460.465USMC's MK4 Build #9890 - Gel Red is Rad. Blue is Better!

[460.465USMC]

Link to Build Thread Index (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?36627-460-465USMC-s-MK4-Build-9890-Trunk-Lid-and-Trunk-Prop-Rod&p=523944&viewfull=1#post523944)


Happy Independence Day! One of my favorite holidays! I'm thankful for the freedoms we have, and especially for all those service members and families who have sacrificed.

This last week was also big for me for another reason: I ordered a complete MK4 kit July 1. It is supposed to be ready for pickup Sept. 12. I live in Spokane, WA, so will have it shipped here. I am so excited to take on this project!

Like many other first time builders on this forum I'm also a novice. This will be by far the largest car project I've ever undertaken. To be honest, it's a little intimidating given my meager mechanical skill. But, I have great hope for success after reading through several other first timers such as Shark92651, Papa, Straversi, VAHokie, JohnK, JB in NOVA, Jazzman, Wareaglescott, Yama-Bro, RRAC20, etc. I've done a good amount of my own vehicle maintenance over the years, and various home projects. I also have a technical background in electronics/RF. Hopefully, this will be a strong enough foundation for me to be successful.

It's been very enjoyable to read others' build threads. I am learning so much from the builders mentioned above, not to mention Sir Edwardb, and comments and tips from others like Jeff Kleiner and many others. Thank you! I'm reading through the FF build manual for the second time. I also just found out I have a neighbor (SteveP) just 15 minutes from my house who's really close to sending his MK4 off for body work/paint. So, a great resource "in the neighborhood". The number of helpful, friendly people I've encountered through this forum is really something. What a great group of people!

What I ordered from FF:

Complete MK4 kit
Setup for Coyote/TKO600 drivetrain
Powdercoated chassis
Coyote full length ball headers
Hydraulic clutch master cylinder
Body cutouts
Vinyl seats
FFR (Speedhut) GPS guage set
Front and rear sway bars
IRS
Passenger side rollbar (black)
2018 IRS 3.55 center section and spindles
13" Wilwood brakes


I haven't yet ordered the drive train. I'm considering ordering from Fortes. Also, not sure if the $300 mid-shift upgrade is better than rotating 180 deg. standard shift location. I'm looking for a short shifter, not the classic angled long handle shifter that attaches at the rear-most location on the TKO.

**Edit: I ordered the Coyote Gen 3 + TKO600 from Forte WITHOUT the mid-shift option. Will just flip the shifter around.

Mods: there will probably be a few minor Mods I will consider, but overall I plan to do a straight forward build with the version of kit I ordered. I figure a standard build will give me more than enough challenge. It will be a slow build given the limited time available I have each week. I hope to be able to carve out time to document a bit as I go along, and will definitely seek out advice from all of you master-Jedi builders who have gone before. If you've done one build, in my mind you are at master-Jedi level! It will not be a 100% classic build (obvious from my drive train decision), and will include other departures like non-Halibrand replica style wheels (haven't decided which ones yet), mid-shift (or similar), black roll bars, black exhaust, black wheels, etc. As far as paint color goes, I don't yet have a clear vision, and more than plenty of time to decide. I'm partial to orange and to white, but again, a long way off.

I got the idea to mark out the build space from Shark92651. Since I have plenty of time to finish making my garage ready for the build, the outline of the MK4's dimensions on the floor gives me a good reference point.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135528&d=1601085592

From the build threads I've read, I don't think the four post lift--seen in a couple of these pictures--will be practical until the build is pretty much done. I've had the lift for four years--it's great for maintenance, etc.

**Edit: great tip from JohnK on using four-post lift. I’m hopeful I can follow his lead.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=131200&d=1593984421

Finally...I must be honest up front and say I'm a Chevy guy at heart. I'm a huge fan of pretty much anything from the 60's (Chevy II/Nova, Chevelle, bubble tops, Camaros, etc.), and Tri-Fives. I like modern Chevrolet muscle as well. My forum name also references my Chevy roots from the HP/Torque in a C7 I used to own; the USMC reference is from my five years in the Marines as an avionics technician.

I e-mailed FF this weekend to see if they have visibility to when the Wilwood brakes will ship to me. Would be fun to get those partially assembled while I wait for kit delivery over the next 12+ weeks.

**Edit: Wilwood brakes were received in early August. Hats assembled to rotors, and safety wired.

Chris

[Railroad]

I would clean out under and around the lift. I think you will be much better served there. You might hang the body from the ceiling or put it where you have taped off.
Great choices for your build. Just tell Mike what you want to do on the TKO shifter. He can set it up before it ships.

[Straversi]

Congratulations and welcome. You have a good plan, a great work space. We look forward to follow along and help as needed. Also, thank you for your service.
-Steve

[460.465USMC]

Congratulations and welcome. You have a good plan, a great work space. We look forward to follow along and help as needed. Also, thank you for your service.
-Steve

Thanks, Steve! I just discovered your build thread this weekend. Enjoying it! Appreciate your documentation and sharing of lessons learned.

[460.465USMC]

I would clean out under and around the lift. I think you will be much better served there. You might hang the body from the ceiling or put it where you have taped off.
Great choices for your build. Just tell Mike what you want to do on the TKO shifter. He can set it up before it ships.

Thanks for the input, Railroad! I'm indeed thinking of suspending the body from the ceiling (it's about 12.5 feet high) over the taped out area below. This will allow me to keep the lift available in case one of my sons needs to use it, or I need to maintenance on my wife's pickup.

[JB in NOVA]

Congrats, Chris! You are in for a great adventure. This forum is a pure American gem! I wish you great success, and be sure to post lots of pictures.

[460.465USMC]

Thanks for the well wishes, JB! I'll need them! Received my Wilwood brakes yesterday. This will be the First of many, many firsts as I try my hand at safety wiring, and my first use of RED LOCTITE (per Wilwood instructions) on the 12 bolts that secure the hats to the rotors. Going to borrow safety wire pliers and inch-pound torque wrench from a fellow MK4 builder and neighbor (Thanks SteveP!). Oh, and I guess it would help if I bought some some safety wire.

[460.465USMC]

Wilwood Brakes - Safety Wired

Who would have guessed .032 stainless safety wire is an elusive item? Not this Greenhorn. Not available locally, at least not that I could find. Napa? Nope. HD? Lowes? Ace Hardware? Harbor Freight? Nope. Nope. Nope. And, Nope! Turned to online sources and found it readily available from Aircraft Spruce. Bought 25' for $1.25--twice that for shipping. Doh!

Watched a couple YouTube videos, and set off to tackle the job. It was a bit tedious, but I enjoyed it overall. I think I got better with some practice, so in theory my fourth rotor was the best...not sure about that.

Picture of one completed.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=133476&d=1597204324


I thought 25' would be plenty (figured 9"-10" per pair of bolts would suffice). I probably went a bit over-the-top in my miserliness (i.e. too cheap to buy the next size up...something like 100' or more).

Here's a typical pile of ends after each rotor. The one long piece is from the one I had to redo. Didn't exactly waste much. If I had to do over, I would have just spent the few extra bucks and purchased the larger spool of wire.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=133478&d=1597204553




A couple bonus pictures (taken with my Samsung S10) of dual rainbows out our back door a few days ago. They seemed so close I could reach out and touch them.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=133479&d=1597204564

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=133480&d=1597204580

[460.465USMC]

Patience is a virtue, right?

It's been about 11 weeks since I ordered my complete kit. I contacted F5 and they said my kit is done--right on schedule (Sept. 12). I asked for a picture (is it called a nursery picture?), and Dave B. said he would snap one and send my way. I'm way out on the west coast, about as far from F5 one can be and still be in the continental U.S., so no surprise it takes a while for the transport company to put together a route to get it here. The transporter (Stewart) says delivery should be around Oct. 9-12, so about another three weeks or so. Oof! Thought I was a patient guy--I have five kids--but the wait is killing me already! First world problems!

P.S. still reading and taking notes from you guys on the forum. I can't thank you all enough for all of the knowledge you're passing along to us first-timers!

Chris

[JB in NOVA]

I feel your pain. But it's worth the wait, trust me.

[460.465USMC]

Wahoo! It exists! This makes my dream project a bit more real. F5 emailed me this picture. Thanks, Dave B! Just a little over two weeks until delivery.


In the Nursery
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=135514&d=1601054028

P.S. only my elderly parents get away with calling me me Christian. For everyone else, it's just Chris. :)

[460.465USMC]

At long last my complete kit arrived last Thursday: 116 days from date of order. Really glad it's here, and more than ready to get my hands on it.

Kelly from Stewart Transport was awesome! He couldn't have been more helpful. I have a 250' or so gravel driveway, so we loaded it onto his cart, then pulled it the 250' into my garage. Several trips back and forth later and it was all safe and sound in its new home.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136542&d=1603169869


Great job, Kelly! He's on the right, and yours truly on the left.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136543&d=1603169898


Now, on to inventory. Don't ask me how long it took. :rolleyes: IT was a bit more involved task than I expected, but I think the hours of investment now will pay back throughout the build. I'm MUCH more familiar with the parts that are part of the kit, and even had a nice surprise to see the polished knob and short shifter included as part of the Coyote/TKO600 drivetrain.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136544&d=1603169929

Next, I'll take a number of pictures to document the body placement (relative to panel accessibility with body-on), remove the body, suspend it from the ceiling for storage until needed, and finally take copious amounts of pictures of panels before removing them. Really looking forward to starting the front IFS assembly. The IFS LCAs are on the POL, but there should be plenty of other tasks to keep me busy for a while.

[JB in NOVA]

Congrats! Now the fun begins . . .

[v1-vr]

Congrats Chris
Hope your having as much fun as I'm having with your build.
Use to get into Spokane quite alot. Beautiful country you live in.

Sent you a PM

Dave

[cgundermann]

Congratulations Chris - big day, I can still relive every moment of when mine was delivered. You will catch yourself going out to the garage/shop multiple times during the day and just staring...

Just moved from WA after spending 26 years all over the great State. Spokane is awesome country!

Semper Fi,

Chris

[460.465USMC]

Congrats Chris
Hope your having as much fun as I'm having with your build.
Use to get into Spokane quite alot. Beautiful country you live in.

Sent you a PM

Dave

Thanks, Dave! I did enjoy the inventory process...in a sick sort of way. Guess I like counting/organizing things. Plus, great to see all of the parts firsthand.

My wife and I are both from this area. We love it for the beauty, four seasons, cost of living, etc.

Just replied to your PM.

[460.465USMC]

Congratulations Chris - big day, I can still relive every moment of when mine was delivered. You will catch yourself going out to the garage/shop multiple times during the day and just staring...

Just moved from WA after spending 26 years all over the great State. Spokane is awesome country!

Semper Fi,

Chris


Thanks, Chris! Yes, I may have peeked into the garage just a few times since Thursday. This is going to be a big challenge for me, but I'm up for it.

My wife and I love Spokane as well! The Marines took me around the country--both coasts, but we found ourselves back here in 1995 and can't seem to leave.

Semper Fi!

[460.465USMC]

After taking pictures to document fitment, panel accessibility, etc. with the body on, I took more photos to document the panels with the body off.

Then I suspended the body (my garage ceiling is 12.5'), preferring to preserve my floor space. I got this ratcheting pulley idea from Edwardb. As recommended, I placed a stick between dash and rear cockpit to keep body from distorting while suspended.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136714&d=1603557377

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136715&d=1603557386

F-panels: One interesting note is F5 removed the upper rear corner with a nice radius to allow room for wiring to pass through--see picture below. Saved me the step--nice little improvement!

I installed the F-panels per F5 instructions. I broke three 1/8" three drill bits before I even finished drilling the holes. They were pretty old anyway. I will be exploring other drill bit options before tackling the remaining 1,200 some odd holes. Also, before installing the F-panels I played around with the brushed aluminum look--a la Straversi and GTBradley and others, which is how I will be treating the few exposed panels that will be visible in the engine compartment.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136716&d=1603558863

A couple firsts (for me) on this step: first use of a rivet tool (hand operated), and first rivnut installation.

I'm installing 10-32 nutserts along the rear edge of the F-panels per Edwardb's recommendation, for a more serviceable attachment to the splash guards. I ordered a nutsert installation tool from McMaster-Carr. The hex socket head screws it came with were 10-24. Of course I didn't notice the thread incompatibility until I after the first one was installed. And not a great installation at that! The screw broke during installation. Doh!

Another first: used my new Dremel tool (birthday present last summer) to clearance a couple edges of the F-panels. Fun!

Since my front LCAs are on backorder, I began IRS assembly. It was not a comfortable idea to lop the ears off of brand new spindles! Out came my trusty hacksaw, and I slowly cut the ear off of each. I don't have any power tools that will do this. The cuts were certainly controlled! I left more material on the spindle than the F5 manual showed--followed Edwardb's lead again. Also, I wanted to check out Dupli-color clear gloss engine enamel, hence the blue painters tape.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136710&d=1603556179

Wheel studs out: preferring to follow the hydraulic press approach, I made a dozen phone calls to local shops. All but two wouldn't touch them because of liability concerns. Of the two that would, neither were available until next week sometime, and told me "$153 out the door", or "$50-$100 depending upon 30 or 60 minutes of labor". No thanks. I instead followed the F5 instructions and they popped out pretty easily--about two solid blows per stud. (The first thing I tried was my 4.5" bench vise. Used a cheater pipe to apply more torque than the vise handle alone could to squeeze the studs out. Abandoned that idea after no movement. Not willing to damage the gear drive of my bench vise. Perhaps a larger vise would provide/could handle the necessary torque.)

Replacement studs in: hand filed one side of each stud head to ensure adequate clearance to the center of the hub. Probably could have gotten away with not, but the originals were filed, so played it safe and followed suit. Two pictures below show the difference in clearance--both are the newly installed studs.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136711&d=1603556211

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136712&d=1603556220

As others have said, my neighborhood Ace is my new best friend. The cool thing is our youngest son works there, and is eligible for a sweet discount on certain things, like fasteners.

Now on to attach the hubs to the spindles, and IRS assembly. This is fun!

[460.465USMC]

I had the opportunity to take some vacation, so had a blast making some progress...slow but sure.

Up first was assembly of IFS components. I have most of the components in place as shown below, but not yet torqued. And, I just received my LCAs, so finishing the IFS will be up soon. The plastic bag over the upper ball joint is to keep from getting grease everywhere until I attach the remaining components. I also have my power steering rack in place--will update with picture once IFS is complete.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137024&d=1604261030

IFS: A couple things I encountered when assembling the components (not breaking any new ground here): (1) the first upper ball joint (Mevotech) went in a little tight, but I managed without any extra persuasion--the vise-tightening method worked well. The second upper ball joint threaded in more easily, so I switched to my pipe wrench, which was a bit more efficient for me than the vise-tightening method. (2) I replaced the MevoTech dust cover boots with Energy Suspension 5.13102G per numerous experiences/recommendations from this forum. (3) I won't be using the reluctor ring (AKA tone ring?), so I removed it from the hub with a hacksaw. Cut most of the way through, then tapped lightly with hammer and punch to finish breaking it apart.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137026&d=1604261328

IRS: Since I have all of the components I spent the majority of my time here. First, I prepped the parts that could see some corrosion/rust over time (front of center section, CV axles, rear hubs, front and rear sway bar brackets, and the front hubs) with POR-15. This is my first use of this product, and I think it turned out awesome! It's takes a good amount of prep. and time, but I think it will be worth it. It feels very durable. I used Duplicolor clear gloss engine enamel on the rear cover of the center section. I hit it with my drill and a wire wheel before applying.

Center section installed! Wow, is that ever a tight fit! I installed it solo--okay, my wife ran the floor jack at a particular dicey moment--using mostly straps and my floor jack. Knowing I would be solo I drilled out the front mount holes to 11/16" beforehand (slightly larger than the 5/8") to provide a bit of wiggle room to insert the front bolts. I got that idea from Edwardb's 20th anniv. build. Thanks, Paul! I think it helped.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137030&d=1604262613

The CV axles went in without any drama with a little persuasion from my rubber mallet. Here's the 1/8" gap the instructions say we should look for once the axles are fully seated.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137032&d=1604262724

I filled the ABS holes in the top of the spindle with silicone. Easy and effective IMHO. Here you can see the POR-15 on the hubs, and my yellow paint pen marks to keep track of which bolts are torqued.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137033&d=1604262820

IRS sway bar installation: The IRS sway bar turned out to be a lot more difficult than I expected. First, the welded mounts were too narrow for the rod ends plus spacers. (In fact, EVERY set of mounts for my IRS (UCAs, LCAs, toe adjuster) were too narrow). I spread the mounting tabs quite a bit, but still couldn't get the rods in with the spacers. I did not feel comfortable spreading the mounts any further. So, I ground off a bit of material from the longer spacers using my bench grinder. This allowed them to slide further into the welded mount tabs, so I could pass the bolt through. That worked. I discovered after torqueing the nuts the mounting tabs came back to parallel, which made me feel better.

The next issue was for the life of me I couldn't get the rod ends to fit on the outside of the sway bar as shown in the instructions. Maybe if I applied enough torque I could have forced both the DS and PS rods to the outside. However, the instructions say not to preload the sway bar. So, I ended up with the PS rods on the outside of the sway bar, and the DS rods on the inboard side--see picture below. I don't think this will affect the function of the sway bar, or be any less structurally sound. However, as a noob I very much welcome your input if you disagree, or have advice.

The good news is my rod ends came at the correct length, so I didn't have to cut them down to 0.5" of thread. I'm not too upset about NOT having to cut those given the numerous comments about their hardness, and my cutting tool is my trusty hacksaw.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137036&d=1604263004

Wrapping up the IRS install I copied Travis' (Fman) idea for the center section vent tube. Less than $8 from Amazon.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137035&d=1604262858

I have the rear Wilwood brakes mostly attached. Next up will be to finish those, then back to the IFS to finish assembling it.

I very much welcome anyone's input or suggestions! I'm very green at this whole thing, and could easily have messed up something(s) thus far.

[JB in NOVA]

Nice work! Looking good.

[460.465USMC]

Thanks, JB! I'm having a blast. I'm learning a lot each time I go into the garage to work on it.

[John Ibele]

Hey, just catching up with your build thread, and wanted to say great job so far. It's great to have experienced builders and all their expertise to draw from on the forum, but I think its equally important to see first time builders proving that this can be done, even if everything you're doing is a first-time experience. And I highly recommend doing a build thread, both to give back and for your own record. I think many more people benefit from the build threads than actually respond, and that's just fine.

I'll enjoy watching your progress! Cheers, -- John

[460.465USMC]

Thanks, John. Appreciate your comments. I'm not sure if anyone is reading mine, and seems a far stretch in my mind it could provide benefit to someone else. But, in my own experience of reading these threads (both experienced and first-timers) I found immense benefit from both types.

Please keep up your great documentation and sharing your ideas, and I'll keep reading on!

P.S. the "Rona" hit my house this week, so the best I can do right now is research my next build steps, and read excellent threads from you and others.

[BadAsp427]

Looking great... as for your IRS anti-sway bar, that one looks different than mine. As you can see from this photo, mine has a bend on the short legs that brings it to a different position. Where as yours looks to have straight short legs on each side. I don't think that it really matters, but thought I would share this.

137317

137318

[460.465USMC]

Looking great... as for your IRS anti-sway bar, that one looks different than mine. As you can see from this photo, mine has a bend on the short legs that brings it to a different position. Where as yours looks to have straight short legs on each side. I don't think that it really matters, but thought I would share this.

Thanks for chiming in on my IRS sway bar, Carl. Yours indeed has a different shape, an extra curve. I'm very hesitant to try to bend it with some hefty ratcheting straps, or other means.

Also, thanks for the PM on your cubby idea.

[BadAsp427]

Thanks for chiming in on my IRS sway bar, Carl. Yours indeed has a different shape, an extra curve. I'm very hesitant to try to bend it with some hefty ratcheting straps, or other means.

Also, thanks for the PM on your cubby idea.
I would not try to bend it. But I would contact Factory 5 and make sure that they sent you the right one.

[Hoooper]

You wont be able to bend it and get it to stay without either A LOT of force, or heat. Sway bars are made from heat treated spring steel so they are designed to bend and go right back to their original shape. FWIW I used the same sway bar BadAsp has, with my homebrew mount system on the IRS, and I have both rod ends inboard as that is the way the links were most vertical. I am not sure yours would work out that way with the different bar though.

[460.465USMC]

I like your idea, Carl. Think I will send a photo to F5 and have them confirm I indeed have the rear sway bar.

Hoooper, I appreciate you weighing in and comments as well.

[VAHokie]

Making great progress, Chris. Keep up the good work.

[460.465USMC]

Thanks, Tony! I've anxious to get back on the build. Been recovering for the last 1.5 weeks.

[JohnK]

Hey Chris. It's been a bit since I assembled my suspension but I seem to recall having a hard time installing both the front and the rear sway bars. Someone here suggested that when the suspension is at full droop everything is wonky because it's designed to line up properly at the proper ride height. You may want to try running the spring perches all the way down and then jacking up the knuckles so that the lower control arms are roughly parallel to the ground. Then see how the sway bar fits. FWIW - my rear sway bar looks similar to yours. Here's how it fits with the suspension in more of a "correct" position (i.e., not full droop).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?31167-Greek-Guys-Garage-Roadster-Build-9509-(fuel-system-is-complete-and-pressure-tested)&p=366613&viewfull=1#post366613

[460.465USMC]

I emailed F5 and they confirmed the IRS sway bar sent to me looks correct. Dan confirmed the heim joint should be mounted to the outside of the say bar. It's good to have that confirmed.

JohnK, I like your idea of getting the LCAs parallel, or closer to their actual ride height, to see if I can install the driver side rod end (heim joint) to the outside of the sway bar. The PS is already on the outside. I'll let you know what happens.

[460.465USMC]

After a couple weeks I was able to get back into the garage for a few hours of build time yesterday. It was nice!

I finished installing my rear Wilwood brakes. It was a fun process, and after a PM with Edwardb (thank you, Paul!) I think they are put together correctly.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137717&d=1605406301

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137718&d=1605406317

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=137719&d=1605406332

My flexible brake line attachments are loose until I can get to an auto parts store to pick up some thread sealer for the 1/8" - 27 NPT fitting that threads into the caliper (per Edwardb recommend).

Next up: pick up where I left off on front suspension install. My LCAs were POL and came in recently, so I now have everything I need to complete the front suspension.

P.S. Yes, I'm putting off the rear sway bar correction on the DS--move heim joint to outside of sway bar. I will get to it, but I need a little instant gratification on the front suspension. In my case, "instant" means many hours.

[Fman]

Nice work, you are cruising right along! Looking forward to watching your progress!

A few things that really helped with the rear IRS assembly was a 1/2" spreader rod, 5/8" bolt guide pin and a good dead blow hammer. Some of the alignment was not perfect and required some manipulation to get the bolts in place.

[460.465USMC]

It feels really good to have the IFS put together.

The upper ball joints (both sides) had 5/32" gap between the castle nut and cotter pin hole. I emailed F5 to see if that's okay, and they said the gap is fine. Huh? I'm no engineer, but that seems to defeat the point of the castle nut, so I filled the gap with spacers left over from my Wilwood brake kit. They had the same hole size and diameter. The spacers can be seen in the picture--see the red arrow.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138508&d=1606615973


The spindles slipped on easily. No persuasion or emory cloth required. I again followed Edwardb's idea of treating the back side of hubs w/POR-15. Then I torqued to 250 lb-ft. Thankfully, my trusty Craftsman torque wrench tops out at 250 lb-ft, so I didn't have to buy/borrow one.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138509&d=1606615995


The front sway bar went in with almost no difficulties. I had to remove a small amount of material from the bottom outside corners of the mount plates (both sides) to clear the 3/4" radiator support tubes, and the adjacent weld--see picture below. My bench grinder made quick work of it. Treated the mount plates to POR-15 beforehand, and touched up the edges where I removed material. Compared to the rear sway bar, the front was easy. The heim joints were already cut to the proper length (1/2" of threads), just like the rear sway bar.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138510&d=1606616014

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138511&d=1606616028


Tie rods: I followed Edwardb's recommendation to use Moog tie rods, as well as upgrade to Energy suspension boots (9.13101G). Hand-slap-to-the-head moment trying to figure out how to remove the Moog boots. Solution? Put tie rod in bench vise (wrapped in rag to avoid scratches), and tap bottom side of the boot with a large flat blade screw driver and rubber mallet. It pops right off. Word of advice: not that any of you would do this, but don't go after it with a utility knife. No, I won't be supplying a picture of the mangled boot. For me, this is what this build is all about: Make a mistake. Learn. Make another mistake. Learn. Repeat.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138513&d=1606616076


One item for follow-up after installing the tie rods is the wheels point dramatically toward the center of the car. More than what I would expect to see. Since the forum has repeatedly said the suspension changes quite a bit once it's resting on tires, I will back-burner this for now. But, it sure looks like the tie rod ends will require adjustment (best guess from a noob) even though I set dimension to 53 1/16" per F5 instructions. I realize the alignment is not set yet, I guess I just expected it to be closer at this point.

[460.465USMC]

IFS update continued:

I then installed the Wilwood brakes and flex lines. Assembly was pretty straight forward. I followed the Wilwood instructions (included with Wilwood kit). Made sure to install the rotors (calipers as well--although those are pretty obvious) on the correct side, as they are directional--see red circle around arrow on rotor below.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138515&d=1606616112


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138514&d=1606616094


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138516&d=1606616124


If you see any mistakes, or have recommendations, I welcome them!

Next up: perhaps the e-brake cables (pulleys are on order) and mock-up the e-brake? Then, maybe the Kleiner quick jack Mod, followed by gas tank install. I'm very open to recommendations if there is a better sequence to follow next. I'm pretty much following the F5 manual's build sequence.

[BadAsp427]

Your build is looking very nice. Awesome work! Judging by the fact that the metal clamps are still on your rubber boots on your steering rack, I’m guessing that you have not yet centered the rack and tie rods yet. Be sure to do so now while you can get to everything.

[Railroad]

Those black oxide coated fastners will rust ASAP. By the quality of your work, I think you would want to avoid the rust. I bought a small can of Rustoleum black and coated them while accessible.
I noticed you did not trim your upper control arm adjustment sleeves. I did not trim mine either.
My max caster was 6.9 degrees. It seems some need trimming and some do not.
I would trim mine, if I had the opportunity.
Your tie rod ends will also rust. I used SharkHide on mine. Natural finish and no rust.
I always enjoy seeing the clean assembly of parts.

[jiriza84641]

MArine, build is looking good, keep up the strong work.

[460.465USMC]

Your build is looking very nice. Awesome work! Judging by the fact that the metal clamps are still on your rubber boots on your steering rack, I’m guessing that you have not yet centered the rack and tie rods yet. Be sure to do so now while you can get to everything.

Hi Carl. No, I haven't centered the steering rack. I have this nice set of instructions bookmarked by "karlos":

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?19175-Steering-Rack-Install-Setup-Procedure&p=215142&viewfull=1#post215142

I think I will take your suggestion and put it high on my To Do list. I'm not sure what you mean by "metal clamps are still on your rubber boots on your steering rack". Are those removed during the centering process? Although the instructions above are good, I may reach out to you with a PM on this topic.

Thanks for your input!

[460.465USMC]

Those black oxide coated fastners will rust ASAP. By the quality of your work, I think you would want to avoid the rust. I bought a small can of Rustoleum black and coated them while accessible.
I noticed you did not trim your upper control arm adjustment sleeves. I did not trim mine either.
My max caster was 6.9 degrees. It seems some need trimming and some do not.
I would trim mine, if I had the opportunity.
Your tie rod ends will also rust. I used SharkHide on mine. Natural finish and no rust.
I always enjoy seeing the clean assembly of parts.

Hi Railroad. Great tip on the black oxide fasteners. I didn't even think of that. I will do the same and coat them, as well as the tie rods.

Yes, I've read about the UCA trimming. I'm a little on the fence about it, so figured I would take my chances and start with full length. I may regret that.

Thanks for your review and suggestions! Very helpful.

[460.465USMC]

Thanks for the encouragement, Jiriza84641! I'm having a blast! Sometimes a little frustrating, but mostly rewarding.

[BadAsp427]

Hi Carl. No, I haven't centered the steering rack. I have this nice set of instructions bookmarked by "karlos":

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?19175-Steering-Rack-Install-Setup-Procedure&p=215142&viewfull=1#post215142

I think I will take your suggestion and put it high on my To Do list. I'm not sure what you mean by "metal clamps are still on your rubber boots on your steering rack". Are those removed during the centering process? Although the instructions above are good, I may reach out to you with a PM on this topic.

Thanks for your input!

Yup, you will have to remove those clamps... Many are heavy duty zip ties, you will most likely find this is the easiest way to replace those when you are doing this adjustment. The instruction that you have are very detailed and the ones that I used as well.

[460.465USMC]

Won a minor battle today with my rear sway bar. During initial installation, I couldn't get the heim joints to install on the outside of the sway bar on both sides. I could get one side, but not the other. It turns out I didn't have the sway bar as centered as I should have. I missed that detail.

The fix: I loosened the bolts on the heim joints, as well as the socket head bolts on the mounting clamps. This allowed me to tap the sway bar toward the passenger side just enough to get the heim joints attached per the instructions.

Phew! It feels good to get this corrected. This demonstrates to me the value of stepping away from a particular installation step to clear my head, then come back later with a fresh perspective.

I received some good tips from the forum on how to correct (thanks again JohnK), but it turned out to simply be a case of operator error.

View of corrected sway bar showing heim joints on outside on both sides.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138781&d=1607217165

Close-up of DS installation now corrected.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138782&d=1607217179

On an even more minor note, I also riveted and applied silicone to the DS side front footbox panel--Wilwood pedal box version that's packed inside the pedal box. Baby steps! Just like Bill Murray in the movie "What About Bob?".

BTW: that metal piece the front panel attaches to is thick (3/16"). Wow! Broke a new Cobalt drill bit, and put some good wear on a second. Hopefully, not too many other panels require drilling through 3/16" thick metal.

[460.465USMC]

Last Friday was a fun day. I picked up my drivetrain from Central Pro Transport! Of course it was snowing as the forklift loaded it on the trailer, and for the 30 minute trip home. I bought my Coyote Gen 3 crate and TKO600 from Forte. He did a good job wrapping it, so none of the slush/snow/water penetrated the shipping crate on the way home.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139618&d=1608513159


Unfortunately, a forklift tangled with the crate somewhere along the way. However, the best I can tell is the damage is limited to a nice crease in the bottom of the oil filter. Fortunately, I don't see any other damage.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139619&d=1608513170


It was really good to get it home safe and in the garage.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139620&d=1608513191


Tearing the crate apart was a job. Must have been a thousand nails/staples holding it together. Glad to have it so secure though. I used my four-post lift to hoist the drivetrain off of my trailer. I'm flying solo; it went pretty well. No damage to the drivetrain (or to me!).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139621&d=1608513213


Here's the hoist attachment I used from Forte. It attaches to the bottom studs below cylinders 3 and 7. It is a bit pricey at $95, but very solid and it will get some use before I'm done. He offered to refund if I ship it back, but I think it will be nice to have something on-hand in the long run.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139622&d=1608513228


It's a beautiful thing! Great to see the drivetrain in its new home. I had the HF wheel dollies on-hand, and they should work well to move the drivetrain around my garage as needed. They are rated at 1,500 lbs. each.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139623&d=1608513261


My SS may now suffer from garage inadequacy as its LT1 is a mere 455 HP, while the Gen 3 Coyote is 460 HP. The LT1 6.2L handily wins the torque side of the argument at 455 lb-ft. :p Regardless, this Coyote motor is going to be way more than enough to scoot the light Roadster around, and put big smiles on my face!

The bent shifter I also purchased from Forte. I will be flipping the rear shift position cover 180 deg., which moves the shifter forward about 2.5". The bent shifter moves it forward another another 2". That will put it very close to the mid-shift position. If I want it even a little further forward, then I'll use a small bracket at the base. I got this idea from Wareaglescott's build.

[460.465USMC]

I also registered the TKO600 with Tremec, and they will sending me a free black resin shift knob. White resin shift knob is also available.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139627&d=1608515554


How much lumber does it take to crate at Gen 3/TKO600? About this much--not counting the bottom pallet.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139625&d=1608513324


I wasn't planning to worry much about the Gen 3 flying saucer engine cover at this early stage. It so happened Forte did not order the cover with my Gen 3 crate. I was surprised not to see it included, so I asked him where it was. He said it's an add-on, like an accessory I guess (~$125). He then mentioned he can supply the Gen 1 covers, which look much better than the stock Gen 3 cover. Sold! One thing to check off my list. I will probably have the painter add some body color along the parallel grooves. Forte sent me an example picture.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139626&d=1608513351

[Fman]

Nice! That engine is some motivation to keep your build going! Congrats on the engine those Coyotes are legit.

[JB in NOVA]

Impressive! And it looks like you have a nice set up to drop it in when the time comes. I look forward to following your progress.

[John Ibele]

Fun to have that power plant in house and ready to go, isn't it! For a Chevy guy, you sure made a nice choice :) Nice progress you're making.

[bldr.rob]

Congrats on getting the power plant in! That's going to be a fun ride!

[460.465USMC]

Maybe this is a sign I should close down the garage for the evening?

I'm installing the pedal box, and can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. The rear pedal box bracket is too high. The mounting tabs of the rear bracket are resting on the 3/4" as they should so I can mark the spots to drill. As best I can tell, I have the forward bracket mounted correctly to the Wilwood pedal assembly, and to the front of the footbox--the holes only line up one way. The Wilwood assembly came partially assembled: I haven't changed it--I'm assuming it's correct.

Am I having a stupid attack here, or do I need to mount the Wilwood pedal assembly on the top side of the forward bracket? This would raise the pedal assembly 16 MM, the exact amount the rear bracket sits above. However, the F5 instructions clearly say the forward bracket is mounted to the bottom side of the pedal assembly.

Does anyone have some wisdom for me? (Yes, I know you can't fix stupid! :D).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139955&d=1609125397


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139956&d=1609125424

[Fman]

Chris, are you saying the bracket will not align with studs because it is hitting on something not allowing you to drill the mounting hole in the lower channel? A little hard to tell in the pics... It looks like you have the forward section mounted properly.

This is how I mounted mine, so hopefully this will give you some reference...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128051&d=1589128628

[JohnK]

Chris, I think you're on the right track and closer than you think. The pedal assembly looks like it's correctly mounted to the forward bracket, and the forward bracket looks correctly mounted to the firewall. I think the rear bracket looks high because the 3/4" tubes slope down as they go forward, so as that rear bracket moves forward to meet the pedal assembly it should drop into the right position. Here's what mine looks like, in case it helps.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134208&d=1598303643

[egchewy79]

Chris, I think you're on the right track and closer than you think. The pedal assembly looks like it's correctly mounted to the forward bracket, and the forward bracket looks correctly mounted to the firewall. I think the rear bracket looks high because the 3/4" tubes slope down as they go forward, so as that rear bracket moves forward to meet the pedal assembly it should drop into the right position. Here's what mine looks like, in case it helps.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134208&d=1598303643

what he said ^^^.
try removing the front bracket from the footbox wall, attaching the rear bracket to the pedal box assembly, and then sliding the entire unit into place.

[460.465USMC]

Chris, are you saying the bracket will not align with studs because it is hitting on something not allowing you to drill the mounting hole in the lower channel? A little hard to tell in the pics... It looks like you have the forward section mounted properly.

Travis, thanks for the reference picture. Very helpful!


Chris, I think you're on the right track and closer than you think. The pedal assembly looks like it's correctly mounted to the forward bracket, and the forward bracket looks correctly mounted to the firewall. I think the rear bracket looks high because the 3/4" tubes slope down as they go forward, so as that rear bracket moves forward to meet the pedal assembly it should drop into the right position. Here's what mine looks like, in case it helps.

Bingo, John! I just couldn't "see" it last night. I had to loosen the forward mounting bracket, which gave enough wiggle to slide the rear bracket into position. Sure enough, with them together the rear bracket mounting tabs slid right into position, resting on the 3/4" tube so I could mark for drilling. Thanks so much!


what he said ^^^.
try removing the front bracket from the footbox wall, attaching the rear bracket to the pedal box assembly, and then sliding the entire unit into place.

Hi Egchewy79, thanks for chiming in. Between you and John I was able to get the rear bracket on and drilled. Onward!

In hindsight I think the F5 instructions were basically telling me to do the above. Taking a break and getting the forum's knowledge was just the thing I needed to move forward. Thanks again, Gents!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139968&d=1609186394

[egchewy79]

chris, while you're at it, you may want to consider removing the bracket and hitting it w/ some rattle can paint since it is bare metal. I neglected to do that to my ebrake handle until after i had it installed and had to spray it while attached to the bracket in the car.

[460.465USMC]

chris, while you're at it, you may want to consider removing the bracket and hitting it w/ some rattle can paint since it is bare metal. I neglected to do that to my ebrake handle until after i had it installed and had to spray it while attached to the bracket in the car.

Good call, egchewy79. I'm in the process of setting up a little oven to try my hand at powder coating many of the bits and brackets like these. My powder gun isn't in yet, so these are getting the rattle can treatment.

[460.465USMC]

I installed the KRC power steering pump/pulley and belt. It was a straight forward and pretty easy process--even for me! Had to wiggle/maneuver the pump a bit when installing the belt. The upper weld on the pump (facing engine) didn't allow it to easily rotate into position. Not a big issue and done now.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140119&d=1609461788


Over the years I have saved misc. doo-dads. Why? Who knows. As long as it's relatively small and seems like it could be reusable. Take for instance the various size caps I had in a hardware bin. Used eight of them to cap the various openings on the Coyote. Call it a sickness or genius (can I choose genius? :p), but these will protect until I install the drivetrain. Forte used duct tape on many of these, including the eight exhaust ports. I know what happens if you leave duct tape in place too long, so I removed it and stuffed in clean paper towels (into the exhaust ports).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140120&d=1609461818


Followed the F5 instructions to assemble the lower steering shaft and knuckles.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140121&d=1609461840


Installed flange bearing on the inside of the footbox per recommendation of forum for adjustability. Like others who've done this, I had to shave flat the top portion of the flange bearing to provide clearance for the lower right mounting hole of the pedal box rear bracket. Bench grinder was just the ticket.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140122&d=1609461894


No shims required beneath the pillow block on my setup. I have about 3/16" clearance between the shaft and 2" square tube. The clearance is a bit blurry, but I think you can get the idea.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140126&d=1609463051


And finally, the pedal box is in for the final time (hopefully). I guessed on the amount to thread in the 90 deg. brake line adapters. There's still a couple threads showing, but I didn't want to chance it by threading in too far. Don't look too closely at the rattle can paint job on the forward and rear brackets. Oof! Been a long time since I've used an aerosol can, and boy does it show. (Thanks again for the reminder to coat these, egchewy79). Oh well, I think this area will be out of site in the end.

Thanks again to JohnK, Fman, and egchewy79 for helping me figure out the rear pedal box bracket.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140123&d=1609462019

Nothing new or too exciting to show, but I'm having a blast!

[Fman]

While you are at it might want to confirm you have the correct MC for your hydraulic clutch. It should be a 13/16 (stamped .81 on the side). I am swapping mine out this week because I was sent the wrong MC. Just something to confirm before you fill up your system.

[460.465USMC]

This wasn't even on my radar, Travis. First I've heard of it. I will check mine today. Thanks for the tip! Much better to do now than later, as you mentioned.

[460.465USMC]

Here is a view of the Forte bend shift handle in combination with the rear cover/handle swapped 180 deg. (moves the handle forward ~2.75"). This is a view of it in the Neutral gear position. If I want it another inch or so forward, I will copy Wareaglescott and add an extension piece at the bottom (see his build, post #140). Obviously, the "right" way would be to complete the TKO600 mid-shift modification, but I think his workaround will be as effective, and much easier/cheaper. Of course, I won't know for certain until I'm actually driving it. FWIW, in case this is helpful to anyone.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140133&d=1609522786


I mentioned before I stumbled upon an engine cover solution from Forte that greatly improves (IMHO) the Gen 3 flying saucer look. I'm a long ways away from worrying about eye candy, but this was an obvious solution that works for me, so I jumped on it. Again, since I would have had to buy the Gen 3 cover anyway (~$125), for a few extra bucks I bought Forte's modified version of a Gen 1 cover. It even has shiny plastic-chromie-looking eye candy. Ooooooh! :)

He uses the same OEM rubber grommet-like base that pops into the four holes on top of the motor. These are what the Gen 3 cover would normally pop into, and held in place as a friction fit. The one on the bottom is one I pulled from the motor to show they are the same. He supplies the aluminum spacer, fender washer, and wing nut to secure the cover to the same four holes. Pretty clever, if you ask me!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140136&d=1609523098


Here you can see the four rubber "grommets" (I'm not sure of the correct term) as they come from Ford. The Gen 3 cover pops right into these.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140135&d=1609523078


Here you can see one removed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140134&d=1609523003


Now with the Forte modified grommets installed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140137&d=1609523173


Side view of the same, and with the aluminum provided spacers in place.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140138&d=1609523192

[460.465USMC]

And with the Gen 1 cover secured in place. (I may cut off some of the extra screw length.)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140139&d=1609523213


Some additional views to show fitment.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140141&d=1609523280

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140142&d=1609523326

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140140&d=1609523231

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140143&d=1609523342

This could be old news to the forum, but posting just in case it's useful to someone.

[460.465USMC]

I was just chatting with my brother-in-law recently about how rare it is to find good customer service nowadays. Well, I was pleasantly surprised yesterday when I called McMaster-Carr to return a couple things. An actual human being answered the phone within two rings. I asked about their return process, because I ordered the wrong thread count on the hardware for the Kleiner quick jack mod. He offered to credit me for the couplers and socket head bolts (don't bother to return the wrong ones), and said the replacements will arrive Thursday this week. Wow! He made it easy, and it was done in two minutes. I'm impressed! I so appreciate good customer service. I will likely be a McMaster-Carr customer for life--and I of course like their hardware as well. Thanks to Edwardb for the tip on these guys!

I've also experienced good customer service from Factory Five, Forte, and Russ Thompson. Thanks vendors!

[toadster]

that's pretty cool! that's the Gen1 cover - correct? I think 2011-2014?

140424

2015-2017 - no chrome
140423

and of course Gen3 2018+ as the flying saucer

140425

[460.465USMC]

Yes, it's the Gen 1 cover. It does come with the valve covers as shown in your picture, but I don't see any way to make those fit.

[toadster]

Yes, it's the Gen 1 cover. It does come with the valve covers as shown in your picture, but I don't see any way to make those fit.

easy sell on ebay, or craiglist - lots of mustang guys like to paint them so this will save them some time with an extra set ;)

[460.465USMC]

Here's another one I must be looking at from the wrong angle. I'm trying to mock up the Coyote accelerator pedal, but scratching my head as to why the bracket that attaches to the frame seems like the upper portion should have been bent the other way. If it were, then it seems everything (the mounting holes, clearance for the 3/4"' tube, and even the slight angle of the lowest mounting hole/tab is bent the correct direction) would line up perfectly. Can someone please straighten me out on this one?

Picture of bracket as installed in the F5 instruction manual:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140588&d=1610330696


Next to the DBW Coyote pedal the bracket's mounting holes are on the wrong side of the bracket. What am I missing?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140573&d=1610329788

[edwardb]

Bent backwards. It happens. Call FFR and they should replace it.

[460.465USMC]

Bent backwards. It happens. Call FFR and they should replace it.

Phew! Thought I was losing it last night. Thanks, Paul!

[460.465USMC]

Making some progress....baby steps.

Fuel tank is installed. A few things I had to work through:

I left all of the strap hardware loose for now.
I had to "adjust" the front mount 3/4" tubes between 1/8" to 1/4" to keep them away from the sides of the tank. Now they are flush with the horizontal lip around the perimeter.
Discovered the 3/8" black socket head bolt would not slide into the rear strap openings. I wasn't interested in hogging out the painted openings with a drill, file, or other means (not looking to expose metal), so off to the hardware store for 5/16" x 2" SS bolts.
Following recommendation of this forum I picked up the Ford OEM fuel neck gasket, as many have found the kit supplied gasket leaks: F4ZZ-9072-DA, ~$30 on Amazon. Easy to do now. See third picture below.
I liked Edwardb's approach of verifying the fuel sender operation now (before installation). Measured 19 ohms(empty) and ranges up to max of 162 ohms (full).
The ubiquitous Kleiner rear quick jack mod: I finally got the right hardware. I wanted 7/16"-14 to match the hardware from the kit. I'm assuming I will still use the rest of the kit supplied hardware? Attempted to follow Edwardb by measuring the vertical and horizontal distances between the rear quick jack holes, so the couplers will line up when the time comes. It's a great idea, no doubt, but I couldn't figure out how to easily transfer my measurements to the couplers without a template. So, I centered each in its respective hole, and hope (naively) they are reasonably close once the body goes on.



I thought I could be clever and avoid getting the 2.5" x 3/8" socket head bolts for the front tank straps. Nope. The 2" versions that come with the kit are just too short to get the nut threaded (at least for me). It was a bona-fide saga, and cost me some time. Oh well. Off to the hardware store...again.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140615&d=1610421980


Fuel tank is in (temporarily until I install the Russ Thompson drop box).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140613&d=1610421957


Ford OEM gasket is on the left. Kit supplied gasket on the right.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140616&d=1610423449


Verified with F5 the fuel flow of the kit supplied fuel filter is sufficient for the Gen 3 Coyote. They say it's fine. I installed it in what seems to be a popular location. It should provide ease of access in case of future maintenance.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140614&d=1610421971


Firewall:

Made my first visit to my local metal supplier, and purchased a 48" x 16" scrap piece of 0.090 aluminum for $30. I wanted a more robust firewall. Cut it out using my jigsaw and a 12 TPI blade. Wow! This thing is WAY more stout than the 0.040 that came with the kit. I don't think it needs the vertical support bracket treatment many give the 0.040 firewall, but I may attempt to make one anyway just to see if I can make a bracket. Something I'm excited to try.
As I mentioned previously I'm not going to PC my panels. I actually like the look of the brushed aluminum (in what little areas it can be seen), and this is an area I can save a few shekels without losing any functionality. The first I saw of this was Straversi's build--thanks, Steve! I have PLENTY of other areas to upgrade and spend my shekels. Used the ScotchBrite and Dupli-Color Clear Ceramic engine enamel combination on the front side of the firewall (thanks for the idea, GTBradley!). It's hard to tell it's been treated in this picture. It has some streaks/stripes. Hopefully, I'll do better on my next one. I don't think much of this one can be seen after the Coyote and body are in place, so a good one on which to cut my teeth.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140617&d=1610423532

Gee whiz! I didn't intend to have such a lengthy post here, as I really haven't done much.

[JB in NOVA]

Looking good! Nice work on that firewall.

[Fman]

That firewall looks great! Are you planning on doing a drop trunk mod? Asking because if yes that fuel tank will need to come back out. I think I had to remove mine a couple times after installing.

[460.465USMC]

That firewall looks great! Are you planning on doing a drop trunk mod? Asking because if yes that fuel tank will need to come back out. I think I had to remove mine a couple times after installing.

Hi Travis. I have a trunk box coming from Russ Thompson this week. I don't want to tell you how many times I've already dropped the tank. That's why I left the nuts loose for now. Saving the lock nuts until final assembly. Thanks for the heads-up!

[jiriza84641]

Looking Good Marine.

[460.465USMC]

I'm not much of a sticker guy, but found a good home for one of my F5 stickers.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140741&d=1610683541


It may or may not see ice with frequent pours of Bulleit. :cool: The insulated cup doesn't sweat. Handy. Only after garage time is over in the evenings, of course. ;) It becomes a good conversation starter when friends and family are over: "Hey, want to check out my garage"?

Now, back to building...

[Ray]

...Finally...I must be honest up front and say I'm a Chevy guy at heart. I'm a huge fan of pretty much anything from the 60's (Chevy II/Nova, Chevelle, bubble tops, Camaros, etc.), and Tri-Fives. I like modern Chevrolet muscle as well. My forum name also references my Chevy roots from the HP/Torque in a C7 I used to own; the USMC reference is from my five years in the Marines as an avionics technician...

140746

Ray

[460.465USMC]

That's funny, Ray! I know I'm a bit of an odd duck. But, these Roadsters are so dang cool it was too tempting! Having a blast so far!

[460.465USMC]

Thought I'd provide a quick note my POL is fully received. The final pieces I received yesterday: radiator, 90 deg. silicone tube, and 4" mass air flow tube. I pulled the radiator out of the box, and it looks like a solid unit. As far as timelines go, I ordered my complete kit in early July, received it Oct. 15, and POL fully received yesterday. Not complaining, just detailing here in case it's a useful point of reference for someone.

In the meantime, I ordered and received the Russ Thompson drop trunk, and Russ Thompson turn signal. Looking forward to installing the trunk box in the not so distant future.

I'm making good (but slow!) progress on my PS footbox. I'm painting the bottom side horizontals (e.g. bottom side of floor box) with Rustoleum enamel, but not happy with the results. Not only does the Satin (nor Matte) Rustoleum not match the powder coat of the frame, but the roller marks from the foam roller I'm using really stand out! Uff da! Not sure what I'm going to do about this. (This was all triggered after thinking more about how I probably won't be happy about exposed aluminum panels underneath the car. I decided I wanted to coat these exposed surfaces myself for a more finished look). I keep telling myself it's only the underside of the car, which I believe is mostly not visible unless one is....well, underneath the car.

I'm also installing Thermo Tec sound/heat shield to the footbox panels (and the rest of the cockpit) while the panels are still loose. I should probably install the carpet pieces now as well, but probably won't.

Several things progressing in parallel (slowly), but nothing picture worthy to share.

I always welcome suggestions and advise from the forum!

[John Ibele]

This is the road-facing side of the bottom footbox panel, right? How about just roughing up the panel and painting on some bed liner with a chip brush? Should look good and stay looking good after some driving.

[460.465USMC]

That's an interesting idea, John. Hadn't considered a textured finish, but it would eliminate brush and/or roller lines/marks. I'm going to coat the underside of the body anyway with U-Pol Raptor or Duplicolor Bed Armor, so maybe I buy it now and treat the exposed portions of the underside panels? Not familiar with a "chip" brush. I'll have to research that.

Thanks for your suggestion!

[John Ibele]

Disposable brush :)

[460.465USMC]

Ah! A very technical tool, indeed! :) Thanks, John. Looks only a couple bucks at the hardware store. Going to give your idea serious consideration. Thanks again!

[460.465USMC]

I finally have something to show in the way of progress on panels. I'll spare you the saga of the various trial-and-errors along the way. Hopefully, this will work out well for what I'm looking for.

As I mentioned previously, I'm going with the brushed aluminum finish for the panels that will be exposed in the engine bay. Getting the Dupli-color ceramic to dry in my 60 degree garage with 50% humidity has proved challenging. So, I did what any guy would do and moved the panels inside the house for drying. Yes, I have an amazing wife of almost 30 years...no, I didn't ask her ahead of time (easier to ask for forgiveness than permission, right? :D).

Here are the side footbox panels drying in the mud room closet. (The black panels on the left are PS and DS footbox lowers. This was taken when I was trialing-but-mostly-erroring on different coatings for panels that will be visible when underneath the car looking up).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141729&d=1612058719


Poor man's paint booth in the garage. Got this idea from another forum member.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141728&d=1612058705


Panels drying in the living room next to the wood stove.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141826&d=1612152510


This is the product I used to coat the bottom side of floors, footboxes, upper/lower trunk, and any others I think will be visible when looking up from underneath the car. Thanks for the suggestion, John Ibele.
Happened to catch a nice sale at a local auto parts store. The kit came with roller, brush, and pan as well. I have most of a gallon left, and will use it to coat the underside of the fiberglass body. Water clean-up and no smell. Especially helpful when applying in the closed garage (it's 30 deg. outside!) and drying inside the house!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141727&d=1612058693


Concerned about keeping a smooth surface for silicone where the panel surfaces contact the frame, I put down painter's tape. This example is the upper trunk floor.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141821&d=1612152422


And here's what the Dupli-color Bed Armor product looks like up close (PS footbox floor panel). I put on three coats.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141825&d=1612152491


Though I certainly saved some money by not powder coating, it was a HUGE time investment. (I'm referring to the panels that are getting Bed Armor).

[460.465USMC]

I'm using Thermo-Tec throughout the footboxes and cockpit. I found a way to get it to fit snuggly around the collapsed side of the rivets (I'm installing them so the flat side is visible in the engine bay--looks better to me this way). Drilled a slightly oversized hole in a piece of scrap wood, laid the Thermo-Tec over the hole in the wood, then used a sharp punch to create a hole just the right size to match the collapsed rivet. Should provide a good seal.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141824&d=1612152471


This is how it looks installed. Also, found a socket slightly larger than the collapsed rivet to even further persuade the Thermo-Tec to seal around the rivet. Had trouble getting my phone to focus, but I think you get the idea.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141820&d=1612152407


Passenger side footbox installed! (Difficult to keep the rivet tool from scratching my finished ceramic paint, but I'm getting better).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141823&d=1612152453


I installed the Thermo-Tec before assembling the panels. Decided to do this after reading from several forum members about the contortion exercises if installing the material after the panels are in place. (Though I will undoubtedly face similar contortion challenges when I install the carpet later on).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141822&d=1612152436

Looking forward to finishing the PS floor and rest of cockpit panels.

Always welcome recommendations and suggestions from the forum!

[John Ibele]

Hey Chris - great progress. Fun to see it coming together. I get your point in relation to the huge time sink involved in doing ... anything ... with the panels, other than taking them to a powder coater. The only DIY option I would consider doing, after spending many hours with hammer tone paint, would be to use SharkHide and call it good.

Footboxes ... looking good. You're going to plug any holes you see before carpet, right? I'm sure you know, but just in case (and seeing the gap around the round frame exiting the footbox) I can't help mentioning ... you're gonna plug all gaps in the footboxes and seal them up tight, right? Those gaps are there on every car, but need to be completely sealed to prevent any air from the engine bay getting into your footbox. Otherwise all your Thermo-Tec will be for naught :rolleyes:.

[460.465USMC]

Footboxes ... looking good. You're going to plug any holes you see before carpet, right? I'm sure you know, but just in case (and seeing the gap around the round frame exiting the footbox) I can't help mentioning ... you're gonna plug all gaps in the footboxes and seal them up tight, right? Those gaps are there on every car, but need to be completely sealed to prevent any air from the engine bay getting into your footbox. Otherwise all your Thermo-Tec will be for naught :rolleyes:.

Hi John. Thanks for mentioning the gaps in the footbox. Yes, I plan to seal these, but may need to do some more research on the best solution, especially for the largest gap around the two inch round tube. What do you recommend?

For the smaller gap around the 4" main chassis rail I was going to use silicone once I have the PS floor in place. Is that a good choice to stop the heat? That gap is at most 1/8" at its widest point.

[John Ibele]

Hey Chris, I haven't done much looking around myself, but I think most folks have done either aluminum patches, sealant, or aluminum foil tape. For the aluminum patch, could do riveted (if in an area where its not going to show in the engine compartment), or glue it in place. I'll probably do the latter for the big spot that shows in your picture, stuck in place with either silicone or 3M 77. For the smaller gaps I think silicone is just fine. Gasket maker is another option, probably more expensive but dries flat dark gray or black, if its going to show at all.

[Papa]

Hi John. Thanks for mentioning the gaps in the footbox. Yes, I plan to seal these, but may need to do some more research on the best solution, especially for the largest gap around the two inch round tube. What do you recommend?

For the smaller gap around the 4" main chassis rail I was going to use silicone once I have the PS floor in place. Is that a good choice to stop the heat? That gap is at most 1/8" at its widest point.

I did what was described by John and used aluminum patches siliconed in for the big gaps and silicone for the small gaps.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84555&d=1524421186

Then did the insulation:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84568&d=1524421720

And finally, all covered in carpet:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=95880&d=1540080964

[460.465USMC]

I did what was described by John and used aluminum patches siliconed in for the big gaps and silicone for the small gaps.

Then did the insulation.

Really appreciate you weighing in, Dave! Your pictures are very helpful--I'm a visual guy! Looks like I'll need to scrape off some Thermo-Tec and silicone in a patch for the large gap around the 2" tube. I also like your idea of aluminum tape along the seams. Is that off-the-shelf tape like what's used in HVAC ducting? I'm pretty sure I have a roll of it I've been hanging on to for far too long! Time to put it to good use.

Question: did you guys rivet or silicone along the lower area of the outer footbox panel--see red arrows in picture below? Or, is this left as is, i.e. no rivets or silicone. The manual doesn't call for rivets or silicone here.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141969&d=1612407506


P.S. Dave, I remember your comment about chestnuts roasting on an open fire--reference to heat coming in from a gap somewhere in your DS footbox. Still makes me chuckle. :D Sounds like one can't be too careful to get all the gaps/seams sealed up tight.

[Papa]

Chris,

The tape is exactly what you'll find in the HVAC isle of your favorite home improvement store, nothing special about it at all. It's probably not really needed, but I like to go a little beyond sometimes and it's easy to apply, so why not. On the lower edge of the foot box, I just siliconed it and didn't put any rivets in as I was concerned about trying to hit the right spot every time and once all the other edges are riveted in, the panel is solid and water tight with the silicone.

Man that June drive was HOT! A couple of pieces of AC insulation to fill in the gaps at the top of the driver's foot box and it's much better now.

Keep up the great work! Your build is looking really nice.

Dave

[jiriza84641]

[QUOTE=460.465USMC;444035]Really appreciate you weighing in, Dave! Your pictures are very helpful--I'm a visual guy! Looks like I'll need to scrape off some Thermo-Tec and silicone in a patch for the large gap around the 2" tube. I also like your idea of aluminum tape along the seams. Is that off-the-shelf tape like what's used in HVAC ducting? I'm pretty sure I have a roll of it I've been hanging on to for far too long! Time to put it to good use.

Question: did you guys rivet or silicone along the lower area of the outer footbox panel--see red arrows in picture below? Or, is this left as is, i.e. no rivets or silicone. The manual doesn't call for rivets or silicone here.




https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141969&d=1612407506


P.S. Dave, I remember your comment about chestnuts roasting on an open fire--reference to heat coming in from a gap somewhere in your DS footbox. Still makes me chuckle. :D Sounds like one can't be too careful to get all the gaps/seams sealed up tight.[/QUOTE

I riveted mine, just need to do the DS foot box.

[460.465USMC]

I made a patch out of the original DS FB front panel that won't get used in my build. This is probably my first "fabrication"--I use that term very loosely--of the build. Spent more time on it than I care to admit. It does however, reduce the huge gap around the PS 1.5" curved tube. The remaining 1/16" to 1/8" I filled with silicone. By the time I was done hacking up this patch, the scratches were many and deep. Gave it the brushed/ceramic treatment for good measure anyway. I'm hoping this area isn't very visible once the body is and and engine in place.

After silicone fill.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142957&d=1613708634

Before silicone fill.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142943&d=1613706793


Since I'm working on the cockpit panels I figured it was a good time to install the Edwardb E-brake pulley mod. I bought the same ones from Amazon I saw Mark Eaton pick up, as they advertise weather resistance.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142940&d=1613706505

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142939&d=1613706389


After the PS footbox build, and some cockpit panel progress I know how to speak fluent Cleco.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142944&d=1613706812

Question: what is a good way to close this horizontal gap in the DS footbox, between the bottom of the inner wall and the 4" main chassis tube? At current mock-up it's a 1/4" gap, which seems a bit too much for silicone. On the other hand, making a fill-in piece doesn't seem like a great idea either. What did you guys do?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142945&d=1613706827


From the engine bay looking toward the DS footbox.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142946&d=1613706852

[edwardb]

Question: what is a good way to close this horizontal gap in the DS footbox, between the bottom of the inner wall and the 4" main chassis tube? At current mock-up it's a 1/4" gap, which seems a bit too much for silicone. On the other hand, making a fill-in piece doesn't seem like a great idea either. What did you guys do?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142945&d=1613706827

From the engine bay looking toward the DS footbox.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142946&d=1613706852

That gap does seem a little wider than I've experienced. If you're positive the panel(s) are properly positioned and it's not going to get any better, probably going to need some fill pieces from aluminum. I've seen some guys do that. Or you might get away with a couple layers of aluminum tape. The ones I've done were sitting down more on the tube and I used a bead of structural epoxy on each side.

Just a constructive hint FWIW. I'd recommend trying to clean up the silicone a little better than showing in the pictures. Once you place the panel and pull the rivets, try to get all the squeeze-out cleaned up. That stuff is nasty and not much is going to stick to it. Plus just looks neater.

[mbisett]

I am glad to have found this build post. I will be following your build to gain allot more understanding of the processes, guidance and tips you are learning.. My build is schedule for later this year. Keep up the great documentation!

[460.465USMC]

That gap does seem a little wider than I've experienced. If you're positive the panel(s) are properly positioned and it's not going to get any better, probably going to need some fill pieces from aluminum. I've seen some guys do that. Or you might get away with a couple layers of aluminum tape. The ones I've done were sitting down more on the tube and I used a bead of structural epoxy on each side.

Just a constructive hint FWIW. I'd recommend trying to clean up the silicone a little better than showing in the pictures. Once you place the panel and pull the rivets, try to get all the squeeze-out cleaned up. That stuff is nasty and not much is going to stick to it. Plus just looks neater.

Paul, thanks for reviewing my situation. I wrestled with the fitment of the DS FB inner wall panels for some time. I think it's about as good as my skills can get it, i.e. I'm stuck with the 1/4" gap. (I wish we were neighbors...I'd buy you a cup of coffee for a few minutes of your time for some pointers. :)). I spend a lot of time on these seemingly "easy" scenarios, and often still not sure if it's done right. For example, the rear edge of this same panel overlapped the "A" panel on the transmission tunnel by almost an inch at the top, tapering to less than 1/2" on the bottom. After head scratching I decided it shouldn't be there, and removed the overlap with my jigsaw. (The pictures I took before removing panels at delivery confirmed it was assembled that way). It fits perfect now, but leaves me wondering why I had to remove so much material?!?

After more consideration (and your helpful comments above) I'm leaning toward fitting an aluminum patch, then I should only have to deal with 1/8" gap or less (hopefully!). I will probably attach it on the engine bay side like I did on the PS FB patch shown above. Any concerns with that approach?

[edwardb]

Paul, thanks for reviewing my situation. I wrestled with the fitment of the DS FB inner wall panels for some time. I think it's about as good as my skills can get it, i.e. I'm stuck with the 1/4" gap. (I wish we were neighbors...I'd buy you a cup of coffee for a few minutes of your time for some pointers. :)). I spend a lot of time on these seemingly "easy" scenarios, and often still not sure if it's done right. For example, the rear edge of this same panel overlapped the "A" panel on the transmission tunnel by almost an inch at the top, tapering to less than 1/2" on the bottom. After head scratching I decided it shouldn't be there, and removed the overlap with my jigsaw. (The pictures I took before removing panels at delivery confirmed it was assembled that way). It fits perfect now, but leaves me wondering why I had to remove so much material?!?

After more consideration (and your helpful comments above) I'm leaning toward fitting an aluminum patch, then I should only have to deal with 1/8" gap or less (hopefully!). I will probably attach it on the engine bay side like I did on the PS FB patch shown above. Any concerns with that approach?

Yeah, if you're cutting that much material off something isn't right. The pieces are surprisingly accurate. On my last Mk4 build, the only cutting I had to do was around a couple welds (e.g. small notches) and right along the top of the transmission tunnel. The upright section of the floor piece was just a bit taller than the tunnel. Other builders I've seen with the same issue. The rest of the pieces were just about perfect once properly positioned with the right overlaps. One of the keys in my experience is don't get locked into the location(s) where Factory Five temporarily anchored the pieces with screws for shipping. Typically pretty close but maybe not exact.

But don't let this keep you up at night. It will all work just fine. What I've seen guys do with the DS inside panel on the 4-inch tube is put a number of right angle pieces on the inside. Each piece as long as possible but also short enough to navigate the curve. Riveting to the panel and the 4-inch tube. Closes the gap plus ties down the panel. Then later covered by insulation and carpet. That's how I would do it. Maybe someone reading the thread could post a picture of how they did it.

[460.465USMC]

Brilliant, Paul! I really like your idea of right angle pieces on the inside: adds rigidity. I was in the garage "fabricating" a piece so didn't see your reply.

With the panels back in position I will let this piece--see picture below--rest along the 4" chassis tube on the engine side. Then drill through the existing holes in the patch into the inner wall panel. Then silicone and rivet. From there I will take your idea of the right angle pieces for rigidity. I think about three or four will probably do. I'm feeling better about about solving my gap issue. Now to execute!

Using my jigsaw, 1.5" hole saw, and Dremel I cut this piece out of the 0.040" firewall that I'm not using. I traced the outline of the factory panel to copy the curve. Once it's mocked up, I will disassemble and apply the brushed/ceramic clear. Then back together for the final time (hopefully!).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143039&d=1613844550

[D Stand]

143055143056

Here is what I did to fill and anchor my gap.

[460.465USMC]

Nice! That's much better than my humble patch panel. How did you form the aluminum to the 4" chassis tube?

[D Stand]

I had a spare piece of tubing that I chucked up in the vise and formed it with a bodywork hammer until it looked right. No one will see it after carpet so however you accomplish it works.

I see that you are in Spokane. I picked my kit up from Spokane partially built about two years ago.

[JB in NOVA]

Chris, I'm arriving late to this party, and it looks like Edward B has already answered your questions (and you should definitely defer to him over me on any build-related issues). I just wanted to mention that aluminum flashing material works well to make small patches for sealing the footboxes and other areas. It is very thin (you can easily cut it with scissors), and it can be bent into complex shapes. I found I didn't even need rivets -- I just "glued" the patches in place using the same silicone sealant I used everywhere else.

Anyway, your build is looking great!

[460.465USMC]

I had a spare piece of tubing that I chucked up in the vise and formed it with a bodywork hammer until it looked right. No one will see it after carpet so however you accomplish it works.

I see that you are in Spokane. I picked my kit up from Spokane partially built about two years ago.

That's cool. I bet you were able to save quite a few shekels on your kit.

I recently changed positions in my company, but used to have much of Puget Sound as my territory, so got over there all the time.

Thanks again for the tip.

[460.465USMC]

Chris, I'm arriving late to this party, and it looks like Edward B has already answered your questions (and you should definitely defer to him over me on any build-related issues). I just wanted to mention that aluminum flashing material works well to make small patches for sealing the footboxes and other areas. It is very thin (you can easily cut it with scissors), and it can be bent into complex shapes. I found I didn't even need rivets -- I just "glued" the patches in place using the same silicone sealant I used everywhere else.

Anyway, your build is looking great!

Great idea, JB. I can definitely see how flashing would come in very useful in some spots. And, easy to work with to boot. Thanks!

[460.465USMC]

Here's how the inner wall of my DS FB panel turned out. The gap is minimized now, 1/8" at its widest point. The simple "brackets" I cut from 0.040 scrap really serve to strengthen this wall. All in all, it's much better than when I started with the 1/4" gap.

Thanks to everyone who weighed in and gave me great guidance/ideas! Now, I just need to learn to sweat less on the small stuff.

The top half of the brackets are cleco'd in the picture, but the bottom half is riveted and glued. Once it's permanently installed I plan to glue in a small patch to fill in the gap at the transition toward the tunnel.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143272&d=1614113269

[460.465USMC]

I just got out to my garage this morning, and it really hit me. It's been on my mind for some time: seasoned builders who stick around long after their builds (or four!) are done to give us "freshmen" suggestions, advice, and good ol' fashioned encouragement. I've needed all three many times, and I'm barely out of the starting blocks on my build. Likewise, I have great appreciation for those of you who are mid-build, offering your time and guidance. But for you seasoned builders who keep following along on the various builds underway, and answering questions (many of them duplicate) from us Noobies, thanks! Thanks for sticking around!

[460.465USMC]

Yeah, since my last update about a month ago it's been drilling, drilling, and more drilling. Insert not a few clecos, silicone, and lots of jigsaw puzzle work applying the Thermo-Tec sound/heat barrier, and that's been a big portion of my time lately. I enjoyed aspects of this part of the build. It's somewhat mindless, so I can put on some tunes and go to work.

All of my floor pieces in the cockpit are riveted, silicone applied, and Thermo-Tec installed. Here's a shot looking rearward at the rear cockpit wall. The fit wasn't perfect--probably due to my noobiness--but it is solid, and should function as well as something that looks prettier. Pretty sure this is my personal best for number of clecos used! I will apply the Thermo-Tec to it once I have the fuel lines, brake lines, and e-brake installed, so as to leave me easier access. My trusty Black & Decker electric drill my wife bought for my birthday 25+ years ago is still working well!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145102&d=1616640078


It was fun to try my hand at making my first bracket (firewall support). I'm sure this is overkill because my firewall is 0.090, and already very rigid. But, it gave me a good excuse to try my hand at making a bracket that won't be seen. Plus, I needed a good excuse to pull the trigger on a new tool: this is a metal brake made by Klutch. True confession: I had to YouTube how to use it, as this is new to me as well. The bracket came together just fine.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145103&d=1616640103


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145108&d=1616641631


Finished mocking up the DS footbox. Clecos only for now, of course, until the body is ready to put on.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145109&d=1616641716


I couldn't think of any reason not to rivet and silicone the push-out section on the left side of the DS footbox, so it's done too.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145105&d=1616640138


Another fun thing (and a new tool as well) I did was try my hand at powder coating. I picked up a small toaster-style oven for dirt cheap off Amazon (~$40), and a powder coating gun from Eastwood. I PC'd the accelerator pedal bracket, and the circular bracket for the metal fuel filler tube on the gas tank. This color is matte black. I put two coats on the pedal bracket. It was fairly straight forward after I went through the whole process. Quick, and not very messy and no odor (had plenty of that recently from my clear coat rattle can work). The original pedal bracket I received was bent backwards (middle). I show it here to give a before and after comparison. F5 sent me a replacement, which I PC'd (right).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145104&d=1616640124

[460.465USMC]

It seemed like I had some momentum with the panels, so I kept chugging along into the trunk. Fitted and drilled the upper and lower trunk panels. I purchased the Russ Thompson drop trunk kit. It wasn't too bad to assemble. I followed his instructions. You can see it below. Again, not perfection, but I'm learning a lot, and it is satisfying to tackle these challenges along the way. See, even the world's slowest builder can make a little progress!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145106&d=1616640163


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145107&d=1616640179

[egchewy79]

just when you think you're done drilling have all the shrapnel swept up, there'll be more drilling that is necessary. looking good!

[jiriza84641]

Use the rest of the Dura line for the undercoating of the body!

[Ducky2009]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145108&d=1616641631

.[/IMG]

Are you installing a heater? If so, double check your hole size and location. Will the heater hoses fit?

[460.465USMC]

Use the rest of the Dura line for the undercoating of the body!

Definitely! I have at least 3/4 of the gallon left of the Dupli-Color Bed Armor. It adheres pretty darn good to aluminum with appropriate metal prep.

[460.465USMC]

Are you installing a heater? If so, double check your hole size and location. Will the heater hoses fit?

No, sir, but thanks for asking. I can see why you would think so, given the climate here in Spokane. It should be just wiring that I might pull through the 1.5" hole. Not sure if I will even use it, but chose to drill it just in case.

[Fman]

Nice work, drop trunk looks great! Aren't those Cleco's the best thing ever made? They are like little helpers for your build that never complain and always work:D

[460.465USMC]

Oh, man! Some of the best money I spent on tools for my build. Not sure what I would do without them!

[GoDadGo]

Remember to run your rear wiring harness before you pop rivet the trunk floor into place.

Consider drilling your roll bar(s) too before you pop rivet the back of the cockpit.

After That Have A Hap-Hap-Happy Riveting Weekend!

[460.465USMC]

Remember to run your rear wiring harness before you pop rivet the trunk floor into place.

Consider drilling your roll bar(s) too before you pop rivet the back of the cockpit.

After That Have A Hap-Hap-Happy Riveting Weekend!

Great tips! Thanks, Steve!

[GoDadGo]

Great tips! Thanks, Steve!

Just passing the advice that was given to me long, long ago.

[Blitzboy54]

Hey Chris. Great thread. Enjoying your progress. How much thermo tec did you end up purchasing. I am getting close to ordering some but not sure how much I'll need.

Thanks

Jesse

[460.465USMC]

Hi Jesse. I bought four of the 36" X 60" size rolls (heat + sound barrier). This gave me enough to cover both footboxes, floor panels, transmission tunnel sides, and rear cockpit wall. I have enough left over to do the inside of the Russ Thompson drop trunk, and probably the upper trunk panel. Hope this helps.

[460.465USMC]

So, I'm a bit stumped, and looking for your help on how to mount the Coyote accelerator pedal. It seems pretty straight forward from the F5 manual, but something is not right.

In this picture you can see the accelerator mount bracket attached to the accelerator mount that's welded to the chassis. This is where the F5 manual shows to mount it. However, look at the position of the pedal: it's quite a bit too high. In fact, a portion of it is rubbing on 3/4" tube--see red arrow. This can't be right, because the upper pedal mounting hole won't line up with the mount bracket because of the contact of the upper pedal body and the 3/4" tube.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145440&d=1617153832


Here you can see how high the pedal sits in comparison to the other pedals. I know accelerator pedal height is a preference item, but this is obviously too high. I'm following the pedal mod. that Shark92651 designed, thus the aluminum brackets on the rear of the pedal--more on that later. Looking at his mounting position, and that of Edwardb's mounting position, my pedal is like 2+ inches too high. I'm wondering how others did this, and if anyone is using the bent mounting bracket, or are others fabricating their own brackets to place the pedal in the correct position?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145441&d=1617153843


Thanks in advance for your help!

[Ducky2009]

Check out the Coyote install instructions dated 11/30/16. I didn't receive the mounting bracket that you have. Mine has a flat bracket that bolts on to the frame welded bracket. The bottom of my gas pedal is almost even to the bottom of the welded on bracket. Also, because it's flat, it has plenty of clearance to the 3/4" frame cross-bracket.

[460.465USMC]

Thanks for the tip, David.

I still can't see any way to use the F5 supplied bent bracket that will provide the proper positioning of the pedal, and the clearance for the DBW connection at the top of the assembly. I'm in the process of making a flat bracket now. It's basically the same idea I saw Edwardb come up with on his 20th anniv. build. I'll share when complete.

[460.465USMC]

Happy Easter! So, I have the Coyote gas pedal mounting challenge resolved. More about that in a minute.

I really liked what Shark92651 came up with to improve the mounting of the Coyote gas pedal pad to the arm: both in its location (more clearance away from FB inner wall), and the position of the pedal (right side up compared to F5 does it
upside down). Combining his mod with the new flat mounting bracket I made provided abundant clearance for the DBW connection at the top (see my second update). It was a very low dollar cost mod, but it did take me quite a bit of time (understatement).

Link to Shark92651's mod - Part 1:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27777-Shark92651-s-MK4-Coyote-Build-9327-Graduated!!&p=330500&viewfull=1#post330500

Part 2:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27777-Shark92651-s-MK4-Coyote-Build-9327-Graduated!!&p=330764&viewfull=1#post330764

Part 3:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27777-Shark92651-s-MK4-Coyote-Build-9327-Graduated!!&p=331713&viewfull=1#post331713

He did a great job designing the mod, and documenting, so no need for me to go into much detail. Here's how my copy of his approach turned out.

The first (and scariest) step is to cut up the Coyote gas pedal even more than the F5 instructions show--reminds me of cutting into the rear spindles. Scary indeed, but I found it to be very worthwhile, and I think the finished product is very solid.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145596&d=1617498336



The next step is to make an insert that nestles into the back side of the pedal. It needs to be about 3/16" thick. I have some scrap left over from the 0.090 firewall, so I cut two pieces and used JB Weld to glue them together (.090 + .090 =.180 = 3/16"). Then, some time with the hand file, and it fits well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145592&d=1617498272



The center screw that comes with the pedal is reused. It just needed to be cut down the same amount I removed from the plastic nut that's molded on the center of the pedal pad.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145595&d=1617498318



Following Shark92651's example I made two small brackets to secure the pedal to the aluminum insert.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145598&d=1617498671

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145610&d=1617505385


Here's how it looks all mocked up together.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145611&d=1617505402

[460.465USMC]

Now that the pad for the gas pedal is mocked up I turned to the mounting bracket for the pedal assembly. As I mentioned, the bent bracket that came with my kit placed the pedal too high, provided virtually no clearance for the DBW plug, and the holes in the bracket didn't line up with the holes in the pedal assembly. After thinking on it a bit, and reaching out to the forum, I decided a flat bracket would be the solution.

I remembered reading Edwarb's solution for his 20th anniversary build, which gave me inspiration to try to do the same.

Link to Edwardb's bracket solution:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=215569&viewfull=1#post215569

I took lots of measurements and through trial and error made a template for a flat bracket. Still having plenty of scrap left over from the thick (.090) firewall I made, I again cut two pieces and glued them together with JB Weld. After giving them some hand file treatment, I drilled holes in the flat bracket, and through the welded mount on the chassis. Lots of measuring here to ensure all the holes would line up, and that the final pedal assembly position would be correct.


Mocking up the flat bracket:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145612&d=1617505446


Then I gave all of the aluminum brackets (all five) powder coat treatment using my Eastwood powder coating gun and small toaster oven.

Benefits: lots of clearance for the DBW connection on top, and it butts against the 3/4" tube on the right hand side for additional support. However, like Shark92651 I wanted to make it as solid as possible so I added a small aluminum bracket to the right hand side. Note: this position is at least two if not almost three inches lower than where the F5 bent bracket puts the pedal.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145613&d=1617505458


View of the flat bracket from the left hand side:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145614&d=1617505480


The finished product:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145615&d=1617505499

[460.465USMC]

I'm enjoying powder coating various items. My oven is a toaster oven, so space is quite limited. It's a challenge to fit items in there, but I've been able to do a few now. I like it because it's fast, the PC is more durable than rattle can, the powder is cheap, and no smell in the garage.

Here's a mount I made to PC the Breeze forward battery box. I cobbled together some spare strapping I had laying around, and ground down the tips of 1/4" bolts to minimize the contact area when I set the Breeze battery box on it in the oven.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145591&d=1617498248


Will this thing (Breeze battery box) fit in here? Yes...barely!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145593&d=1617498287


Breeze battery kit powder coated. This was pretty satisfying.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145594&d=1617498300


The big challenge for me is minimizing the amount of dry powder that comes off when I transfer the parts into the oven. If it's noticeable, I touch it up tiny spots with enamel and a foam brush.

[460.465USMC]

It's been very difficult to get any garage time over the last month. Lots of Spring outdoor To Dos taking precedence. So, it was nice to get a few hours this weekend.

I tackled the Breeze forward battery box. Like Mark's instructions note, the forward 2" tube cross members may not be parallel to the 4" chassis tube. This is true on my chassis. However, nothing that the supplied spacers (SS washers) won't fix. Instead of installing the spacers between the rear of the box and 4" chassis tube, I found by placing them between the 2" cross tube members and the front of the tray it fit more squarely. This small project should have been a no-brainer to install, right? Right! Except....

I have minimal (zero?) experience tapping threads. Because I placed the spacers on the front of the box, the supplied 3/16" rivets were no longer an option. So, I decided to tap 1/4"-20 threads. (I recently tapped a number of 10-32 threads in the aluminum brackets for my Coyote gas pedal, so I figured I had some experience). Well, I got the first 1/4"-20 hole tapped, but the T-handle turned pretty hard. On my second hole the tap broke off in the hole. I've never been accused of being a body builder, so my first thought was "I should have bought a better grade tap/die set". Which is probably correct--I have cobalt taps on their way from McMaster-Carr. Well, it turns out TAP Magic Cutting Fluid is pretty handy for tapping holes in steel. I know, I know...big Rookie mistake!

I decided to take the easier (and less frustrating!) route of abandoning that hole, and drilling a new one next to it. Yep, another opportunity to drill through stainless steel (Breeze kit is SS). Did I mention how much I dislike drilling stainless steel? In the picture below, the red down arrow points to the abandoned tap bit/hole. The right pointing arrow points to the 90 deg. grease fitting Breeze supplied. This will make it reachable without having to remove the battery. This Breeze kit is quality.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=146931&d=1619391853

I'm learning so much. Though frustrating at times, this is a blast!

[edwardb]

Speaking as one who has broken off his share of taps, I feel your pain. Two other hints in addition to using lubricant. If you start to feel the tap drag, back it out and clear the chips. Don't just power through. It's a matter of feel based on the size of the tap and the material. But in general clear the chips a few times and you reduce the chance of breaking it. The other thing is taps just plain get dull and wear out. Some better than others. I use 10-32's a lot, and always have a couple spares. Once they start getting dull, you're one good twist away from breaking. The carbide ones are nice and should last a long time. But they're also brittle. So just be careful.

BTW, that same cutting oil you're using for cutting threads can also be used when drilling in metal. Especially for SS. It really helps.

[460.465USMC]

Thanks for the advice, Paul! I think I know what you mean by "it's a matter of feel". After drilling more than a few holes through the aluminum panels and into the steel chassis, I now have a "feel"--and ear--for when the bit is about to bust through the material, so I reduce the drill's RPM. I'm thinking the tap feel you're describing may be sort of similar. I'll be on the lookout for it next time...AND skip the breakfast Wheaties. :p

[JB in NOVA]

Chris, I had also never tapped a threaded hole until installing the Breeze forward battery box, so my learning curve was exactly like yours. I broke a tap fairly early (not on the Breeze install but shortly thereafter). Just as Paul advises, it's all about clearing the debris. When tapping into the 4" frame tubes (e.g., for mounting fuel or brake line brackets), it is especially important to take it slow -- 1/2 turn clockwise (or less), followed by 1/2 CCW turn to clear the debris, repeat until finished. If you feel the tool starting to strain under the torque, stop immediately and back out. The tool won't break while backing out -- only going forward. I haven't broken a tap since I started following this advice. Good luck!

[Railroad]

To save drilling and tapping on stuff like line clamps, I used tec screws that drill and will self tap. I removed the tec screw and used a self tapping machine screw to hold the clamp in place. The caution here is, if using a impact to run the screws in, do not let it hammer and snap the head off the screw. You will have to relocate the hole and clamp. A friend told me so.
I found this much easier and faster than drilling and tapping.
To help keep your clamps and lines straight pull a strip of painters tape down the frame rail or run of metal.

[460.465USMC]

Chris, I had also never tapped a threaded hole until installing the Breeze forward battery box, so my learning curve was exactly like yours. I broke a tap fairly early (not on the Breeze install but shortly thereafter). Just as Paul advises, it's all about clearing the debris. When tapping into the 4" frame tubes (e.g., for mounting fuel or brake line brackets), it is especially important to take it slow -- 1/2 turn clockwise (or less), followed by 1/2 CCW turn to clear the debris, repeat until finished. If you feel the tool starting to strain under the torque, stop immediately and back out. The tool won't break while backing out -- only going forward. I haven't broken a tap since I started following this advice. Good luck!

Great tips! Thanks for chiming in, JB!

[Blitzboy54]

Chris, I had also never tapped a threaded hole until installing the Breeze forward battery box, so my learning curve was exactly like yours. I broke a tap fairly early (not on the Breeze install but shortly thereafter). Just as Paul advises, it's all about clearing the debris. When tapping into the 4" frame tubes (e.g., for mounting fuel or brake line brackets), it is especially important to take it slow -- 1/2 turn clockwise (or less), followed by 1/2 CCW turn to clear the debris, repeat until finished. If you feel the tool starting to strain under the torque, stop immediately and back out. The tool won't break while backing out -- only going forward. I haven't broken a tap since I started following this advice. Good luck!

This is right. I tap all the time at work. Use oil, go slow and every few threads you go twist backwards. No shame in backing out, cleaning your tap and starting back again.

[460.465USMC]

To save drilling and tapping on stuff like line clamps, I used tec screws that drill and will self tap. I removed the tec screw and used a self tapping machine screw to hold the clamp in place. The caution here is, if using a impact to run the screws in, do not let it hammer and snap the head off the screw. You will have to relocate the hole and clamp. A friend told me so.
I found this much easier and faster than drilling and tapping.
To help keep your clamps and lines straight pull a strip of painters tape down the frame rail or run of metal.

Hi Railroad. Been a while...I always appreciate your insight and ideas. I will have to look up tec screws, as I'm not familiar.

I like your idea on the painter's tape. Coming up very soon is to run my supply and return fuel lines. I'm using the Breeze braided fuel line kit, so the painter's tape idea will see immediate implementation! I was hoping my wheels and tires would have arrived by now, so I could do this task on my four-post lift, but they're 2+ months on back order...and still waiting (I didn't order them from F5). Thanks again!

[460.465USMC]

Quick question for the forum: I'm installing my Aeromotive pressure regulator. I know 06AN fittings do not get thread sealant, but what about the 06AN to radius port adapter? In other words, the side that threads into the regulator, does it need thread sealant? If so, am I okay using Permatex thread sealant, or should I use the stretch tape that comes on a roll (same stuff I've used for plumbing connections in my house).

Please advise, and thanks in advance!

[edwardb]

Quick question for the forum: I'm installing my Aeromotive pressure regulator. I know 06AN fittings do not get thread sealant, but what about the 06AN to radius port adapter? In other words, the side that threads into the regulator, does it need thread sealant? If so, am I okay using Permatex thread sealant, or should I use the stretch tape that comes on a roll (same stuff I've used for plumbing connections in my house).

Please advise, and thanks in advance!

Nope. That's an O-ring fitting. The O-ring does the sealing not the threads. So no sealant. Generally speaking, only use thread sealant on pipe thread (NPT) fittings. They're the ones using tapered threads for sealing. Side comment -- I'd save the Teflon tape tape your home plumbing projects and where needed only use Permatex or something similar.

[460.465USMC]

Thanks for the helpful info., Paul. Can't believe how much I'm learning. I guess this old dog Can learn new tricks.

[460.465USMC]

Another question for the forum: I can't seem to keep the stainless hose from turning with the coupling nut as I tighten it to the fitting body. I followed Mark's (Breeze) installation instructions, and it clearly states to tighten the coupling nut to the fitting body, i.e. fitting body remains stationary during the tightening process. I have used my bench vise to hold the fitting body, as well as an adjustable wrench. Either way, the hose twists with the coupling nut. It does, however, tighten just fine, and I'm left with a small gap (<1/16") when complete.

I've watched several 06AN installation videos on stainless hose and it doesn't seem like the hose twists with the coupling nut. Is this normal? Am I doing something wrong?

Question answered: Later this evening....I believe I answered my own question. I watched (and re-watched) a couple videos (one by Aeromotive) for installing 06AN on PFTE with stainless braided jacket. These videos do not demonstrate what I stated above: the tube nut side is put into the vice, and the fitting body is threaded into the tube nut, not the other way around. This makes sense to me. I'm going to proceed with this procedure. Not sure what Mark is describing in his instructions (weird, because his products and directions have been otherwise solid). Also, I need to reopen the connections I completed to verify the PFTE is seated all the way in to the lip on the ferule.

Moving on, but always welcome advice and comments from the forum.

[Fman]

Chris, one tip on those AN fittings make sure and use lube on the threads especially if they are aluminum. I used a little dab of engine assembly lube, recommended by my local speed shop. Without lube you take a chance of stripping them out (ask me how I know), and they do not need to be bottomed out to be leak free. Sometimes they will not completely bottom out and that is ok.

[460.465USMC]

Thanks for the tips, Travis. I've been putting a small amount of grease on the threads per Mark's instructions. Good to know your fittings didn't need to be bottomed out. The Aeromotive video confirmed this as well. Appreciate very much the confirmation on both items!

[460.465USMC]

At last my fuel lines are installed! I bought 3/8" stainless braided PFTE fuel lines (supply and return) from Breeze. It was definitely a learning curve working with the 06AN connectors and the stainless braid.

I also installed a 3/8" return fuel kit from Breeze. I wasn't excited about drilling a 9/16" hole in the top of the gas tank, but it turned out okay. I used blue painters tape inside the tank, just beneath the hole to try to collect as many metal chips as possible. But there were still a few escapees inside the tank. Vacuum with a narrow nozzle made quick work of the chips. It was a little challenging to hold the bulkhead connector against the top wall of tank from the inside with just two fingers. I only had to fish out the small o-ring once...not too bad for a guy with two left thumbs. :p

The parts I bought from Breeze came with Ham-Let Let-Lok connecters: one installed on the engine side of the fuel filter, and one on the 3/8" fuel rail on the motor. Installation seemed too easy. I watched a YouTube video just to make sure. Guess I got to hit the Easy button on that one. These connectors seem quite solid.

It took me a bit to learn how to assemble the 06AN connections to the stainless braided PFTE fuel lines. Stainless is not particularly fun to work with--get ready for your thumb to turn into a pin cushion! Between Breeze's instructions, YouTube videos, advice from Edwardb, and advice from Fman, I think (hope) the connectors are correctly installed.

My first step was to make a bracket for the Aeromotive pressure regulator. Following Edwardb's advice, I made the bracket so there would be a 1" gap for the Coyote harness to go behind it. It attaches to the bottom side of the 2" square tube where the firewall attaches. It just so happens I had this metal bracket in my goodie stash. [Editor's note: my goodie stash only contains hardware. Not to be confused with other types of stashes]. :p Miraculously, the existing holes in the scrap bracket I found matched the regulator perfectly. I just had to shape the half moon cut out with my bench grinder, than clean it up a bit with my Dremel.


The top bracket came with the Aeromotive pressure regulator.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147465&d=1620356159


Pressure regulator installed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147466&d=1620356178



As far as routing, I followed the typical route:


Underneath the PS footbox. I added a piece of clear tube around the braided hose to protect it from contact/vibration.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147467&d=1620356190


Down the PS 4" chassis tube.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147468&d=1620356203


Up the PS 2" square vertical

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147469&d=1620356217

[460.465USMC]

Attached to the diagonal cross support above the rear UCA, and headed toward the tank and filter. The Ham-let Let-lok adapter on the front of the fuel filter is partially visible.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147470&d=1620356241


And, connections to the fuel filter and return on the tank. I followed Mark's recommendation to go with the longer rubber hose in the unlikely scenario I need to drop the tank. This should make that task easier.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147471&d=1620356274


Close-up view of the return connection/adapter, and the pinched off 1/4" return line--using the recommended 3/8" return line instead.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147472&d=1620356289


Here's a close-up of the protective tube I slid on over the stainless braided line where it makes contact with the cross support tube under the PS floor.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147473&d=1620356329

It was good to complete this portion of the build. If I ever have the opportunity to try it again, I would like to try hard lines (Ni-Copp).

P.S. I forgot to mention I opened up the 3/8" ends on the fuel filter (both sides) and the 3/8" supply on the fuel pump. The manufacturers taper these ends, and by opening them up with a 19/64" drill bit I increased the openings 10% - 20%. Pretty substantial.

[JB in NOVA]

Looking great! Nice progress, Chris.

[460.465USMC]

Thanks, JB. I started on the brake lines. This will be a challenge area for me, like so much of what I've done so far. But is it ever fun...and like Straversi said: addicting!

[460.465USMC]

Today was a fun day, as my long-awaited wheels and tires arrived. I ordered them Feb. 20, and after too many weeks of no improvement on the delivery date, I found very similar wheels at a different online vendor for about the same price. Ordered them last week. One of the front and one of the rear arrived this afternoon. The other two should arrive by day's end per FedEx.

As I mentioned, I wanted something other than the Halibrand replica look. According to the vendor's website (LMR) this style wheel was available on the 2003-2004 Mustang: they are Cobra style wheels. Has a good ring to it.

I didn't waste any time getting them on to check fit, and see how they look. I'm prepared to make an adjustment to the power steering rack if necessary (add rack spacers) if contact with the F-panel is an issue. I don't have my rough alignment done yet, so can't really tell yet if this will be an issue. I suspect it will based upon other forum members' experience with this size wheel/tire combo in the front.

Rear: 315/35/R17 | 17X9 wheel
Front: 275/40/R17 | 17X10.5 wheel


Rear wheel

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148034&d=1621381872


Rear wheel has a decent lip. The fronts are flush. Here's the rear:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148035&d=1621381883


I think I have a roller.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148036&d=1621381895


Noobie question for the forum: is it the wheel that secures the brake disc to the hub? While awaiting for the wheels to arrive I've had them secured with a nut. The calipers hold them loosely in place, but it seems kind of odd to me there isn't something else that secures the disc to the hub besides the lug nuts? Am I missing something?

[NYMike]

Noobie question for the forum: is it the wheel that secures the brake disc to the hub? While awaiting for the wheels to arrive I've had them secured with a nut. The calipers hold them loosely in place, but it seems kind of odd to me there isn't something else that secures the disc to the hub besides the lug nuts? Am I missing something?

Looks great! Nope you're not missing anything. I've seen some rotors that have screws holding them to the hub but most are just sandwiched with the rim and lug nuts.

[460.465USMC]

Looks great! Nope you're not missing anything. I've seen some rotors that have screws holding them to the hub but most are just sandwiched with the rim and lug nuts.

Thanks, Mike! That makes me feel better.

[Blitzboy54]

As Mike said, they are held on with the lug nuts. The Wilwoods are nice because they have the center spacer that keeps them near perfect. The issue with rotors that have a set screw holding them on is they corrode and then round trying to remove (often a torx or phillips head).

I like your wheels, I got my setup from LMR as well. If you look around you can find all sorts of other center caps if you want to dress it differently. Your wheel choice will make your build unique.

[Fman]

Those wheels are really nice, great choice!:cool:

[460.465USMC]

As Mike said, they are held on with the lug nuts. The Wilwoods are nice because they have the center spacer that keeps them near perfect. The issue with rotors that have a set screw holding them on is they corrode and then round trying to remove (often a torx or phillips head).

I like your wheels, I got my setup from LMR as well. If you look around you can find all sorts of other center caps if you want to dress it differently. Your wheel choice will make your build unique.

Thanks for the confirmation, Mike. I'm not sure what I was expecting, but wanted to ask to make sure I didn't brain-fart (again).

Any recommended sources on the center caps?

[460.465USMC]

Those wheels are really nice, great choice!:cool:

Thanks, Travis! It's a lot of fun to have so many options out there.

[460.465USMC]

Now that I have a roller, thinking it's time to try out my four post lift. I bought this four-post lift in 2016 for doing maintenance on the 1969 Nova. Tore down the lift, and set it back up when we moved a couple years ago: the long blue runways are scary heavy (300-500 lbs?). I first saw JohnK use his four-post, and have since seen at least one other builder do the same. After Blitzboy54's comment about the joys of installing the e-brake on the ground, figured now is the perfect time.

I'm currently working on rear brake lines, so will get a taste right away and see how it works. I'm a little concerned the long runways might get in the way. Better stability is a great benefit of four post v. two post, but the tradeoff is ease of access around the vehicle.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148291&d=1621711009


That's my drive train under the blue plastic on the right, patiently waiting to drop in.

Looking forward to standing/sitting underneath as I run the rear brake lines. I did the low crawl when I recently installed the fuel lines (and the rest of the build to this point).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148292&d=1621711045

First time for my roadster on all four shoes on the ground. Wow, this thing sits low! Really something to see first hand.

[JohnK]

Very nice Chris! Congratulations on the lift. I think you'll really like it. Do yourself a favor and pick up one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0199R9WA8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It makes rolling around underneath a lot easier.

Also Race Ramps make some really nice, lightweight ramps that are MUCH easier to move around and store than the crazy-heavy ramps that come with the lift. I put the ramps that came with my lift in the basement and haven't touched them again.

-John

[Blitzboy54]

That is stinkin sweet. Would love to have something like that. Congrats

[460.465USMC]

Today, I received my water temp. gauge back from Speedhut. I ordered the vintage guage set with my complete kit from F5. I'm sure most of you know these are Speedhut gauges. The water temp guage comes from F5 in degrees Celsius.

I recently saw Fman get his converted to Fahrenheit. I prefer deg. in Fahrenheit as well, so followed suit. As Fman stated, it's $14 for the conversion; about twice that for shipping round trip. Anyway, one more thing to check off my list. Speedhut took about one week to turn it around. I thought it was pretty fast.


The white specs are dust/debris from packaging, and my picture turned out a bit fuzzy, but you get the idea.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148450&d=1621910407

[NYMike]

Looks awesome as a roller. Cant wait until we get there. Who did you contact at speedhut to get the temp gauge converted? It looks great!

[460.465USMC]

Thanks, Mike. You guys are making such great progress you'll zoom right past my turtle build pace.

I emailed "support@speedhut.com". They replied with a RMA number, and the Ship To address.

[460.465USMC]

Phew! My brake lines and reservoirs are installed! I knew this was going to be a challenge for me, but it turned out to be more difficult than I imagined. Figuring out the angles and figuring out how to get the fixed length tubes to arrive at the connection point with precision taxed my brain. Given the additional tools I've purchased so far and a few more coming on the horizon, I chose not to buy a flaring tool. So, I used the 51" lines that come with the kit.

I will say now that they are installed it's a very satisfying feeling. I won't celebrate too much until the brake lines are filled and bled.

I bought a 36" piece of scrap aluminum stock (3/16" thick) from my local metal supplier for $11. I cut off a 9.25" section, so plenty left for future brackets. I angled the rear side of the bracket to match the slope of the upper DS footbox. Then, I applied black powder coat. You can see I'm using the F5 supplied reservoirs (one front, one rear, and one for hydraulic clutch). Now I know one reason why so many builders abandon the F5 reservoirs for other options as the mounting brackets are quite wide. Two stacked end-to-end is about 9.25".

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148585&d=1622171957


Then, I set out to start installing the lines. I picked up a bender from Harbor Freight for about $10.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148586&d=1622171989


Here are my other bending "tools". I didn't expect to need to dredge my memory banks for circumference formula on this build, but needed a quick and accurate way to know the circumference on these sockets for different size bends.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148587&d=1622172006


For the front brake line, I notched the DS footbox top where it meets the outside of the 3/4" tube to allow the 3/16" brake line to run by.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148596&d=1622172379


Followed the 3/4" tube (good separation from exhaust), then down along edge of F-panel.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148598&d=1622172424


Coming out the existing inside hole, I followed JohnK's great idea of a solid panel plug. I picked up the set of hole bits for soft materials at HF, and like he said they worked like a champ. McMaster-Carr sells the solid hole plugs in a package of 10. Here's the plug drilled and ready for install.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148588&d=1622172027


The downside of not having a flaring tool is what to do with the extra length. I used an aerosol paint can to coil up the extra--got the paint can idea from NYMike. There is plenty of clearance between the steering shaft and the brake line. This was my first line: after ruining two, I called it good. Both O'Reilly's and Napa carry 3/16" brake lines for less than $10 each. Napa has a better assortment of different lengths.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148599&d=1622172496

[460.465USMC]

Then came off the T fitting, across the front of the X-tubes and over to the PS front.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148600&d=1622172508


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148601&d=1622172526


For the rear brake line run I followed Edwardb and Shark92651 and ran it down inside the footbox, along the 3/4" tube.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148595&d=1622172355


In my goodie bag I happened to have a couple rubber boots of sorts, and a cylinder shaped rubber piece to slide on to the line, and push it up into the boot. This centered the line in the boot, and protected it as it went through a hole I drilled in the accelerator bracket, as well as protecting/sealing the line where it exits the footbox floor. Here's what they look like:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148590&d=1622172060


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148594&d=1622172334


Out of the footbox.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148602&d=1622172538


Down the 4" chassis tube to the rear. I ended up with one coupling nut. You can see it here. For the rest of the lines I was able to avoid couplers and go direct.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148603&d=1622172550

[460.465USMC]

Then up the 2" tube.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148591&d=1622172156


Over to the T at the DS rear.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148592&d=1622172285


Then out of the T and across to the PS rear.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148593&d=1622172300


Really glad to have this part of the build behind me. I hope the bleed process goes okay. That will be another first for me.


Figured it's a good time to rivet and silicone the inner wall of the DS footbox, so took care of that as well. The reservoir on the firewall is for the clutch. I also installed the Wilwood 0.81" MC that came with the hydraulic clutch kit from Forte.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148604&d=1622172564


Still having a lot of fun, and always welcome feedback from the forum.

[JohnK]

Nice work Chris! I know how relieved you must be to have that part of the build finished. In a lot of ways, I think it must be more difficult to use the fixed-length pieces that come with the kit, as you have to get creative on how to take up the extra lengths in some areas. Your work looks really clean. I'm sure the bleeding will go smoothly. ;)

[460.465USMC]

Thanks, John! That's a high compliment coming from you. Yes, the fixed-length presented a big challenge for me. I won't confess how many hours I put into the brake lines. It was a leaning experience to say the least. If I have the opportunity to build again in the future, I would like to try a flaring tool.

[460.465USMC]

Several months ago when I assembled my IRS and IFS I followed the F5 recommendations for UCAs and LCAs which is supposed to put alignment roughly in the ballpark. However, my front tires point at each other. This made pushing it up onto the lift a bit difficult, and will continue to be an issue when ever I need to move it. So, it's time to do the initial rough alignment.

I'm following the helpful thread written by Karlos several years ago, as it seems to holistically address [power] steering rack centering, front end alignment, and steering wheel centering. My goal right now is to get the front alignment in the ballpark, and do some fine tuning later on during go-kart stage. I may eventually purchase my own alignment equipment...we'll see.

Karlos' helpful thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?19175-Steering-Rack-Install-Setup-Procedure&p=215142&viewfull=1#post215142

My question for the forum is why do I have a ~30 mm gap on the PS side between the string and the rear edge of the front tire? (I'm using the string alignment approach as shown in his thread above).

First, I centered the PS rack per above. Next, I adjusted the outer tie rods. On the DS I was able to adjust the outer tie rod end without an issue. It's lining up okay. However, on the PS side I have a ~ 30 mm gap.

I have a staggered wheel tire combo: Front is 275/40/R17, and Rear is 315/35/R17. I read somewhere on the forum when using the string alignment and running staggered wheels to subtract the difference in tire width between front and rear. In my case that would be 315 mm - 275 mm = 40 mm. If this is true, why would I only have to account for the difference on the PS, and not the DS?

I'm probably missing something here. Though the front tires are now in (or at least much closer to) ballpark alignment, I would like to understand the reason for the 30 mm gap I have on the PS. Since I have not touched the Toe on the IRS on either side (i.e. they're set to F5 recommended starting point), perhaps it's causing the difference?

Appreciate in advance your comments/suggestions.

[460.465USMC]

As I mentioned above, I completed the power steering rack centering procedure written up by Karlos. This process also centers the steering wheel, and IFS toe. It was an interesting process I probably wouldn't have figured out on my own. Thanks again for the great write-up, Karlos!

Here is my starting point. As I mentioned above, I set the outer tie rods per the F5 recommended starting point, and ended up with my front wheels looking like this: driver side.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148895&d=1622568111


Passenger side: Just a wee bit of toe-in and caster, eh?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148896&d=1622568124


Starting with centering the steering rack: here is the DS side starting point, and arrow indicating the direction to center. I think it was about 1/2" or so. I used the inside of the upright 2" frame sections as my chassis point of reference on both sides.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148898&d=1622568417


Here's the PS starting point. Red lines indicating where it ended up after centering.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148899&d=1622568440


I completed the first installation step in the Russ Thompson turn signal kit. This is the first time I've seen the steering wheel in place. Pretty cool. Was able to center the steering wheel. At some point after Karlos wrote his procedure F5 made a nice improvement in the splined shaft coming out of the steering rack: it now has a saddle, so no need to notch the spline for the set screw when centering the steering wheel. The saddle gives the set screw good seating on the shaft no matter the position of the steering wheel. (I haven't torqued down the RT bracket yet with nylon lock nuts. Will do that later on once I'm sure I don't need to take it apart anymore).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148897&d=1622568134


I have six of the nylon split spacers "steering travel restrictors" coming from Amazon. I will need to add a spacer (or two?) to even out my lock-to-lock steering wheel travel. Right now I have about 1 turn CCW and 1.2 turns CW. I expect the number of turns to be a little limited due to the 275/40/R17 front tires as compared to more narrow tires.

**If anyone has advice or suggestions as to my PS side alignment situation noted above I would very much appreciate you weighing in.

[JohnK]

Nice work! I'm in a similar place as you, having just mounted my RT turn signal kit over the weekend so I can finalize dash position. One thing I noticed was that when I tightened down the two nyloc nuts holding the pillow bearing, the drag on the steering shaft went up a LOT. I backed off of those two nuts just a touch and the steering shaft became much easier to turn. The whole assembly is still rock solid, even with those two bolts not cranked down, and they're unlikely to further loosen since they're nyloc so I think I'm going to leave them like that.

[460.465USMC]

Thanks for sharing, John. Good to know. I'm trying to minimize the number of times I crank down these nylon nuts (all nylon nuts), so using standard nuts just to hold in place for now.

[Railroad]

Stack flat washers under the pillow bearing until it does not increase bind on the steering. You may have to use longer bolts.

[460.465USMC]

Last week I was blessed to be able to fly to Kentucky to meet my #2 son and drive with him across the country back to Spokane. About 2,100 miles. He completed his four year enlistment. He begins a new chapter in life. Good to have him home.

On the way I talked him into swinging by Mount Rushmore. We overnighted in Rapid City, so it wasn't too far of a detour. Who knows when/if we'll be back that way again. It was worth it!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149441&d=1623549395


It's amazing! Words don't do it justice. The faces are about 60' in height. It was an incredible experience. We didn't linger too long, as we had a lot of miles left to go. I snapped a number of pictures with my phone. Here's one giving a bit more perspective of the height to the sculpture above the viewing area:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149437&d=1623548589


I've been working on the radiator install. I ordered upper hinge mount, lower mount, and shroud from Breeze. One of the first steps is to remove the short 3/4" square tube that is welded to the upper radiator cross bar.

The angle grinder I inherited from my Dad came in quite handy. I thought it would be a bit overkill, but with a steady hand I was able to remove the short 3/4" square tube without too much trouble.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149442&d=1623550198


After that I attached the hinged upper mount. Then I treated the shroud to Scotch pad and ceramic enamel to match my other engine bay panels. Here it is ready to install.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149434&d=1623548287


Whoa! Not so fast cowboy. Threading on the last stainless 1/4"-20 screw which mounts the fan to the shroud, I managed to gall the threads. Not sure what I did different or wrong, but this is how much it threaded before it wouldn't thread any further. Dremel to the rescue! Fortunately, it didn't thread any further: if it weren't for this gap the cutoff wheel wouldn't have been a good option. I'm not sure what I would have done in that case. Phew!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149436&d=1623548573


Chris= 1 Win. Galled stainless screw= 1 Loss.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149435&d=1623548555

[edwardb]

If you haven't done it yet, get some anti-seize (Permatex or whatever available at any auto parts store) and put a little on the threads of every single SS piece of hardware you use. Don't have to go crazy with it. Just make sure some is there. Otherwise you will keep galling and cutting SS bolts. Ask me how I know that.

[460.465USMC]

With the fan and shroud assembled to the radiator, and all of the upper cross bar prep done (i.e. 1/4"-20 holes drilled) I used this angle finder to set the radiator to the recommended 51 deg. I was able to convince myself of the many other uses (:p) for an angle finder besides setting the radiator angle. Also, I didn't want to depend on a phone app., so picked up this one from Lowes for about $30.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149433&d=1623548268


If you're interested in the Breeze lower radiator mount and unfamiliar with it, here's how it mounts to the lower front chassis 3/4" tube. Pretty slick setup. I spray painted the stainless steel 1/2" cross bar black (not visible in this picture) that slides into the hose ends that come with the Breeze lower kit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149431&d=1623548225


And, here it is installed. It will have cardboard taped for protection of the fins. Front view:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149432&d=1623548246


Rear view:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=149430&d=1623548210


This was an interesting task. I enjoyed it. The Breeze parts were good quality, and I would use them again. Thanks, Mark!

[460.465USMC]

If you haven't done it yet, get some anti-seize (Permatex or whatever available at any auto parts store) and put a little on the threads of every single SS piece of hardware you use. Don't have to go crazy with it. Just make sure some is there. Otherwise you will keep galling and cutting SS bolts. Ask me how I know that.

After it galled I began to wonder about that. I used anti-seize on a couple other connections in the build, but didn't realize how easy stainless galls. Now I know (good ol' school of hard knocks!). I will take your advice and make this standard operating procedure. Thanks, Paul!

[NYMike]

Looks great! Had the same issue last week when we had to pull our fan shroud back off. One screw came out easily...the other one not so much. Will have to give the anti-seize a shot as well.

[cgundermann]

You’ll be able to use it to adjust your driveshaft angle as well. Being a perfectionist, I set mine to the exact 51 degree angle as well. You will adjust it some, when you fit the aluminum nose cowling and body interface.

Chris

[JohnK]

After it galled I began to wonder about that. I used anti-seize on a couple other connections in the build, but didn't realize how easy stainless galls. Now I know (good ol' school of hard knocks!). I will take your advice and make this standard operating procedure. Thanks, Paul!

I think everyone learns this particular lesson the hard way. I seized a couple of SS bolts early on, and now use anti-seize on every SS fastener. The ones that are most prone to galling are SS bolts into nyloc nuts. That combo is almost certain to gall.

The build is looking great! I agree that the Breeze parts are all top notch. I think I bought one of nearly everything Mark sells.

[460.465USMC]

Looks great! Had the same issue last week when we had to pull our fan shroud back off. One screw came out easily...the other one not so much. Will have to give the anti-seize a shot as well.

Yeah, even broke out my impact driver, but to no avail. It was seized!

[460.465USMC]

I think everyone learns this particular lesson the hard way. I seized a couple of SS bolts early on, and now use anti-seize on every SS fastener. The ones that are most prone to galling are SS bolts into nyloc nuts. That combo is almost certain to gall.

The build is looking great! I agree that the Breeze parts are all top notch. I think I bought one of nearly everything Mark sells.

Thanks, John. I'm looking at Mark's Cubby....Father's Day? Now, if I could just get one of my sons to read this. :p

[Fman]

One other side note Chris is the FFR fan you are using is very loud, just a heads up on it. I have a friend who just finished his Roadster with a Coyote in it and I can hear his fan running when he is idling behind me at a traffic light. If you wanted to go with a quieter fan you can't hear when engine is running highly recommend the Flex a lite Wave 3000 CFM, I am amazed how quiet this fan is and according to Flex a lite pulls 3000 CFM which is an upgrade from the 2250 CFM FFR fan. The wave fan also only draws 18.5 amps.

Just something to consider, much easier to swap it now.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-238?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw5auGBhDEARIsAFyNm9HBFpRaAD-BC71-TmAjfpjP9xOqrbNKzjRs418Dzcf1KJe3d7yxHYEaAv7nEALw_w cB

[460.465USMC]

Appreciate the heads-up, Travis. So many of these things a noob just doesn't know (or think of). Thanks.

Hope you're getting in some driving despite the heat.

[Fman]

Appreciate the heads-up, Travis. So many of these things a noob just doesn't know (or think of). Thanks.

Hope you're getting in some driving despite the heat.

Chris I think the $175 for the Flex a lite is worth the investment to not have that high pitched fan sound on all the time and with cooling the Coyote your fan is definitely going to be used, just my humble .02...

108 degrees here today, car is going to be sitting for awhile... brutal heat, I hope this is not a sign of what our summer is going to be like here! Just gotta get through the July and August misery...

[460.465USMC]

Been too busy cutting my winter firewood to get any build time lately. (What kind of deranged kook cuts wood in >100 deg. weather?...that's another story). So, only have time to drop into the Forum to check in on others' builds.

I just came across this F5 MK4 YouTube video (18 min). It was released four days ago. Had a blast watching it--the first 11 min. in particular. Great inspiration to keep plugging away, especially for those of you going with the 427 option. I bet those who have finished their builds can relate to the MK4 driving experience, and know that of which they speak. For those like me still in process this is a must watch...I can't wait!

Factory Five Shelby Cobra Review // Homicidal Maniac (https://youtu.be/81OVZnHWd2A)

[460.465USMC]

When faced with a dreaded task, a saying can be heard in my house, "Eat the frog!" Not sure of its origin, but my wife uses it, and I adopted it too.

My Wilwood e-brake calipers rub on my 17" wheels. (I vascillated between 17" and 18" wheels, but felt confident 17" would clear the Wilwood 12.88" brake upgrade kit from F5). The interference can't be more than 1/16" to 1/32", but just enough to make contact. The four piston brake calipers have at least 1/2" clearance, so no problem there.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150504&d=1625702315


Here's what the interference did to my rear wheels before I discovered it. Not sure what I can do (if anything) to get rid of the ring that won't make it more visible.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150510&d=1625702519


To address the issue I removed some material from the top surface of the caliper. I figured 3-4 MM of grinding should provide sufficient clearance, allowing a little room for heat expansion. I didn't want to remove too much and potentially weaken the caliper body. Time will tell once it's in real-world operation.

My first experience with a flap disc on my angle grinder. Glad the e-brake caliper is aluminum, as it was pretty easy to remove material.

It was painful to start grinding on a shiny new caliper!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150509&d=1625702504

I picked up a can of red Dupli-color caliper paint. It's red, but that's all I'll say about the color match. Not too concerned though as it's impossible to see with the wheel mounted. Can I trust you all not to report me to the color matching police? :p I feel better knowing it's coated, even though I don't think this material (aluminum) would deteriorate if I hadn't painted it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150511&d=1625702537

I ate the frog.


I'm making good progress on the e-brake installation, and hope to finish soon.

[Blitzboy54]

I ate the frog.


I'm making good progress on the e-brake installation, and hope to finish soon.

Chris, looking good!

I had the same issue with the LMR wheels. The way they are designed they don't have the rear clearance. I went with a different rear brake kit for that reason. I'm interested to see how they turn out. Very creative solution.

[460.465USMC]

A local guy interested in building a F5 Roadster contacted me recently about coming over to check out my build. Jim came over and I showed him around the build. He's in the research phase, so was very interested to see one in person. It was fun to talk shop. Come over anytime, Jim!

So, my last update mentioned the bit about "eating the frog": well, in truth I've had a couple tasks to apply the frog therapy. The second task is the e-brake install, mainly because it gets some bad press here in the forum. It turned out to be less problematic than I was expecting. I chalk up my good experience to the adjustability of the slotted L-mount brackets. They provide about 1/2" of lateral adjustment for the handle to avoid contact with the tunnel aluminum. Also, it just seems some parts go together better than others.

A couple main issues I've read about: (1) e-brake handle rubs on the transmission tunnel aluminum, and (2) routing the cables below the 4" cross member (as F5 instructs) may not be the best choice. My setup does not rub on the tunnel aluminum. I doubt it's because of anything I did.

I chose to route the cables above the 4" cross member via pulleys. Mostly, because several of my go-to builders did. I first saw this idea in Edwardb's 20th anniv. build:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=225428&viewfull=1#post225428

Unfortunately, not all the Lokar pieces he used are still available. I was able to find the Parking Brake Connector Block (S-8070) from Speedwaymotors.com ($16.99). McMaster-Carr has a stainless steel clevis (6071K48; $9.94), and stainless steel all thread (5/16"-24) to connect the Lokar Block to the clevis (anti-seize applied to SS threads this time!). I needed these parts because routing the cables above the 4" tube makes them too long for the F5 supplied threaded rod setup.

Here's the handle assembly all together with Lokar block and SS clevis from McMaster-Carr:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150717&d=1626051592


I added a 3/16" rivet just above and to the right of the anchor bolt at the base of the handle, as the "L" of the anchor bolt was too close for comfort to the aluminum panel.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150720&d=1626051651


Here's a view from underneath, showing the Lokar block and SS clevis (e-brake engaged).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150718&d=1626051615


I didn't like the idea of the e-brake cable not fastened to the chassis between the caliper and the snap in connection in the transmission tunnel, so I drilled and tapped a SS 1/4"-20 bolt and installed a cushion clamp (red arrow). Now it's not making contact with anything. I feel better. :)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150719&d=1626051635


All in all the e-brake went together surprisingly well, mostly due to Edwardb's clever solution. Thanks, Edwardb!

Second frog down the hatch!

[Railroad]

You might consider rotating the flex brake line 180*, where it attaches to the caliper. At full droop the line might try to kink.
You can lift the car with all the weight off the wheels and see if it will be a problem.
Nice work!

[Fman]

Chris, nice work! and good call on using EdwardB's double roller setup.

One thing I will say after using this ebrake for 1k miles now, I do no trust it. I carry a wheel chock for anything steeper than a parking lot. The metal they use on the handle itself is not awesome, I also press the button in when pulling upward to avoid having it ratchet to avoid wearing down the teeth. Just keep this in mind when you start driving.

[460.465USMC]

You might consider rotating the flex brake line 180*, where it attaches to the caliper. At full droop the line might try to kink.
You can lift the car with all the weight off the wheels and see if it will be a problem.
Nice work!

Appreciate you keeping an eye out on my build, Railroad. I'm pretty sure I checked full droop, but will watch when I lift it to crank down the IRS axle nut.


Chris, nice work! and good call on using EdwardB's double roller setup.

One thing I will say after using this ebrake for 1k miles now, I do no trust it. I carry a wheel chock for anything steeper than a parking lot. The metal they use on the handle itself is not awesome, I also press the button in when pulling upward to avoid having it ratchet to avoid wearing down the teeth. Just keep this in mind when you start driving.

Wow! It doesn't sound like these e-brakes perform their intended function well enough. I will test mine here soon on the axle nut, and see how it performs (been playing with it a bit already). Good tips on the chocks and teeth wear. Thanks, Travis.

[460.465USMC]

After getting the E-brake installed, I figured I could finally torque down the rear IRS spindle nut. I knew it was going to take some serious leverage to get the 98 ft lb, plus additional 45 deg. of rotation.

I can achieve the 98 lb ft no problem with the E-brakes engaged. However, I'm hitting a wall and no where close to the additional 45 deg. For giggles, I adjusted my torque wrench to 250 ft lb to see how much more rotation this would provide: it only bought me about 5 deg. Say what? Wuch you talkin' 'bout, Willis?

So, I broke out my 1/2' drive Snap-on (inherited from my grandfather 25 years ago) with 15" handle. I even slid a cheater pipe over it for increased leverage. I cranked on it, but the only thing that is doing is starting to twist the Snap-on drive. Any more torque on the cheater bar and I'm sure it will break.

Am I doing something wrong? I know the IRS spindle nut is a bugger (many reports of this on the forum), but gee whiz! I can't imagine how much torque it must need if 250 lb ft only turns the nut 5 or so additional degrees beyond 98 ft lb. Does anyone know the approx. torque that equates to 98 lb ft +45 deg?

Looking for some help/suggestions, please.

[edwardb]

After getting the E-brake installed, I figured I could finally torque down the rear IRS spindle nut. I knew it was going to take some serious leverage to get the 98 ft lb, plus additional 45 deg. of rotation.

I can achieve the 98 lb ft no problem with the E-brakes engaged. However, I'm hitting a wall and no where close to the additional 45 deg. For giggles, I adjusted my torque wrench to 250 ft lb to see how much more rotation this would provide: it only bought me about 5 deg. Say what? Wuch you talkin' 'bout, Willis?

So, I broke out my 1/2' drive Snap-on (inherited from my grandfather 25 years ago) with 15" handle. I even slid a cheater pipe over it for increased leverage. I cranked on it, but the only thing that is doing is starting to twist the Snap-on drive. Any more torque on the cheater bar and I'm sure it will break.

Am I doing something wrong? I know the IRS spindle nut is a bugger (many reports of this on the forum), but gee whiz! I can't imagine how much torque it must need if 250 lb ft only turns the nut 5 or so additional degrees beyond 98 ft lb. Does anyone know the approx. torque that equates to 98 lb ft +45 deg?

Looking for some help/suggestions, please.

In my experience doing the 2015+ IRS twice, the 98 ft lb, plus additional 45 degrees of rotation spec is very close to the 250 ft. lbs. level. If that's what you have, I'd call it good. I typically wait and do mine when I have the wheel and tire and it's on the ground. That holds better than the e-brake. Especially when they're new and not bedded yet. I've been able to obtain the 45 degrees using a similar size handle and effort as the 250 ft. lbs. spec as the front hub nut. Which for my office hardened body is about full maximum effort. Can't say why you weren't able to obtain the full 45 degrees. But no point in breaking good tools. There is quite a bit of forum chatter about the IRS axle nuts. But that was with the previous T-Bird setup where guys did all kinds of things to get them tight enough and keep from loosening. I haven't heard or seen a single instance of the same problem with the newer setup.

[460.465USMC]

Hi Paul. I torqued the 250 ft lb on the fronts okay with the same torque wrench, so I can't imagine how much torque would be required on my rears beyond the 250 ft. lbs. I already dialed in. Your experience and feedback makes me feel better. I'm no mech. engineer, but given my experience it seems like 250 ft lbs should hold. I'm calling it good!

[460.465USMC]

Feeling better after hearing from Edwardb on my IRS spindle nuts, I torqued them to 250 ft. lbs. I must have been a bit over zealous last time, because this time I was able to achieve about 25-30 deg. rotation after 98 ft. lbs. Calling it good.

Not too long ago I went through the steering centering process (noted it above), but I still needed to complete the final step and center the steering wheel lock-to-lock.

My clockwise steering wheel rotation was ~1.4 turns, but counterclockwise was ~1.1 turns. I bought some spacers (1979-2004 Steering Rack Limiters) from Amazon for a little under $18 for a pack of six: Steering Rack Limiters/Spacers (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N1P0T20/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Since my wheel turned quite a bit further clockwise, I inserted the spacer on the driver's side.

Picture of limiter/spacer

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150864&d=1626309324


Added one spacer (white) to the driver's side to equalize lock-to-lock steering wheel rotation. Now lock-to-lock is ~1.1 turns in both directions.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150865&d=1626309343


Passenger side for comparison - no spacer added.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150866&d=1626309360


I'm running 275/40/R17 on the front, and with the above config. the wheels just kiss the F-panels at full lock. I'll start with this, and adjust/make changes to accommodate the wider tires if the F-panel contact is an issue.

I was pretty gentle loosening the metal bands, hoping to reuse them so I didn't have to replace with a plastic cable tie. I think I was successful. When I first saw the clamped bands it reminded me of the clamps used on underground sprinkler systems (UGS). Since I've done a good amount of UGS maintenance on a couple different houses I've lived in over the years, I had this band clamping tool. I think it will work to reclamp the bands over the dust boots (once I'm certain I won't need to get back inside the boots).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150867&d=1626309389

I think I may be ready to start wiring.

[BadAsp427]

I remember having the same lock to lock difference on mine.. But I removed the lock from the short side, rather than adding a lock to the long side. I've never had any rubbing problems.

[460.465USMC]

Hi Carl. What size tire are you running in the front?

[BadAsp427]

Hi Carl. What size tire are you running in the front?

255/35zr18

[460.465USMC]

Finally finished my firewood for this winter, so able to get back on the build. I'm starting electrical, so spending some time reading the F5 chassis and Ford Performance instructions, as well as several build threads.

I'm starting with the main Coyote power wiring in the engine bay. I also wanted to get the RF fuse panel installed. This meant I would need another powder coating session. When I get out all the supply/gear to powder coat, it's nice to be able to keep the momentum going and do as many parts as I can before putting it all away. So, I PC'd the fuse panel bracket, as well as all the hood and trunk hinge pieces. Takes some time, but worth it IMHO.

Before PC-ing the fuse panel bracket I test fit it, and drilled all of the 1/8" rivet holes. I found the front PS side of the RF fuse bracket overlapped (read interfered) with the 1/4"-20 socket head that bolts the rear bracket of the brake/clutch MCs to the 1/4" tube. Not a big problem to drill a hole, and incorporate it as a fastener for the fuse panel bracket.

Thought by test fitting I was good-to-go. Nope. I missed something. The rear relay sockets (horn and fan) prevented the fuse panel from fully sliding/seating into the bracket. What to do? I disassembled it (again!), and removed just enough material from the side of the relay socket so it would fully seat.

Here's the point of interference:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151626&d=1628041876


Close-up of the interference. You can see my first slice starting the material removal.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151628&d=1628041916


Material pretty much removed here.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151627&d=1628041889


Made it past that hurdle, so now it was just a matter of making it permanent with rivets. Not quite. The front mounting post of the panel interfered with the 3/4" tube. Sheesh! Again, not a huge deal. Was able to slice away a vertical strip from the post to clear the interference. You can see how I incorporated the 1/4"-20 socket head bolt as a fastening point (bottom left of picture). I liked that idea better than cutting a square out of the bracket to avoid it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151629&d=1628041939


(You can see I nicked the PC in a few spots, but I ain't going to fix it today).

Finally, here is a homemade support bracket for the DS front corner. Have seen quite a few builders do this, as this corner is otherwise unsupported.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=151630&d=1628041955


Today's update isn't really much of an update, but I sure feel good getting a couple little things off my chest. Thanks for "listening"!

A bit of frustration, but a "bad" day on the build is still a good day.

P.S. Coyote (Gen 3) computer, PDB, and Mega fuse mounted; picked up a battery and master batt cutoff switch, but not ready for pictures. Hope to finish that soon and update with pictures.

[JohnK]

Nice! I'm finding that with the electrical work, it's a million little things. Just keep knocking off a few little things every day and it'll be done before you know it.

[460.465USMC]

Thanks for the encouragement, John. I try to get out to the garage after work as often as I can. I'm working from home now, so the "commute" to the garage is pretty short. I'm looking forward to installing the rest of the electrical; I enjoy wiring, switches, and the like. I think it's going to be a fun part of the build.

[toadster]

Finally finished my firewood for this winter, so able to get back on the build. I'm starting electrical, so spending some time reading the F5 chassis and Ford Performance instructions, as well as several build threads.

Made it past that hurdle, so now it was just a matter of making it permanent with rivets. Not quite. The front mounting post of the panel interfered with the 3/4" tube. Sheesh! Again, not a huge deal. Was able to slice away a vertical strip from the post to clear the interference. You can see how I incorporated the 1/4"-20 socket head bolt as a fastening point (bottom left of picture). I liked that idea better than cutting a square out of the bracket to avoid it.



FYI - you may want to make your fuse panel removable - my painter (Ken Pike) suggests making it removable to get access to the windshield posts...

[460.465USMC]

Thanks for the tip, Toadster. I'll take a look at that clearance.

[JB in NOVA]

FYI - you may want to make your fuse panel removable - my painter (Ken Pike) suggests making it removable to get access to the windshield posts...

I agree with Toadster, you need to have the ability to unscrew/remove the fuse panel to access the windshield post on the DS. No big deal, just drill out those rivets and replace with sheet-metal screws. Otherwise, looking good!

[egchewy79]

FYI - you may want to make your fuse panel removable - my painter (Ken Pike) suggests making it removable to get access to the windshield posts...

I was able to get my windshield bolts in without any issues with the panel in place. I tapped (1/2"-13) my windshield post which allows you to start the bolt with your hand and tighten it up with a socket once threaded. This is much easier than trying to get a nut on the back of that bolt.

[460.465USMC]

Lots of reading, thinking, planning, rereading, and mostly not wanting to screw up something on my electrical install means not much progress lately. So, I came up for air lest I drown in my electrical conundrum...Sheesh! For the sake of my sanity (insanity?) I picked up another aspect of the build, hood hinges.

During my last mega-powder coat session I PCd the hood hinge hardware pieces, so they were ready to install. I followed advice from the forum to ditch the wavy washers, replacing with 3/8" stainless flat washers to stablize hinge and hood operation.

Here's a sample wavy washer that comes with the hinge hardware.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152233&d=1629168175


What is the chance I remembered this little nugget of wisdom before I assembled the hinges? Slim to none. The odds held true. Actually, I wasn't completely done before I remembered...only half way through the second hinge assembly! :o
Thankfully, I had a good supply of stainless washers on hand, so it was an easy fix. Better to remember now versus after the hood is installed. In my mind's eye I can see it now: "Gee, these hood hinges seem a bit wobbly".

Passenger side.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152234&d=1629168190


Top view of passenger side.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152235&d=1629168206



A little forward progress; a little backtracking. And so it goes. But still having a blast!

A big thanks to fellow builder, JohnK, for reminding me to divert to something else when I get bogged down: thanks, John!

[JohnK]

Thanks for the reminder on the hinge washers! I'm close to being ready to install those myself.

[460.465USMC]

I received the needed items (heat shrink, etc.) I've been waiting on, so was able to finish the Coyote main power installation. I picked up a Group 51 (500 CCA) battery and placed it in the Breeze forward battery box. This allowed me to install the securing rods: one more item checked off the list.

Drawing inspiration from Edwardb and other builders who followed suit, I drilled and tapped a 3/8"-16 hole in the 4" tube to the right of the battery box. After removing the powder coat and applying dielectric grease, I secured the battery (-) cable, as well as the Coyote PDB ground. All of my main power cable is 4 AWG. Breeze supplies a nice length of black with the battery box kit, and F5 supplies a couple lengths of red 4 AWG with the complete kit. So, I didn't have to buy any more. Happy to save a few shekels (for once!).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152334&d=1629335445


The 10 AWG negative PDB cable is quite long, so I lopped off quite a few feet. Then crimped and soldered on a ring terminal to attach to the chassis location shown above. As other Coyote builders who have had the pleasure of unwrapping the Ford performance wire loom are acutely aware, it is quite the chore. Had to break out my 2X power Costco readers, and put on a head lamp to try to find the ends of the vinyl wrap and electrical tape. I will say it's nice to have a cleaner install, so I suppose it's worth it. I also unwrapped the blue "Starter lead" wire from the Coyote PCM loom, and routed it inside this same loom as the above mentioned PDB ground, 4 AWG to the starter, and 4 AWG battery to master cutoff. It's a bit crowded in that loom, but fits just fine. Used a few cushioned clamps and 3/16" rivets to secure.

Here you can see the Coyote starter lead, and 4 AWG +12V (from the master switch).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152335&d=1629335460


This same power bundle/loom travels up the diagonal support toward the master cutoff switch. Here you can see the F5 provided L bracket on which the PDB mounts. I really liked it. So, decided to install it per the instructions on top of the PS FB.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152336&d=1629335478


Up to the master cutoff (Breeze). Hot lead (unswitched) is on top, connected directly to the battery (+), and second 4 AWG to the mega-fuse, which then feeds the PDB. The bottom 4 AWG is switched, and feeds the starter. I'm working on adding a 8 AWG to the bottom 3/8" stud, which will feed a +12VDC bus bar for RF harness power connections inside the dash (a la Edwardb).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152339&d=1629335592


Here's a top down view of the PDB, and the supplied 250 Amp mega-fuse (cover left open for picture).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152337&d=1629335495


And finally, PC'd the mounting bracket and installed the computer in the recommended location. Secured the cable to the 3/4" tubes with cushioned clamps.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152338&d=1629335574


No matter how careful I am I still manage to scratch up the ceramic enamel on the FB panels. Not sure how others are able to keep their panels seemingly scratch/mark/blemish free.

Now back into sorting out the rest of the RF and Coyote electrical. Hoping to make some progress in the not too distant future...we'll see.

P.S. I first saw Shark92651 use cloth adhesive wrap on his engine bay wire looms and liked it. Since I'm basically unwrapping all of them, figured why not dress it up a little (low $$ upgrade) since I have to rewrap it anyway.

P.P.S. I forgot to mention the F5 Coyote Fitment instructions call for a 2" hole in the firewall for the PCM cable--shown in picture above. My caution in measuring the grommet size before drilling paid off, as the hole size needed to be 1.5" for the grommet that came from Ford Performance. Just a friendly heads-up.

[Straversi]

Nice work. Very clean
-Steve

[toadster]

I received the needed items (heat shrink, etc.) I've been waiting on, so was able to finish the Coyote main power installation. I picked up a Group 51 (500 CCA) battery and placed it in the Breeze forward battery box. This allowed me to install the securing rods: one more item checked off the list.



great update! looks awesome! Really shows how large the coyote PDB is!

this is an area that I'm struggling with as I want to put A/C (or even the base heater) - but space is extremely limited!

[460.465USMC]

Thanks for the compliment, Steve. That means a lot coming from one of my go-to builders/build threads. This is so much fun, and like you said, addicting!

[460.465USMC]

great update! looks awesome! Really shows how large the coyote PDB is!

this is an area that I'm struggling with as I want to put A/C (or even the base heater) - but space is extremely limited!

Thanks, Toadster! I don't have quite the space challenge, as I'm not doing heat or AC, so I think it's a good location for my build.

[BadAsp427]

the build is really coming along nicely and looks great...

[460.465USMC]

the build is really coming along nicely and looks great...

Thanks, Carl. Appreciate the encouragement!

[Blitzboy54]

Very clean. Looks fantastic. As far as the FB panels go I did my best as well but scratches I fear are somewhat inevitable. I used powder coat with is more durable but still scratches. I imagine after a couple 1000 miles of driving the engine bay will have some natural “patina” anyhow.

[460.465USMC]

Very clean. Looks fantastic. As far as the FB panels go I did my best as well but scratches I fear are somewhat inevitable. I used powder coat with is more durable but still scratches. I imagine after a couple 1000 miles of driving the engine bay will have some natural “patina” anyhow.

Good point, Jesse. I'm building a car to be driven. Driving along the roadways will leave it's marks for sure. There's just something about putting marks/scratches on it before it even gets to the roadways that bugs me. But my guess is when I first hear it rumble to life these sorts of minor things will fade into the background.

[JB in NOVA]

Nice work, and great progress! If you're building the car to be driven rather than for show (which is also my philosophy), I wouildn't worry too much about those minor scratches. As you say, they will eventually blend in with the overall patina of the car, and you will probably never think about them again once the body is on.

[Doenut]

Can I ask where you found your wheels and tires from?

Thanks

Dave

[460.465USMC]

Can I ask where you found your wheels and tires from?

Thanks

Dave

Hi Dave. Sorry for the delay. I ordered my SVE wheels and Nitto tires as a staggered set/package from LMR. I had a good experience with them.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=153678&d=1632427343

[460.465USMC]

It's been almost six weeks since I've touched my build. We lost our son Benjamin, Aug. 26. He would have turned 19 last week. The last time we were together he was in our garage to change the oil in his Honda Civic.

He really liked cars. Anything with some extra performance, i.e. "mods" got his heart pumping. Although his taste in cars and mine weren't exactly the same (he liked Subie WRX, Mitsubishi EVO, etc.), he could still appreciate my Roadster build. In my mind's eye I can see the grin on his face had we been able to take off on first go-kart together someday. I'm so thankful I was able to hug him and tell him I loved him on that final Sunday in our garage.

I'm dedicating this build to Ben. This photo was taken about three years ago (he was 16), but it's one of my favorites.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=160594&d=1642709660


Back in August just before getting started on the RF harness, I installed this bracket for the clutch switch. It's a nice bracket that attaches to the threaded rod of the clutch pedal coming out of MC to actuate the switch plunger. At some point, F5 must have started including these in complete kits with hydraulic clutches. Glad I didn't need to make one. Nice improvement, F5. (It comes as untreated aluminum; I PCd mine).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=154072&d=1633304924


One other item I completed before jumping into RF harness was to unwrap the Coyote transmission harness. Per the F5 instructions, this is required in order to be able to properly route the DS and PS O2 sensors to their respective Coyote header location. A red wire is shared between the DS and PS O2 sensors. I had to cut and extend it so they could be separated to reach their respective O2 locations on the Coyote headers. Here it is after DS and PS separated (before rewrapping).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=154066&d=1633300269


One tip I learned to use in the field many years ago (when I used to solder on a daily basis) is to form a hook on the end of each wire, then press together with pliers. This holds the wires in place, making the connection easier to solder. I plan to solder connections like this v. crimp. Just my preference.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=154064&d=1633300234


And, after soldering. Don't forget to slide the heat-shrink over each end before soldering!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=154065&d=1633300248


I also installed a four position bus bar (Blue Sea Systems #2307) for +12V distribution behind the dash area, and a 150A mega-fuse (Blue Sea Systems #5001) which will be connected between the bus bar and alternator. Both are ideas I liked from Edwardb's 20th anniv. build, and are positioned as you see in his build here:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=234044&viewfull=1#post234044


Back to the RF harness, the progress I made back in Aug. was basically unwrapping the main harness. Boy, was it a lot easier to unwrap than the Ford Performance harnesses. Though I must say I was a bit surprised to see masking tape wrapped around the wires when I removed the loom. Wasn't expecting to see that, though I suppose since they are mostly (completely?) away from heat sources once installed I'm guessing it's okay.

Here's where I left off the third week of August.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=154063&d=1633300219


To keep the harnesses organized and labeled for future reference I attached these non-metallic cable labels.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=154073&d=1633305911


Perhaps tomorrow I will get back on the build. Before getting back into the RF harness, I am going to pick what should be a straight-forward task: installing the IRS adapter. The supplied metric socket head bolts require a specific torque value, so I just "had" to buy a DeWalt 3/8" socket drive set, metric and SAE. This is $20 well spent IMHO. I feel much better when critical safety items are torqued accurately.

[Blitzboy54]

Oh my God Chris, I’m so sorry to hear that news. I am heartbroken for your family. I just can’t imagine what your going through.

[JohnK]

Chris, I am so sorry for you and your family. That is absolutely heartbreaking.

[D Stand]

Sorry to hear about your loss.
Dale

[egchewy79]

I can't even being to understand what you and your family are going through. Hopefully the build can be therapeutic for you and help during the hard time.

[Fman]

Chris, I am so deeply saddened and sorry for your loss. Thoughts and prayers to you and your family.

[SCMedLion]

So sorry for you and your family.

Our son is close to his age. I cannot imagine.

Will pray for all.

[JB in NOVA]

Damn, Chris. I just read this and I'm literally in tears. Please let me know if there is anything I can do. Ben was clearly a beautiful person, and he is in a better place now. It is wonderful that you shared your passion for cars with him. So sorry for your loss.

[jrcuz]

So sorry for your loss.

[460.465USMC]

Oh my God Chris, I’m so sorry to hear that news. I am heartbroken for your family. I just can’t imagine what your going through.


Chris, I am so sorry for you and your family. That is absolutely heartbreaking.

Jesse/John,

I really appreciate your condolences. It means a lot. Thank you.

[460.465USMC]

Sorry to hear about your loss.
Dale


I can't even being to understand what you and your family are going through. Hopefully the build can be therapeutic for you and help during the hard time.


Chris, I am so deeply saddened and sorry for your loss. Thoughts and prayers to you and your family.

Dale/Chewy/Travis,

Thank you for your kind words. Your prayers are appreciated. It's been very difficult to get back to the build, but I, too, hope it will help me through.

[460.465USMC]

So sorry for you and your family.

Our son is close to his age. I cannot imagine.

Will pray for all.


Damn, Chris. I just read this and I'm literally in tears. Please let me know if there is anything I can do. Ben was clearly a beautiful person, and he is in a better place now. It is wonderful that you shared your passion for cars with him. So sorry for your loss.


So sorry for your loss.

SCMedLion/JB/JRCUZ,

I am grateful for your caring condolences. Take this reminder to reach out to those whom you love, and don't waste any opportunities. Thanks again for your care.

[sohcrates]

Oh my god. I just responded to your post on my build thread, and then decided to check on yours. I am not someone who tears up often, but I am having trouble typing. I can not imagine what your family is going through. Working on this car with my son (when he gets the time!) is an amazing experience, and makes me realize how lucky I am and how much he means to me. I am so deeply sorry that I can not express it. I don't know you at all, but I feel for you and your family as if we were brothers. Your build we be special and meaningful to you in ways that the rest of us can't comprehend.

[Papa]

Chris,

I can't begin to imagine what you're going through. A parent should never have to experience the loss of a child. I hope you find solace in knowing that he's with you every day now; watching over you, and he'll be with you on that first go-kart even if not strapped into the seat next to you. My thoughts are with you and your family.

Keep me true to my best self, guarding me against dishonesty in purpose and deed and helping me to live so that I can face my fellow Marines, my loved ones and Thee without shame or fear. Protect my family. Give me the will to do the work of a Marine and to accept my share of responsibilities with vigor and enthusiasm.

Dave

[Straversi]

I’m so sorry for your loss. Unimaginable, really.
I know sometimes the shop/garage can be a therapeutic place and sometimes there is just no motivation. Both are OK. There is no quick fix for grief.
Hang in there.
-Steve

[Jeff Kleiner]

Chris,
I hadn't looked in on your build recently and just opened the thread up to find the news of Ben's passing. To say that I'm truly sorry for the loss you and your family have had doesn't seem enough. I simply can't imagine... Keep the memories close to your heart and know that so many of us here have you in our thoughts and prayers.

Regards,
Jeff

[460.465USMC]

Oh my god. I just responded to your post on my build thread, and then decided to check on yours. I am not someone who tears up often, but I am having trouble typing. I can not imagine what your family is going through. Working on this car with my son (when he gets the time!) is an amazing experience, and makes me realize how lucky I am and how much he means to me. I am so deeply sorry that I can not express it. I don't know you at all, but I feel for you and your family as if we were brothers. Your build we be special and meaningful to you in ways that the rest of us can't comprehend.

Sohcrates, I'm taken aback by the incredible kindness of the F5 forum members who have expressed their condolences, warm wishes, and prayers for my family. It is truly a blessing to receive it. This seems like an impossible time to get through.

I look forward to watching your build progress--hopefully more often with your son than without. Thank you.

[460.465USMC]

Chris,

I can't begin to imagine what you're going through. A parent should never have to experience the loss of a child. I hope you find solace in knowing that he's with you every day now; watching over you, and he'll be with you on that first go-kart even if not strapped into the seat next to you. My thoughts are with you and your family.

Keep me true to my best self, guarding me against dishonesty in purpose and deed and helping me to live so that I can face my fellow Marines, my loved ones and Thee without shame or fear. Protect my family. Give me the will to do the work of a Marine and to accept my share of responsibilities with vigor and enthusiasm.

Dave

Dave,

I truly hope no other forum member faces this. Thank you for your kindness, and for including the above. I'm sure I must have read/recited it many times years ago, but can't seem to recall it now. Though, I'm still in a fog, so having trouble recalling things in general.

Your well wishes mean a lot to my family and me.

[460.465USMC]

I’m so sorry for your loss. Unimaginable, really.
I know sometimes the shop/garage can be a therapeutic place and sometimes there is just no motivation. Both are OK. There is no quick fix for grief.
Hang in there.
-Steve

Steve,

My hope is the garage will become a place where I can recall many memories of Ben as I work on the Roadster. Or, just savor the memories even if I'm out there doing nothing. I'm grateful for your kind works.

[460.465USMC]

Chris,
I hadn't looked in on your build recently and just opened the thread up to find the news of Ben's passing. To say that I'm truly sorry for the loss you and your family have had doesn't seem enough. I simply can't imagine... Keep the memories close to your heart and know that so many of us here have you in our thoughts and prayers.

Regards,
Jeff

Jeff,

So many kind and good folks on this forum like yourself. Not only in sharing great build tips, and warning us noobies of pitfalls, but just plain kind human beings caring for other human beings. Thank you.

[460.465USMC]

I decided I better dive into the dash as my next step in electrical. After many hours of labor, head-scratching, more labor, and greater expense than anticipated (!!!!) my dashboard finally entered this world. Did I mention the labor part? It doesn't yet have it's "skin", but it's in place and solid. I wanted to do something a little different, so the dash's skin will be powder coat. The metal dash is also a nod back to cars from the Cobra era.

I was planning to use kit-supplied dash, but changed my mind for two reasons. (1) The supplied dash has 25+ holes 1/8" in diameter drilled randomly throughout--see picture below. (2) The visibility of the large guage cutout to the left side of the steering shaft is almost completely blocked by the steering wheel--that just won't do.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=155736&d=1636306728


So, I set out to create my own dash. Picked up a piece of 0.080 aluminum from my local metal shop ($42), traced the perimeter of the kit supplied 0.040 dash, and cut it out with my jigsaw.

After reading how many builders made their dash removable with the body on, I figured it would be prudent to do the same. I chose to follow Edwardb's approach (no surprise). However, I completely underestimated the level of challenge this would be for me. The precision required to align the brackets, nutplates, and dash so the 10-32 screws thread in easily was daunting. This is probably not a big issue for more seasoned builders.

Here's a summary of the steps I took to duplicate Edwardb's approach:
(1) Cut angle brackets from 1"X1"X1/8" angle aluminum. These get attached to the dash using 100 deg. tapered SS screws (also 10-32). I used 10-32 SS socket heads to attach these brackets to the nutplates. Here's an example of the materials:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=155737&d=1636306728


(2) I used JB Weld to attach the nutplates to the dash hoop. Again, precision is critical on this step. Drilled holes into the dash hoop behind the nutplates to allow the 10-32 screws to fully engage the threads, and provide a little extra length. Finally, secured 1/8" rivets into the dash hoop through holes in the nutplates I previously drilled. Filed the rivet heads flat. In hindsight, I would have countersunk the rivet holes in the nutplates, but didn't because I was concerned about removing too much material. Sounds easy enough, right? Probably is for others.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=155740&d=1636306728


Here's a view of the countersunk holes. This one has a 3/16" rivet instead of two 10-32 screws because I needed more runway clearance on the back side for the 10-32 socket head that threads vertically between the lock nuts into the nutplate. I think it's plenty solid but lesson learned: space these apart a little further to allow ample clearance for the 10-32 socket head. These are now filled with JB Weld and sanded smooth.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=155741&d=1636306765


Backside view:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=155742&d=1636306765


(3) Spending some time sitting in the cockpit (in the actual seat) with the steering wheel in position, and blank dash in place was really helpful. Like others, I spent time moving the gauges around using paper cut outs. I eventually found an arrangement that maximizes visibility. And, puts front and center the vitals I want to monitor most frequently. For me, a builders square and tape measure were critical to keep the layout centered and aligned.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=155738&d=1636306728


To my surprise, laying out the gauges wasn't quite as difficult/tedious as I expected. I considered the circle cutter option to cut the holes, but was less than confident I could make it work. So, I put the old drill press to work with hole saws. I had to pick up quite a few hole saws ($$!!), and seemed to have started a collection.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156313&d=1636913418

[Papa]

... I had to pick up quite a few hole saws ($$!!), and seemed to have started a collection.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156313&d=1636913418

Too late now, Chris, but have you ever seen one of these?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T7P1/?coliid=I3DAKQM0RJ2USH&colid=1PXRT23WHH9TW&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Dave

[JohnK]

Nice work Chris! I completely agree about the complexity involved in the hidden dash mounts. I also tried to copy Edwardb's dash mounts and found them to be far trickier than they appear.

(Edit: never mind on the mounting ring interference. Looks like you got it all sorted out nicely!)

[460.465USMC]

Drill press earning it's keep:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=155739&d=1636306728


Oh, and I discovered the deburring tool. Where has it been over the last year?! It's worth every penny of the $18 I spent.

To make the 90 deg. bend in this thick 0.080 dash I paid a local fabricator. However, I was able to curve the ends using clamps, a paint can, and a 3" scrap piece of electrical conduit. It was effective--use what you got, right? I've been told the ends are not visible once the body is on, so not to worry if not perfect. The curved ends will not be fastened.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=155743&d=1636306765


On a recent thread Straversi mentioned he doesn't toss (discard) steel. I concur, and was able to put the unused Coyote gas pedal mount brackets to good use as support brackets for the grab handle. (Interestingly, the bracket that came with my kit was bent backwards, so F5 sent me a replacement. Now I had two. I was not happy with the way it mounted, so made my own pedal bracket; the silver lining is these were almost perfect for use with the grab handle). Some trimming, bending, and couple holes drilled, then a run through the 460.465USMC powder coating shop and they work perfectly.

Pedal mount before:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156315&d=1636913418


Pedal mount after - installed as grab handle support. One for each side of grab handle. A couple of the Breeze underdash mount supports (4 total) can be seen in this view as well (PCd these as well). I think I ordered these in a moment of weakness, as they would have been easy enough to make. But, they were at a fair price, and they fit perfectly.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156365&d=1637033167


I picked up a couple lights from the trailer section of my local farm and feed store. To be used as footwell lights, one is installed on the DS footwell (attached to Breeze underdash support) and one on the PS. I used 10-32 nutserts to attach Breeze mounts to the bottom side of dash.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156369&d=1637035520


Cutting in the keyhole for the headlight switch didn't turn out great. So, I repurposed the perfectly cut keyhole in the supplied F5 underdash bracket, and attached it to the back of the dash directly behind the keyhole I cut. Helped keep the switch from rotating.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156364&d=1637033167


And finally, the assembled dash in place. One of the seat heaters from Cobraheat is still on order - hence the empty hole to the left.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156366&d=1637033167

[460.465USMC]

Seriously! Three updates for one dash?! Okay, guess this was a big milestone for me. :p


Here's the view from the driver's seat. The small black button on the lower left is for the Speedo menus.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156368&d=1637033167


As far as dash extras (i.e. not part of the kit):

DS and PS seat heater controls (CobraHeat)
USB/12V charging ports
9" grab handle for passenger
Trim ring from Replica Parts


I will eventually install the Breeze cubby, so decided against a glove box. I plan to use the button on the RT turn signal for the horn.

Hope to have the dash powder coated soon.

Thanks to many who shared their great ideas. A special thanks to JohnK and Edwardb for dash-building tips and advice.

[Blitzboy54]

Chris, I love it. I’ve never seen a gauge layout like that before. It’s very unique. I can’t wait to see it upholstered.

[460.465USMC]

Too late now, Chris, but have you ever seen one of these?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T7P1/?coliid=I3DAKQM0RJ2USH&colid=1PXRT23WHH9TW&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Dave

Hi Dave. That's what I meant by "circle cutter" above. In hindsight, I would have been better off buying it and giving it a whirl before fully committing to the hole saw approach.

Thanks for the input, and keeping an eye out for me!

[460.465USMC]

Chris, I love it. I’ve never seen a gauge layout like that before. It’s very unique. I can’t wait to see it upholstered.

Thanks, Jesse. I hope unique isn't code for "'what in the world did he do?!" :p

The "upholstery" will be "Charcoal Rock" from PrismaticPowders.com

[460.465USMC]

Nice work Chris! I completely agree about the complexity involved in the hidden dash mounts. I also tried to copy Edwardb's dash mounts and found them to be far trickier than they appear.

(Edit: never mind on the mounting ring interference. Looks like you got it all sorted out nicely!)

Hi John. Yeah, thanks to your sage advice I was extra careful to watch for clearance on those leftmost gauges. Thanks again!

[Papa]

Nice work!

[Blitzboy54]

Thanks, Jesse. I hope unique isn't code for "'what in the world did he do?!" :p

The "upholstery" will be "Charcoal Rock" from PrismaticPowders.com

It’s not, I struggled to find ways to make it “mine”. I love it.

Also PCing the dash will look sweet as well.

[John Ibele]

Aw, fantastic. So glad you're able to get out to the garage, and hopefully lose yourself in the work for a bit from time to time.

Solid 0.080" dash, with generous bracing including for the grab handle ... doesn't that have a great solid feel?

Yes, your dash layout is both distinctive and spot on, so no subtext involved here. It is distinctive, handsome, yet entirely functional at the same time. Really nice!

Way to go, Chris. One step at a time. And it's looking great. Made my day, and it's not even my car :rolleyes:

[460.465USMC]

Solid 0.080" dash, with generous bracing including for the grab handle ... doesn't that have a great solid feel?

Thanks for the encouragement, John. I really appreciate it.

Yeah, there’s a strong possibility I went a wee bit overboard with the under dash supports plus bracing for grab handle. It does feel quite solid…if you ever need a stump pulled, I’m your man.

[John Ibele]

Thanks for the encouragement, John. I really appreciate it.

Yeah, there’s a strong possibility I went a wee bit overboard with the under dash supports plus bracing for grab handle. It does feel quite solid…if you ever need a stump pulled, I’m your man.

I think when you have the first passenger who wants to get in face first, with their left hand on the seat and their right hand on ... something, please not the windscreen ... you won't regret a thing.

[460.465USMC]

It was fun to hit the Easy button and add a little bling. Plus, another item checked off the list. Following a tip from Blitzboy54 I perused EBay for wheel centers. My wheels are SVE, and I wasn't excited about being their rolling advertisement. So, measured mine (65 MM), then found a nice EBay deal (please excuse the picture quality):

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156504&d=1637201778


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156503&d=1637201778

I'm no Cobra/Shelby aficionado by any stretch, but I'm pretty sure these are not official Cobra. No matter to me; it's a snake, and it looks like it could bite. Works for me. :p

[JohnK]

Looks like a Cobra to me ;) Nice touch on the wheels.

[Blitzboy54]

Happy to help.

They look great!