Quickjack 5000

[Jdav]

I know several people have commented in various threads that they have and like their Quickjack. I am specifically looking at the Quickjack 5000 which is on sale at Costco right now for $999 and have a few questions:

Does it fit between the wheelbase (ie, can you slide it in from the sides)?
Can you use it on any other part of the car than the 4" tubes (for example, lifting further away from center to allow more room to work)?
Has anyone used this in conjunction with a 4 post lift to be able to lift the wheels off the 4-post platforms?

[boat737]

I initially bought the 7000SLX in order to use on all my cars and trucks. It did work on the FFR, barely. It was just a bit too long to fit squarely between the wheels, so one end had to go in first, slide back, then the other end (i.e. had to go under the car diagonally, then slide around to square it up.). It was also just a fraction of an inch to high to slide in under the front 4" tubes (my ride height is 3 7/8" front, and 4 1/4" rear.). If there was someone helping me (which never happens...) they could lift the front of the car a bit to get them to slide under, otherwise I would have to use the floor jack to give me the extra fraction to slide the QJ under. The 7000SLX is a bit heavy and cumbersome for my 66 year old body, but it all worked pretty good.

I ended up selling the 7000SLX and buying a 3500SLX instead. Much better for the FFR, but can't use it on the Trucks or heavy cars. They are lighter and easier to move around, fit between the wheels straight in, and go under the frame tubes without having to lift the car slightly. Since they are lighter, they are easier to move around and get under the car. They work very good.

I've only used them on the 4" tubes. There's really no place else on the structure to use them, at least not without designing and making some sort of fixture to use. They are not long enough to reach the rear axle (I have a 3 link), and anyplace farther forward and not have it nose heavy/unstable.

The pros are that they don't take up a lot of space, get the car up far enough for me to get under the car, get's all 4 wheels off the ground, and are VERY solid. I always worried about the jack stands I used to use (earthquakes in CA...) but not with the QuickJacks.
Cons are you still have to be on your back if your under the car, getting under the center car from the sides is very limited if not impossible (to the trans area), and unless you have a very narrow creeper it will not fit between the two units. Normally I just throw a towel down and slide in on my back when getting to the rear of the engine, transmission area. Front of the engine, rear end, or F or R suspension a creeper works.

Here's the dimension comparisons. https://www.quickjack.com/compare/

[jrcuz]

I have the QJ 5000 and agree with boat737. I don't remember who it was but I did see a roadster builder on one of the forums that had put his QJ's in from the side crossways so he could get under easier. They were I'm sure sticking out on both sides.
JR

[Ray]

You don't have to use the lift along the length of the car. You can also place it across the car from side to side. It's a bit more "tippy" but it can work.

Ray

[j.miller]

I use mine all the time for assy day on the bodies I paint. Yes it slips in from the side no prob. Best position I have fount is the front pad just behind the motor mount brackets. For working under the car...not so much. If I need to do that I lift the car with QJ and set it back down on jack stands. For storing I just stack it on a hand truck , coil the hoses and cords around the handle, set the hydraulics on top of the QJ and roll it to the side of the shop...dabat

[initiator]

I have the 5000 and it works great for my Mk 4, my CTS-V (not much else fits under this car), and the family minivan.

[1932]

Like mine on the 33, can work under or on top.

[Jdav]

Thanks everyone. I made my order last night!

[65 Cobra Dude]

Good choice. I’ve used my QJ on every car FFR makes and it works great. For the Roadster, I used 2 - 4 x 4’s with notches for the 4” tubes.

Henry

[flynntuna]

https://www.ezcarlift.com/index.html
Has anyone bought or used this the ez car lift?
Although it costs twice that of a quick jack, and you could buy a 4 post lift for the price.
It does have portability and made in America going for it.

[initiator]

One last tip on the QuickJack - the one year warranty goes fast so get any leaking parts replaced right away. I had a cut o-ring on an elbow fitting and one leaky quick-disconnect. Customer service was great, even sent me the QD on 'goodwill' because I was a couple of weeks out of warranty.

[Jkviper]

I have an EZcarlift, happy to answer any questions you have.

[flynntuna]

I have an EZcarligt, happy to answer any questions you have.

Ok thanks.
First, are you happy with it? Do you feel it's worth the extra $800 over a quick jack?
Is the build quality there? Do you think it will hold up for the long term? Or is built to minimum standards?
Would you think it would be safe if you used larger blocks to give it say 30" of lift?
Anything else you can think of would be appreciated .

[Jkviper]

I am very happy with it. It is quite a bit more expensive than the quick jack, but less so when I bought mine which was two years ago.The Quickjack was about $400 less.

It is very nicely made, not cheap at all and I think I will get years of service out of it.

A few things I like.

1)Simple and no hydraulics to worry about. Just need an 8amp power drill. I lifted my son’s Camaro with no issues.
2)gets the car up 26” vs something like 17” and I liked the extra height which makes working on the car easier.
3)Infintley adjustable height which has come in handy to level the engine on the mounts, body work, ride height etc.
4)Relatively light and Can be hung in a small space on the wall when not in use.

Good luck with your choice, you can’t go wrong with either product.

[AdamIsAdam]

I did the exact thing as others, I bought a 7000 then and it and bought a 5000. Much better for all my cars.

Working on tranny area is very tough. I can't jack sideways because I have a pole in my garage (but I'll check that again), but maybe I should reconsider a combination of Jack stands and maybe leaving one quick jack in place for safety and remove the other once up on stands so I can access tranny. Hmm.

[Jdav]

I'm happy with the purchase so far. Much easier and safer to get all 4 wheel off the ground than going side to side with jack and raising jack stands. I did lower it onto jack stands and pulled the quickjack to get easier access to the headers.

[TMartinLVNV]

I just purchased the QJ 5000SLX. I don't have a Costco membership. Most places have it for $1400+. Home Depot has it on sale for $1200 and free shipping. Score, on the way!

I am so sick and tired of having to pull out the jack and jack stands to put the car up in the air. These should help.

[Dewey McBride]

131290131291

This is the best way I've found to use the QJ 5000 from Costco. I built ramps that I store my car on with the Quick Jacks underneath. I made a "bridge" with 3 2x4's to span between the quick jacks. Very sturdy and no problems getting under the car. I can get to everything with this setup.

[timmil]

131290131291

This is the best way I've found to use the QJ 5000 from Costco. I built ramps that I store my car on with the Quick Jacks underneath. I made a "bridge" with 3 2x4's to span between the quick jacks. Very sturdy and no problems getting under the car. I can get to everything with this setup.

Dewey: Curious, what are the lengths on your bridge?

[Dewey McBride]

Dewey: Curious, what are the lengths on your bridge?

Hi Timmil,

They are 46 inches across. Gives me plenty of room under the car. Cobra Dude 65 gave me the idea to use the bridges. As a bonus you get an extra 3.5 inches of height. I needed to make the wooden ramps to fit them under. Now I don't have to move the Quick Jacks. They live under the Cobra.

[canuck1]

I'm considering something like this. The EZ car lift does appear to offer much better access and a little more height for considerably more money (not my car):

131497

I'm attracted to the simplicity.

https://www.ezcarlift.com/index.html

Sean

[initiator]

Hi Timmil,

They are 46 inches across. Gives me plenty of room under the car. Cobra Dude 65 gave me the idea to use the bridges. As a bonus you get an extra 3.5 inches of height. I needed to make the wooden ramps to fit them under. Now I don't have to move the Quick Jacks. They live under the Cobra.

I like this idea a lot. So you drive your car onto the ramps, slide the bridges under, and connect your hydraulic lines? Do you have to reach far under the car to connect your hydraulics? Seems like you could route the lines through a cutout in one ramp so you don't have to disconnect the pump from the lift, although the crossing hose would get in the way of a creeper.

[TMartinLVNV]

My Quickjack from Homedepot.com arrived yesterday. I put it all together today. It works really well. The lower lift blocks just barely fit underneath of the car. This really beats a jack and jack stands. It was a workout just to get the car into the air. I think that I will store it under the Roadster. It will be used for that car 90% of the time.

Unfortunately, my controller down button was broken out of the box. A replacement part is already on the way.

https://i413.photobucket.com/albums/pp213/tmartinlvnv/IMG_20200711_144129882_HDR.jpg (https://s413.photobucket.com/user/tmartinlvnv/media/IMG_20200711_144129882_HDR.jpg.html)

https://i413.photobucket.com/albums/pp213/tmartinlvnv/IMG_20200711_164109308.jpg (https://s413.photobucket.com/user/tmartinlvnv/media/IMG_20200711_164109308.jpg.html)

https://i413.photobucket.com/albums/pp213/tmartinlvnv/IMG_20200711_164123106.jpg (https://s413.photobucket.com/user/tmartinlvnv/media/IMG_20200711_164123106.jpg.html)

Man, I really need to scrub my garage floor :rolleyes:

[jrcuz]

A tip I learned is if you disconnect the hydraulic lines and they are difficult to reconnect just depress the down button at the same time you are connecting the lines and they will connect easily.
JR

[timmil]

I have a new starter to install and am curious, do the rails cause difficulty getting at the starter?

[TMartinLVNV]

A tip I learned is if you disconnect the hydraulic lines and they are difficult to reconnect just depress the down button at the same time you are connecting the lines and they will connect easily.
JR

Thanks. Mine are really stiff and require a lot of effort to lock and unlock. In fact, I had to use a pair of channel lock pliers to unlock them.

[TMartinLVNV]

I have a new starter to install and am curious, do the rails cause difficulty getting at the starter?

That would be difficult but not impossible. They block access from the side from abut the front frame crossbar back. You could crawl between the quickjacks from the front if you are really skinny.

Replacing the starter would be easier with the front end on jack stands or ramps. Or, you can do it the way Dewey describes it above.

[AdamIsAdam]

Before disconnecting your hydraulic lines you should hold the down button a few seconds to try to draw all the fluid out of the hoses. If fluid gets trapped in the hoses they become extremely difficult to reconnect next time.

This bridge idea in order to put the Quickchek in a wider position is interesting. I wonder how safe it is.

[RoadRacer]

I am specifically looking at the Quickjack 5000 which is on sale at Costco right now for $999

Just placed my order at Costco - still on sale but not as low. Now its $1,199. $200 off.

[initiator]

Just placed my order at Costco - still on sale but not as low. Now its $1,199. $200 off.

Looks like they're now including the wall hangars and pinchweld adapter blocks. That's about $120 in accessories that didn't come with the $999 version I bought.

[Dewey McBride]

I like this idea a lot. So you drive your car onto the ramps, slide the bridges under, and connect your hydraulic lines? Do you have to reach far under the car to connect your hydraulics? Seems like you could route the lines through a cutout in one ramp so you don't have to disconnect the pump from the lift, although the crossing hose would get in the way of a creeper.
I leave everything connected all the time. I just slide the bridges in and start to lift it up. Hydraulics and power is always connected. It's very stable and takes about 3 minutes to setup and lift.

[RoadRacer]

My car just fell off the quickjack.

Yeah, that wasn't fun. I went for the extra lift of stacking the blocks (expressly allowed in manual), and hadn't yet had the experience with these blocks that they're actually quite deformable with the weight of a car on them. I checked they were all lined up when they touched the chassis, looked great, and lifted to maximum height, then locked in. But as I went around the other side to check the locking bar was in place I literally watched the top block squish out sideways.. and then the whole car went crashing down.

So I'm sure it was my fault and something wasn't as perfectly lined up as I thought.. but that's the last time I'm stacking those rubber blocks.

[TMartinLVNV]

Wow, was there any damage? I read in the instructions that the blocks could be stacked as well. It sounded a little iffy to me too.

[TMartinLVNV]

Before disconnecting your hydraulic lines you should hold the down button a few seconds to try to draw all the fluid out of the hoses. If fluid gets trapped in the hoses they become extremely difficult to reconnect next time.

This bridge idea in order to put the Quickchek in a wider position is interesting. I wonder how safe it is.

Yep, you hit the nail on the head. I had not let out the line pressure before trying to disconnect.

[RoadRacer]

Wow, was there any damage? I read in the instructions that the blocks could be stacked as well. It sounded a little iffy to me too.

Luckily, no damage at all.

[timmil]

RoadRacer

That is scary, thank God you weren't injured. I thought about going the multiple block route with mine, but now know that I wont be trying it anytime soon. Curious, was the QJ damaged? How did it hold up?

Tim

[RoadRacer]

RoadRacer

That is scary, thank God you weren't injured. I thought about going the multiple block route with mine, but now know that I wont be trying it anytime soon. Curious, was the QJ damaged? How did it hold up?

Tim

Hey Tim, everything looks fine. Barely a scratch anywhere on chassis or QJ. When it fell off the block, it pushed the QJ inwards and over - the car skewed sideways a little but stayed on the rear end of the QJ on other side. In other words it was still held up by one of the four lifting points. It was quite tricky to fix but in the end all is good. One block for me! (one can't slide off, it stays in the tray)

[1932]

Thanks for posting! We all need to think about safety.

[initiator]

Really glad you weren't hurt, and that no damage was done. Maybe the manual didn't consider the possibility of lifting round tubes?

Even using single blocks, I always lift the jack until it touches the car, then go around to all four corners and make sure the blocks are all centered. Lift to full height, then go around pushing on the car to make sure it's stable before getting underneath.

[RoadRacer]

Really glad you weren't hurt, and that no damage was done. Maybe the manual didn't consider the possibility of lifting round tubes?

Even using single blocks, I always lift the jack until it touches the car, then go around to all four corners and make sure the blocks are all centered. Lift to full height, then go around pushing on the car to make sure it's stable before getting underneath.

This was on square tube hot rod chassis, fwiw. I'm trespassing in the roadster forum :D

[timmil]

Really glad you weren't hurt, and that no damage was done. Maybe the manual didn't consider the possibility of lifting round tubes?

Even using single blocks, I always lift the jack until it touches the car, then go around to all four corners and make sure the blocks are all centered. Lift to full height, then go around pushing on the car to make sure it's stable before getting underneath.

I do the same thing!

[Jdav]

I used it with stacked blocks to lift my truck and was not comfortable with it. I'm my case, I ordered the truck/SUV adaptors for that application.
On the roadster, I dont think you could get the stacked blocks in (unless its already up on ramps).

[Dewey McBride]

Before disconnecting your hydraulic lines you should hold the down button a few seconds to try to draw all the fluid out of the hoses. If fluid gets trapped in the hoses they become extremely difficult to reconnect next time.

This bridge idea in order to put the Quickchek in a wider position is interesting. I wonder how safe it is.

I think the bridge is much safer than without. The jacks seem too close to each other and the car did not seem very stable sideways. Now, its solid as a rock.

[CFranks]

Speaking of stability... I just got mine from Costco and setup this week. It’s a quality well made piece. My only question, is it supposed to be rock solid when you shake the car or is it supposed to sway slightly? Even locked on the lower lock point, when I shake the car it does sway slightly laterally side to side (maybe 0.5-1” sway max). The unit itself is swaying, not on the blocks. I don’t feel like it’s going to tip over or fall off but just checking if this is how everyone else’s is? It doesn’t feel rock rock solid like when I had it on stands.

[RoadRacer]

Speaking of stability... I just got mine from Costco and setup this week. It’s a quality well made piece. My only question, is it supposed to be rock solid when you shake the car or is it supposed to sway slightly? Even locked on the lower lock point, when I shake the car it does sway slightly laterally side to side (maybe 0.5-1” sway max). The unit itself is swaying, not on the blocks. I don’t feel like it’s going to tip over or fall off but just checking if this is how everyone else’s is? It doesn’t feel rock rock solid like when I had it on stands.

mine is brand new, and on the highest locking point it is rock-solid. No detectable sway. Haven't tried the lower point

[TMartinLVNV]

I put the lifting blocks on the far front and rear positions on the Quickjack. The front lifting block goes under the frame about 2" behind the front cross member. When lifted, the car is very stable.

[Rdone585]

Just like others, mine is very stable at the low or high lift points. I appreciate the info for the bridge technique. I'll be sure to remember it next time I need to work between the frames. I fit between them but just barely, and the creeper will not at all.

[nuhale]

I'll stick with floor jack and jack stands!

Good you we're injured!

[Dewey McBride]

135068
This is the most stable way to use the Quick Jacks. I felt the jacks were too close together using the main frame. Now they are both outside the main frame and I can easily get under my car.

[j.miller]

Soooooo, another little tid-bit. Obviously you always want your QJ all the way up on the locks. If not, put jackstands under it. When I put a body together on delivery day there are times I only partially lift the chassis. I have noticed (working on the car leaning on one side) that the car will lean side to side from fluid transfer between jack halves. At first I thought it was from to much drinking the night before but after I realized it was the hydraulics and that I didn't have to cut back on drinking I was a happy boy...da bat

[alexmak]

I'll stick with floor jack and jack stands!

Good you we're injured!
That’s quite an unfortunate typo :)

[RoadRacer]

Speaking of stability... I just got mine from Costco and setup this week. It’s a quality well made piece. My only question, is it supposed to be rock solid when you shake the car or is it supposed to sway slightly? Even locked on the lower lock point, when I shake the car it does sway slightly laterally side to side (maybe 0.5-1” sway max). The unit itself is swaying, not on the blocks. I don’t feel like it’s going to tip over or fall off but just checking if this is how everyone else’s is? It doesn’t feel rock rock solid like when I had it on stands.

I just realized why yours might be swaying side to side. I had moved mine around while go-karting, and when setting up again I put the quickjack lined up with the chassis rails. Well, on the hotrod the chassis rails are not parallel - the are closer at the front. I was experimenting, but this does NOT work!

When the quick jacks are not parallel, they don't sit right, and the sway side-to-side is quite scary.

So I made notes on mine in case someone else is setting them up. Here's how they should look (on the hotrod):

135632

At the rear, I aligned the block on the outer rail of the QJ, and lined up chassis with first line in..

135633

At the front I aligned the block with the inner rail of the QJ, and lined up chassis with 3rd line

135634

Once they are parallel, they are rock solid.

[DavidW]

135068
This is the most stable way to use the Quick Jacks. I felt the jacks were too close together using the main frame. Now they are both outside the main frame and I can easily get under my car.

I had one and sold it. I didn't like how the only way to get access was to crawl under from the front or back, and once under there minimal room between the jacks.....then you have to crawl out. I prefer jack stands....well really would like a lift but until I talk my wife into moving jack stands will have to do.