Headlight & tail light wiring again

[EZ$]

So, while I await the delivery of parts, I decided to address the lighting wiring by putting weatherpack connectors on the lights to connect to the harness. I'm looking to salvage the 5 pin connector for the headlights, since the first part is in place no sense wasting it. I was planning on de-pinning the turn signal wires, and put them into their own three wire connector, and plug the extra slots in the RF 5 wire plug. Good idea / bad idea, I don't know. I need input from the electrical gurus. If this would work, on the DS I would unpin the tan and green wires, and go back in the harness the find the splice for the black ground wire, and add a new black to run to the turn signal plug, correct? PS would be the tan and lt. blue wires for the turn signal, and same procedure with the black ground wire. Then it would be to match up the headlight wires in the other half of the five pin, brown low beam and red high beam in the DS along with the black ground. The PS would be the brown low beam and red high beam, and the black ground. Plug the other two slots to keep water out. And on the headlight pigtail, the white wire is for low beam and the red is the high beam with black being ground. If I've got this screwed up it wouldn't be the first electrical I misunderstood.
So now there's the tail lights. I'm using **********'s LED rectangular tail lights. I checked them out on a 12V power source, and I believe that the red wire is running lights, white is the brake light, and black w/pink stripe is the ground. This is where my real confusion comes in. The tail light pigtails have four positions. I somehow managed to get the PS on the DS and vice versa on the wiring harness. I'm assuming I need to swap them around or the turn signals will be reversed, correct? Anyhow, the PS plug on the harness has 2 blacks to one pin, 2 tans to one pin, and then a purple, and a white. The DS has a black, tan, purple, and yellow wire. How would I be wiring the four wire weatherpack with the three from the LED fixture to tie in to what's there?

I'm trying to get the weatherpack connectors in place so that I can temporarily connect the turn signals and tail light, so that I can leave the battery connected. Without the light fixtures the dash turn signal indicators stay lit even when the car is turned off, and I worry that the battery will drain, but I also want to keep the programming in the computer.

I know this was a long winded question, but I need to find out if I'm going to need to change more than I had figured. Thanks for any help.

[D Stand]

Rick,

There is no problem plugging the holes for the fronts. I personally would just buy 2 more 3 pin housings just to clean it up. For the rears, it does not seam like you have left and right cross crossed. Per my diagram the colors are in the right spot. For the tail lights, you tested brake, running, and ground. There is not a trigger for the turn signal? This is your fourth wire that needs to be hooked up. Do the lights have a wiring diagram with them?

Thanks Dale

[EZ$]

Dale, I had noticed when I was checking for the wires and wire colors that the PS & DS were on the wrong sides of the car when I laid out the harness. I corrected the wires and colors in my post, since I'm going to need to swap the wires side to side. I see no reason to eliminate the five pin plug, since it's already wired and in place, and FFR provides the other half of the piece in the kit. No one is ever going to see this part of the wiring. The tail lights are the rectangular style. I believe the turn signals and brake lights are operated on the same filament. Just don't know how to best deal with this since it's four wires into three. Lights did not come with a diagram. There is also the other issue that FFR provides a unit to wire in that deals with using LED lights. My MKIV kit is from 2012, so I did not get this part, but I need to know if I'll need it to make this work.
Thanks

[EZ$]

OK, so I figured why the PS tail light harness has what looked like two tans and two blacks coming into the plug. The tan and black continue on to the license plate light, so that mystery solved. Unfortunately, using the wiring diagram to solve that caused more confusion. In the wiring diagram, the front light wiring shows the colors completely opposite to what I posted in my OP. DS colors are noted as being on the PS, and vice versa. I had lifted the colors for the front light harness wires, and their matching fixture wire colors, from a thread that I had looked up when trying to research this, so now I'm confused as to which is correct.

[D Stand]

Rick - to criss cross the wires in the back it would just require flipping the turn signal wiring around at the switch. The brake and running lights are on both sides anyway. Sound like you definitely are missing a part for the tail lights. It probably has relays and diodes to straighten it all out. Good luck.

[EZ$]

Easier said than done with the RT turn signal switch. It'll be easier to take the harness leads in the back, and just move them from one side to the other.

On another note, I was thinking, (always a dangerous thing), why couldn't I graft a lead onto the Brake / Turn Signal wire in the LED fixture, and tie one lead into the brake signal, and the other into the turn signal, and then the running light and ground into their designated spot in the connector? Seems like it would get the power to the right part of the lamp when required.

Anyhow, I'm just grasping at straws here! Somebody save me from making a mess of this. Thanks

[R. Button]

Hopefully by now someone has mentioned that to convert the rear led 3 wire taillights to use the Ron Francis or any 4 wire tail light harness you need a converter. Typically this is what is used on trailers. I used the HOPKINS #48895 for LED lights. After I replaced the mechanical flashers with electronic flashers all is working great.

[EZ$]

Ralph,
Big Blocker, Doc, worked with me to work out the wiring to make this come together. He drew up a wiring diagram that included two double relays, and eliminated the brake light wire going to the back from the brake switch. No converter necessary. Everything works, and now the only thing I have to do is to reconnect the Russ Francis brake wire again so that I can use it to power the lights in my Frankeeski roll bar. I'm actually amazed that Doc didn't go crazy trying to get me through the wiring! The wiring, like many other parts of the build, is not my strong suit, but he's a good teacher.