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vtullomk4
05-03-2020, 06:30 PM
Have a few simple questions. Have not been able to contact FF support.

1) I have the Wilwood pedal box assembled and installed. The brake pedal hits the 3/4 cross member when I release the pedal. Is that the stop? I did adjust the switch so the pedal does barely hit the switch. Not sure if this is correct.

2) when attaching the Wilwood caliber bracket to the spindle, FF provides 2 class 10.9 bolts and a 60 ft lb torque spec. The lower one is fine, but the upper one will only take an open end wrench. No room for a socket. How do I torque it? I ordered some class 12 hex key bolts just in case.

I am mounting a Jamar brake reservoir in front of the driver footbox. I saw on the forum that the reservoir needs to be higher than the master cylinder. Not sure how to do that.

Thanks for the advice. I'll get around to a build thread when I have time. I have loads of pictures.

Vince

CDXXVII
05-03-2020, 06:45 PM
Brake Reservoirs

Here are a couple from my build. Location works great.

Hope this helps.

127683

127682

127684

vtullomk4
05-03-2020, 07:05 PM
Thanks. What did you use for heat sheild near the headers? Stick on with tape on edges? Looks great.

edwardb
05-03-2020, 09:34 PM
1. Absolutely do not use the 3/4-inch tube to stop the brake pedal. You need to adjust the master cylinder pushrods further into the clevises so that the pushrods stop against the internal stops in the master cylinders. You may have to cut some of the ends of the pushrods off to adjust in far enough. This is mentioned in the build manual. If the master cylinders aren't allowed to seat against the internal stops, there's a chance the internal valving won't work correctly and will cause other issues. Adjust the brake light switch after the pedal is properly located. The button on the switch should be pushed in when at rest. But the switch can't be used as a stop.

2. You will have several times in the build that a torque value is specified but there isn't a way to get a torque wrench onto the bolt or nut. You just need to get a feel for this. You have one that you can torque. Use that as a guide for how to set the other one. Being within range of the 60 ft lbs is fine. Mainly don't overdue it.

3. If you mount the reservoirs so the caps are roughly the same height as the top of the 3/4-inch tube, you'll be fine.

Not one of your questions, but in your follow-up about heat shielding. Don't know what engine or headers you're using. But the commonly used combinations all have air space clearance for the headers and don't need heat shielding. There's a reason that's not mentioned in the instructions. Very common to put insulation in the cockpit between the aluminum panels and the carpet. My experience with multiple builds is that gets the job done. Most importantly you need to make sure there's no air infiltration between the engine and the cockpit. That's what you'll feel more than anything else if not addressed.

vtullomk4
05-04-2020, 09:52 AM
Thanks for the very insightful and complete responses to my questions. I am amazed by the support and knowledge available on the forum. Invaluable.

Thanks again.

Vince