Parking Brake does not lock up rear wheels

[NA5KAR]

Hello all. It seems like my recent posts / questions all have to do with brake issues. I still have not solved the brake bleeding problem, but I will focus on that this week. Here is my immediate 'pull my hair out' issue. When I pull the parking brake handle, the rear wheels can still turn. It is obviously more difficult to turn them, but they do move. I have the standard FFR rear brakes. Dave from FFR tells me that they are from an '87 or '88 Thunderbird. I did my own modification of the 'cables over the 4" tube - and under garage door pulleys' modification. When the handle is engaged, the cables are tight.

A few weeks back, while trying to bleed the brakes, I had to take one of the calipers apart to replace the seal and dust boot because of a fluid leak. Inside, the piston is screwed onto a threaded shaft. Looking at it, it's not obvious how the brake fluid causes the piston to extend to squeeze the brake pads. With that said, I also cannot see how the parking brake cable activates the piston. I don't know if I need to solve my soft brake pedal (bleed) issue first or if this is a stand alone problem. Thanks in advance for any comments.

[rich grsc]

The parking brakes need to be adjusted to be effective, but the brakes must be bleed and working first. If the brakes are bleed, to adjust the parking brakes, apply brake pressure then set and release the park brake. It will take several sets to get it adjusted. I would set and release the park brake 4 or 5 times, then release the hydraulic brakes and check, repeat till you have acceptable parking brakes.

[NA5KAR]

Rich, thanks a million. I need to start at the beginning with the rear brakes to get them bled properly. I'll be making that my focus this week. Can't thank you enough for the guidance

Dan

[TMartinLVNV]

The parking brakes need to be adjusted to be effective, but the brakes must be bleed and working first. If the brakes are bleed, to adjust the parking brakes, apply brake pressure then set and release the park brake. It will take several sets to get it adjusted. I would set and release the park brake 4 or 5 times, then release the hydraulic brakes and check, repeat till you have acceptable parking brakes.

That is really interesting. I've never heard of that. My parking brake does not have a super strong hold either. But the brake cables are quite tight when the handle is pulled. I'll have to do this once my car is back on the ground and the steering rack re-installed.

[BadAsp427]

That is really interesting. I've never heard of that. My parking brake does not have a super strong hold either. But the brake cables are quite tight when the handle is pulled. I'll have to do this once my car is back on the ground and the steering rack re-installed.

I don’t believe you have the type of brakes they’re talking about. You have a separate set of calipers on the rear for your parking brake, correct?. If so you adjust those at the caliper with the adjustment screw and lock nut. And I have found that mine is designed to only hold the car still. Not lock them up if you yank on it.

[TMartinLVNV]

I don’t believe you have the type of brakes they’re talking about. You have a separate set of calipers on the rear for your parking brake, correct?. If so you adjust those at the caliper with the adjustment screw and lock nut. And I have found that mine is designed to only hold the car still. Not lock them up if you yank on it.

Mine are the all in one Wilwood calipers that go with the solid rear axle. I think that ones that have the separate little caliper is the IRS setup?

This is what I have:

http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/12-19-rear-wilwood-brake-kit/

My car is sitting under the cover so I have not attempted to do what was described above yet. I was planning on Thurs.

[rich grsc]

My directions are for Ford or Lincoln based rear brake calipers, as that is what the OP stated he had. I have never look at how Wilwood brakes work.

[cob427sc]

If you have the standard Ford calipers you should follow the advice above in first getting the brakes bled properly (bleed both front and rear same side calipers at the same time) then adjust the emergrncy brake cable on the base of the handle. It will take a couple of pulls and adjustment to get it set properly. Pull up the handle, adjust the slack out of the cable, repeat until the lever begins to hold at the first ratchet click. It will then hold sufficiently and be able to stop the car.

[Avalanche325]

One more possibility. If the pads aren't bedded in, they don't have much grip. Not sure if you have done that or not.

[EZ$]

Rich, my e-brake, from a 90 T-Bird, is also pathetic. I was not aware of this procedure. I'll have to give it a try once I correct so other brake items. Thanks.