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View Full Version : E Brake Issues - Any Tips?



nuhale
06-07-2020, 08:46 PM
My e-brake hit the crapper today. I'm in go-cart on my 2010MK4 and only used the system a couple of times. Part of the bracket (over the ratchet teeth) tends to bend and the small ratchet lock can not engage. Just plain flimsy and I'm frustrated I have to take this apart yet again. I did a mod earlier on using the lokar knuckle and had to fab a extension to give the system clearance/leverage to clear. I noticed the dowel pin was out and is most likely part of the issue but know that this is not robust for years of "headache-free" use.

I'm overly nervous about the e-brake as I have a hydro-boost brake system that will lose complete power if I lose a brake circuit or hydraulic pressure.

Anyone tackle this and have any suggestions? My initial thought is to rip this apart and re-fab the components with thicker/stronger steel components. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129633&d=1591580757

edwardb
06-07-2020, 10:04 PM
I've used the FFR handle assembly on two builds, after previously using the Mustang handles. I'm Ok with it. I don't find it flimsy or prone to have problems. My only concern (which others have voiced as well) is whether the teeth will hold up over the long term. Some have hardened them, which maybe isn't a bad idea. But that's not anything I have experience with or know about. I do make a couple minor changes to the handle assembly though. I’m not a fan of the plastic bearings on the main handle pivot. Just doesn’t strike me as terribly stable or long-lasting. Easy fix though. The same bronze bushings used for the hood, doors, trunk, etc. are the right size just a little too thick. I had some spares around, so it was easy to grind down a couple so they could seat in the handle pivot. Much better. My other concern was the little pawl piece just floats between the two main halves. A couple of small washers on each side keeps it aligned much better. I also chose to use a 10-32 bolt to hold it instead of the supplied drive pin.

The added leverage of that extension my not help either. I'm using the Lokar clevis through the pulleys with no extension. If you turn that rear mount bolt around so the head is down you get more clearance. Still rubs a little but works fine. Working on season number four with it in #8674.