T56 magnum and SBF install input.

[Blue Viking]

I have just dropped the engine and transmission in to start figuring out how it will fit. I have interference with the frame and the bellhousing next to the starter and also with the frame where the parking brake mount is welded on. In addition i have way to little space for the driveshaft. I think i will slide the engine slightly forward to begin with to fix most of my issues. What is the max recommended distance to move the engine forward without needing any rework of the headers and looking too weird where the pipes exit the body? What is the best/ easiest way to move the engine forward? Drill new holes in the frame brackets? Different engine mounts?
After this is accomplished, I still have too long a driveshaft. I seem to remember someone mentioning a different pinion on the IRS that is much shorter than the one already there. It was a truck part i think? I have searched, but not found the post again, anyone have info on this? I think this is mounted measuring rotational resistance with a torque wrench? Never done this before, is this possible to do at home with the IRS center section mounted, or do I need to take it all apart and have it done at the Ford dealer?

Øystein.

[q4stix]

Hi, I just saw this. I was the one that did the truck pinion flange on my build but I think you would most likely still need to modify your drive shaft length unless things worked out perfectly. I'd suggest getting your engine and transmission in place first and stop by a place that can shorten the driveshaft to see how short they can make it. With that info in hand and knowing how you'll place the engine and transmission, it will most likely be easier and less expensive to just modify the driveshaft.

Others will have to comment on the engine and transmission move.

[Duke]

See my build thread. I used a Coyote and T56 Magnum, so the spacing is a little different. IRS required with the longer transmission.

[Blue Viking]

So I went with the info i had, and think I have this figured out now. My goal was to fit the drivetrain without having to shift the engine forward from the stock location. I went to the local axle shop, and they were very helpful. Found me a pinion flange from, I believe he said Explorer, had it shortened 1,5 mm on the snout, and made a 4 mm shim to bring the nut out where the locking slots are at the end of the pinion shaft. Also had to enlarge the hole as the nut was a bit to wide. Swapped the dust cover to the one that came on the diff. Swapped the axle fork at the diff end to one that bolts directly to the pinion flange, so no need for an adapter. Had the driveshaft shortened a bit, not sure how much they took but I know they had to remove some material from the ends of the forks where they enter the axle tube to allow them to get close enough. Dropped the engine and tranny in, and inserted the driveshaft in the process. I am quite sure it is impossible to remove the driveshaft without pulling the engine forward, let's hope I don't have to do that. Anyway, looks like it fits nicely with the engine squarely mounted in the stock location. Put in one shim from Forte at the transmission mount, seems pretty close, only some fine tuning left for proper driveline angles.

[Mark TX]

I will be having that short drive shaft built soon... Yours looks good. What did you decide to do with the T-56 casing protrusion that hits the parking brake bracket? I have the same problem and am tempted to just hack off about 3/4", but I am nervous. I do not want to mess with the parking brake bracket if I can help it.

[Jim1855]

Many of the "protrusions" are features used in the machining/manufacturing and can be removed. If it looks like they provide a rest or just piece in space there a good chance the they are machining pads.
Jim

[Hoooper]

So I went with the info i had, and think I have this figured out now. My goal was to fit the drivetrain without having to shift the engine forward from the stock location. I went to the local axle shop, and they were very helpful. Found me a pinion flange from, I believe he said Explorer, had it shortened 1,5 mm on the snout, and made a 4 mm shim to bring the nut out where the locking slots are at the end of the pinion shaft. Also had to enlarge the hole as the nut was a bit to wide. Swapped the dust cover to the one that came on the diff. Swapped the axle fork at the diff end to one that bolts directly to the pinion flange, so no need for an adapter. Had the driveshaft shortened a bit, not sure how much they took but I know they had to remove some material from the ends of the forks where they enter the axle tube to allow them to get close enough. Dropped the engine and tranny in, and inserted the driveshaft in the process. I am quite sure it is impossible to remove the driveshaft without pulling the engine forward, let's hope I don't have to do that. Anyway, looks like it fits nicely with the engine squarely mounted in the stock location. Put in one shim from Forte at the transmission mount, seems pretty close, only some fine tuning left for proper driveline angles.

Pressing the u-joint out from the transmission yoke and then unbolting the yoke at the diff would allow you to get the driveshaft out, would be much quicker than moving the transmission. Pressing u-joints is pretty easy to manage with just a c-clamp.

If you have any information on the adapter they used on the diff that could be really good information. It looks much shorter than the mustang one and that it allows for a standard yoke to be bolted to it without the thick adapter from FFR is also a nice bonus.

[q4stix]

The flange looks to be the same one I bought for my build (for different reasons). Mine is out of a 2015+ F150 with the Super 8.8 and also seems to be the 9.75" diff.
Sorry, I don't have the part number on hand though since I bought it in 2018.