Trailer sizing

[Pearldrummer7]

*sigh*

I've had a few trailers, from big to small
https://live.staticflickr.com/2843/34259107446_4b892eb653_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/UcmT5j)
https://live.staticflickr.com/8485/29457867512_e10aaf04d8_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/LT6gHs)


Currently, I have a 6x12 (mostly because it fit in a parking spot at my apartment complex). I'm not as space limited now, and have been debating upgrading for a while. My real question is:

Do you think I can get away with a 7x14 enclosed and fit the 818 in it? It would be a perfect size for my motorcycle track day stuff, and would fit nicely at home. my 20' enclosed was too big for my needs (though damn did it fit a lot of crap in it), and I am fairly sure the 818 won't fit in my 6x12 in any dimension currently.

Do I need to go wider than 7? Longer than 14? I won't be doing it more than 5-10 times a year I assume

[Hojo]

My trailer bed is 6’ 6” x 12’, single axle. It is the standard landscape trailer with a rail 14” above the bed. I cut the front rail off. The front wheelsof my 818 are pinned against the front of the bed. The absolute front of the car is about 2’ forward of the front of the bed. This allows me to raise the ramp up behind the car when towing. The rear wheel bias of the 818 seems to balance the tounge weight on the trailer pretty well.

[Rob T]

I have a 16ft dual axle open trailer. I got that so I could haul everything with my Honda Ridgeline (5,000lb towing cap). One of the largest challenges for me was finding a trailer that was low enough so that I could not scrape the car or high center when loading. I have some very long ramps (about 14ft total) that I built to accomplish this. I also added a winch, so I could get the car back on the trailer if it were "broken". I winch the car from the roll bar with a strap. I wish I had an enclosed trailer, because there have been several days I might have gone to the track, but didn't because of the rain threat. I have ordered some parts to improve my car mounting and facilitate the addition of a tarp I can use while towing. I have also taken to putting the wing in the back seat of the truck as it makes a noticeable difference in gas mileage when towing.

[Hobby Racer]

I have also taken to putting the wing in the back seat of the truck as it makes a noticeable difference in gas mileage when towing.

:D Love that part ... but so true!

[lclevert]

I use a 14' aluminum trailer for my 818. I built the removable cover using a steel frame and aluminum panels. I had originally built the cover custom fit for my cobra but it fits the 818 as well. I had to install tie downs on the outside of the trailer which you can see in the picture.
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Since the trailer does not have a dovetail, I use long ramps to get the car loaded.

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[Rob T]

Quick Question: Is the cover removable? How easily? I keep my car on the trailer, in the garage, and it is nice to have access to it for hooking up battery maintainers, checking the oil, pumping up the tires, etc.

[lclevert]

The cover is removable but not something you want to do every day. If I need to take the cover off to use the trailer for some other purpose, I can, but not something I really want to do too often.

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[Pearldrummer7]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?36976-Frank-s-8-5x20-trailer-build-thread


I went 8.5x20 and it seems like the right size. My F150 has a max trailer rating (not combined) of 10,900 (5.0, 3.55 diff), and it tows this trailer with the car quite well (though it's thirsty!)

[Hobby Racer]

Same size trailer I have for the 818R, its the perfect size for the car and some gear.

[Rob T]

I tow my R without the wing and it saves me about 0.3 or so mpg. Counts for something when you are getting 13-15mpg.

[mikeb75]

I purchased a 12' aluminum Aluma EZ utility trailer (single axle, no brake). This is probably the smallest trailer that would work for towing an 818. I have to prop the splitter/front clip over the front of the trailer deck to clear the rear ramp and not have interference between my doors and the trailer fenders (coupe, can't just jump out the top).

The up sides are this trailer fits in a residential garage (19.5 ft garage, 17.8 ft trailer), is relatively easy to move (I can drag it around the driveway by hand, get it behind the house with 1 helper) and doesn't overload a tow vehicle with a 5000 lbs limit. Towing felt good on the highway, no shake or sway. Tow vehicle (300hp) was able to pull up grade with no real effort. Didn't feel bad under braking either.

After a little trial, error and carpentry I've got the loading/unloading figured out - I needed to use my race ramps and some additional boards under them to get enough clearance between the splitter and the aluminum trailer ramp (it's super short/steep). I also had to make props for the front of the trailer to drive the car onto so the splitter would clear the front lip of of the trailer - which is about 5.5" and my ride height is set to 4.5" up front.

The downsides: not a lot of extra space for accessories. Need to figure out how to store some gas cans... 'cause $5/gal race track gas sucks. The tie downs aren't in the best locations: the back is OK, but for the front I run the straps down to the trailer tongue... not ideal. No trailer brakes (until I add some later). Single axle, no spare yet (again until I add one). Haven't yet weighed the 818 or the tongue weight of this setup -- there is some droop in the tow vehicle -- nothing scary, but it's right at the limit of how low the trailer jack can go.

This is what it looks like all loaded up:
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[Rob T]

Always remember to support the back of the trailer with some jacks or something when driving on. I forgot once and dropped the car (no real damage). Also, if you don't support the back, it puts a lot of upward load on the the hitch connector.

[Mitch Wright]

Rob the amount of drag created by the wing just proves you had too much angle of attack ;) It would be interesting to leave it on for your next trip now that you have taken some wing out to see if the MPG changed.