Door relief

[SnyderJD]

OK Door gap... the manual states 3/16" I have been using paint sticks and or cardboard to keep the shape of the door. When following the manual sandwiching the door skin between the frame and the striker trim piece. I am closer to 3/8" almost 1/2" How are people getting a better door gap on the rear of the door using this method? Or are people abandoning that method, attaching the latch directed to the door frame, and removing enough door skin material to pass over the striker allowing for a tighter door gap? as in Wayne's post, https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?15697-VCP-Door-mounting-Tricks

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[Ajzride]

I think autocorrect might have bitten you, I can't quite understand what you are asking.

[SnyderJD]

I think autocorrect might have bitten you, I can't quite understand what you are asking.

iPhone + Frustrated post trying to attach an image from onedrive :/ should be readable now

[redbudrr]

It is difficult to tell but your photo looks like the latch is sitting quite a way into the jamb gap. My latch frame is about 1/16" proud of the jamb. Maybe yours is thicker? I was able to get a 3/16 gap with mine.

[sgarrett]

Timely post. I just finished getting my passenger door aligned today. My gap is a little smaller than yours, but it definitely took patience and finesse. I spent many hours across two months figuring out how all of the adjustments impact the gap all around the door. Paint sticks or cardboard shims really didn't work for me. Lots of small adjustments seemed to be what finally let me nudge my way into a good fit. I can't tell you how many times I have loosened and tightened the 8 nuts and bolts holding that driver door in place. I started the passenger door today and just tightened and loosened for about 2 hours and voila, it fits.

On yours, I would loosen the hinge bolts a little and try to slide the door back a little at a time with a rubber mallet. But the first thing I would do is put that top down in place. I had my doors where I thought they were perfect and then had to essentially start over once I dropped the top down. I had to tweak the placement of the side sails and top to have enough room to even fit the door in at all regardless of gaps.

[SnyderJD]

And at the end of the night before I read your post. I dropped the top and began to curse as the too front and rear edges of the door rub on the top. Right now the the top is at its highest point. Which if I recall gave me problems with the hood and fenders.

[sgarrett]

Yep.....that's what I found too. But after much despair and frustration I remembered what Tony said in the live video stream. Just be patient. At the beginning there truly wasn't enough room for my passenger door and I thought the geometry was completely wrong. But after a few hours of adjusting EVERYTHING I got it lined up. My top is not at its highest. It is a little bit below halfway up. Yes, if it is too high the fenders won't fit. I have the driver's side fender fitting now so I believe I can get the passenger side at this height.

The thing I found that I needed to change was that side piece. If you have already riveted it then I would drill it out. I found I needed to get everything to sort of settle into place at the same time. Then you can lock it down. I also marked the range of adjustment I have for the striker, but I didn't attach it yet. I wanted to get the door all lined up first and then put in the striker. I figured as long as I ended up within its range of adjustment I could add it at the end.

When you beat this you will have such a great feeling of accomplishment! Remember, the parts on our cars are like snowflakes: no two are alike. So that makes them special and deserving of our attention (at least that's what I tell myself. Maybe I should start drinking heavily). Hang in there.

[redbudrr]

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iPhone + Frustrated post trying to attach an image from onedrive :/ should be readable nowI did have to cut back the door jamb for things to fit. Door gap is at 3/16". My striker is 1/4" thick rather than 1/8" as I remembered it. 75 now, so things don't stick for as long as they once did.

[Mechie3]

Mine never fit great. I got rid of the metal plate that was supposed to go on the outside of the door skin. Also had to cut the opening on the end of the door out for the latch as it dragged too. Just the material stackup was greater than the desired gap, meaning if everything fit line to line with no clearance, I'd have a gap.

[lance corsi]

I also omitted the outer metal plate. Also, to make the latch work properly, I made some (3/16”) longer striker loops. This allowed for a slightly larger door gap but better sleep at night.

[lance corsi]

If you look really closely, I think you may find that the dragging mentioned is from the striker loop not protruding far enough into the latch pocket. Usually riding on the outer most edge of latch housing.