TKO 600 Clutch Return

[IowaBen]

I'm installing my clutch cable onto my TKO600 (I have the 347/TKO600 package from BPE). However, the pedal does not spring back when you let off. The clutch fork on the transmission moves freely, but stays on place wherever you let off. I believe I have the cable attached properly, but I'm sure I'm missing something. Thoughts?
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Thanks,
Ben

[edwardb]

I'm assuming your pictures are with the pedal at rest, e.g. not pushed. Two points: The main pressure to release the clutch is the clutch itself. The diaphragm spring fingers on the clutch are very strong (try pushing the clutch arm manually...) and hard to imagine anything in the cable or pedal that could defeat it. The main thing though is your clutch arm angle appears to be off. With the clutch arm at rest and the throw-out bearing lightly touching the clutch spring fingers, the arm should be roughly perpendicular to the output shaft. Yours is off to one end, likely meaning your pivot is way off or maybe even the throw-out bearing is installed improperly. That could be binding things up.

[IowaBen]

I can move the clutch arm with my fingers with very little effort.

[edwardb]

I can move the clutch arm with my fingers with very little effort.

Right, but you’re not releasing the clutch moving it by hand.

[frankb]

That big nut with the tapered (rounded) end should be on the other side of the fork. The second nut that I assume is on the other side is a jam-nut that will tighten against the big nut. Once you switch the big nut (adjusting nut) to the other side, tighten it against the clutch fork until finger tight. Then, tighten the jam nut against the adjusting nut. You will not be able to move the fork by hand once it is adjusted properly. Once the fork/throwout bearing contacts the clutch release fingers, there is only about 1/4" movement from there to full release, and it can't be done by hand!

[rich grsc]

The cable isn't even adjusted, it is completely loose.

[BluePrintEngines]

That big nut with the tapered (rounded) end should be on the other side of the fork. The second nut that I assume is on the other side is a jam-nut that will tighten against the big nut. Once you switch the big nut (adjusting nut) to the other side, tighten it against the clutch fork until finger tight. Then, tighten the jam nut against the adjusting nut. You will not be able to move the fork by hand once it is adjusted properly. Once the fork/throwout bearing contacts the clutch release fingers, there is only about 1/4" movement from there to full release, and it can't be done by hand!

This is correct. Sounds to me like the "play" has not been adjusted out of it. You move the clutch fork until the play is out of it out, and THEN put some pressure on it with the nut/cable assembly. i don't see any tension at all on it in your pictures. push it tight. make that "zero" and Then push the pedal and see if it travels, and springs.

push the clutch arm toward the table. adjust slack out. they will move 3/4 of an inch w/o the tension pulled out, and not do anything.

[mike223]

I can move the clutch arm with my fingers with very little effort.

There's your problem.

Have you got a throw out bearing on it?

Is the clutch fork (arm) on the ball stud in the bellhousing?

I suspect it's all got to come back apart, and you may need a longer ball stud.



The cable isn't even adjusted, it is completely loose.

And you can't fix that adjusting the cable.

[frankb]

And you can't fix that adjusting the cable.

I don't disagree with Mike223 above, but I would recommend the easiest approach first! Adjust the play out of the clutch (I needed to add a spacer between the adjusting nut and the clutch fork) until the clutch fork/throwout bearing contacts the release fingers (push the fork by hand until it stops), then tighten the adjusting nut against the fork.

[IowaBen]

I've maybe sorted it out now. I removed both of the nuts, pulled the clutch fork to the front until there was pressure (now roughly perpendicular to the driveshaft), and then put both nuts behind the clutch fork. Now the clutch pedal has the tension I was expecting.

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I really appreciate the help. I knew I had to be doing something wrong - turns out it was a couple things.

Ben

[rich grsc]

There's your problem.

Have you got a throw out bearing on it?

Is the clutch fork (arm) on the ball stud in the bellhousing?

I suspect it's all got to come back apart, and you may need a longer ball stud.




And you can't fix that adjusting the cable.

Yes you can, it's an adjustable cable, unless it's not assembled correctly.


I don't disagree with Mike223 above, but I would recommend the easiest approach first! Adjust the play out of the clutch (I needed to add a spacer between the adjusting nut and the clutch fork) until the clutch fork/throwout bearing contacts the release fingers (push the fork by hand until it stops), then tighten the adjusting nut against the fork.

I had the same problem, used an aluminum spacer at the bell housing to move the outer cable back.

[GTBradley]

Oiling the the cable inside the cable conduit is a good idea before buttoning up. Those cables can be very difficult to operate without any oil. You may have seen too that most people (myself included) don’t like that cable as it is too lightweight and has to be adjusted at the bell housing. Mike Forte has better cables and they are adjustable at the firewall - no need to Jack the car up. Just two things to consider.

[Ducky2009]

If that's the clutch cable that came with the kit, you may find it pretty hard to push, once everything is adjusted. Throw it away and pick up a Ford cable (P/N M-7553-C302). The effort to push the clutch will be a reasonable force vs a very heavy push.

[IowaBen]

If that's the clutch cable that came with the kit, you may find it pretty hard to push, once everything is adjusted. Throw it away and pick up a Ford cable (P/N M-7553-C302). The effort to push the clutch will be a reasonable force vs a very heavy push.

I actually did just order one of those. I found enough comments in trying to figure out what I was doing wrong to convince me it would be a needed upgrade. I'll keep the original in the trunk just in case I need a roadside repair I guess.

[BradCraig]

I actually did just order one of those. I found enough comments in trying to figure out what I was doing wrong to convince me it would be a needed upgrade. I'll keep the original in the trunk just in case I need a roadside repair I guess.

I just did as well, the provided one is horrible

[BradCraig]

Yes you can, it's an adjustable cable, unless it's not assembled correctly.



I had the same problem, used an aluminum spacer at the bell housing to move the outer cable back.

I just got my ford cable and noticed the outer jacket is a bit shorter than the FFR one, causing me to run out of adjustment way to early. How did you construct that spacer and how long?