Clutch question

[UpNorth]

I am in need of a little education here.
I installed a TKO 600 in my Daytona coupled with a 347 f.i. from BluePrint.
There is no oil in the transmission at this point and the clutch cable supplied in my complete kit is installed.
When I depress the clutch pedal it moves the cable and the clutch level moves freely.
Is it normal at this point that there is no « spring effect » on the clutch? The clutch level stays in place not coming back to the original position.
Thanks in advance.

[David Williamson]

sounds like the either the pivot is not adjusted correctly or the there is something wrong with how the lever is installed. The lever shoud not move easily and should return forced by the clutch when the pedal is depressed.
You will need to pull the transmission back to get access,
David W

[UpNorth]

Correction here: the lever moves freely on half the « window » on the bell housing.
On the other half there is pressure...So I might have yell wolf a little too soon...sorry...
From a pencil pusher...Please don’t throw too much rotten tomatoes my way guys!

[Alphamacaroon]

As David W said, it sounds like the pivot/ball stud might not be adjusted correctly. It's possible you could fix it by loosening the clutch cable, pushing the fork forward until you meet resistance, pulling out the slack and tightening the cable up again. But no guarantees.

If you look at the following illustration, it might indicate what is going on:

130831

(Note: This illustration is a little "off" because I think the ball stud in the TKO is in a different position (opposite side), and the clutch fork is pulled rather than pushed, but the same basic principle applies)

It sounds like what is happening is that there is some play in your clutch fork before it rests on the ball stud. Until it rests on the ball stud there is nothing for it to pivot on to apply force to the throw out bearing. You want the clutch fork to be resting on the ball stud when it's sitting fairly far back in the bellhousing window. It sounds like in your case it's not resting on the ball stud until it's about half-way through the window. It's possible the clutch won't need the full sweep of the window to work properly and that you can fix it by taking out the the slack until the fork rests on the stud. This is the easiest solution. But this might not be enough. You might have to lengthen the ball stud which would probably require the transmission to come out.

Either way, you should feel resistance (i.e. springy) the moment you press on the clutch pedal— no amount of free-play before resistance is reasonable.

Take with somewhat of a grain of salt— I have a T56 and Coyote setup on mine, but I think the principles are roughly the same.

[UpNorth]

Thanks guys,
Yes my clutch doesn’t seems to need the full window and I took the slack out.
Confirmed with BluePrint in an e-mail exchange.
So I’m probably all good.
Thanks again.

[Alphamacaroon]

Excellent— definitely good news that it was the much easier of the two fixes!