Good Reliable Toggle Switch

[swwebb]

What are some good reliable toggle switches?

I used Summit Racing® Toggle Switches SUM-G3902 (not cheap at $16 each) for my fuel pump on my build as a safety feature. After 4 years but only a few tens of cycles, the toggle switch failed while I was driving. :( I hadn't used the switch for a while (months?) when it turned off by itself. Rather than clicking when switched, it is loose and floppy. Note that another reviewer had the same issue!! Luckily I could switch it back on, but I'm definitely going to replace it with a better toggle switch!

[weendoggy]

I'm just asking why you use a toggle to power a pump. More importantly, is it activating a relay or just straight 12v. power. Reason: as you see, they don't last long and putting that kind of amperage draw on a toggle is too much (unless the switch is rated such), which would be a hefty switch. Your loads should always go through a relay. Now having said this, if you have it triggering a relay, I'm not sure why your toggle failed. I use Cole Hersee toggles and relays and have the same toggles in use the past 20+ years. They trigger relays and have not failed.

[swwebb]

The toggle switch is activating the relay - it is not in line after the relay to directly power the fuel pump.

Note that another review of this toggle switch is as follows "I literally installed this thing a and maybe toggled it 25 times and now the bar is super loose." - so I think the toggle switch has some quality issues.

[weendoggy]

I guess that's a pretty poor toggle then if it can't control low amperage trigger voltage. Have you thought of just triggering the pump/relay with ignition on, or is the toggle another type of "safety" item you wanted.

[Papa]

What are some good reliable toggle switches?

I used Summit Racing® Toggle Switches SUM-G3902 (not cheap at $16 each) for my fuel pump on my build as a safety feature. After 4 years but only a few tens of cycles, the toggle switch failed while I was driving. :( I hadn't used the switch for a while (months?) when it turned off by itself. Rather than clicking when switched, it is loose and floppy. Note that another reviewer had the same issue!! Luckily I could switch it back on, but I'm definitely going to replace it with a better toggle switch!

You might try something like these:

https://prowireusa.com/c-21-mil-spec-toggle-switches.aspx

[swwebb]

I guess that's a pretty poor toggle then if it can't control low amperage trigger voltage. Have you thought of just triggering the pump/relay with ignition on, or is the toggle another type of "safety" item you wanted.

I wanted to be able to turn off the fuel pump by itself as a safety measure but also as a theft deterrent.

[swwebb]

You might try something like these:

https://prowireusa.com/c-21-mil-spec-toggle-switches.aspx

Thanks! Those look like quality toggle switches!! 40,000 mechanical cycles!! And not much more than the Summit switch. :)

[ram_g]

I bought all my extra switches (and a whole bunch of other stuff!) from McMaster Carr. See: https://www.mcmaster.com/electrical-controls/manual-switches/

[Scott L]

I got my switches (and most everything else electrical except the harness) from Delcity (delcity.net). No failures after ten years.

[Railroad]

I wanted to be able to turn off the fuel pump by itself as a safety measure but also as a theft deterrent.

Have you considered letting the key switch activate the fuel pump relay and splicing the toggle switch in line as the theft and safety feature?

[Papa]

Have you considered letting the key switch activate the fuel pump relay and splicing the toggle switch in line as the theft and safety feature?

Be sure if you put a switch in-line for your fuel pump that it is either working as a switch on the relay activation (trigger) wire or on the ground wire of your fuel pump circuit.

[GWL]

Lucas Look A Likes from Holden Vintage and Classic in the UK.

I ordered all my toggle switches from them. High quality, rated at 15 amps and look original like the Lucas switches when you add their bezel.

One of their switches:
https://www.holden.co.uk/p/toggle_sw...er_4_terminals

The bezel:
https://www.holden.co.uk/p/toggle_switch_special_bezel

Read the bezel page to see if you need the extra threaded washer for matching the hole size as the Lucas and FFR switches use a larger hole. I bought the bezel and the threaded washer to fit the pre-drilled larger holes. You don't need the threaded washer if you are drilling the holes to fit the switch.

The threaded washer:
https://www.holden.co.uk/p/toggle_sw...hreaded_washer

Video from their site re: the switches:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MZdZKTCa86s

Now, here are some nice 35 amp switches from Ron Francis Wiring:
https://www.ronfrancis.com/products.asp?dept=30

George

[skidd]

I can only speak anecdotally .. I used all Carling Tech Toggle Switches.
Here is an example of a one of the simple SPDT
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0195UJNSK/
I have a keyless pushbutton start setup, with a single toggle to turn "on" and "off" the car. so that 1 toggle is switched on/off every time I fire up the car.
The others are the same manufacturer of switch, but they see far less use than the ignition (including a 2 stage off-on-on switch for the headlights).
It's been quite a few "hundreds" of toggles, and it still works and feels just fine.
Even better.. they are not expensive, and I ordered an extra one by accident. So, I technically have a backup on hand.
my 02c