View Full Version : Need steering shaft removal help.
BEAR-AvHistory
05-20-2020, 09:29 PM
Am trying to remove upper steering shaft to replace belleville washers with thicker ones. Have removed the set-screw from the upper collar & applied penetrating lubricant to the shaft. It is solidly stuck. Am I missing anything else to do to release the shaft?
Norm B
05-21-2020, 01:08 AM
I think there are 2 set screws in the upper pillow block bearing.
D Stand
05-21-2020, 08:47 AM
I had the same problem. Take steering wheel off, measure from the bearing to the end of the shaft. Cut a piece of pipe (I used 3/4” pvc) about 3/4” longer. Slide it over the shaft and install the screw and washer that holds the steering wheel on and tighten. It should come right out. You are essentially making a puller for it. If it bottoms out and still won’t slide out, make the next longer pipe and keep going.
GTBradley
05-21-2020, 10:02 AM
I haven't tried this but it seems to me a slide hammer would work: Slide hammer (https://www.homedepot.com/p/SPEEDWAY-22-in-x-8-in-Slide-Hammer-Dent-Puller-Kit-with-2-3-Jaw-External-Internal-Oil-Seal-Bearing-Remover-16-Piece-39470/304271876?mtc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_1_HAND_TOOLS-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-HandTools_PLA&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_1_HAND_TOOLS-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-HandTools_PLA-71700000034127224-58700003933021546-92700049573927173&gclid=Cj0KCQjwzZj2BRDVARIsABs3l9IDIrMmSEtPY03IyeOo ADMM-HqrZWpTJ6QaUvd-c0eWYc-syxkJmWUaAtbfEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds)
BEAR-AvHistory
05-21-2020, 12:03 PM
I think there are 2 set screws in the upper pillow block bearing.
Will check again - light was not that great
I had the same problem. Take steering wheel off, measure from the bearing to the end of the shaft. Cut a piece of pipe (I used 3/4” pvc) about 3/4” longer. Slide it over the shaft and install the screw and washer that holds the steering wheel on and tighten. It should come right out. You are essentially making a puller for it. If it bottoms out and still won’t slide out, make the next longer pipe and keep going.
Will give it a shot sounds like a good solution. Have hit it with some penetration oil again today & am on my way out to get some silicone sealer for the oil pan corners & will pick up a piece of pipe.
Current status of rainy days & virus lock-down project. Shaft is the last thing to take out before I start putting it back together. New NITTO NT01 255 & 315X 17" tires on the car, brake pads changed HAWK HPS
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=128778&d=1590080506
TO DO - fresh oil, oil filter & coolant, new oil pan gasket windage tray, new flywheel, pressure plate, friction disk, throw-out bearing, pilot bearing, fresh transmission fluid, fresh rear end fluid, new dash panel & covering, new transmission covering, new console covering, plastic toggle switches replaced with metal ones, twin dual range USB ports added to transmission cover, new instruments, sensors & sensor wiring.
Some help on this question:
Have new Centerforce Billet Steel flywheel 700215, Centerforce DF148500 Dual Friction Clutch Pressure Plate and Disc Set, Tremec Bellhousing TCCM 1899, Ford cable pull throw-out fork XR33-7515-AA.
Looks like an adjustable pivot ball. What is the correct height & how is it measured?
BEAR-AvHistory
05-21-2020, 12:07 PM
I haven't tried this but it seems to me a slide hammer would work: Slide hammer (https://www.homedepot.com/p/SPEEDWAY-22-in-x-8-in-Slide-Hammer-Dent-Puller-Kit-with-2-3-Jaw-External-Internal-Oil-Seal-Bearing-Remover-16-Piece-39470/304271876?mtc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_1_HAND_TOOLS-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-HandTools_PLA&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_1_HAND_TOOLS-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-HandTools_PLA-71700000034127224-58700003933021546-92700049573927173&gclid=Cj0KCQjwzZj2BRDVARIsABs3l9IDIrMmSEtPY03IyeOo ADMM-HqrZWpTJ6QaUvd-c0eWYc-syxkJmWUaAtbfEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds)
Don't have a slide hammer. Simulated one with a large thick washer bolted onto the shaft. Gave it a few good whacks after a shot of penetration lube, no joy.
When brute force is not enough add more brute force is plan C. Did not know it anything else might be attached that was holding it back. Gonna try the pipe as a puller plan B. If that fails will whack the hell out of it. :)
boat737
05-21-2020, 12:22 PM
...When brute force is not enough add more brute force is plan C...
Now you're talking my language.
GTBradley
05-21-2020, 12:38 PM
It's surprising it isn't moving as it's supposed to move in the event of a crash. I'll stay up on this to see what the problem was - hopefully not corrosion.
Edit: I can add that I did go back and move my steering shaft in, as the wheel position was too close to me. After loosening the set screw the shaft did move in, but it took some judicious manipulation with a dead blow hammer (difference there is brute force with your tongue in your mouth:p). It's probably just a matter of leverage when moving it out.
swwebb
05-21-2020, 12:48 PM
I had to take out the steering shafts to do electric power steering. Couldn't pull it off manually. I couldn't find a slide hammer that would fit. Used Blaster PB Penetrant and still couldn't pull it off manually. Finally just took steering wheel off and put a fender washer on where the steering wheel was. Hit it with a good size hammer and the upper steering shaft came right off. Didn't use a lot of brute force, so some will be disappointed!! I was surprised how easily it came off with the fender washer when I couldn't budge it manually!!
BTW, there is only one set screw in my pillow block!
BEAR-AvHistory
05-21-2020, 12:57 PM
I had to take out the steering shafts to do electric power steering. Couldn't pull it off manually. I couldn't find a slide hammer that would fit. Used Blaster PB Penetrant and still couldn't pull it off manually. Finally just took steering wheel off and put a fender washer on where the steering wheel was. Hit it with a good size hammer and the upper steering shaft came right off. Didn't use a lot of brute force, so some will be disappointed!! I was surprised how easily it came off with the fender washer when I couldn't budge it manually!!
BTW, there is only one set screw in my pillow block!
Checked mine a few minutes ago - single set screw.
As mentioned below its supposed to collapse in a front end hit. Will take a good look at the mating surfaces when its out. Off to the Honey Do's for survival & the auto store for sealer & Home Depot for PVC pipe.
Norm B
05-21-2020, 06:24 PM
I just double checked mine and it has 2 set screws about 90 degrees offset. One is hard to see because it is more recessed as it engages the flat on the steering shaft.
BEAR-AvHistory
05-21-2020, 09:08 PM
I just double checked mine and it has 2 set screws about 90 degrees offset. One is hard to see because it is more recessed as it engages the flat on the steering shaft.
Hi Norm,
The set screw on my collar is the one that lock onto the flat. Expect they have more than one flavor.
Norm B
05-21-2020, 09:27 PM
I am sure that they have had multiple suppliers over the years and things change with them.
Try driving the shaft in to break it free then pull it out. May have to do that a couple of times.
Norm
D Stand
05-21-2020, 10:24 PM
Another thing to try is disconnect the lower shaft from the steering box. If there is a bind from the box to the firewall bearing this could be causing a bind in the upper shaft freely moving. I purchased my kit unfinished and the previous owner had the steering shaft installed. I had to use the pipe trick to move it either way (mine has 2 set screws) just to dial it in for the dash clearance. Once I got it moving I pulled it all the way out and there was some surface rust on it that I cleaned up with a scotch brite pad. Slides in and out really nice now. I wonder if I should put some axle grease on it before final assembly to prevent rust in the future. Anyone else have any advise?
Kevin - love the paint scheme! I still can’t decide for mine....
BEAR-AvHistory
05-21-2020, 11:57 PM
Another thing to try is disconnect the lower shaft from the steering box. If there is a bind from the box to the firewall bearing this could be causing a bind in the upper shaft freely moving. I purchased my kit unfinished and the previous owner had the steering shaft installed. I had to use the pipe trick to move it either way (mine has 2 set screws) just to dial it in for the dash clearance. Once I got it moving I pulled it all the way out and there was some surface rust on it that I cleaned up with a scotch brite pad. Slides in and out really nice now. I wonder if I should put some axle grease on it before final assembly to prevent rust in the future. Anyone else have any advise?
Kevin - love the paint scheme! I still can’t decide for mine....
Thanks for the kind words on the paint. On the grease, was thinking about anti seize compound when I put it back together. Have a wire wheel on a bench grinder. Will take any heavy deposits off with that the hit it with crocus cloth to polish it.
Norm, will try that if the pipes don't work. Got some PVC at Home Depot & will try that in the morning.
GoDadGo
05-22-2020, 07:10 AM
Kevin,
If you booger up your upper shaft let me know because I've got an extra one I can send you which includes the steering wheel mount as well.
Steve
rich grsc
05-22-2020, 07:19 AM
Just take the two bolts out that hold the upper bearing, that way you know it's not the bearing.
BEAR-AvHistory
05-22-2020, 09:54 AM
Just take the two bolts out that hold the upper bearing, that way you know it's not the bearing.
I already had done that before I discovered it was stuck. Just the opposite of installing it.