Spark plug and boot clearance

[Rockon]

Ok so I have read the posts on needing special socket/wrench for the rear plugs - figured that out when one came loose - thank goodness because I thought I had an engine problem.

But I have had less success searching for this issue:

3rd plug back on DS (don’t know what # cylinder that is without my notes).
I don’t even have enough room to get the boot off with the headers on.
Should I be using a special boot or one that’s cut back somehow?

Yes it’s because I’m using GT40p heads with the FF BBK 4 into 1 headers.
Trying to wrap up mechanicals - for 2 months now :) so I can get the body on.

Thanks

[Jim1855]

# 7, 3rd back DS is always a problem due to the required curve of the #8 header tube. I've melted plenty of boots there.

Look at the angles of the plug boots. Buy good wires but even this doesn't always solve the problems. I've had good luck with Taylor wires.

Just reread your note. I've cut down plug sockets to make them shorter and had to work between a socket extension and an open end wrench. There are plug wrenches that are a combination of cut away socket and open end wrench. This might help as there's minimal extension past the end of the plug.

Jim

[Rockon]

Thx

I had to loosen the header to even get the boot off.
Replaced the end with a 90 degree vs the angled one.
This provided enough space to get it on and off but I think it’s stuff given me problem.

Went for a drive and all was good at first.
After 2-3 miles, It cut out for a second under acceleration and seemed to be running a tad rough.
I think with all the plug/unplugging and wire re-routing somethings not getting a spark now.

I will check them all again.
These are new wires but if I still have the issue, I may swap the old ones back in and see if it persists.

Any thoughts on:
- if the boots don’t cover the whole ceramic part of the plug, can I maybe be getting some kind of arching
- tricks for making sure a custom replaced end has good conductivity (I bent the core wire back over the silicon jacket and crimped the end on

Thanks

Just had to replace the starter due to it not restarting when hot - that’s done.
Just frustrating as it seems to be one thing after another and I just want to get the body on :)

[Railroad]

Look into shorter spark plugs. I think Accel made them, maybe others too. They are the same heat range and threads, just short insulator. I had to put them on a 351 with headers. Maybe a 90* boot will give you the clearance you need.
They have some hi temp cloth boot protectors, that help prevent burning up your wires and boots.

[CraigS]

I would look at wires that have factory molded angle ends. I have a Summit house brand generic set on my 408 and was able to route the wires at the cap end to fudge away some of the excess length of a few of them.

[Avalanche325]

Thx

Any thoughts on:
- if the boots don’t cover the whole ceramic part of the plug, can I maybe be getting some kind of arching
- tricks for making sure a custom replaced end has good conductivity (I bent the core wire back over the silicon jacket and crimped the end on



Make sure that you feel it click when you push it on. Some dielectric grease can help the boot slide on and make it easier to feel. Look in the boot and make sure that the connector is where it should be and oriented correctly if using angled boots.

Did you use the proper crimpers? If you used pliers or something else, you are more likely to have an issue.