edwardb
08-15-2020, 05:12 PM
It’s been a down year for driving like everyone knows. But after being parked for most of three months, I’ve gotten to drive the Coupe more and reached the 1,000 mile mark. So here’s a report.
Overall impression remains very positive. While it’s similar to our Roadster (same suspension, brakes, shocks, power steering, etc.) the longer wheelbase and even stiffer frame improves the ride a bit I think. It just feels and drives like a much bigger car. Love the T-56. Crisp shifts and really like having two overdrive ratios. I haven’t pushed it too hard, but I’m liking the Torsen diff. I don’t feel the back end wiggling around nearly as much when the tires spin. You can hear it a bit, but no big deal. The Gen 3 Coyote is running fine. Zero codes since the tune was completed by Lund Racing. Starts and just goes. Hasn’t used any oil. There was about a tablespoon in the JLT oil separator. So far so good with the Tilton hydraulic release bearing. Effort is light and smooth. Since it’s self-adjusting, clutch pedal release point hasn’t moved. Have my entry and exit techniques pretty well practiced so don’t pay much attention to that any more. The quick release steering wheel should be mandatory on these builds. Helps immensely. Especially for getting out. Like the Corbeau seats. Really like the Schroth Racing Profi II ASM harnesses. My wife especially likes the cam locks on the harnesses over the Simpson latches.
No rattles or shakes anywhere. No discernible air leaks into the cockpit or heat through the footboxes or whatever. My work to seal things up and insulate seemed to have paid off. Have gone over it a couple times and nothing has come loose. No leaks or puddles other than the A/C drain. Which means it’s doing its thing. Speaking of the A/C, satisfied with how it works. It’s been a warm summer by Michigan standards, and it keeps the cockpit comfortable. At some point I may get the hatch glass tinted. But so far hasn’t seemed necessary. For warmer climates that’s probably a higher priority. The design of the fuel filler hose has a right angle not far inside the opening. Have to be careful to not pump gas too fast or it splashes back a bit. Also doesn’t play nice with the new vapor recovery nozzles our local Costco (my usual go-to gas station) installed since you can’t push the nozzle in very far. Last time I was there they recommended I use a specific pump without it intended for “older” vehicles.
Most importantly, my wife really enjoys the Coupe and appreciates being out of the wind and traffic noise. Likes the seats better. Likes the ride better. With both the Roadster and Coupe in the garage this summer, we found ourselves gravitating to the Coupe most of the time. Partly because it’s new I know. But we are just liking it a lot. We’re not ready to drive it cross country yet. But it’s more comfortable especially for longer cruises.
Have been to probably a dozen or so cars and coffees. Plus one judged car show. It attracts a ton of attention. People love it, although I’m really shocked how many don’t know what it is. I’ve been telling the Coupe story a lot. Factory Five is widely recognized and usually with very positive comments or impressions.
Couple of specific follow-up points. Much discussion in my build thread about the location that I chose for the Moroso coolant expansion tank. Due to space, how I chose to lay things out, plus the Gen 3 Coupe chassis, it’s mounted lower than in a Mustang or typically when installed in a Roadster. In the range of 1-2 inches lower. Short story. It works fine. Engine cooling is controlled and relatively cool as is usually the case with the Coyote. Most of the time it’s 190-195 F. Every once in a while when it’s warm and stop and go, goes over 200 slightly but drops right back down when moving. All good. Only slight downside is initial fill (and future flush-refills) have to be through the heater hose connection. But that’s really minor. Coolant level checks and routine maintenance adds are through the cap as normal.
Another discussion in the build thread was about the Factory Five A/C and heat system. The combination A/C evaporator/heater core is at the top of the passenger side footbox and draws in cabin air only. Basically, it’s on recirculation mode all the time. Some were concerned I’d have window fogging among other things. Hasn’t been the case. Works fine. While my car is relatively sealed up (best I could…) it’s still not DD airtight. So I think there’s enough outside air that it’s just not a problem.
Really the only negative is one I’ve talked about several times. It’s louder than I expected. We wear our ear plugs and it’s not an issue. Go into one of these expecting that and you won’t be surprised. There are pipes that are probably quieter than mine. But love my dual-pipe Gas-N’s and don’t regret going that direction at all. I’ve also talked several times about adding major insulation between the chassis and the body where the side pipes are. Still might try something. But not easy with the body on and it’s not coming off. For new builds, really recommend doing something there. Has to help. On the trivial side, the built-in LED indicators (turn signals, high beam) in the Speedhut speedo while nice aren’t very bright. Kinda wimpy when you get right down to it. With the top and always being in the shade, they’re marginally acceptable. For an open top car, e.g. a Roadster, I’d still add separate LED’s on the dash. Also, I’m still getting used to just reading the gauges in general. They’re not quite as easy to read or placed as well as the Roadster competition layout I used.
Changes/fixes: We really missed having a clock. I know everyone complains about the Speedhut clock used in the Roadster. But we’ve never had any trouble with them and miss having one. I know you can use your phone or wrist watch. But I like being able to scan the clock along with the other gauges. After doing some on-line shopping, bought a stick-on clock that’s marketed to the motorcycle crowd. Harley’s, etc. It’s basically a quartz analog watch movement (Seiko) pressed into a black billet aluminum mount. It’s stuck on the dash with double sided 3M foam tape. Looks like it belongs and I’m happy with it. And it doesn’t light. So almost like the Speedhut version. :rolleyes:
Another thing, and this also is pretty trivial, I wired an LED indicator light next to the water temp gauge that goes on when the cooling fan is commanded. In this case, can be commanded by either the Coyote PCM or the A/C trinary switch. What I’ve found is the fan free wheels and reverse feeds the LED. I believe it’s worse with the Coupe and the cooling tunnel that forces air through the radiator maybe even more aggressively. Only glows dimly, but still plainly lights pretty much whenever the car is moving. I’d prefer it only lights when the fan is actually commanded. I’m going to install a diode in the line at the fan to prevent the backfeeding. In hindsight, I could have tapped the LED in a different location. Or added another relay. Or left it out altogether. But with the wiring done and most of it buried, going to keep it simple. I’ve got a 40 amp power rectifier diode on the way and will thoroughly test it before committing to the installation.
Finally, I mentioned in one of my early driving impressions that maybe I needed to check the alignment because I didn’t feel like it centered quite as well as I liked. Or the Roadster for that matter. Upon further review, determined the steering was sticking just slightly. Pulled the wheel and re-did the alignment through the plastic bushing that Russ has in his turn signal assembly. Plus added a coat of silicone lubricant. Problem solved. It was subtle but now all good.
Here are a few pictures. This is the clock I described. Small, but I like it.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=133640&d=1597527973
Odometer proof. Was in traffic when it actually turned 1,000. Close enough. The red LED is the Coyote MIL. Glows just a bit all the time. Gen 2 in the Roadster does the same thing. Talked about a bit in the forums. Doesn't look quite this bright in real life. Obviously very bright when it's actually indicating. I consider it my "Coyote is alive" light.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=133639&d=1597527964
Today was the famous Detroit Woodward Dream Cruise. Or should I say the cancelled Dream Cruise? There were no sponsored or civic events. But didn’t prevent lots of us from cruising up and down Woodward. Plus, still quite a few spectators. I met up with my buddies Greg (Challenge Roadster) and Tim (33 Hot Rod) and we cruised together for a couple hours. That’s us in the background. Greg in the center. Tim on the right. Good times. Hopefully next year will be more back to normal.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=133641&d=1597527982
That’s it for now. Several events coming up in September. But the season (what there was of it) is winding down quickly. With the Roadster now sold they’ll all be attended with the Coupe.
Overall impression remains very positive. While it’s similar to our Roadster (same suspension, brakes, shocks, power steering, etc.) the longer wheelbase and even stiffer frame improves the ride a bit I think. It just feels and drives like a much bigger car. Love the T-56. Crisp shifts and really like having two overdrive ratios. I haven’t pushed it too hard, but I’m liking the Torsen diff. I don’t feel the back end wiggling around nearly as much when the tires spin. You can hear it a bit, but no big deal. The Gen 3 Coyote is running fine. Zero codes since the tune was completed by Lund Racing. Starts and just goes. Hasn’t used any oil. There was about a tablespoon in the JLT oil separator. So far so good with the Tilton hydraulic release bearing. Effort is light and smooth. Since it’s self-adjusting, clutch pedal release point hasn’t moved. Have my entry and exit techniques pretty well practiced so don’t pay much attention to that any more. The quick release steering wheel should be mandatory on these builds. Helps immensely. Especially for getting out. Like the Corbeau seats. Really like the Schroth Racing Profi II ASM harnesses. My wife especially likes the cam locks on the harnesses over the Simpson latches.
No rattles or shakes anywhere. No discernible air leaks into the cockpit or heat through the footboxes or whatever. My work to seal things up and insulate seemed to have paid off. Have gone over it a couple times and nothing has come loose. No leaks or puddles other than the A/C drain. Which means it’s doing its thing. Speaking of the A/C, satisfied with how it works. It’s been a warm summer by Michigan standards, and it keeps the cockpit comfortable. At some point I may get the hatch glass tinted. But so far hasn’t seemed necessary. For warmer climates that’s probably a higher priority. The design of the fuel filler hose has a right angle not far inside the opening. Have to be careful to not pump gas too fast or it splashes back a bit. Also doesn’t play nice with the new vapor recovery nozzles our local Costco (my usual go-to gas station) installed since you can’t push the nozzle in very far. Last time I was there they recommended I use a specific pump without it intended for “older” vehicles.
Most importantly, my wife really enjoys the Coupe and appreciates being out of the wind and traffic noise. Likes the seats better. Likes the ride better. With both the Roadster and Coupe in the garage this summer, we found ourselves gravitating to the Coupe most of the time. Partly because it’s new I know. But we are just liking it a lot. We’re not ready to drive it cross country yet. But it’s more comfortable especially for longer cruises.
Have been to probably a dozen or so cars and coffees. Plus one judged car show. It attracts a ton of attention. People love it, although I’m really shocked how many don’t know what it is. I’ve been telling the Coupe story a lot. Factory Five is widely recognized and usually with very positive comments or impressions.
Couple of specific follow-up points. Much discussion in my build thread about the location that I chose for the Moroso coolant expansion tank. Due to space, how I chose to lay things out, plus the Gen 3 Coupe chassis, it’s mounted lower than in a Mustang or typically when installed in a Roadster. In the range of 1-2 inches lower. Short story. It works fine. Engine cooling is controlled and relatively cool as is usually the case with the Coyote. Most of the time it’s 190-195 F. Every once in a while when it’s warm and stop and go, goes over 200 slightly but drops right back down when moving. All good. Only slight downside is initial fill (and future flush-refills) have to be through the heater hose connection. But that’s really minor. Coolant level checks and routine maintenance adds are through the cap as normal.
Another discussion in the build thread was about the Factory Five A/C and heat system. The combination A/C evaporator/heater core is at the top of the passenger side footbox and draws in cabin air only. Basically, it’s on recirculation mode all the time. Some were concerned I’d have window fogging among other things. Hasn’t been the case. Works fine. While my car is relatively sealed up (best I could…) it’s still not DD airtight. So I think there’s enough outside air that it’s just not a problem.
Really the only negative is one I’ve talked about several times. It’s louder than I expected. We wear our ear plugs and it’s not an issue. Go into one of these expecting that and you won’t be surprised. There are pipes that are probably quieter than mine. But love my dual-pipe Gas-N’s and don’t regret going that direction at all. I’ve also talked several times about adding major insulation between the chassis and the body where the side pipes are. Still might try something. But not easy with the body on and it’s not coming off. For new builds, really recommend doing something there. Has to help. On the trivial side, the built-in LED indicators (turn signals, high beam) in the Speedhut speedo while nice aren’t very bright. Kinda wimpy when you get right down to it. With the top and always being in the shade, they’re marginally acceptable. For an open top car, e.g. a Roadster, I’d still add separate LED’s on the dash. Also, I’m still getting used to just reading the gauges in general. They’re not quite as easy to read or placed as well as the Roadster competition layout I used.
Changes/fixes: We really missed having a clock. I know everyone complains about the Speedhut clock used in the Roadster. But we’ve never had any trouble with them and miss having one. I know you can use your phone or wrist watch. But I like being able to scan the clock along with the other gauges. After doing some on-line shopping, bought a stick-on clock that’s marketed to the motorcycle crowd. Harley’s, etc. It’s basically a quartz analog watch movement (Seiko) pressed into a black billet aluminum mount. It’s stuck on the dash with double sided 3M foam tape. Looks like it belongs and I’m happy with it. And it doesn’t light. So almost like the Speedhut version. :rolleyes:
Another thing, and this also is pretty trivial, I wired an LED indicator light next to the water temp gauge that goes on when the cooling fan is commanded. In this case, can be commanded by either the Coyote PCM or the A/C trinary switch. What I’ve found is the fan free wheels and reverse feeds the LED. I believe it’s worse with the Coupe and the cooling tunnel that forces air through the radiator maybe even more aggressively. Only glows dimly, but still plainly lights pretty much whenever the car is moving. I’d prefer it only lights when the fan is actually commanded. I’m going to install a diode in the line at the fan to prevent the backfeeding. In hindsight, I could have tapped the LED in a different location. Or added another relay. Or left it out altogether. But with the wiring done and most of it buried, going to keep it simple. I’ve got a 40 amp power rectifier diode on the way and will thoroughly test it before committing to the installation.
Finally, I mentioned in one of my early driving impressions that maybe I needed to check the alignment because I didn’t feel like it centered quite as well as I liked. Or the Roadster for that matter. Upon further review, determined the steering was sticking just slightly. Pulled the wheel and re-did the alignment through the plastic bushing that Russ has in his turn signal assembly. Plus added a coat of silicone lubricant. Problem solved. It was subtle but now all good.
Here are a few pictures. This is the clock I described. Small, but I like it.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=133640&d=1597527973
Odometer proof. Was in traffic when it actually turned 1,000. Close enough. The red LED is the Coyote MIL. Glows just a bit all the time. Gen 2 in the Roadster does the same thing. Talked about a bit in the forums. Doesn't look quite this bright in real life. Obviously very bright when it's actually indicating. I consider it my "Coyote is alive" light.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=133639&d=1597527964
Today was the famous Detroit Woodward Dream Cruise. Or should I say the cancelled Dream Cruise? There were no sponsored or civic events. But didn’t prevent lots of us from cruising up and down Woodward. Plus, still quite a few spectators. I met up with my buddies Greg (Challenge Roadster) and Tim (33 Hot Rod) and we cruised together for a couple hours. That’s us in the background. Greg in the center. Tim on the right. Good times. Hopefully next year will be more back to normal.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=133641&d=1597527982
That’s it for now. Several events coming up in September. But the season (what there was of it) is winding down quickly. With the Roadster now sold they’ll all be attended with the Coupe.