Adding Charging & Jumper Posts

[Papa]

I should have done this project during the build, but such is life. I want to add remote batter posts that I can easily connect my battery maintainer to or jumper cables if I ever need to use them. Here is a list of items I've ordered:

Charging posts: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BZZA5Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cables (4 AWG): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F32MTBM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ferrules (4 AWG): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FLHW29H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ferrules (8 AWG): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I7X480E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Battery Post Clamps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DFJP27D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My real question is related to using the battery post clamps. I thought they would be a good option for connecting the two 4 AWG cables/post as well as my +/- wires for my EFI power. Does anyone have any experience using these; good or bad?

[Railroad]

I would make sure they will fit inside the outer edges of the battery case. This might be an issue with the rear mounted battery box. Second, the material is a zinc alloy. Most common battery terminals are lead or brass alloy. Zinc may be fine, someone with more knowledge of alloys might add to the subject. Otherwise they look good to me.

I like to dip the bare wire end in molten solder, before putting under a set screw clamp.

[EZ$]

Dave, I installed those posts when I put the battery cables in originally. I actually ran the battery cables from the battery through the remote posts, and then on the front of the car. Just needed a standard battery terminal. I haven't noticed any loss of battery power when cranking, but this is part of the electrical in the car, and we know this isn't my strong suit! Those terminals do look awesome. Railroad has some good questions that you'll need to address before using them.

[Papa]

Thanks guys. The size should work just fine in my battery box based on the measurements provided. My cable layout should also work. As for the zinc terminals, at least one source sounds good:


Zinc battery terminals are an environmentally friendly alternative to lead battery terminals. These types of battery terminals were designed as a result of environmental directives such as Proposition 65 and RoHS. Zinc battery terminals offer advantages over lead alloy type battery terminals. These advantages include increased electrical conductivity, increased corrosion resistance, and reduced lead removal costs.

I've never used the ferrules before, but they look like a cool way to prevent the wires from getting ripped apart by the set screw.


https://youtu.be/EH2qh4J8sps

[Big Blocker]

I don't see where you are going to locate the [remote] terminals. IF you place them somewhere outside the body, for ease of access, make sure they can be isolated from the battery until they are needed. You don't need exposed HOT terminals just hangin' out.

Doc

[Papa]

I don't see where you are going to locate the [remote] terminals. IF you place them somewhere outside the body, for ease of access, make sure they can be isolated from the battery until they are needed. You don't need exposed HOT terminals just hangin' out.

Doc

Doc,

I'm planning to run them in the vertical portion of the trunk aluminum where it steps up from the main area to the upper shelf. The front side of the posts have snap-on caps that will protect them from contact when not in use. The 3/8" posts will be under the car with the short cables running from them to the battery terminal. I'll coat the exposed bolts in grease to protect them from the elements. Are you recommending a battery cut-off switch for the (+) post between the battery and the post?

Dave

[Vegasjack]

Awhile back I too placed independent battery posts both Pos and Neg in the truck, exposed inside the trunk, but had rubber covers to protect them. It was really a good job and looked okay. then I realized that the back of those prongs, where the battery connected to them was close to a metal cross bar. Not close enough to be a problem unless I got rear ended and the rear was pushed in, even just a little, the positive could come in contact with the negative cross bar which wouldn't be good, especially directly above the fuel cell. In my case it was before the battery shut off. Even if it was passed through the shut off I would have removed it, since one has to be conscious to turn the shut off-off. I removed the post without question and will jump the car however if needed. Just my 2 bits.


I'm planning to run them in the vertical portion of the trunk aluminum where it steps up from the main area to the upper shelf. The front side of the posts have snap-on caps that will protect them from contact when not in use. The 3/8" posts will be under the car with the short cables running from them to the battery terminal. I'll coat the exposed bolts in grease to protect them from the elements. Are you recommending a battery cut-off switch for the (+) post between the battery and the post?

Dave[/QUOTE]

[Big Blocker]

Jack beat me to it . . . never hurts to over protect the battery terminals, better [over] safe than sorry. IF you are going to mount them on the vertical surface mentioned, make absolutely sure there is no way anything can come in contact with them. Adding a cut-off switch at the battery can't hurt and if made easily accessible, might let you sleep at night.

In lew of a cut-off switch, maybe a thick plastic [flexible] cover. My cut-off switch is mounted on the upright just below the center of the dash (my battery is fully accessible mounted in the DS rear footwell, don't need remote terminals). One of the terminals came awfully close to the 3/4" upright on the left that is support for the DS foobox. I made two overlapping pieces from some thin plastic (a milk carton) that isolates both terminals from anything that could drop down into that area, or allow contact from frame flex or engine movement, completely shrouding the posts.

I hate telling people what to do but will give advice because I want my fellow builders to be well informed when they make their own choices . . .

Doc

[Papa]

Jack beat me to it . . . never hurts to over protect the battery terminals, better [over] safe than sorry. IF you are going to mount them on the vertical surface mentioned, make absolutely sure there is no way anything can come in contact with them. Adding a cut-off switch at the battery can't hurt and if made easily accessible, might let you sleep at night.

In lew of a cut-off switch, maybe a thick plastic [flexible] cover. My cut-off switch is mounted on the upright just below the center of the dash (my battery is fully accessible mounted in the DS rear footwell, don't need remote terminals). One of the terminals came awfully close to the 3/4" upright on the left that is support for the DS foobox. I made two overlapping pieces from some thin plastic (a milk carton) that isolates both terminals from anything that could drop down into that area, or allow contact from frame flex or engine movement, completely shrouding the posts.

I hate telling people what to do but will give advice because I want my fellow builders to be well informed when they make their own choices . . .

Doc

Thanks, Doc and everyone else for the input. I'll look at the space where I'm thinking of installing these and see if it looks okay from the back side. If memory serves, that area is pretty open, but as mentioned, could deform dramatically in a rear impact. I could use these on the back side nuts:

https://www.amazon.com/Bleiou-Plastic-Cover-Screw-Protection/dp/B084YV55YZ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=plastic+nut+caps&qid=1587262577&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFVWExEOThXRjFBMkwmZ W5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAyMjA2MjkzNVk3MDVFVEc3WkVEJmVuY3J 5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwOTk1NjgyUUFDRDRSSDNWMzhRJndpZGdld E5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm9 0TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

I'm really just looking for a clean way to keep a battery maintainer on the car without having to open the battery compartment. I thought the remote posts would be a good way to do that and allow for jumper cables to be used if I ever need them also without opening the battery compartment.

I may just run the charger's ring terminals and quick connect someplace accessible and call it good.

Dave

[Chris @ Forma]

I know that a lot of people think I am a bit paranoid and I am, however, we always fuse at the battery. Littlefuse makes a product called Z-Case that we buy from Waytekwire.com.

https://www.waytekwire.com/item/45597/Littelfuse-ZCASE-3-Way-Bus-Bar-Stud

This provides protection if your primary feed from the battery should somehow get shorted. I had this occur back in the stone ages when I was in school. Battery fires, though rare are really ugly. Anyway, I am extras cautious when I put an open battery terminal anywhere when it has a heavy gauge battery connection and therefore fuse it at the battery as a battery short will generate about 14k watts of heat inside the battery through a 5' 4AWG wire. With this much heat production things go badly quickly.

Chris

[phileas_fogg]

...I may just run the charger's ring terminals and quick connect someplace accessible and call it good.

Dave

That's what I did, and my battery is up front! I used 3M's dual lock to secure the battery side pigtail to the front of the 4" tube.


John

[Derald Rice]

My battery is under the trunk floor, and I hard wired a fused battery tender extension directly onto the battery terminals and then the input for the extension tucks into the LR fender on the vertical aluminum bulkhead. When it is plugged in, the extension is about 6 inches outside of the trunk lid. In case of a jump start, 6 screws to remove the cover and reveal the battery terminals. Used a scrap piece of a mud flap to insulate the battery terminals from the access lid.

I also have the same allstar battery posts on a charging cart. The covers are really really tough to install and remove. I used a sanding drum on a dremel to get them to even function.

Derald.

[WIS89]

Dave-

I am a little late to this discussion, and I am not sure that this will help you or not. I actually did what you are considering. I mounted my terminals on the vertical portion of the trunk. I had a similar concern about the always hot situation regarding those terminals, even though they were covered. I ended up putting in an isolation switch that is actually keyed, so all that is required to activate the terminals, is to turn the key. Otherwise, they remain non powered until needed. I understand what some of the previous posters said regarding the back of the terminals being charged. I think this is a risk I am OK with. To maintain the battery, I hook up my trickle charger to these terminals, turn the key, and know my battery will stay maintained. Likewise, I could easily jump start the car through these terminals.

Additionally, I have used the battery post clamps you are looking at on three different vehicles, and have been pleased with their performance. I have not used those crimp ends, but wish I had known about them, because I think they would be useful. Please let us know how they turn out and how easy they are to use. I used typical lugs with shrink wrap which is OK, but doesn't help with the lines fraying, which appears to be addressed well with the ferrules that you are planning on using.

If you are interested in seeing what I did, I can send you a pic. It's not difficult at all, and I feel comfortable with its location and the set-up. I think you will be similarly pleased with what you are planning. Let me know if I can help!

Regards,

Steve

[D Stand]

Chris - what size fuse do you use?

[NAZ]

These terminals are popular with drag racers as many cars don't have an alternator and the batteries must be charged after each run. I agree with the need to locate the battery and high current cables where they are less likely to short in the event of a crash.

The battery terminals you selected are popular but not the only way to accomplish what you're after. A better looking method is to use industrial battery connectors. These connectors can be bolted to a part of the car where you have easy access and they are out of sight. You don't need a male & female, each connector will connect to another and be properly polarized. Unlike the terminals you selected, these connectors are insulated so they will not short and you can also get a dust cover to protect the contacts. I mounted mine under the body at the rear, out of sight to a casual observer but easy to access. The connectors come with two mounting holes that can be used to hard mount them or attach an optional handle.

I use these on my trailers that have winches and connect to my truck. My jumper cables use these connectors to connect to my truck (this is common on tow trucks). I use these on my tractor refueling tank. They are very handy for anything you need to connect a battery to and not worry about shorting.

You can get these from many sources but I get mine from McMaster-Carr: https://www.mcmaster.com/battery-connectors/north-american-style-battery-charging-cable-connectors-7/

[Avalanche325]

I am not a fan of remote battery terminals in the trunk. If you want to run a battery tender cable, I would do that.

How many times have you had to jump start your Cobra? Once for me during my build.

Jumper cables do not need to connect to the battery terminals. I have a + terminal post in my engine bay where my cable from the battery, starter, etc all connect. That is where I connected my + jumper cable. It does need to be on cable that can carry starter current.

[weendoggy]

... a + terminal post in my engine bay where my cable from the battery, starter, etc all connect. That is where I connected my + jumper cable. It does need to be on cable that can carry starter current.

Ex: BMW

[Papa]

Thank you all for the responses. My initial goal was to have a simple location to hook up a battery maintainer. The thought that using the large posts would serve two purposes (charging and jumping) is what steered me in that direction. After reading all the advice, what do you all think of the following approach:

1. Install ring terminals with a charger lead near the battery to facilitate regular charging
2. Install the positive jumper post on my firewall near my buss bar with a 4 AWG cable between the buss bar and the jumper post
3. Add a negative (ground) post under the hood or just use any grounded item for the negative jumper cable connector

Right now, my + battery cable runs directly to my starter and then a second 4 AWG cable runs from my starter to my buss bar. All my main power leads in the RF harness connect to the buss bar.

Thanks,
Dave

[Derald Rice]

I am using the same bus bar behind my dash as you have, my battery+ runs straight to the starter, and a cable that runs from the starter to feed the bar. There is also a fused #4 alternator cable that goes to that same bar. The alternator fuse is easily accessible under the hood. If I remove the cover on the fuse, I would have a remote connection to the battery+. Ground connection can be almost anywhere on the frame or engine.

Or, I would just remove the battery cover and connect to the terminals. Never had to jump start it.

[Avalanche325]

Or, I would just remove the battery cover and connect to the terminals.

Well, there's always that....LOL.

Papa,
Don't worry about a negative post under the hood. Anything bare metal attached to the chassis is negative.

[NAZ]

Only caution if you do decide to connect a jumper ground to the chassis, make sure what you clamp it on can carry the load. A starter can draw a lot of current, 250A or more. I'm also very careful what I run that much current through. From my pipe welding days I have seen flange fasteners fail from running 150A through them and having the connection arc in the minor diameter of the fastener. Not all bolted connections are designed to carry current -- most are painted surfaces clamped together and some have gaskets clamped between them. It's always better to have a dedicated grounding spot and these days, many OEMs do just that even when the batteries are easily accessed.

[Papa]

Okay - I'm dumping the whole jumper post thing. See what happens when you let an engineer try to design something? It quickly gets over-engineered to the point that the simple solution is overlooked. I'll evaluate the new terminal clamps and may still go with them as a way to keep things looking neat in the battery box, but will simply tie in the charging connector at the clamps.

Anyone need a set of jumper posts and inverter cables? I've got some brand new stuff I'll sell cheap! :o

Dave

[Papa]

Okay -- I just found these:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126816&d=1587434487

https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Electop-Weatherproof-Universal-Flush-Mountable/dp/B07WCMX24L/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=bulkhead+two+wire+connector&qid=1587434033&sr=8-1

I'll mount one of these in the same location I'd planned to mount the jumper posts and use a fused connection from the back side to the battery for connectivity.

[NAZ]

If that fits the Battery Tender plug that would be a clean looking installation for a charging port and inexpensive. Too bad the leads are so short -- I hate splices.

[Papa]

If that fits the Battery Tender plug that would be a clean looking installation for a charging port and inexpensive. Too bad the leads are so short -- I hate splices.

Here's the same thing with a 10' length.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QPJ4ZJB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

I'll also add a fuse:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018U454S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dave

[rsw81]

Here's the same thing with a 10' length.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QPJ4ZJB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

I'll also add a fuse:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018U454S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dave


This looks like a winning solution for battery tender, then having jump posts under the hood. I think I'll be doing the same!

[Papa]

With the 10' lead length, I'm now considering mounting the port in the lower shelf of the trunk near the rear of the body. It would be completely hidden from view unless you really looked for it and would be accessible even if you had a trunk full of other stuff.

[Avalanche325]

That looks like a winner.

[phileas_fogg]

Indeed it does, provided the Battery Tender connector fits. Please follow up with what you find.


John

[Papa]

Update: I ended up ordering the 10' version (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QPJ4ZJB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and received it a few days ago. The Deltran and Optima charger plugs most are used to seeing do fit into the part I purchased. I'm planning on installing it in the trunk of my car in the floor aluminum near the trunk latch. I'll post pictures and report back once I have it all connected and cleaned up.

[rsw81]

Update: I ended up ordering the 10' version (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QPJ4ZJB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and received it a few days ago. The Deltran and Optima charger plugs most are used to seeing do fit into the part I purchased. I'm planning on installing it in the trunk of my car in the floor aluminum near the trunk latch. I'll post pictures and report back once I have it all connected and cleaned up.

Excited to hear how it goes. I'm getting started on my trunk aluminum and hope to install this as well if all goes well. Please be as detailed as possible on wiring and any trouble you had.

[Bob Brandle]

Since last year I've purchased a CTEK 40-206 MXS 5.0-12 volt Battery Charger for my still in the build process Gen 3 Coupe with Coyote 5.0 with Odyssey PC925 battery, I recently discovered and purchased the CTEK 56-562 Indicator Panel (battery health with trickle charger connector). Recently on Amazon for $11.95.

I plan on flat mount installing this on one of the sheet metal panels of the "inside" of the Coupe's radiator outlet duct. This way, I'll be able to connect the trickle charger to the battery with either the Coupe's front hood closed or front hood open and without having to go into the cockpit. I'm planning on fixed door glass (for A/C), so cannot go thru the window or sliding glass panel if the window were the FFR Plexiglas window set up and don't want to have to have the door open for a trickle charger cable. Plus, I should be able to see the "health status" of the battery even before I get into the car, even with the black 56-562 stealthily installed in my black PC radiator ducting.

This Indicator Panel also incorporates the desired/needed fuse.

Here's what the CTEK 56-562 looks like;

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127432&d=1588134687

[Papa]

Bob,

That's a pretty slick setup, but it doesn't look like it will connect to my Optima charger's SAE plug.

Dave

[Papa]

I installed the charging port today. It's in the trunk floor near the latch bar. Pretty simple to do except for one little gotcha that made me have to do a bit of extra work. The polarity was reversed (port wired backwards). Thankfully, my charger identified the issue and I was able to correct is. When I tested the port, sure enough I was getting -0.55 on the multimeter with the red and black wires tested as indicated. Reversing the two proceed a 0.55 reading. So, after reversing the wiring, all was good.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127577&d=1588389172

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127578&d=1588389181

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127579&d=1588389190

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127580&d=1588389199

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=127581&d=1588389209

I used stainless hardware instead of the stuff that came with the port. I also swapped out the 30 amp fuse on the holder with a 7.5 amp fuse to match what Optima uses in its accessories.