Mk4 front body mounting

[tbl100]

Anybody use these? I've heard that they can put undue stress on the body and cause cracking around the front turn signals.

132279

Thank you,
Tim

[michael everson]

I buy the rubber bushings from ********** and then make new 3/4 tubes that fit tight in the bushings.. Very secure and no chance of cracking.
Mike

[Jeff Kleiner]

I've gotten cars in that show fractures in the turn signal pad area when the horseshoes have been installed and do not use them. Like Mike said, and as I showed an owner earlier this week when he picked one up that I just finished, with the body grommets and proper sized tubes (which FFR's are not) the nose is completely stable.

Jeff

[GoDadGo]

Hummm!

I used the Horseshoes and now wonder if I should remove them.
I did support the body with new custom brackets that sit on the 3/4" tube near the top of the radiator support and also have the gromets from **********.
In addition, after I had the body resting in place for about 10 days I drilled the body and countersunk screws in the glass and through the bracket.
This allows my lights can sit flush plus the screws holding the body are in holes instead of the slots in the horseshoe brackets.
The horseshoes are NOT supporting the body, just steadying the front fenders.
Everything seems to be rock solid so what say you Sir Jeffski & Mr. Mike?
Your Opinions Matter Over Here At The O.C.D. Shop At Camp Go-Dad!

Steve

[nuhale]

7275 didn't come with these mounts as the earlier MK4 design with more support at the nose frame mounts. FFR did send me the horseshoe brackets and had intended to install which would require cutting the frame mount. After some reading decided to try the grommet method first and found that these alone really do support the front well. Used Mike Eversons suggestion on McMaster aluminum tube PN# 9056K33. Polished up the aluminum and looks perfect. You will see the horseshoe brackets available in my upcoming garage sale! This coupled with Kleiner's rear mounting method was pretty straight forward.

[j.miller]

Grommets around my campfire...da Bat

[egchewy79]

I've gotten cars in that show fractures in the turn signal pad area when the horseshoes have been installed and do not use them. Like Mike said, and as I showed an owner earlier this week when he picked one up that I just finished, with the body grommets and proper sized tubes (which FFR's are not) the nose is completely stable.

Jeff

Jeff, which grommets do you recommend?
**********? should I order these now and expect them to arrive in 3 months?

[EZ$]

egchewy79, I found another source for the grommets, but since they're not a vendor here I don't want to post them here. If you'd like the name PM me, and I'll give you the info. Not sure if I ran across this in a thread here or on the other forum. They also have polished SS tubes, but I think those are way too expensive. The aluminum ones that Nuhale referenced from Mike's recommendation, or source the metal on your own, and cut and polish as needed.

[Ducky2009]

Sitting on the top of the firewall and supported only with the ********** rubber bushings in the front doesn't seem like that's enough. I added solid PVC (3/4" x 1' from the local hardware store) to the top of the 3/4" frame rails (front to back) and contoured it to fit/fill the gap between the frame rail and the under side of the body. Glad I did. Had someone come up and sit on the fender. That didn't last long. lol

[Jeff Kleiner]

Jeff, which grommets do you recommend?
**********? should I order these now and expect them to arrive in 3 months?

I don't waste my time with ********** anymore. Go to Metro Molded Parts and buy a set of these:

https://www.metrommp.com/index.cfm?f=detail&ModelNumber=EX%2017-B&VehicleYear=1965&Make=SHELBY&Model=COBRA

They cost less than ********** and will arrive in a few days rather than months.

For the tubes go to Online Metals:

https://www.onlinemetals.com/

For front quick jacks or bumpers you'll need 2 feet of
0.75" OD x 0.065" Wall x 0.62" ID Stainless Round Tube, 304 Seamless - Part #: 12927
You'll cut that into four 5.5" long pieces.

Cheers,
Jeff

[egchewy79]

Sitting on the top of the firewall and supported only with the ********** rubber bushings in the front doesn't seem like that's enough. I added solid PVC (3/4" x 1' from the local hardware store) to the top of the 3/4" frame rails (front to back) and contoured it to fit/fill the gap between the frame rail and the under side of the body. Glad I did. Had someone come up and sit on the fender. That didn't last long. lol

how'd you secure the PVC? silicone? screws? did you use the foam weather stripping that came w/ the kit?

[Jeff Kleiner]

how'd you secure the PVC? silicone? screws? did you use the foam weather stripping that came w/ the kit?

Please use a method that will make it easy for me to remove it.

Jeff

[Greg K]

Metro Molded also has other rubber parts and accessories.
Link to product sheet: https://www.metrommp.com/images/Catalogs/Cobra%20Rubber%20Parts%20mini-cat%20v14.pdf



I don't waste my time with ********** anymore. Go to Metro Molded Parts and buy a set of these:

https://www.metrommp.com/index.cfm?f=detail&ModelNumber=EX%2017-B&VehicleYear=1965&Make=SHELBY&Model=COBRA

They cost less than ********** and will arrive in a few days rather than months.

For the tubes go to Online Metals:

https://www.onlinemetals.com/

For front quick jacks or bumpers you'll need 2 feet of
0.75" OD x 0.065" Wall x 0.62" ID Stainless Round Tube, 304 Seamless - Part #: 12927
You'll cut that into four 5.5" long pieces.

Cheers,
Jeff

[Ducky2009]

Drilled and c'sink holes in the PVC and self tapping screws into the 3/4" frame rail. I did not secure the body to the PVC, just have the body resting on something solid. The PVC filled the gap and support the body, no room (or need) for the foam. I'm guessing, the foam would help seal the wheel well from the engine compartment, assuming to keep water out.

Not sure why the resistance by some to have something supporting the body in this way.

[j.miller]

Drilled and c'sink holes in the PVC and self tapping screws into the 3/4" frame rail. I did not secure the body to the PVC, just have the body resting on something solid. The PVC filled the gap and support the body, no room (or need) for the foal. I'm guessing, the foam would help seal the wheel well from the engine compartment, assuming to keep water out.

Not sure why the resistance by some to have something supporting the body in this way.



With Ducky on this one. I don't use PVC I use ….(wait for it )….."PLYWOOD" !....SAME, SAME. Between the wood and the grommets there is no issue with holding the nose up. What it also gives you is more room for the hood hinge assy to not land on the radiator upper support..da Bat

[Chilly]

Do you have a link or a picture showing what you are using?

[Jeff Kleiner]

My apologies Duck. I misunderstood and thought you were screwing through the body's hood flange then through your shim and into the tubing. My mistake :( Like Batty I shim the nose up at the very front---I use two, sometimes three thicknesses of this rubber that is a little less than 1/4" thick and run it about 6" back on the rails. Same end result as he gets with plywood (I tell him that a termite infestation will bring his whole empire tumbling down. Here's a pic:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132309&d=1593171081

Cheers,
Jeff

132309

[j.miller]

My apologies Duck. I misunderstood and thought you were screwing through the body's hood flange then through your shim and into the tubing. My mistake :( Like Batty I shim the nose up at the very front---I use two, sometimes three thicknesses of this rubber that is a little less than 1/4" thick and run it about 6" back on the rails. Same end result as he gets with plywood (I tell him that a termite infestation will bring his whole empire tumbling down. Here's a pic:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=132309&d=1593171081

Cheers,
Jeff

132309


Termites ,Shmermites….ain't afraid of C-19 why should I be afraid of termites....Murder Hornets...that's a whole other thing....da Bat

[GoDadGo]

After seeing this entire thread, I'm happy with my over-engineered solution.

Thank you all for your responses because they were all helpful and thank you TBL100 for starting this thread.

[Ducky2009]

Not the best pic. The shim is tapered/contoured to fill the gap. Not as flexible as Jeff's rubber spacers. Rubber never crossed my mine at the time.

[Kmcallahan]

To all who posting questions, comments and direction. This thread is a good read and thanks to all.

[tbl100]

To all who posting questions, comments and direction. This thread is a good read and thanks to all.

Yes, thank you to all. It's turned out to be very informative. I'm still waiting on parts from **********. No response to calls or email but I hear he's starting to fill orders again. 6 weeks and counting. I still have a little time but keeping Metro and Online Metals on speed dial.

[CraigS]

It is really a shame about **********. Back in the day they were a very well regarded vender. I have no idea what has caused the down turn but it is sad.

[Jeff Kleiner]

It is really a shame about **********. Back in the day they were a very well regarded vender. I have no idea what has caused the down turn but it is sad.

Paula and Enzo were highly regarded vendors for years. After Enzo's passing Paula carried on with ********** for a couple of years and provided the same excellent service we had always known. A few years ago she sold the business and that seems to be when the changes occured.

Jeff

[Hacksaw84]

I've gotten cars in that show fractures in the turn signal pad area when the horseshoes have been installed and do not use them. Like Mike said, and as I showed an owner earlier this week when he picked one up that I just finished, with the body grommets and proper sized tubes (which FFR's are not) the nose is completely stable.

Jeff

Jeff, what if you wanted to go with no bumpers or quick jacks. Like I think your car and that one you painted with the nice interior. What do you do to support the front?

Thanks,
Michael

[Blue Viking]

Metro Molded also has other rubber parts and accessories.
Link to product sheet: https://www.metrommp.com/images/Catalogs/Cobra%20Rubber%20Parts%20mini-cat%20v14.pdf

Do you know if the trunk and hood latch pads and headlight trim ring seals will also fit on the FFR parts? They are listed as Backdraft parts.

[tbl100]

I don't waste my time with ********** anymore. Go to Metro Molded Parts and buy a set of these:

https://www.metrommp.com/index.cfm?f=detail&ModelNumber=EX%2017-B&VehicleYear=1965&Make=SHELBY&Model=COBRA

They cost less than ********** and will arrive in a few days rather than months.

For the tubes go to Online Metals:

https://www.onlinemetals.com/

For front quick jacks or bumpers you'll need 2 feet of
0.75" OD x 0.065" Wall x 0.62" ID Stainless Round Tube, 304 Seamless - Part #: 12927
You'll cut that into four 5.5" long pieces.

Cheers,
Jeff

Ok, looks like I'm gong to have to go this route since ********** is a no show with my order even after calling me and saying he was shipping my parts. No response to email or my followup call.

One question: I can't fine the rear grommets on Metro's site where do you get those?

Thank you,
Tim

[rich grsc]

Ok, looks like I'm gong to have to go this route since ********** is a no show with my order even after calling me and saying he was shipping my parts. No response to email or my followup call.

One question: I can't fine the rear grommets on Metro's site where do you get those?

Thank you,
Tim
???? If you click on the link, it takes you right to the grommets.

[tbl100]

???? If you click on the link, it takes you right to the grommets.

Yes when I click on the link it takes me to the grommets but just for the Front. I searched the website but no grommets for the Rear. What am I missing? I also would like matching ones for the Rear.

I'll give them a call.

Thank you,
Tim

[Jeff Kleiner]

Tim,
I don’t use rear grommets or pass through tubes because then you can’t adjust the lower valance in or out to match the trunk lid.

Jeff

[tbl100]

Tim,
I don’t use rear grommets or pass through tubes because then you can’t adjust the lower valance in or out to match the trunk lid.

Jeff

Oh, ok. That seems reasonable. Thank you.

[j.miller]

YES ! NO REAR GROMMETS......didn't mean to yell......drinking

[tbl100]

YES ! NO REAR GROMMETS......didn't mean to yell......drinking



hahahahaha!!!!! I can relate. Enjoy

[Jeff Kleiner]

.....didn't mean to yell......drinking

Again? Or still?

O

[j.miller]

Again? Or still?

O


I ain't no quitter !

[rich grsc]

Again? Or still?

O
Never thought I'd see a ridiculous question from you :eek:. How could it be, again? That would imply he stopped. :p

[phileas_fogg]

Woody: Would you like a beer Mr. Peterson?

Norm: Bit early, don't you think?

Woody: For a beer?

Norm: No; for you to be asking stupid questions!

[egchewy79]

I ain't no quitter !

Can't drink all day if you don't start in the morning

[uggb123]

I don't waste my time with ********** anymore. Go to Metro Molded Parts and buy a set of these:

https://www.metrommp.com/index.cfm?f=detail&ModelNumber=EX%2017-B&VehicleYear=1965&Make=SHELBY&Model=COBRA

They cost less than ********** and will arrive in a few days rather than months.

For the tubes go to Online Metals:

https://www.onlinemetals.com/

For front quick jacks or bumpers you'll need 2 feet of
0.75" OD x 0.065" Wall x 0.62" ID Stainless Round Tube, 304 Seamless - Part #: 12927
You'll cut that into four 5.5" long pieces.

Cheers,
Jeff

This is among the most helpful threads I have read. I have been struggling with the hood hinge assembly impacting the radiator so the pvc, rubber or wood trick is genius.

Plus, I was planning to use the horseshoe body mounts but will now toss them in the bin.

As a modest contribution to the group, the Metro Molded Parts website has changed things around since Jeff kindly provided the link for the front grommets (in post #10). Here is the updated link to the part number which is EX 17-B
https://metrommp.com/front-bumper-arm-grommets-shelby-cobra-and-kit-cars/

Also here is the direct link to the tube at online metals.
https://www.onlinemetals.com/en/buy/stainless-steel/0-75-od-x-0-065-wall-x-0-62-id-stainless-round-tube-304-seamless/pid/12927

Glenn

[egchewy79]

I don't waste my time with ********** anymore. Go to Metro Molded Parts and buy a set of these:

https://www.metrommp.com/index.cfm?f=detail&ModelNumber=EX%2017-B&VehicleYear=1965&Make=SHELBY&Model=COBRA

They cost less than ********** and will arrive in a few days rather than months.

For the tubes go to Online Metals:

https://www.onlinemetals.com/

For front quick jacks or bumpers you'll need 2 feet of
0.75" OD x 0.065" Wall x 0.62" ID Stainless Round Tube, 304 Seamless - Part #: 12927
You'll cut that into four 5.5" long pieces.

Cheers,
Jeff

I'll edit Jeff's previous comment. You'll want the 3/4" OD with .125" wall thickness SS sleeves. Otherwise the ID will be too large for the stock 7/16" bolts and you'll need to get some brass bushings to take up the slop. Ask me how I know...

[BUDFIVE]

Guys, old thread but best I found on body front mounting,
So I bought the Metro Moulded EX17B grommets and online-metals 12927 3/4” .065 wall tubing. But I still have the 7/16” bolts from FFR and egchewy is right, there’s a lot of slop between the bolt and the tubing. Is this acceptable? Or, Do I need thicker wall tubing? Bigger bolts? Or what bushings work?
Thanks y’all.

[egchewy79]

Guys, old thread but best I found on body front mounting,
So I bought the Metro Moulded EX17B grommets and online-metals 12927 3/4” .065 wall tubing. But I still have the 7/16” bolts from FFR and egchewy is right, there’s a lot of slop between the bolt and the tubing. Is this acceptable? Or, Do I need thicker wall tubing? Bigger bolts? Or what bushings work?
Thanks y’all.

I bought some brass bushings on McMaster Carr to take up the slop. Just find the ID of your sleeves and the OD of your bolt to get the correct sizes. Alternatively you could get larger bolts/nuts to take up the space.

[Jeff Kleiner]

If it makes you feel good you can use bushings or whatever to make up for difference but actually once you tighten the bolts the sleeves are clamped tight between the chassis and bumper/quick jack it’s a non-issue, nothing is moving and the nose is rock solid.


Jeff

[BUDFIVE]

Thanks Jeff, egchewy.