Bodywork question

[Ponymedic]

Hopefully I can get some input from the Jeffs or one of the other bodywork gurus.
planning on taking the week off to (hopefully) finish block sanding and lay down some color. Purchased the materials- Shopline High build 2k primer/ surfacer-Shopline sealer- then Deltron 2000 color. After re reading some of the past threads was thinking about shooting featherfill or slicksand before the high build primer, thoughts? I know it says it can be sanded after a few hours but how long should I wait after featherfill before shooting primer

As always
Thanks
Nick

[Jeff Kleiner]

I prefer SS over FF and cut the final pass about 10% with acetone. With either SS or FF the primer/surfacer can go on after you finish sanding. Same with the 2K primer; sealer after it has been sanded. Sealer must be covered with paint within 72 hours but I don't push it that far and try to do it immediately.

Good luck!

Jeff

[j.miller]

My first prime is with polyester (slick sand, feather fill, G2...etc) I block that with 150. Second prime is with Shop Line 2k urethane that is blocked with 320 then wet sanded with 500-600. With the warm or hot summer days priming one day and sanding the next (so about 16 hrs) works just fine. I always prime 3 full coats...da bat

[Jryasko]

Jeff you said 3 coats of prime, but only referred to 2. Is the 3rd coat urethane, with the 500-600 and sanding process as well ?

[Jacob McCrea]

"After re reading some of the past threads was thinking about shooting featherfill or slicksand before the high build primer, thoughts?"

I gave serious thought to skipping any high-build primer (whether polyester or catalyzed urethane) and just using some heavy coats of epoxy. I was rightly talked out of it. What I had failed to appreciate was just how wavy the fiberglass body is on the Type 65, and how much blocking and high-build primer is required to really get the body straight. I imagine the roadster is the same. The Slick Sand gave me a great second chance to make the body a hell of a lot straighter than what I could have accomplished with a single step of epoxy or high-build urethane primer.

As for the Slick Sand itself, I've only used it once and was really impressed with it. It sands really well, filled the pinholes I missed really well, can be laid down pretty flat if reduced as noted above, and dollar for dollar is a real value.

[Jeff Kleiner]

For Ponymedic,
Just be aware that to shoot either SS or FF you'll need to send it through a big hole and put some pressure behind it! Even a common 1.8 will leave you with a lot of grainy dry spray. I have a dedicated gun with a 2.5 used just for Slick Sand. I follow the same recipe as Miller---gosh, it's almost like we talk and compare notes---with 150 on Slick Sand then 320 dry/600 wet on the 2K before sealer. Sealer just gets a little nib to knock down dust or boogers as necessary.

Jeff

[Ponymedic]

Thanks guys ss or feather fill it is

[j.miller]

Jeff you said 3 coats of prime, but only referred to 2. Is the 3rd coat urethane, with the 500-600 and sanding process as well ?


I only prime twice. Each time I prime I put on 3 consecutive coats. First is 3 coats of polyester and the second prime is 3 coats of urethane. When you prime you put on one coat, let that coat flash (solvents escape)for aprox 10mins , apply a 2nd coat, flash and then a 3rd coat. Soooo 3 coats per priming session...da Bat

[rich grsc]

I only prime twice. Each time I prime I put on 3 consecutive coats. First is 3 coats of polyester and the second prime is 3 coats of urethane. When you prime you put on one coat, let that coat flash (solvents escape)for aprox 10mins , apply a 2nd coat, flash and then a 3rd coat. Soooo 3 coats per priming session...da Bat
Wait, what about Rum time? :o

[Ponymedic]

Thanks guys ss or feather fill it is Jeff I have primer gun I bought with a 2.0 tip will that work

[Ponymedic]

professor Miller I bought a new bottle and plan on going sailing with Captian Morgan at each step

[GoDadGo]

Wait, what about Rum time? :o

Tequila, Scotch, Rum & Gin!

The Mexican Martini:......2 oz Gin / .75 Oz Tequila
The Scotsman Martini:...2 oz Gin / .75 Oz Scotch
The Island Martini:........2 oz Gin / .75 Oz Rum

.We Must Not Discriminate!

[rich grsc]

Gin,:( that's what I use to clean my guns.

[j.miller]

Thanks guys ss or feather fill it is Jeff I have primer gun I bought with a 2.0 tip will that work

Sooooo, I like a 2.2 -2.5 for polyester but a 2.0 will work. Thinning 10-15 percent with acetone will help it move through the gun. It's best to try to mix enough polyester to do each coat individually. Polyester will start to gel in the bucket if it sits too long. Give a quick rinse of the gun with acetone between coats. Once it starts to gel there is no saving it so if that starts to happen get it out of the gun is quick as possible...da at

[Jeff Kleiner]

...Once it starts to gel there is no saving it so if that starts to happen get it out of the gun is quick as possible...da at

Side story. My next door neighbor Paul, a great 81 year old guy, has been doing a resto-mod on his '66 Chevy pickup and stops over often with questions. Cab is finished and looks great and now he's working on the bed. He came by a couple of weeks ago on a 94 degree day carrying his primer gun and said "You weren't kidding when you said it will kick off fast and set in the gun if you aren't careful!" He chucked it in my trash barrel and went home to get online to order a replacement :(

Jeff

[j.miller]

Side story. My next door neighbor Paul, a great 81 year old guy, has been doing a resto-mod on his '66 Chevy pickup and stops over often with questions. Cab is finished and looks great and now he's working on the bed. He came by a couple of weeks ago on a 94 degree day carrying his primer gun and said "You weren't kidding when you said it will kick off fast and set in the gun if you aren't careful!" He chucked it in my trash barrel and went home to get online to order a replacement :(

Jeff

YUP !!! it's like that !

[Ponymedic]

Ok so here is where I am. Set up my three car garage as a booth, great crossflow.I have 3 coats feather fill sanded to 220. 2k primer then 220/320/400 getting ready to go over again with 600. Going to shoot deltron bmw metallic black ( the MK4 in the showroom color). Two questions for the experts. Shooting base tonight then masking for stripes tomorrow morning.
Any tips on making stripes straight? Planning to use a laser line to help make it straight. But am concerned.
Second question it is supposed to rain tomorrow afternoon. I should be done with clear prior but I remember hearing the humidity might affect and haze...thoughts?

Thoughts

[Jeff Kleiner]

I (and my pals Miller and Pike, among others) spray the stripe color first, lay out and mask then put down the main body color. Lots less masking this way. As far as layout, set the hood and trunk lid into position with their gaps equalized all around and tape them into place so that they don’t move. Put the license plate lamp into place on the trunk lid and mark it’s canter. Go to the front and mark the center between the headlights. Now pull a string tight from your marks the whole distance. That’s the centerline you’ll measure from. No fancy laser required! If you’re leaving a typical 1” strip of main body color between the stripes simply measure 1/2” each way off of the centerline. Once that is established you’ll simply measure from there for your preferred stripe width applying taper if that’s your preference. RE: Clear; humidity and temperature can definitely come into play but unless you’re at the extreme end using the proper reducer&/or activator will allow you to compensate.

Good luck!

Jeff

[j.miller]

[QUOTE=Ponymedic;423836]Ok so here is where I am. Set up my three car garage as a booth, great crossflow.I have 3 coats feather fill sanded to 220. 2k primer then 220/320/400 getting ready to go over again with 600. Going to shoot deltron bmw metallic black ( the MK4 in the showroom color). Two questions for the experts. Shooting base tonight then masking for stripes tomorrow morning.
Any tips on making stripes straight? Planning to use a laser line to help make it straight. But am concerned.
Second question it is supposed to rain tomorrow afternoon. I should be done with clear prior but I remember hearing the humidity might affect and haze...thoughts?


Stripes... There are 5 points you have to hit. Getting there is up to you. You need to tape the hood and decklid in place. I start at the center of the license light pad and using 1/4 in fineline tape bring it over the center of the car hitting the center of the scoop opening and then the canter of the nose (I have to lift and lower the tape several times to get it correct). On the deck lid chances are the latch hole isn't centered so you'll have to do some fudging to hit the center of the hole and still have your stripes look good.(we hide our secrets under the license plate. Up at the oil cooler the center of the nose is not the center of the cooler so measure and mark that...….I give up.....KLEINER !!! could you confuse this guy less then I am ?...da Bat



Ok ,so he was at it at the same time. Best of luck.

[Ponymedic]

Thanks guys. Sanding took longer than expected ( go figure) so the humiditiy thing does not come into play. Thanks for the striping advice good stuff

[Ponymedic]

Thanks guys. Sanding took longer than expected ( go figure) so the humiditiy thing does not come into play. Thanks for the striping advice good stuff

[Ponymedic]

One more question for the group. Are the front fenders supposed to be perfectly round it seems like I have a little bit of a flat spot on the inboard side of both fenders about 8 to 10" back from the headlight. Is this normal? If not is there a good way to make sure the shape is correct. Wanna make sure it's correct before I paint

[Jeff Kleiner]

Sounds like you may be talking about the parting line where the nose meets the section that surrounds the hood opening and makes up the top of the fenders. There is an area here where the contour changes from convex to concave. It would be pretty easy to loose your shape there and wind up with a flat. Other possibility and maybe where you're talking about is the 3 way mold intersection between the nose, the hood surround section and the outer front quarter on both the left or right. That's another place where you could possibly wind up with a flat, especially if the panel alignment was off. Long story short and the answer to your question is that no, nothing along the convex tops of the fenders or the concave transition onto the nose should be flat.

"Make sure the shape is correct" is mostly a matter of feel and your eyes. Sometimes it can help to wet down the panel to show a reflection or use a guide coat.

Good luck!

Jeff

[Ponymedic]

134243134244134245
Sooo painted over the weekend. Pretty happy overall little bit of orange peel and dirt specs but those are problems for ....wait for it....more sanding. BTW Love the Kleiner flip table

[GoDadGo]

134243134244134245
Sooo painted over the weekend. Pretty happy overall little bit of orange peel and dirt specs but those are problems for ....wait for it....more sanding. BTW Love the Kleiner flip table

That's Way, Way, Way Better Than I Could Ever Do!
Well Done Pony Medic, Well Done!
https://youtu.be/k0AuipqPqsU

[Ponymedic]

HEARTBREAK... Think I know the answer but want to ask.
Finished sanding the body yesterday and found two dime size spots where I sanded thru the clear and into the base coat( outside of the headlight bucket on both sides. The rest of the body was sanded to 5000 and buffed (know I should have stopped as soon as I saw it). The plan I have as of now is clean thoroughly with prep, sand the body with 1000, fix color then shoot 2 coats of clear on the whole body and another 2 coats in that area. Trying to look at the glass half full orange peel should be alot less. Thoughts from the bodywork gurus out there

[RBachman]

Bourbon, Pappy VanWinkle. Neat.


Tequila, Scotch, Rum & Gin!

The Mexican Martini:......2 oz Gin / .75 Oz Tequila
The Scotsman Martini:...2 oz Gin / .75 Oz Scotch
The Island Martini:........2 oz Gin / .75 Oz Rum

.We Must Not Discriminate!