e-brake pulley config

[toadster]

to copy the folks who've mastered this mod
https://www.sunshinegaragemkiv.com/construction-steps/emergency-brake.html
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?9583-Carl-s-Mk-4-Roadster-Build&p=106019&viewfull=1#post106019
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=225428&viewfull=1#post225428

I'm pulling together the common list of parts:
https://i.imgur.com/h0JwBdw.pnghttps://i.imgur.com/qhMr3rq.png?1https://i.imgur.com/qhMr3rq.png?1https://i.imgur.com/vb5jpx5.png

1 x Alloy Steel Shoulder Screw 3/8" Shoulder Diameter, 2" Shoulder Length, 5/16"-18 Thread 91259A632 (https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/126/3274/)
2 x Pulley for Wire Rope for Horizontal Pull, with Bearing, for 1/4" Diameter, 1-3/4" OD 3434T24 (https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/126/1612)
1 x High-Strength Steel Nylon-Insert Locknut Black Oxide, 5/16"-18 Thread Size 97135A416 (https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/126/3390)


still struggling to find the Lokar brake clevis (Lok-S-8078) by itself...


other options to keep in mind? I believe many are 'extending' the lower arm to help the clevis clear the frame rail

[BradCraig]

I did the 2" shoulder bolt without the washers. Call Lokar, their response below:

"Not discontinued but no longer available through our dealers. You can contact us and we’ll be happy to help you with that. Retail price is $33.17"

Marty Waterstraut
Technical/Sales Representative
877-469-7440 x8925

[toadster]

I did the 2" shoulder bolt without the washers. Call Lokar, their response below:

"Not discontinued but no longer available through our dealers. You can contact us and we’ll be happy to help you with that. Retail price is $33.17"

Marty Waterstraut
Technical/Sales Representative
877-469-7440 x8925

Thanks Marty! I guess 2" would be enough as the pulleys aren't really doing much rotation and don't need the spacing..

I'll give Lokar a call! Thanks!

[GTBradley]

Well the Lokar C]clevis is now out. I tried to obtain it from Lokar and here is their final response regarding S-8078:

Bradley,

You’re welcome. Those small parts were previously available through our dealers. At the first of this year we stopped those sales. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Thank You


Chris M.
Technical Support Specialist
Lokar Performance Products, Inc.
2545 Quality Lane
Knoxville Tn. 37931
Toll Free: 1.877.469.7440, Ext. 8924
Email: chrism@lokar.com (chrism@lokar.com)
Web: www.lokar.com (http://www.lokar.com/)

[BradCraig]

Well the Lokar C]clevis is now out. I tried to obtain it from Lokar and here is their final response regarding S-8078:

Bradley,

You’re welcome. Those small parts were previously available through our dealers. At the first of this year we stopped those sales. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Thank You


Chris M.
Technical Support Specialist
Lokar Performance Products, Inc.
2545 Quality Lane
Knoxville Tn. 37931
Toll Free: 1.877.469.7440, Ext. 8924
Email: chrism@lokar.com (chrism@lokar.com)
Web: www.lokar.com (http://www.lokar.com/)

See my post above. They indicated the same, but also stated they will sell direct to you. Hopefully they haven't discontinued entirely

[D Stand]

I was able to find just the block that clamps down on the 2 cables at Speedway Motors. Lokar #S-8070 $16.99. Might get you closer to what you need.

[CDXXVII]

I did not care for the FFR brake handle so I opted for the stock mustang park brake handle along with the pulley idea to keep the cables off the frame. We tried the Lokar block clamp at first but the cable started to fray and we were not happy with the end result.

For our application we decided that cutting the cable to the proper length and having threaded ends swagged on made for the cleanest install. We used a local sail boat shop to install the ends and I think the end result is perfect. The block in the photo I made and allows for some adjustment. I also made the block to secure the pulley to the park brake assembly.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129562&d=1591408541

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129563&d=1591408573

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129564&d=1591408591

[Fman]

I did not care for the FFR brake handle so I opted for the stock mustang park brake handle along with the pulley idea to keep the cables off the frame. We tried the Lokar block clamp at first but the cable started to fray and we were not happy with the end result.

For our application we decided that cutting the cable to the proper length and having threaded ends swagged on made for the cleanest install. We used a local sail boat shop to install the ends and I think the end result is perfect. The block in the photo I made and allows for some adjustment. I also made the block to secure the pulley to the park brake assembly.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129562&d=1591408541

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129563&d=1591408573

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129564&d=1591408591

Would you mind posting some links where you bought all the components for this mod? What was the reason you went with the Mustang brake handle over the FFR?

[GWL]

I have just finished my emergency brake modifications and am happy with the results. I did not like the cables going under the chassis.

I've got a very early Mk4 that came with the Ford Emergency Brake handle standard. I am very happy with it but to buy it is very expensive, I believe over $200. The large diameter pulley on this unit sets the cable a little lower toward the bottom of the car. Just enough to make it work for what I did. I've seen the modifications of others with the pulleys set up mounted to the frame and was going to do this myself. However, when I started getting into it, I found a better way without the pulleys.

Note in this picture how I put everything together. I bought a longer 1/8” cable with a 3/8” barrel end to mount to the Ford emergency brake pulley. The supplied set up was just not going to work as it had too much in the way of the frame members. To the other end, I attached a Sta-Loc Eye – 1/8” which I could hook up to the Lokar hook up I’ve holding up with my hand. It used to be available by itself but now you can only get it together with cables.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50026533058_0f904b287f.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jdF4o3)IMG_8930 (https://flic.kr/p/2jdF4o3) by George Ligon (https://www.flickr.com/photos/161275344@N04/), on Flickr

On the other end of the cable, I added a 1/8” Sta-Loc Eye. It’s in the red circle
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50026533148_ae8fd8042b_w.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jdF4pA)IMG_8917_LI (https://flic.kr/p/2jdF4pA) by George Ligon (https://www.flickr.com/photos/161275344@N04/), on Flickr

This shot is from above looking down through the trans tunnel.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50027333112_6e4de3c966.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jdKad5)IMG_8919 (https://flic.kr/p/2jdKad5) by George Ligon (https://www.flickr.com/photos/161275344@N04/), on Flickr


This is link to the Sta-Loc site: https://www.stalok.com/product/sta-lok-eye-inch

I did have to cut a bracket out of the way that was just behind the Brake Handle which, at one time, was probably another way of setting up the emergency brakes.

George