View Full Version : Trunk/hatchback aluminum floor panel......
rj35pj
10-03-2011, 06:51 AM
Does anyone out there have a good process for removing and installing the rear floor? I would almost pay money to see the aluminum guys at FFR install the rear floor for shipping. Unless I'm missing something obvious it is quite a chore and I never seem to be able to do it the same way or the right way twice. :confused: Anyone have an interesting story or comment?
Thanks,
Bob
riptide motorsport
10-03-2011, 07:54 AM
You have to bow it and massage it in, might help if you bow it and tie it with a string to get it close to position then cut the string and cram it in!!! Swipe ago for me but I do remember bowing it quite a bit.... HTH. .... Steven
Hankl
10-03-2011, 08:33 AM
Steven is correct, you need to bend it slightly in the middle, it works better if you have two people doing it. Bend it, drop one side in, then the other.
Hank :cool:
skullandbones
10-03-2011, 08:56 AM
OK. Bob. Just for kicks, I went out to the garage and installed the forward trunk alum once again (took about 3 minutes). I was mocking up the battery box location and changed that so the cut for the battery box has to be remarked from underneath. I put a gentle bend from side to side just like the picture in the manual. I have two roll bar flanges but they are not the problem. The holes are cut large enough for extra play. The culprits are the forward corners front and side edges on both sides. The fit is amazingly tight. Because it's a trapazoid, it has to go all the way forward and centered. Once you have the holes for the roll bars over the flanges, it is a matter of small nudges forward and left or right to keep it centered. I kept pressing the alum down at the front corners while holding the back of the alum and adjusting forward. Don't get impatient with the job. Pretty soon, the seat belt anchor points start to "peek thru". A few more nudges and the alum pops into place. I think this is one of FFRs little tricks to test your metal. No pun intended. Have fun, WEK.
John Dol
10-03-2011, 10:34 AM
Bob,
http://i956.photobucket.com/albums/ae46/jdcoupe1969/driverssidepanels007.jpg
Ratched strap, and bend in to about a 32-34 inch spread at the strap. Place the panel, and massage the front ends in one at a time. Push the top of the hump under the roll bar and position the rest. Loosen the strap from below. The closer the strap to the roll bar notches the better.
I just installed mine permenantly yesterday. I ended up cutting the strap for final install as to not get the caulk all botched up.
John
xlr8or
10-03-2011, 11:32 AM
The other option is to split the panel and make it a right and left side.
John Dol
10-03-2011, 02:05 PM
The other option is to split the panel and make it a right and left side.
Yeah but that way does not qualify for Hanks straight jacket!:D
John
rj35pj
10-03-2011, 02:27 PM
The other option is to split the panel and make it a right and left side.
xir8or, I did consider splitting the panel but stubborn me figured if FFR can do it then I can too. I'm just glad to see that others have been challenged by this.
xlr8or
10-03-2011, 04:11 PM
Yeah but that way does not qualify for Hanks straight jacket!:D
John
Aligning the drivers door alone qualifies for that. ;)
xlr8or
10-03-2011, 04:13 PM
rj, everyone stuggles with that piece if you don't split it. The trick is to keep the rollbar covered so you don't scratch up the powder coat. You'll have that panel in and out several times. Just about the time you get the hang of it you'll mount it permanently.
If I remember correctly I found easier to flex the edges down to put it in but flexed them up to take it out.