View Full Version : SBF oil pan rear bolts
egchewy79
08-07-2020, 10:46 PM
replacing my oil pump and dropped the pan today. How are others getting to the two larger 1/2"bolts by the rear main seal? I have a Kevko rear sump racing pan and there's little room to get anything in there. Should I grind down a combo wrench?
FWIW, I put the pan on while the engine was on a stand and got to the bolts by using a small combo wrench like a screwdriver. Open end was on the bolt heads held parallel to the axis of the bolt while a screwdriver was placed through the closed end to generate leverage. Installation will likely prove to be more challenging, esp with a gasket there.
Briansshop
08-08-2020, 08:17 AM
I've had good luck getting to the rear bolts with a 1/4" drive socket,universal,and a long extension.
Have you thought about studs instead of bolts? They're a pain at old gasket removal - scrapping - but make up for it at assy time. Great at holding the gasket/pan in place.
Jeff Kleiner
08-08-2020, 08:35 AM
Brian just gave you my suggestion; 1/4" drive universal socket and long extension. His stud idea is a good one even if only for the larger ones at the rear.
Jeff
egchewy79
08-08-2020, 08:46 AM
Great idea guys. Didn't think of studs. Unfortunately Jeff, they only sell a full kit unless I wanted to make my own studs with all thread. I was thinking of the 1/4"socket extension but need to buy an extension first.
rich grsc
08-08-2020, 08:49 AM
Almost all good hardware stores carry studs, or McMaster Carr.
These fasteners are generally not tightened that tight so I use 1/4" drive sockets in these kind of tight places.
If you use studs, look for 12-point flanged nuts to go with them. That will make a smaller size nut to access. If no local source, look at McMaster-Carr.
egchewy79
08-08-2020, 09:11 AM
Another related question. Am I fine reusing my oil pan gasket? It's a steel core one piece rubber gasket. I'm planning on cleaning off the RTV I had placed in the corners around the curved parts of the pan.
If you have the silicone rubber one-piece gasket with steel torque limiters and a steel internal support -- yes, these are reusable. The only manufacturer that will tell you that is Milodon but I've reused other brands too. In my experience, these type gaskets are hit & miss as far as sealing when new or reused. I have never reused one that's been installed more than about two years so the longer it's been in service the less confidence I'd have reusing one. I also use this type for valve cover gaskets (I run solid lifters so have to adjust valves after every race).
I only use these style pan gaskets on engines I know I'm going to be opening up frequently for inspection. I've actually had better luck with the OEM style three-piece pan gaskets and generous amounts of Ultra Black sealer. But the one-piece rubber gaskets are so much easier to R&R as there is very little clean up. But if you don't expect to pull that pan anytime soon I suggest you consider using the OEM style with lots of sealant. But you generally don't want to use sealant on those rubber gaskets.
Briansshop
08-08-2020, 10:33 AM
Another related question. Am I fine reusing my oil pan gasket? It's a steel core one piece rubber gasket. I'm planning on cleaning off the RTV I had placed in the corners around the curved parts of the pan.
Maybe. I'm not a fan of the one piece gaskets. Tried once,haven't tried again. I prefer : https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-5890 This on the side gaskets: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ptx-80057 And some RTV in the corners where the rubber F/R seals meet with the side gaskets. Done right, no leaks,but removal is hard! It'll be stuck on there good!
egchewy79
08-08-2020, 03:45 PM
Found some studs at my local hardware store. When I was previously referencing 1/2", that was the socket size, not the bolt. Studs are 5/16" coarse on the block side and fine thread on the other. I bought 4 for the larger ones at the front and rear and will use these to help guide the pan and gasket on when it's time to reassemble.
phileas_fogg
08-10-2020, 11:48 AM
Found some studs at my local hardware store. When I was previously referencing 1/2", that was the socket size, not the bolt. Studs are 5/16" coarse on the block side and fine thread on the other. I bought 4 for the larger ones at the front and rear and will use these to help guide the pan and gasket on when it's time to reassemble.
You may find that the studs are so long that you can't angle the pan up past the block off plate. Of course the only way to find out if the studs are too long is to try, so do a dry fit! If so, you can always use studs (or bolts with the heads cut off) in the 4 smaller holes right next to the 4 on the end.
John
Found some studs at my local hardware store. When I was previously referencing 1/2", that was the socket size, not the bolt. Studs are 5/16" coarse on the block side and fine thread on the other. I bought 4 for the larger ones at the front and rear and will use these to help guide the pan and gasket on when it's time to reassemble.
Most hardware store fasteners are low strength Grade-2 and made in China to boot. If you want medium strength Grade-5 studs (Grade-5 fasteners are used by the OEM) you can get them at McMaster-carr.
But for your application I'd suggest you go wit 12-point capscrews like these ARP: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-641-0560 as they exceed Ford standards and use a flange head (no washer required) and the head size is 3/8" 12-pt making it easy to reach with a socket. For $10 you can solve your fastener problem and have piece of mind they won't fail like the cheapo depot ones. Just get the length you need, the example is one I pulled out of the air.