you find the right spot for the particular vehicle it is no problem. The Cobra is very easy to lift with the large frame rails.

Thank you for the reply. I'd be installing it myself so the info on weight is good to know. I'd have my son and a few of his buds come by and help.

[tbl100]

I had the original model of the MaxJax at my previous house that had the usual height garage ceilings. Back when it was sold by Danmar. Pictured below. I was happy with it and a huge upgrade over building on jackstands or whatever. Granted you had to use a rolling seat to work underneath. But still better than being on your back. The advantage of a lift isn't only that you can get underneath more easily though. It's that throughout the build you can position the car at the most comfortable working height. No extended leaning over doing wiring, brake lines, whatever. For my somewhat sensitive back, that was a big improvement. My current garage has a much higher ceiling, so I sold the MaxJax and have a full height Bendpak. All the same advantages just goes higher obviously. But still possible to crack you head the on the arms or low hanging parts of the chassis. Ask me how I know.

A properly designed and installed 2-post is completely stable. No issues there. Especially with the relatively light weight of the Roadster. One of my complaints with the MaxJax was the very rudimentary stops it had and only a couple positions. This has been upgraded in the latest version, along with other improvements Bendpak cites. Looks nice. The other complaint was with the two separate towers, each with their own hydraulic cylinder, the two would get out of level sometimes. Reading reviews, that was a common observation. There's no connection between the two sides that keeps them exactly synchronized. Like on the non-portable models. It's not a big deal, and easy enough to lower the sides against a stop and they get aligned again. Just something to be aware of. I did like that I could unbolt and move the towers when not in use. I typically never moved the one against the wall. But the one in the center of the garage I moved.

As far as height with the Roadster chassis, you're going to be challenged with any 2-post arms. My current lift has the low profile arms and pads, and I still have to jack the car just slightly to get the arms underneath. Some guys use boards as a ramp. Needs to go up an inch or two to get the arms under comfortably. Not a big deal. Just don't expect in my experience you can drive up and swing the arms under. These cars are just too low.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2007062014/.highres/IMG_2642_zpscccf6821.jpg (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/a/c49dc6e1-d0ab-436e-9bb6-5c29302edc5f/p/6540e267-c056-49af-8527-4e5d2619626d)

Thanks for the reply. I did read up on the improvements that BendPak has made. I was a bit concerned about the independent cylinders getting out of sync but as you point out lowering to a lock position fixes that. So one question on that subject. Do the cylinders become equal again after they have been lowered all the way to the ground or do you have to do something to sync them up again? Thank you.

[JohnK]

I know you're asking about 2 post lifts, but if you're concerned about ceiling height and/or concerned about bolting a 2-post lift down then you might want to consider a 4 post lift as an alternative. My garage height is only 8' and I didn't know how thick my slab was (and didn't feel like busting out sections of my garage floor to re-pour them thick enough to ensure a 2 post lift was safe) so I opted for a 4 post lift. I went with the DirectLift Pro Park 8S (https://directlift.com/product/pro-park-8s/) but I've seen the same (or identical-looking) lift sold under a variety of brand names. I like it because it doesn't need to be bolted down, I can move it around with casters that came with it, and I can have the car either sitting on its wheels or up off all 4 wheels, depending on what I'm doing. I don't have a tall enough ceiling to be able to park one car on top of another, but it's still very nice to be able to get under the car with a rolling stool or have the car at a comfortable working height.

[edwardb]

Thanks for the reply. I did read up on the improvements that BendPak has made. I was a bit concerned about the independent cylinders getting out of sync but as you point out lowering to a lock position fixes that. So one question on that subject. Do the cylinders become equal again after they have been lowered all the way to the ground or do you have to do something to sync them up again? Thank you.

Nope. The design is dependent on a splitter at the pump and two independent cylinders that should move the same with equal pressure. There's no feedback that they're out of sync other than you seeing it during operation. Running it all the way up, down against a stop, or all the way to the bottom puts them back on the same level. I've read where guys have replaced defective cylinders to improve the situation. But even with normal tolerances there's likely to be some difference after so many times up and down. Really, assuming nothing is defective, it's not a big deal. Just something you get used to and a design trade-off to have two towers that aren't connected but portable instead. My full size Bendpak never gets out of sync. Which is nice. But it has a bridge over the top and a somewhat complex set of cables between the two sides to keep it that way. Hardly portable.

[progmgr1]

One other point is that I've got a small hydraulic leak where I don't have easy access, so periodically (~1 / year) I have to bleed the air out of the cylinders. Not a big deal and not much air, standard procedure shown in the Max Jax manual. Bleeding the cylinders also seems to help with the unbalanced lifting issue. Keith

[edwardb]

Bleeding the cylinders also seems to help with the unbalanced lifting issue. Keith

Agreed. Simple process with a small check valve on the top of each cylinder. I mainly noticed it after plugging the hoses back onto the lift towers. Apparently that let a little air into the system.

[tbl100]

Nope. The design is dependent on a splitter at the pump and two independent cylinders that should move the same with equal pressure. There's no feedback that they're out of sync other than you seeing it during operation. Running it all the way up, down against a stop, or all the way to the bottom puts them back on the same level. I've read where guys have replaced defective cylinders to improve the situation. But even with normal tolerances there's likely to be some difference after so many times up and down. Really, assuming nothing is defective, it's not a big deal. Just something you get used to and a design trade-off to have two towers that aren't connected but portable instead. My full size Bendpak never gets out of sync. Which is nice. But it has a bridge over the top and a somewhat complex set of cables between the two sides to keep it that way. Hardly portable.

ok, thank you.

[tbl100]

One other point is that I've got a small hydraulic leak where I don't have easy access, so periodically (~1 / year) I have to bleed the air out of the cylinders. Not a big deal and not much air, standard procedure shown in the Max Jax manual. Bleeding the cylinders also seems to help with the unbalanced lifting issue. Keith

Ah, good to know. Thank you.

[tbl100]

I know you're asking about 2 post lifts, but if you're concerned about ceiling height and/or concerned about bolting a 2-post lift down then you might want to consider a 4 post lift as an alternative. My garage height is only 8' and I didn't know how thick my slab was (and didn't feel like busting out sections of my garage floor to re-pour them thick enough to ensure a 2 post lift was safe) so I opted for a 4 post lift. I went with the DirectLift Pro Park 8S (https://directlift.com/product/pro-park-8s/) but I've seen the same (or identical-looking) lift sold under a variety of brand names. I like it because it doesn't need to be bolted down, I can move it around with casters that came with it, and I can have the car either sitting on its wheels or up off all 4 wheels, depending on what I'm doing. I don't have a tall enough ceiling to be able to park one car on top of another, but it's still very nice to be able to get under the car with a rolling stool or have the car at a comfortable working height.

Yes, thank you. I've looked at 4 post lifts as well. Garage door is the biggest issue there. Maybe the one you specify the tops are low enough. I'll check it out. How do you manage to get up off all 4 wheels? Thank you.

[dpariso]

wish I had the $$$ for a lift. I decided to build ramps. Give me 12" off the ground. I have a low profile creeper and it works well.
133731133732133733133734

[JohnK]

Yes, thank you. I've looked at 4 post lifts as well. Garage door is the biggest issue there. Maybe the one you specify the tops are low enough. I'll check it out. How do you manage to get up off all 4 wheels? Thank you.

To get the car off of all 4 wheels you need the jack tray (comes with the lift) along with the optional jack. I have the rear up on jack stands in the jack tray:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=133740&d=1597681069

... and the front rests on the jack. The jack has positive locks so it's safe to work under when lifted. It has arms that slide out on either side with lifting pads. Unfortunately, even at its narrowest setting it's too wide to get under the 4" tubes, so I just cut down an old 4x6 and set it across the jack, and lift the front under the transverse 4" tube. It's extremely stable this way.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=133739&d=1597681059

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=133737&d=1597681041

As far as ceiling height and garage doors, I feel your pain. Luckily, I was in the middle of a home remodel when I decided I wanted a lift, and I was able to install tight-clearance garage door tracks to get the doors as tight to the ceiling as possible, along with Liftmaster 8500 wall-mount garage door openers so I don't have an opener hanging down off the ceiling in the middle of the bay. It was still tight but everything fits perfectly. My ceiling is 8' 5". The garage door tracks slope down across their length, but at the point where the lift posts are the bottom of the tracks are 7' 4" and the tops of the lift posts are 7' 1.5". Being able to move the whole lift around on casters was extremely helpful in nailing down the final position once it was all assembled. Here are a couple of shots that show how the lift fits in the bay relative to the garage door tracks, and also shows the wall-mount door openers. Hopefully this helps.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=133738&d=1597681050

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=133736&d=1597681034

[tbl100]

To get the car off of all 4 wheels you need the jack tray (comes with the lift) along with the optional jack. I have the rear up on jack stands in the jack tray:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=133740&d=1597681069

... and the front rests on the jack. The jack has positive locks so it's safe to work under when lifted. It has arms that slide out on either side with lifting pads. Unfortunately, even at its narrowest setting it's too wide to get under the 4" tubes, so I just cut down an old 4x6 and set it across the jack, and lift the front under the transverse 4" tube. It's extremely stable this way.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=133739&d=1597681059

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=133737&d=1597681041

As far as ceiling height and garage doors, I feel your pain. Luckily, I was in the middle of a home remodel when I decided I wanted a lift, and I was able to install tight-clearance garage door tracks to get the doors as tight to the ceiling as possible, along with Liftmaster 8500 wall-mount garage door openers so I don't have an opener hanging down off the ceiling in the middle of the bay. It was still tight but everything fits perfectly. My ceiling is 8' 5". The garage door tracks slope down across their length, but at the point where the lift posts are the bottom of the tracks are 7' 4" and the tops of the lift posts are 7' 1.5". Being able to move the whole lift around on casters was extremely helpful in nailing down the final position once it was all assembled. Here are a couple of shots that show how the lift fits in the bay relative to the garage door tracks, and also shows the wall-mount door openers. Hopefully this helps.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=133738&d=1597681050

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=133736&d=1597681034

Very nice. Thank you for sharing. This is very helpful.

[tbl100]

wish I had the $$$ for a lift. I decided to build ramps. Give me 12" off the ground. I have a low profile creeper and it works well.
133731133732133733133734

I had a similar idea in the beginning after seeing the Kwik-Lift. https://www.kwik-lift.com/ You solution looks easy to move around and store out of the way. Thank you for sharing.

[AtlantaCobra]

133743133744

I went with the four post lift. Had the garage door tracks raised and a side mounted door opener. Works great and can park my Audi underneath.

[tbl100]

133743133744

I went with the four post lift. Had the garage door tracks raised and a side mounted door opener. Works great and can park my Audi underneath.

Nice. I wish I had your ceiling height. Thank you.

[John Dol]

I think its important to know the slab thickness of the garage floor. Here's a page from Bendpak with their recommendations.

https://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/concrete-floor-requirements/

Buy or rent an SDS hammer drill. Much easier to get your bolt holes drilled.

HTH,

John

[RobCYoung]

I have a Lift King XL from Calgary, Alberta, Canada. Excellent 4 post moveable lift. Two post lifts for me are not versatile enough. Watched a video on YouTube of a car fall off a two post lift, it sold me on the 4 post. I leave the Roadster on the lift all the time. Drop it down & drive on & off. No fiddling with lift pad positioning or slipping on the round tubing. I have two jack trays for getting the car off the wheels. The XL has 78" under the platforms at full height. Best of all is that you can attach the column castor brackets, lift the whole thing up and reposition it in your garage. Great.
LiftKing is also very good to deal with. Had some damage to drip trays during shipping & they were replaced immediately.
/Rob