View Full Version : Using Heat To Bend Fiberglass Panels
Has anyone used heat to bend fiberglass panels? I've watched some YouTube videos of car builders (not a cobra) using a heat gun to bend some of the fiberglass panels (with gel coat) for a better fit.
Using an infrared thermometer, they warmed the area up to 150 degrees F and then used weights or clamps to keep the panel in the new position until it cooled.
I'm thinking in terms of the DS door. My personal case is the lower trailing edge sticks out quite a bit when the other areas of the door align. Pulling out the body gets it close but it's still misaligned.
I know the conventional wisdom is adjust, adjust, and then adjust some more to get it close, and then do the body work, but I'm wondering if some slight bending using heat is a viable option.
Although it seems like you could, will the door be right once you've done it? I would focus on adjusting the body to the door before trying to bend the door to the body. Just my $0.02. You can see how little Jeff had to work the door on my car in this photo:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=112085&d=1565312714
Dave
Jeff Kleiner
07-10-2020, 11:35 AM
The doors are pretty stout with an inner and outer layer and steel tubing sandwiched between. Try this; add a thick 3/8" flat washer between the door and hinge on the lower front stud then make your door and body adjustments.
Jeff
FF33rod
07-10-2020, 12:31 PM
Tried this with the hot rood hood, didn't change it at all. My guess is if it's going to work, it needs to be a newly moulded part. Mine was over a year before I tried to do it.
Steve
rich grsc
07-10-2020, 01:06 PM
If that worked, any dark color car would look like a melted wax blob after setting out in the hot sun. Think Texas or any of desert western states
GoDadGo
07-10-2020, 03:25 PM
The Heyokan Method is to slice the door, wedge it, and then re-glass it; however, everything I do is exactly opposite what is truly the norm.
No washers nor body pulling was required.
https://youtu.be/6UK6K2jcwTU
My recommendation is to get in Jeff Kleiner's Paint Queue and let him handle it.
The doors are pretty stout with an inner and outer layer and steel tubing sandwiched between. Try this; add a thick 3/8" flat washer between the door and hinge on the lower front stud then make your door and body adjustments.
Jeff
So, once again Mr. Kleiner was spot on - the 3/8" washer did the trick. The door now is very close, and no need for a ton of mud going forward to make it perfect. A much better idea than heating the fiberglass. Guess I'll pull the car out of the oven now.
131548
GoDadGo
07-10-2020, 04:24 PM
So, once again Mr. Kleiner was spot on - the 3/8" washer did the trick.
131548
99.99% Of The Time Sir Jeffski On Point!
j.miller
07-10-2020, 05:00 PM
Yep the washer trick is the ticket as well as pulling the body out about 1/2in before you fasten it to the frame in front of the wheel opening. As for heating. It works on a panel that doesn't have an inner panel. I have done it on the 33s several times. Heating the part to 180* softens the resins so when it cools down it doesn't go back to it's molded shape. To much heat for too long damages the resin bond and can lead to disaster...da bat
ggunter
08-17-2020, 01:18 PM
While we are on the subject of body work. I pick my car up tomorrow the 18th and am wondering if the way the car is shipped, is it mounted secure enough to do the body work as mounted. Is the shipped position, a position that the body will go back to once the D seal is applied when the chassis is done. When I see the bodies removed and installed the amount of flex just seems like the doors would be terribly difficult to get back to their original position. Maybe I'm overthinking this.
GoDadGo
08-17-2020, 02:16 PM
While we are on the subject of body work. I pick my car up tomorrow the 18th and am wondering if the way the car is shipped, is it mounted secure enough to do the body work as mounted. Is the shipped position, a position that the body will go back to once the D seal is applied when the chassis is done. When I see the bodies removed and installed the amount of flex just seems like the doors would be terribly difficult to get back to their original position. Maybe I'm overthinking this.
The body is well secured to the chassis.
https://youtu.be/QokuC-jzLK8?list=PLWvfrZxPoPnbmHRjXTlVS-CVcPoK4x6lB