Rear harness questions

[JohnK]

Hey all,

I'm making some mods to the rear harness before installing it in the chassis, and I have a few questions. I'm adding three circuits to the harness, and planning to remove one:

Add: Reverse lights
Add: Trunk light
Add: E-Stopp actuator power

Remove: Speedometer signal from transmission

I'm running 16 ga. wire for the reverse and trunk lights, and 12 ga. for the E-Stopp based on the fact that the original E-Stopp harness has a 10A fuse (and using this calculator (https://www.wirebarn.com/Wire-Calculator-_ep_41.html) to figure out correct wire gauge per amperage/distance).

First question - Does this look like a good spot to bring the rear harness into the DS footbox? It seems like it will be up high enough to not be visible from the cockpit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132779&d=1596235933

Second question - if I come through this spot into the footbox, how much of the harness do I need extending into the footbox? Out of the box, there's only ~5" of harness past the grommet but I have no idea if this is enough based on where I want to bring it in, or if I need to push the grommet down further to have more harness in the footbox.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132778&d=1596235918

Third question - looking at the TKO600, it appears that the reverse light connector on the trans is forward of the speed sensor. If I bring the ground wire for the reverse lights out of the conduit ~12" forward of where the current speed sensor is and put the connector for the trans in series there, does that seem like approx. the right location?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132777&d=1596235909

Fourth question - besides what I've already mentioned, are there any other add-ons I need to be thinking about before I install the harness? I'd hate to put it in and realize later that I forgot some cool mod that I should have added.

Last question - I know a few folks have mentioned shortening the leads going to the fuel pump and fuel sender. What's the best way to do that? Do you de-pin those wires at the weatherpak connector on the footbox side of the harness and shorten wires and install new weatherpak pins? That seems like a cleaner way to go vs. introducing butt connectors in the harness. Is there an approx. amount most people are removing?

If it makes a difference, I have the drop trunk mod.

Thanks,
John

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132776&d=1596235899

[Rdone585]

I'm not sure what your plans are for the car. If you ever want to track it you may want a power line for a cool suit cooler. I have a switch on my dash for a cool suit cooler strapped down in the trunk. I guess most put the cooler in the passenger seat area, but I often have a passenger in that seat. The huge challenge I have now is finding or making a cooler that will fit in the trunk and not leak. The cool suit cooler that's commercially available is too tall. So I'm trying to design one that I can build, will fit in the trunk, and not leak.

Robert

[JohnK]

Thanks for the suggestion Robert. I may track the car a few times, but probably not enough to warrant a cool suit. You did remind me, however, of something else I meant to add so thank you! When I used to do a lot of motorcycle riding, one of the things that really extended the season for me was heated gear... heated saddle, heated grips, heated jacket and heated gloves. With all that I could ride comfortably down to ~30 degrees. Not planning to do any long multi-day tours in freezing weather in the roadster, but I am going to install heated seats like many have done, and I also wanted to install a panel-mount coax connector like this one (https://www.warmnsafe.com/collections/accessories-cables/products/coax-jack-panel-mount) to be able to plug in a heated jacket. We get lots of crisp sunny days in the winter around here that would be great days to get out for a cruise with some heated gear.

-John

[edwardb]

This picture shows the common location for bringing the rear harness into the cockpit. Under the 2-inch tube and in the angled portion of the footbox side. Factory Five used to put a small cutout there. Usually needed to be enlarged but in the same spot. Maybe not doing that now. My picture is a little messy since it was early in the wiring process. But hopefully shows it. Also you can see that I used a padded clamp on the 2-inch tube and the length I left. Visible if you get down and look underneath, but not from normal viewing angles at the top.

The additions you're adding are fine. One hint though. It's fine you're running dedicated ground wires. But really not necessary. You can just run the hot wires and ground at the chassis near whatever you're adding. I can't give you a specific spot for the reverse wires. I mock that stuff up with the pieces (e.g. engine, trans) in place. As far as the rear wires, yes you'll probably find the sender and pump wires are too long. I personally shorten them, but don't try to take the connectors apart. I cut the wires and use a sleeve crimp, solder, and shrink sleeve. Done that kind of thing for years. I don't like butt connectors and don't use them. I'd leave the wires the stock length rather than adding butt connectors. Not going to hurt a thing. Just my personal preference.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/IMG_4111_cropped.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/a/91d1b235-3b11-4308-85a4-055dadcc1f9e/p/eb8e0a08-77be-4bd2-84b6-bf15f760159f)

[rich grsc]

As Paul notes, no need to run ground wires for each circuit, just ground to the frame.

[JohnK]

Thank you both very much! I appreciate the help.

-John

[initiator]

If there's any chance you'll want a 3rd brake light, this is the time!