Electric pre firing up checkup.

[UpNorth]

Hi all,
Getting a little nervous here.
I am about to install a battery in my build.
There is no oil in the engine and trans, and no gas in the tank.
I believe my electric wiring is complete for a first fire up.
After I install the battery how/what should I check out electric things before putting oil and gas in it and try to fire it up?
I just want to make sure I will not have to pull out a fire when I turn the ignition key.
Complete kit with a BluePrint 347 f.i. and a TKO600.
Thanks in advance.

[P100DHG]

Don't be nervous but don't connect that battery yet. That's my opinion anyway. Here's what I'd recommend first.

1. Your plumbing needs to be complete before installing the battery. Complete, means filled with fluids and an initial check for leaks. The best way for me to explain is with my own experience. I put the power steering fluid in the reservoir and bled the system and found leaks at the reservoir, and the power steering rack. It wasn't even under pressure so that says a lot about how much tighter my fittings needed to be. But because so much of the fittings are aluminum (in my build), under tightening and dialing it in was preferred to over tightening. Transmission fluid is easiest filled without the passenger interior panels installed. Differential fluid easiest without the trunk floor. Engine oil should be put in at this point. My 351W based 427cui engine took about 5.5 quarts. Fill the cooling system, I used reverse osmosis water (filtered water) instead of coolant just incase I had any leaks. If I did it wasn't a hazmat situation cleaning it up. I could just drain it, fix it, and refill it. It wasn't until after I verified no leaks (after first fire and system pressurized) that I added coolant to the system (I am glad I did it this way because I didn't have the radiator cap fully tighten down and some water came out the cap). I would wait to put any gas in the car till step 4.

2. After you have filled the power steering (if applicable), transmission, differential, coolant, engine oil and any other necessary fluids, (I would have my brakes bled). I'd verify clutch operation which can be done by pressing down on clutch while in gear (doesn't matter which one) and having someone push the car forward.

3. At this point after everything is verified I'd connect your electrical system, verify step by step things are working right. Connect the battery, if no smoke pours out of the car that's a good sign. Turn the key to on, listen to the fuel pump turn on (still dry at this point). I would try cranking the engine for just a few seconds a couple times with NO gas in the system to make sure everything turns nicely and check for leaks again.

4. I would add gas at this point and just turn the car to ON and let the fuel pump prime up and start circulating fuel. Make sure there are no leaks. Leaks beyond this point could mean fire.

5. Only one thing left to do. Turn the key all the way and cross your fingers.

These are the steps I went through and I got first start on my first try. Just my 2 cents.

[Alphamacaroon]

Great write up P100! I might clarify one part— I don’t think it’s considered a good idea to run the fuel pump without fuel for very long. I wouldn’t run it for more than a few seconds if you do.

Another way to look at this whole situation is that the most dangerous part of the fire equation is fuel. So if your fuel system is buttoned up, then your risk of fire is pretty low when you connect up the electrical system.

In my case I filled the tank with a couple of gallons of gas, disconnected the fuel pump from the harness and connected a 12v battery directly to the fuel pump— this allowed me to check for fuel leaks in a much more controlled environment. Do this with a long wire, and make the final connection at the battery (at a safe distance, so if there is a spark that it’s not near the fuel system). You should probably also connect the ground wire of the battery to the chassis for added safety. At this point you can have a helper connect the battery to run the fuel pump and pressurize the system while you look for any fuel leaks. The nice part about this operation is that you know your only chance for a spark is contained in one small location and if you do run into a problem, it’s very easy to disconnect the battery at a safe distance.

You can also test the rest of the electrical system in the opposite way— disconnect the fuel pump, then connect and power the harness and look for any smoke. The key is testing both systems independently before you bring them together. If your wiring harness doesn’t smoke or blow fuses on its own, and the fuel system doesn’t leak on its own, then it’s pretty unlikely they will be unhappy with each other when you run them together in your final test.

[Alphamacaroon]

Oh and one more thing, put oil in the engine before you even get a battery near that thing! 😄 Like do it right now. Last thing you want to do is forget (happens more often than you think).

[P100DHG]

Oh and one more thing, put oil in the engine before you even get a battery near that thing! �� Like do it right now. Last thing you want to do is forget (happens more often than you think).

All great points you make. Just to add I wrote up a checklist in tape Put it on the top panel of the transmission tunnel next to my key and until each piece of tape was removed from the ignition key area I wasn’t ready to fire.

[NAZ]

Every build is different but what I typically do for the electrical system is take the electrical schematic showing all the circuits and make myself a checklist from that. I list them in a logical order starting with the main circuit then branches and include component basic functions. Some components such as water pump, fuel pump, etc will need to have fluids present to check the functions. Then go down the list and check that the circuit is powering the components and the components are function as expected, i.e., left turn signals front & rear and left indicator blink when the left turn switch is activated.


I will typically stop at each malfunction and troubleshoot so I can correct it and check that item off before going to the next. For pumps I will also take time to check for leaks while the circuit is energized. For fans I will check rotation while the component is energized.


As a pilot and an engineer, I’m preconditioned to follow checklists. It just makes sense and helps prevent missing something. Every build I’ve undertaken and even complex repairs are guided by a check list. After race maintenance items and pre-race preparation all have checklists to follow.

[UpNorth]

Thanks guys!
I’ll make sure to go along your recommandations!
One more question: Did you use a break in oil, the kind with extra zinc? Or did you just use regular one and change it after 500 miles?

[NAZ]

From doing leak down tests, I've found that going with synthetic from the get go makes seating the rings take much longer. I use a dino based break in oil and prefer Joe Gibbs BR30 then switch to a synthetic with high zinc content the appropriate weight for my bearing clearances. The BR30 will work for most but the synthetic I use will likely not be appropriate for your engine. Ask your engine builder what he recommends. But I recommend you go with a break in oil with zinc regardless of the valve train you're using. I know some will tell you if you run roller lifters you don't need zinc -- I say, MAYBE / MAYBE NOT.

I have a full roller valve train but with high spring pressures I still run high zinc oil. And for break in I pull the inner valve springs but that's because of the high valve spring pressures I run to maintain valve stability at 8000+ RPM. Most won't need to make that extra step but to those that will tell you if you have roller lifters you don't need zinc -- that's not always the case.

[AC Bill]

I pre-tested the electrical items that were "always hot", such as head, tail, t/signal lights, cockpit courtesy lights, charging plug, 4-way flashers, the horn, etc., way before the engine was even in. Testing the park/headlights, also turns on your gauge lights, so you can see that they are all working properly.
May as well test what you can, before the wiring becomes less accessible.

[P100DHG]

I pre-tested the electrical items that were "always hot", such as head, tail, t/signal lights, cockpit courtesy lights, charging plug, 4-way flashers, the horn, etc., way before the engine was even in. Testing the park/headlights, also turns on your gauge lights, so you can see that they are all working properly.
May as well test what you can, before the wiring becomes less accessible.

You know just to add to this and an idea for others is I moved the headlight switch to keyed ignition so when the key is turned to off the headlights turn off. No mistakingly leaving the headlights on to come back to a dead battery type situation.